Septoria Resistant Strains

mandocat

Well-Known Member
looks like you can't get the work f2's right now, but salvisa and beshear is available. Any advantage to beshear over salvisa? Thanks for your input. ANyone selling salvisa pollen?
Beshear was a good producing plant for me, the pheno I had leaned tropical fruit where as Salvisa went in a cheese direction. Balanced hybrid effects much like Salvisa. I imagine there are more expressions within these plants than what I saw. This was Bashear last Sept.Bashear (4).jpg
 
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Beshear was a good producing plant for me, the pheno I had leaned tropical fruit where as Salvisa went in a cheese direction. Balanced hybrid effects much like Salvisa. I imagine there are more expressions within these plants than what I saw. This was Bashear last Sept.View attachment 5418099
Nice...looks like a 1.5 pd'r.....with some chicken scratching around the base.....what a pain, eh, I have the same problem....is that like 4 toppings by july 1 or so?

it does look like it has a little on her, but you are like at harvest in that pic and no septoria is on your flower leaves, key...... any veg spraying at all for that girl?..... as I said to my grow partner yesterday, "we may have to run a IPM spray program in veg, ugh!". Looking at your pics from last year, looks like the Salvisa was a little better than Beshear for Septoria resistance. Hey, in tough years, if I could get stuff to end flower with that much leafage, that be great.

after reviewing all my plants yesterday.... I am seeing septoria set in a little on the Tropicanna Poison, but still minimal. She has some other problem emerging with this tiny crab like bug on the underside of the leaf.... was in the clone cutting that didn;t take...... odd those little crabby things only went after the fast flowering strains in the clone closet (the tropicanna poison and the Gorilla cookies FF)......My big Gorilla cookies FF is struggling , but she's fully larfed and spread out now, so it's a knock on wood (hate that, my 1000 gallon spot has my most vulnerable genetics -- so I got a real big plant with real big problems).....I don;t do any synthetic feeding.... just compost teas and top dressing organics. The other 2 GCFF's are smaller in 50 gal pots, seem less problematic, and likely different pheno's than the big girl (different stalk, node, and leaf development)....

Candy store... holding up ok after a humid stretch, Made of Honor, hanging tough - we have a dry week coming which will make her healthy (they are turning late, 3 of them, so that's gonna put'r at Oct15 when a nice dress is finally put on, ugh)...... Pineapple Muffin, she's my star, have 3 going, all staying really clean with just a hint of septoria underside and inside on the 2 big ones. One got pushed over and split in heavy rain and wind a couple weeks ago... didn;t get to her until 12 hours later, strapped her back to together, thinking alright, this is a good test, every time I have had this sort of problem, the plant that has rested on the ground gets sick, starting in the area that rested on the ground...... not the case here with the Pineapple muffin...and I have an extra, late planted one in the vegetable garden and that girl is right next to some tomato plants that are now getting smacked hard with tomato septoria (a bad sign for neighboring plants), but hey, that girl is healthy as a horse..... but she aint that big so she doesn't hold moisture and make a microclimate inside .... I always find this.... smaller plants stay drier and host less disease. Problem with the Pineapple muffin is, she reads as a plant that should be done by Oct1 but she is just now showing preflower...... we'll see, at least she's healthy and well fortified for a battle in october. Note, pineapple muffin morphology and disease resistance seems fairly consistent across 3 different plants from 3 seeds....stable genetics from Humboldt?

We need 2 good weeks with zero rain.
 

mandocat

Well-Known Member
Nice...looks like a 1.5 pd'r.....with some chicken scratching around the base.....what a pain, eh, I have the same problem....is that like 4 toppings by july 1 or so?

it does look like it has a little on her, but you are like at harvest in that pic and no septoria is on your flower leaves, key...... any veg spraying at all for that girl?..... as I said to my grow partner yesterday, "we may have to run a IPM spray program in veg, ugh!". Looking at your pics from last year, looks like the Salvisa was a little better than Beshear for Septoria resistance. Hey, in tough years, if I could get stuff to end flower with that much leafage, that be great.

after reviewing all my plants yesterday.... I am seeing septoria set in a little on the Tropicanna Poison, but still minimal. She has some other problem emerging with this tiny crab like bug on the underside of the leaf.... was in the clone cutting that didn;t take...... odd those little crabby things only went after the fast flowering strains in the clone closet (the tropicanna poison and the Gorilla cookies FF)......My big Gorilla cookies FF is struggling , but she's fully larfed and spread out now, so it's a knock on wood (hate that, my 1000 gallon spot has my most vulnerable genetics -- so I got a real big plant with real big problems).....I don;t do any synthetic feeding.... just compost teas and top dressing organics. The other 2 GCFF's are smaller in 50 gal pots, seem less problematic, and likely different pheno's than the big girl (different stalk, node, and leaf development)....

Candy store... holding up ok after a humid stretch, Made of Honor, hanging tough - we have a dry week coming which will make her healthy (they are turning late, 3 of them, so that's gonna put'r at Oct15 when a nice dress is finally put on, ugh)...... Pineapple Muffin, she's my star, have 3 going, all staying really clean with just a hint of septoria underside and inside on the 2 big ones. One got pushed over and split in heavy rain and wind a couple weeks ago... didn;t get to her until 12 hours later, strapped her back to together, thinking alright, this is a good test, every time I have had this sort of problem, the plant that has rested on the ground gets sick, starting in the area that rested on the ground...... not the case here with the Pineapple muffin...and I have an extra, late planted one in the vegetable garden and that girl is right next to some tomato plants that are now getting smacked hard with tomato septoria (a bad sign for neighboring plants), but hey, that girl is healthy as a horse..... but she aint that big so she doesn't hold moisture and make a microclimate inside .... I always find this.... smaller plants stay drier and host less disease. Problem with the Pineapple muffin is, she reads as a plant that should be done by Oct1 but she is just now showing preflower...... we'll see, at least she's healthy and well fortified for a battle in october. Note, pineapple muffin morphology and disease resistance seems fairly consistent across 3 different plants from 3 seeds....stable genetics from Humboldt?

We need 2 good weeks with zero rain.
Beshear yielded 3 lbs , 2 oz, I never top my outdoor plants, nor do I feed the ones in the ground. I just put worm castings in the holes when I plant them. We have been working this garden area for almost 20 years. The wire around the base is to keep the armadillos from digging near the roots which they do when it gets dry. I think the larger plants deal with disease and pests better than small plants. About all I spray is some sulfur early in the summer as a preventative and Zerotol in flower for PM. If I lose a branch or some buds no big deal. Septoria is increasing in a few plants but overall Salvisa and The Work genetics are practically untouched.
 

mandocat

Well-Known Member
Nice...looks like a 1.5 pd'r.....with some chicken scratching around the base.....what a pain, eh, I have the same problem....is that like 4 toppings by july 1 or so?

it does look like it has a little on her, but you are like at harvest in that pic and no septoria is on your flower leaves, key...... any veg spraying at all for that girl?..... as I said to my grow partner yesterday, "we may have to run a IPM spray program in veg, ugh!". Looking at your pics from last year, looks like the Salvisa was a little better than Beshear for Septoria resistance. Hey, in tough years, if I could get stuff to end flower with that much leafage, that be great.

after reviewing all my plants yesterday.... I am seeing septoria set in a little on the Tropicanna Poison, but still minimal. She has some other problem emerging with this tiny crab like bug on the underside of the leaf.... was in the clone cutting that didn;t take...... odd those little crabby things only went after the fast flowering strains in the clone closet (the tropicanna poison and the Gorilla cookies FF)......My big Gorilla cookies FF is struggling , but she's fully larfed and spread out now, so it's a knock on wood (hate that, my 1000 gallon spot has my most vulnerable genetics -- so I got a real big plant with real big problems).....I don;t do any synthetic feeding.... just compost teas and top dressing organics. The other 2 GCFF's are smaller in 50 gal pots, seem less problematic, and likely different pheno's than the big girl (different stalk, node, and leaf development)....

Candy store... holding up ok after a humid stretch, Made of Honor, hanging tough - we have a dry week coming which will make her healthy (they are turning late, 3 of them, so that's gonna put'r at Oct15 when a nice dress is finally put on, ugh)...... Pineapple Muffin, she's my star, have 3 going, all staying really clean with just a hint of septoria underside and inside on the 2 big ones. One got pushed over and split in heavy rain and wind a couple weeks ago... didn;t get to her until 12 hours later, strapped her back to together, thinking alright, this is a good test, every time I have had this sort of problem, the plant that has rested on the ground gets sick, starting in the area that rested on the ground...... not the case here with the Pineapple muffin...and I have an extra, late planted one in the vegetable garden and that girl is right next to some tomato plants that are now getting smacked hard with tomato septoria (a bad sign for neighboring plants), but hey, that girl is healthy as a horse..... but she aint that big so she doesn't hold moisture and make a microclimate inside .... I always find this.... smaller plants stay drier and host less disease. Problem with the Pineapple muffin is, she reads as a plant that should be done by Oct1 but she is just now showing preflower...... we'll see, at least she's healthy and well fortified for a battle in october. Note, pineapple muffin morphology and disease resistance seems fairly consistent across 3 different plants from 3 seeds....stable genetics from Humboldt?

We need 2 good weeks with zero rain.
This was September, 2022, a drought year, no septoria. The plant on the right was one of my 3 The Work plants.

The Work 2022.jpg
 
oh shit.... they are 2+ pdr's.... super nice.... I had limited perspective on your other pics, not now though...............you wash that or press that out? If so, what percentages on the fresh frozen? Fresh frozen percentages directly correspond with press percentages, as a general rule, from my experience...... anyhow..... really great pic.... how and what do you feed?
 
ugh, dark star does this money order thing, not cc....had to cancel my order for f2 and sal....I think I''ll just do salvisa through beegen's..... I bet salvisa f2 are coming.... what you are getting when you buy these beans not labeled otherwise are true f1's, if I'm not mistaken.
 

mandocat

Well-Known Member
we were posting at the same time... have you tried to clone these plants?
I don't keep moms or clone, I just grow out the best genetics I can find from seed each year. There is no shortage of really nice genetics for sale these days, and I wish I could grow them all! A great place to start is to look at Emerald Cup winning strains over the last 20 years. Many are still available from the original breeders. That is about as short a path to finding fire as it gets!
 
Oh I been going crazy bringing inside garage to avoid as much as possible, thanks
I am not far from you as the bird flies....but boy, these storms these days can be horrible in one spot and 20 miles away they got sprinkled on.... next week is western maine's turn, probably........ we had bands whap through here, but nothing like what you got.

that's why I made this thread..... it's soggy out.... what will september bring?. I foresee the future being full of this kind of weather, and lots of these kinds of problems with plants...... you should see how foul and fungal my squash leaves went this week, cantaloupe next if it does not dry out (too bad too, I got a shit ton of these minnesota midgets coming along).... there's a lot of moisture in the air here on planet earth these days..... yeah the poles are moving and the core is spinning backwards.... but hey, just another day on a spinning rock in space.

I had pretty good vegetation this summer on some late start plants that I toppped 5 or so.... so I have table tops in the ground that are all spread, no moving them, staked, and larfed......quasi lollipopped, sea of greenish with b'donks moving skyward.... yeah, but the wrong weather, all for not..... topping a lot makes for vulnerabilities in the stalk split where you topped when things grow out, requiring some sort of support strategy...especially in the wet weather where it gets windy and things get soaked and heavy.... just some thoughts, cause spreading the plant out to minimize disease creates other problems and work....

good thing you can bring your girls in...this is always a strategy moving forward, if you can do it, but size and yield start to get compromised.... and at some point the garage humidity gets unbearable too, especially if the girls got wet beforehand and it doesn;t stop raining outside.... I imagine an untopped plant in a moveable pot is much easier to move than a topped plant?

parts of your state got just frickin' slammed yesterday as I see the images right now on the news! Hopefully you weren't in the middle of that. Power on!
 

Dboybudz

Well-Known Member
I am not far from you as the bird flies....but boy, these storms these days can be horrible in one spot and 20 miles away they got sprinkled on.... next week is western maine's turn, probably........ we had bands whap through here, but nothing like what you got.

that's why I made this thread..... it's soggy out.... what will september bring?. I foresee the future being full of this kind of weather, and lots of these kinds of problems with plants...... you should see how foul and fungal my squash leaves went this week, cantaloupe next if it does not dry out (too bad too, I got a shit ton of these minnesota midgets coming along).... there's a lot of moisture in the air here on planet earth these days..... yeah the poles are moving and the core is spinning backwards.... but hey, just another day on a spinning rock in space.

I had pretty good vegetation this summer on some late start plants that I toppped 5 or so.... so I have table tops in the ground that are all spread, no moving them, staked, and larfed......quasi lollipopped, sea of greenish with b'donks moving skyward.... yeah, but the wrong weather, all for not..... topping a lot makes for vulnerabilities in the stalk split where you topped when things grow out, requiring some sort of support strategy...especially in the wet weather where it gets windy and things get soaked and heavy.... just some thoughts, cause spreading the plant out to minimize disease creates other problems and work....

good thing you can bring your girls in...this is always a strategy moving forward, if you can do it, but size and yield start to get compromised.... and at some point the garage humidity gets unbearable too, especially if the girls got wet beforehand and it doesn;t stop raining outside.... I imagine an untopped plant in a moveable pot is much easier to move than a topped plant?

parts of your state got just frickin' slammed yesterday as I see the images right now on the news! Hopefully you weren't in the middle of that. Power on!
Oh I was, scrambled into carport with a leaky roof to add they still get dripped on but better than outside. Yea I got family up in Maine like 45 min from boarder of Canada. My guy I help has this plant it's from clone and put out like the rest in ground and it's a barely flowering but has some deficiency something he can't fix. Pic I have Is crap I'll have to have em give more. Also there's one weird giant like top in middle still growing with tiny pistols growing in it. He was wondering if should cut it out but I figured its just a big cola? It's around 6 ft,and leaves always look droopy even when watered. It's has a faint veins on leaf kinda magnesium deficiency or something can't tell in pic.image.jpg
 
I don't keep moms or clone, I just grow out the best genetics I can find from seed each year. There is no shortage of really nice genetics for sale these days, and I wish I could grow them all! A great place to start is to look at Emerald Cup winning strains over the last 20 years. Many are still available from the original breeders. That is about as short a path to finding fire as it gets!
I noticed over the years, the plants I have cloned often flower earlier than plants from seed. 7 days makes a huge difference in october.

The strategy to get early finish, septoria resistant genetics works best using clones, not from seed...... that's the idea I am working with. SO, I am going to get seeds started at the end of fall to have big mothers and lots of cuttings next early spring. Getting the seeds now is the issue, and why I am poking around for info about salvisa, beshear, and the work. I may wait and see if his f2s come out at the end of fall.

In the meantime I just bought the following....Superwreck (trainwreck) and So F'n Gassy, both Twenty20 Mendo..... the Supewreck is the 2024 drop from a 2000 plant pheno hunt in Michigan, and apparently is note worthy in it's Septoria resistance. I prefer more sativa plants in the garden, so that fits good too. Interestingly, my pineapple muffin has trainwreck genetics in it....is this why I have 3 muffin plants virtually septoria free right now with zero spraying? WHat's in the wreck?

So F'n Gassy reads as mold resistant and an early finisher.... has the snow g and bad girl genetics like the made of honors I have growing now, but folks reports more mold resistance and earlier finish.... I'm more excited about the Superwreck.......

I run an autoflower strategy too now, fearing September disasters..... works good but darn, makes a bunch of trim work in the summer..... folks would benefit from reading about the genetics they are buying with autos.... there's really good stuff out there and really bad stuff that reads as good. Just go with the guys who are known for good beans, and look for deals.


Anyhow........
 
Oh I was, scrambled into carport with a leaky roof to add they still get dripped on but better than outside. Yea I got family up in Maine like 45 min from boarder of Canada. My guy I help has this plant it's from clone and put out like the rest in ground and it's a barely flowering but has some deficiency something he can't fix. Pic I have Is crap I'll have to have em give more. Also there's one weird giant like top in middle still growing with tiny pistols growing in it. He was wondering if should cut it out but I figured its just a big cola? It's around 6 ft,and leaves always look droopy even when watered. It's has a faint veins on leaf kinda magnesium deficiency or something can't tell in pic.View attachment 5418675
this week will be better for you..... I compost tea feed right into late september, and this really helps keep leaves green and resistant to disease.... it's just areated, liquified leaf mold compost (with some ash, lime, and guano during flower), so it's not like feeding salts...... just building the soil biome as much as the plant..... I am a strictly soil grower using only organic amendments and compost teas.
 

mandocat

Well-Known Member
I noticed over the years, the plants I have cloned often flower earlier than plants from seed. 7 days makes a huge difference in october.

The strategy to get early finish, septoria resistant genetics works best using clones, not from seed...... that's the idea I am working with. SO, I am going to get seeds started at the end of fall to have big mothers and lots of cuttings next early spring. Getting the seeds now is the issue, and why I am poking around for info about salvisa, beshear, and the work. I may wait and see if his f2s come out at the end of fall.

In the meantime I just bought the following....Superwreck (trainwreck) and So F'n Gassy, both Twenty20 Mendo..... the Supewreck is the 2024 drop from a 2000 plant pheno hunt in Michigan, and apparently is note worthy in it's Septoria resistance. I prefer more sativa plants in the garden, so that fits good too. Interestingly, my pineapple muffin has trainwreck genetics in it....is this why I have 3 muffin plants virtually septoria free right now with zero spraying? WHat's in the wreck?

So F'n Gassy reads as mold resistant and an early finisher.... has the snow g and bad girl genetics like the made of honors I have growing now, but folks reports more mold resistance and earlier finish.... I'm more excited about the Superwreck.......

I run an autoflower strategy too now, fearing September disasters..... works good but darn, makes a bunch of trim work in the summer..... folks would benefit from reading about the genetics they are buying with autos.... there's really good stuff out there and really bad stuff that reads as good. Just go with the guys who are known for good beans, and look for deals.


Anyhow........
Clones are great once you find a resistant plant! I'm still trying to figure if other examples of Salvisa do as well as the one did last year. Fall is usually sunny and dry here, well into Oct., if not longer, so quicker finishing plants are not as essential as up north. I'm more about exploring genetics than producing much weight and I like seeing the results of my pollen chucks, so from seed is the way for me.
 
Clones are great once you find a resistant plant! I'm still trying to figure if other examples of Salvisa do as well as the one did last year. Fall is usually sunny and dry here, well into Oct., if not longer, so quicker finishing plants are not as essential as up north. I'm more about exploring genetics than producing much weight and I like seeing the results of my pollen chucks, so from seed is the way for me.
if you aren't in by oct 10 around here in maine, all is at risk..... just the way it is.... I think people are going to start breeding more for resistance to this pathogen........... give it 5 years.... someone needs to deep dive trainwreck genetics then spread her out again for breeding.... gosh, that sounds terrible
 
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