Do you have a mammoth mint 8 or HLG scorpion Diablo X? Post here!

buyyouabeer

Well-Known Member
OP one thing I haven't seen mentioned here is the advantage of having three separate panels vs one big light. I run a 4x8 with 3x Timber lights with 3x 288 V2 HLG Quantums each and just recently replaced my Tasty COB bar with the 350 Diablo. This makes life so much easier to dial in your light height for different sized plants. I run all of them soft at 200W and could not imagine running them all at full power (330W and 350W).

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sfw1960

Well-Known Member
OP one thing I haven't seen mentioned here is the advantage of having three separate panels vs one big light. I run a 4x8 with 3x Timber lights with 3x 288 V2 HLG Quantums each and just recently replaced my Tasty COB bar with the 350 Diablo. This makes life so much easier to dial in your light height for different sized plants. I run all of them soft at 200W and could not imagine running them all at full power (330W and 350W).
I do like being able to get varying heights in the one 4*8 pictured.
Coverage is pretty good, but the option is there too.
:mrgreen:



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TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
Should work fine. I’m only at a little more than 500w.
Ok, I was considering running it at 80% for the first year. I try to keep my height around 20 inches as my plants don’t all stretch the same especially with 3 or four different clone strains on the table. I’m also considering adding a far red add on and maybe an II.r and u.v bars. But then I’m going to need 3 seperate timers. I.r 10 minutes on at first light and another 10 minutes before lights out and u.v on for maybe 2 hours only during last 2 weeks of bloom. The far red I figured 12/12 with the light,,or is that too much? Any recommendations on the I.r u.v or far red bars?
 

boostedhonda

Well-Known Member
Ok, I was considering running it at 80% for the first year. I try to keep my height around 20 inches as my plants don’t all stretch the same especially with 3 or four different clone strains on the table. I’m also considering adding a far red add on and maybe an II.r and u.v bars. But then I’m going to need 3 seperate timers. I.r 10 minutes on at first light and another 10 minutes before lights out and u.v on for maybe 2 hours only during last 2 weeks of bloom. The far red I figured 12/12 with the light,,or is that too much? Any recommendations on the I.r u.v or far red bars?
I think the mammoth has some far red in it already. I would add the uva/uvb bars from mammoth if anything. Don’t complicate things too much. Make sure your environment is on point and you are feeding enough. I’m getting 1100-1800 ppfd at my top colas. Feeding 3 ec to keep up with light intensity. Temps 83-86f. No co2
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Ok, I was considering running it at 80% for the first year. I try to keep my height around 20 inches as my plants don’t all stretch the same especially with 3 or four different clone strains on the table. I’m also considering adding a far red add on and maybe an II.r and u.v bars. But then I’m going to need 3 seperate timers. I.r 10 minutes on at first light and another 10 minutes before lights out and u.v on for maybe 2 hours only during last 2 weeks of bloom. The far red I figured 12/12 with the light,,or is that too much? Any recommendations on the I.r u.v or far red bars?
There is absolutely no benefit in running Far red at lights on, only at lights out, and the time should be calculated depending on output.
 

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
There is absolutely no benefit in running Far red at lights on, only at lights out, and the time should be calculated depending on output.
So I.r used during dark? I read it was 10 minutes on at lights on and 10 min before dark. If you’re using it do u see benefits? from What I was reading the u.v help increase flavor and increase chrystalization . I.r it says increase bud sites and helps plants to use the light more efficiently. Am I being misinformed?
 

igna

Well-Known Member
There is absolutely no benefit in running Far red at lights on, only at lights out, and the time should be calculated depending on output.

It is a very widespread myth. The use of far red 10 min. before the day/night photoperiod change has no influence. This is regulated by the circadian cycle of plants. There are many studies on that and they did not depend on distant reds to know when it was time for sunrise or sunset.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
So I.r used during dark? I read it was 10 minutes on at lights on and 10 min before dark. If you’re using it do u see benefits? from What I was reading the u.v help increase flavor and increase chrystalization . I.r it says increase bud sites and helps plants to use the light more efficiently. Am I being misinformed?
Maybe i should specify a bit; flashing far reds at lights out, not on during the entire dark cycle; you would see endless stretch.
End of day far red treatment is based around photosystem I and PSII; when PSII is dominating that means the plant starts to switch into sleep mode, or at least in theory.
Ive only ever seen this tried by growers online, never a proper scientific study. @igna are there proper studies about this? Hqve u got links?

And when tried by growers its usually been far red on for the entire day plus a few minutes at lights out; this has generally produced slightly faster flowering time but its hard to bone out whether its down to far red during lights on, or the flash of far red at dusk.

The point is, if you wanna do a "wake up" signaling to the plant you should use 660 rather than 730. 730 doesnt wake up plants, and its not really clear if it has a real effect at end of day but in general it ususally speeds up flower a bit.
 

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
Thanks for clearing that up! I guess the time is coming for me to decide w 4/20 approaching, I guess it will go to who has the best sale. After the light then I have time to research more on the hole u.v and I.r thing.
Both Hlg and mammoth have deep red in the lights however Hlg has more deep red which is why I was thinking of adding a far red add on to the mammoth if that’s what I go with. Any info is helpful and opinions also welcome here!
 

igna

Well-Known Member
@Rocket Soul ,
If you put the circadian cycle of plants into Google, you should get a lot of articles.


I am Spanish, so if I put it in Spanish I get many articles, I wouldn't know how to tell you in English.

But I leave you some links to those articles in which I learn about these studies.







--> The circadian clock is responsible for generating the oscillations of biological processes in coordination with the day and night cycle and the associated changes in light and temperature. The cell cycle, for its part, is responsible for the division and growth of cells. If the cell cycle does not function correctly, the effects on organisms are dramatic: the best known case is the development of cancer. Therefore, the cell cycle must be highly regulated to avoid possible malfunctions.



Scientists have shown for the first time in plants that the circadian clock controls the speed of the cell cycle



Now, a research team from the Agrigenomics Research Center (CRAG), led by CSIC researcher Paloma Mas, has demonstrated for the first time in plants that the circadian clock controls the speed of the cell cycle, and that in this way it regulates the cell growth and division in synchronization with the day and night cycles. “We have shown something that we have suspected for a long time”


---> Dr. Paloma Mas is head of the Molecular Mechanisms of Circadian Clock Function research group at the Agrigenomics Research Center (CRAG). She herself presents her work in this way:

The rotation around the Earth's axis causes the alternation of lights and shadows on our planet. This involves changes in environmental conditions of light and temperature, which have greatly influenced life on Earth. Our cells already have their own clock, capable of measuring the passage of time and telling us what we should do: the biological or circadian clock, which generates rhythms in a 24-hour period. This clock is present in all types of living organisms, even bacteria. The basic mechanism that generates this ability has been preserved.



Plants have to withstand any environmental condition, no matter how adverse it may be, since they cannot move and look for a more appropriate place to live. Throughout history, plants have developed mechanisms that allow them to anticipate and respond to environmental changes. Thus, plants, in a dark environment, continue to open and close at a certain rate over a 24-hour period.

We have an autonomous clock, but this does not mean that it works isolated from the environmental conditions that surround us. The clock is resynchronized every day. Hence the effects of Jet Lag. The watch follows the rhythm of the place of departure, but adapts/synchronizes with the environmental conditions of our point of arrival. The central oscillator generates positive and negative rhythms that are regulated and generate a rhythmicity that they transmit to the components of the output pathway.

In the case of plants, the clock is important in all stages of their life cycle: if we alter the functioning of their circadian clock we can alter their growth, delay germination, flowering, etc...

At the cellular level, the clock modulates these responses through the stomata, on the surface of the leaves, which control opening and closing. If this does not work well, the plant does not respond well to, for example, drought.


 
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Dave455

Well-Known Member
I think the mammoth has some far red in it already. I would add the uva/uvb bars from mammoth if anything. Don’t complicate things too much. Make sure your environment is on point and you are feeding enough. I’m getting 1100-1800 ppfd at my top colas. Feeding 3 ec to keep up with light intensity. Temps 83-86f. No co2
What area are you covering with the light ? All 45 square ft. at 11 watts/square ft ? You use 500 watts for 45 square ft.

our measurements of 1100-1800 at tops surely cannot include corners with just that light... Seems high
 

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
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I run two Diablo X's. I had to get another after how spectacularly my light performs. I had an entire table of plants that size because of monster cropping and her light pushed right on through. This is the second to last plant I killed.

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This is one of the four mains off Sherbinski's Acai Jelly

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This is one plant jarred OG Kush. Those are 1/2 gallon jars.

I'm very happy with my X

One more to show you how not monster cropped plants look LOL
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That was 5 minutes ago, Cannarado, White Papaya. I love that stuff. There is something very special about their spectrum. Even my clones love it!
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I'm rebuilding my grow room and so I pulled my cloning/seed tent apart and put these on the new 30 gallon veg res and turned on the Diablo at 2 ROFLMAO. My clone are 3 weeks in only KLN because I'm too busy to get to transplanting and they are happy as peach pie LOL

PS here's the roots on those clones! The foliage only tells you 1/2 the story. I really need to transplant these LOL
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There are tons of great lights out there and I'm sure the Mammoth is a good light but right now because of an issue with one of my HLGs they are currently custom fitting a board for me (under warranty). I'd pay them double for those X's (btw the light that had the issue was not the X it was my 250 Veg Pro) I'll share that story when it's all done in my Annie's Update journal so I don't just take over your thread. LOL

But I can not recommend HLG enough. If I can help you with the decision or you need to see any other pics holler. I'm usually around.
@curious2garden what is the back and green piece on the irrigation pic? Anti-siphon?
 
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