First Grow 2x2x4 Tent

[cat shit]

THanks hea

If the board/light isn't specified in the table, then you've got to eyeball it.

The XS 1500 number is from my testing so it's as accurate as I can get it. The light was warmed up for 30+ minutes and my Apogee was calibrated at the factory (but tests out to +1.4%). Same with the Growcraft flower light number.

0.017 is even higher than the Growcraft and is up in the heavy red category, maybe an HLG with a 730 bump.

The spectrum below is for the KS 3k from the website. There's the standard blue spike and a fair amount of orange but not much red. I'd go with 0.0145 or so.

Keep in mind — it's all "wrong". A lux meter is 5%±, throw in a non-specific conversion, and a light that's not new out of the box plus the fact that a 1" change in distance to the light source is 50µmol and…it's all "wrong".

Having said that, it's f'ing great that you're using a meter and getting your head around "more light" but a meter, lux or PAR, is a means of "adjusting fire". I will let you get your plant in the, say, 600µmol ballpark, for a plant in mid-veg.

After you get in the ballpark, you start the process of turning up the dimmer until your plants get too much light and, once they tell you that, drop the dimmer by a few % or raise the light 1" or 2".

There's no problem with giving plants a bit too much light - they'll "canoe" or "taco" or rotate the leaf vertically, like a Venetian blind. Once you see that, turn it down a bit and you'll be livin' on the edge with a very happy, very well fed plant.



View attachment 5429382


I take light readings in a grid format, left back, left center, left front, center back, etc. With nine sample points (for a plant in late veg or early flower) I can get a good idea of how even the canopy is and then, if I need to, use plant yo-yo's to get different parts of the plant closer to the light.

This canopy wasn't very even.
View attachment 5429383

Thanks heaps for the input

 

[dreadedbud]

Purple Lemonade
2 days after topping did some LST to keep her short. Lost a fan leave with too aggressive tucking





Cream Cookies
Just LST

 

[dreadedbud]

Both had 1,500ml of water with 1/3rd strength biobizz nutes

 

[dreadedbud]

Seems to have responded OK to training.

Not sure if my internodal distances are too tight making it hard to spread out.

Cream Cookies - LST



Purple Lemonade - Topped

 

[dreadedbud]

Any ideas on why my nodes are so close together.
I think it is good for keeping it short but gone have potentially more colas stuck in the centre.

Any advise on how I should train from where I am now?

 

[dreadedbud]

 

[cat shit]

Any ideas on why my nodes are so close together.
I think it is good for keeping it short but gone have potentially more colas stuck in the centre.

Any advise on how I should train from where I am now?

You need to keep adjusting your training as the plant grows it should start exploding with growth soon, here is a chem dog auto I started training at week 3 and constantly bend and tie down all the way through stretch. I adjust daily if required and at the end you should have heaps of bud sites. I have never topped an auto. Your plant has alot more growth to come. Best of luck

 

[dreadedbud]

You need to keep adjusting your training as the plant grows it should start exploding with growth soon, here is a chem dog auto I started training at week 3 and constantly bend and tie down all the way through stretch. I adjust daily if required and at the end you should have heaps of bud sites. I have never topped an auto. Your plant has alot more growth to come. Best of luck

OK, wasn't sure if she was going to stay this short and right.

How many weeks of growth would you usually expect from autos?
Girls will be on their own for a week in 3.5 weeks time. Hoping the main big growing will be done

 

[cat shit]

OK, wasn't sure if she was going to stay this short and right.

How many weeks of growth would you usually expect from autos?
Girls will be on their own for a week in 3.5 weeks time. Hoping the growing will be done

OK, wasn't sure if she was going to stay this short and right.

How many weeks of growth would you usually expect from autos?
Girls will be on their own for a week in 3.5 weeks time. Hoping the growing will be done

you
The first 4 to 7 weeks are where you'll get the most growth in height and width if you've done everything right. Even then they are unpredictable. that's where autos can be a pain in the ass any kind of stress can stunt or slow them down but that's why I love growing them. I'd say in 3.5 weeks the training will be done.

 

[dreadedbud]

you
The first 4 to 7 weeks are where you'll get the most growth in height and width if you've done everything right. Even then they are unpredictable. that's where autos can be a pain in the ass any kind of stress can stunt or slow them down but that's why I love growing them. I'd say in 3.5 weeks the training will be done.

Ok so, I need to keep trying them down to keep them flat and wait for the stretch!

Hopefully all done in the next couple of weeks and I can leave them in peace for a week

 

[dreadedbud]

Fed 1,800ml each with 1/3rd nutes again last night

 

[dreadedbud]

Purple Lemonade topped


Cream Cookies


No stretch and no sign of any pre flowers so far and both about 10cm tall

 

[dreadedbud]

Some of the leaves look like they have a few spots.

Put it down to small deficiency but added some Calmag at the last feed.

 

[dreadedbud]

How long can you mix Biobizz nutrients in advance?

 

[dreadedbud]

Away for a week in 3 weeks time so a little worried about when I will be leaving the girls.

A few questions if anyone can give their advise.

Very little sign of pre flowering yet, so when is it likely to start?
But more importantly when is flowering stretch likely to finish?

Also currently watering about 1.5l every second day with Biobizz nutes at 1/3rd strength.
When I am away I have a wifi pump dripper that I am hoping to be able to trigger remotely.

I will water before I leave and then manually trigger watering every couple of days from say a 10l container. Or is there a better way to do this?

And should I just put water in the container?
Or add the nutes as well?

 

[dreadedbud]

Girls this morning.

Starting to get thicker growth so using the garden stakes to LST and move fan leaves away from covering new growth.

Not sure whether I need to do some defoliation yet. Any tips.




And not sure if these are the first pistols

 

[Delps8]

Girls this morning.

Starting to get thicker growth so using the garden stakes to LST and move fan leaves away from covering new growth.

Not sure whether I need to do some defoliation yet. Any tips.

View attachment 5430527
View attachment 5430528

And not sure if these are the first pistols

View attachment 5430529

Any tips?- Yes, don't cut healthy leaves off a plant.

If a leaf is damaged or heavily "senesced" or if you can't air into the plant then remove the leaf. Other than that, I would never remove a leaf from the canopy.

I know that a lot of growers follow the practice of heavy defoliation with the idea that it benefits the plant somehow. There's nothing "in the research" about that practice and, when cannabis researchers are asked about pruning off leaves "to expose bud sites" or to improve yield, they give the answer that I've provided.

It does give some level of satisfaction to the grower but I can't think of how it improves the grow. As always, if someone has data on this, I'd love to see it.

The plant below was a mangy Gelao auto that was topped and LST'd. I did not remove any leaves from the canopy but I do remove leaves at the bottom of the plant that are thinner than a pencil. That size is appropriate because my autos end up being a little over 4' tall. The rationale for that is that those branches had immature buds and, since I only harvest flower, they were of no value to me.

Senescence is the process in which plants move nutrients from older leaves to new leaves. As leaves mature, some nutrients are used by the flowers so that they seeds have nutrients when they germinate. The leaves from which the nutrients are being drawn, will turn yellow and die off. When the leaves are heavy senesced, I'll remove them. Other than that, I'm not aware of any benefit to the plant to remove healthy leaves.

RIU has a great acronym in "LTFA" - it is the f alone. That's really good advice when it comes to thinking about removing leaves.

 

[FmSwayze]

Girls this morning.

Starting to get thicker growth so using the garden stakes to LST and move fan leaves away from covering new growth.

Not sure whether I need to do some defoliation yet. Any tips.

View attachment 5430527
View attachment 5430528

And not sure if these are the first pistols

View attachment 5430529

Yes cut it TF up! In the name of science do 1 plant! Leave the other alone, collect data for YOUR STYLE. Like homie said there is no data. That means no data either way good or bad. The most important part of cultivating is finding what works for you. My tip would be to experiment! Gain the knowledge. What results are you looking for? Set a goal and get there.

Do you have a calendar tablet for journals? Collect as much notes on every grow, individual plant and cultivar and continue setting the bar for your style. They look great by the way! Good work, keep it up!

 

[FmSwayze]

Any tips?- Yes, don't cut healthy leaves off a plant.

If a leaf is damaged or heavily "senesced" or if you can't air into the plant then remove the leaf. Other than that, I would never remove a leaf from the canopy.

I know that a lot of growers follow the practice of heavy defoliation with the idea that it benefits the plant somehow. There's nothing "in the research" about that practice and, when cannabis researchers are asked about pruning off leaves "to expose bud sites" or to improve yield, they give the answer that I've provided.

It does give some level of satisfaction to the grower but I can't think of how it improves the grow. As always, if someone has data on this, I'd love to see it.

The plant below was a mangy Gelao auto that was topped and LST'd. I did not remove any leaves from the canopy but I do remove leaves at the bottom of the plant that are thinner than a pencil. That size is appropriate because my autos end up being a little over 4' tall. The rationale for that is that those branches had immature buds and, since I only harvest flower, they were of no value to me.

Senescence is the process in which plants move nutrients from older leaves to new leaves. As leaves mature, some nutrients are used by the flowers so that they seeds have nutrients when they germinate. The leaves from which the nutrients are being drawn, will turn yellow and die off. When the leaves are heavy senesced, I'll remove them. Other than that, I'm not aware of any benefit to the plant to remove healthy leaves.

RIU has a great acronym in "LTFA" - it is the f alone. That's really good advice when it comes to thinking about removing leaves.


View attachment 5430677

This is your current grow?

 

[dreadedbud]

Any tips?- Yes, don't cut healthy leaves off a plant.

If a leaf is damaged or heavily "senesced" or if you can't air into the plant then remove the leaf. Other than that, I would never remove a leaf from the canopy.

I know that a lot of growers follow the practice of heavy defoliation with the idea that it benefits the plant somehow. There's nothing "in the research" about that practice and, when cannabis researchers are asked about pruning off leaves "to expose bud sites" or to improve yield, they give the answer that I've provided.

It does give some level of satisfaction to the grower but I can't think of how it improves the grow. As always, if someone has data on this, I'd love to see it.

The plant below was a mangy Gelao auto that was topped and LST'd. I did not remove any leaves from the canopy but I do remove leaves at the bottom of the plant that are thinner than a pencil. That size is appropriate because my autos end up being a little over 4' tall. The rationale for that is that those branches had immature buds and, since I only harvest flower, they were of no value to me.

Senescence is the process in which plants move nutrients from older leaves to new leaves. As leaves mature, some nutrients are used by the flowers so that they seeds have nutrients when they germinate. The leaves from which the nutrients are being drawn, will turn yellow and die off. When the leaves are heavy senesced, I'll remove them. Other than that, I'm not aware of any benefit to the plant to remove healthy leaves.

RIU has a great acronym in "LTFA" - it is the f alone. That's really good advice when it comes to thinking about removing leaves.


View attachment 5430677

Thanks for the advise.

I decided there wasn't much worth defoliating at the moment.

Tried to do a little more lead tucking.

Goal is still to keep them as short as possible, I don't mind if yield suffers a bit so long as they fit in the fit and I get some smokeable weed.


This is the two this evening.