Also I did not say that it was heat stress, in fact I said the opposite. If you would look at the cotyledons then you would notice that they are also brown.
The issue wth heat stress is irrelevant, it's not heat stress.
Cotyledons store nutrients for the seedling to use before it's created a root system - the cotyledons always go brown and shrivel and die once those nutrients have been used, even on healthy plants. So unfortunately you cannot point out browing Cotyledons as any proof of your 'deficiency' theory I'm afraid.
In fact more leaf matter on those leaves are brown than at the top.
This isn't true at all. The top leaves have the most brown edge burning than any of the leaves on that plant.
It doesn't seem to be nitrogen since as you have said it is a mobile element which would have most likely started at the bottom. The most likely culprit is a potassium def. Since the leaves are in fact browning with little yellowing beforehand. Nitrogen would have much more yellowing on all of the leaves.
What part of this statement I said previously did you not understand Kieahtoka?
"The most likely deficiencies at this stage of the plants life are the three main NPK elements and Magnesium, all of which are mobile elements"
Notice the part there that says ALL of which are mobile elements? Yes that means Potassium is a mobile element as well. Try again.
It's also HIGHLY unlikely that a plant of that age will have a K deficiency, as it's simply not using high quantities of K at that stage in it's life. Potassium deficiency always starts on the older leaves first as it translocates that nurtrient to the growing tips. Also Potassium deficiencies are a much more orange/yellow leaf colour than light pale yellow.
But it really doesn't matter because basically any fert with low levels of npk will work and shouldn't burn his plant.
And so now you're advocating giving his plant a low NPK ratio fertilsation at less than 14 days old? Decent quality compost watered correctly should contain sufficient nutrients for at least 3-4 weeks growth, if the plant has problems before then, then something else is causing it. If it was a ph problem, you'd have multiple nutrients deficient and a translocation of nutrients from older leaves to newer, not damaged newer leaves.
Your remedy on the other hand would in fact deprive the plant of one of it's basic necessities. and might even end up harming it more.
My remedy of repotting into a proper plant pot and a fresh set of soil and nutrients is going to harm the plant even more is it?
The problem here is a simple one. You simply don't have the experience or knowledge to understand the cause and effects here. All you can see is the 'effects' and are guessing at the cause, guessing incorrectly I might add, because you don't know.
I went through an almost identical discussion with Spittn4Cash not that long ago and his argument that time was that it was the time release fertilisers in the MG soil that was causing the problem. You this time are claiming it's a nutrient deficiency.
In my experience on this site, at least 50% of new grower problems are caused by not understanding how to water their plants correctly - this is just another example of that. You show your ignorance and inexperience (along with Videoman) by stating naively that the plant is not 'overwatered' because it's not wilting.
You don't seem to understand that overwatering comes in many forms, and the one you're referring to is the effect that usually happens after you've just watered your plants. This is caused by the sudden lack of oxygen in the root zone and the plant loses turgidity for a little while afterwards but then soon recovers back to it's original state as soon as oxygen in the root zone becomes available.
This persons plant is suffering from over-watering because it's been a slow build up of a little water at a time over a longer period, with no run off and poor drainage and poor draining soil. What happens is that the water builds up at the bottom of the pot over time and whilst the top surface may look dry (and prompt more watering) the water continues to build up at the bottom of the pot because it's simply not draining correctly. The roots sit in this waterlogged wet soil, rotting them, potentially locking out nutrients for uptake and starving the plants roots of oxygen. The plant is still getting some oxygen from higher up in the soil, but it's not enough to continue healthy growth and not enough to cause the plant to wilt.
This is precisely the reason, that new growers must learn how to water their plants correctly using the 'wet/dry' pot method, fully saturating with plenty of run off to push out old stale oxygen and plant wastes and pull in fresh supplies of oxygen from the surface, and repeat when the pot becomes light. Small amounts of water given frequently is probably the worst thing you can do to water your plant.
I'm not wasting any more of my time discussing this with someone who simply does not have the knowledge to understand what's going on. The original poster can accept whatever and whoever's advice he wants to, I couldn't care less, I've given my opinion and as far as I'm concerned it's the correct one.
You however, have still got a lot to learn, as very little of what you're saying here actually makes any sense. The plants nutrient deficient? Cause?
