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RollingJoints
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Damn im yet to get a big bong, I have a small bong and a shisha bong for now. Around here there expensive as hell. Thanks for the +REP bro. 
Low Budget Startup Grow
- Thread starter slipperyP
- Start date
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
Damn im yet to get a big bong, I have a small bong and a shisha bong for now. Around here there expensive as hell. Thanks for the +REP bro.
It seams like most growers on here are bong smokers...I think vaporizing is probabally healthier than taking bong hits but I am going to hitting as long as I can. I have smoke joints, blunts, etc....
My bong is too small also...I need to replace it, but it works great. I think something even worse the shitty bong water is a fucked up air leaking bong.
I haven't updated for a minute so here's some pics day 33 or 34...I don't know which day I took these. They seam to be coming along alright, I wasn't expecting great yeilds or the best results with my first start up grow. I know I got some room to make some improvements, but that will come. I was looking at this page with the critical mass plant...this is definately the way to grow with restrictive plant limits. These are some crazy indoor plants. Like 3.5 pounds for 2 plants.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/101347-critical-mass-tree-grow-x.html
I love SOG but I don't know if constant harvest of small plants can match these?
Mine are sort of shiny looking and very dark green compared to the plants that just came in from veg. I'm not sure if this a normal?
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slipperyP
Well-Known Member
Not much going on today just watching the grass grow.
I was at this guys and he is older and more experienced than I am at growing. At least he isn't going to listen to any advice that I give him.
Anyway I was over there looking at his garden and I feel so bad for those ladies.
They are being severely over watered and overfed. There are bugs, I hope they don't make there way here. He is insistint about using CFL's...Hopefully I can sway him into joining the HPS club.
He has a 400 watt MH but wants to use CFL's and a red light bulb...
I was adding some garden lime to his soil...I know it needs it, even though he waters everyday he wont water enough for me to get some run off. I bumped one of the plants that is at leas 10 days old from seed and it fell over.
I have a seedling that is showing shooting hairs everywhere...Anyone know if this is normal..It is the first pic.
I was at this guys and he is older and more experienced than I am at growing. At least he isn't going to listen to any advice that I give him.
Anyway I was over there looking at his garden and I feel so bad for those ladies.
They are being severely over watered and overfed. There are bugs, I hope they don't make there way here. He is insistint about using CFL's...Hopefully I can sway him into joining the HPS club.
He has a 400 watt MH but wants to use CFL's and a red light bulb...
I was adding some garden lime to his soil...I know it needs it, even though he waters everyday he wont water enough for me to get some run off. I bumped one of the plants that is at leas 10 days old from seed and it fell over.
I have a seedling that is showing shooting hairs everywhere...Anyone know if this is normal..It is the first pic.
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slipperyP
Well-Known Member
Here is an update....I think everything is good...I could use some a bit fatter buds. I am so happy that I put the other 4 plants in so I won't go smokeless.
Hopefully the first crop will make it to the second crop and so on.
The plants moving in to flower in 3 weeks will be vegged for a month more the the shrimps in flower now.
By the next crop after that I will be using my seedling female. Those should be vegged to good size before I need them. Hopefully then my yeild will be up.
I need to get a couple more lights, maybe on the first of the month. I think i'm gonna go with a 1000 watt to veg. With a 1 to 2 month veg...I know it will pay dividends to go with the bigger light.
I'm contmplating building a thousand from scratch. I don't know...I will still have to order a vented shade anyway...Only if i could build the light cheap would it be worth it?
Here is a couple pics
Hopefully the first crop will make it to the second crop and so on.
The plants moving in to flower in 3 weeks will be vegged for a month more the the shrimps in flower now.
By the next crop after that I will be using my seedling female. Those should be vegged to good size before I need them. Hopefully then my yeild will be up.
I need to get a couple more lights, maybe on the first of the month. I think i'm gonna go with a 1000 watt to veg. With a 1 to 2 month veg...I know it will pay dividends to go with the bigger light.
I'm contmplating building a thousand from scratch. I don't know...I will still have to order a vented shade anyway...Only if i could build the light cheap would it be worth it?
Here is a couple pics
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
Thanks for stopping by...Things seem fine so far...hopefully nothing unexpected hits.
I need to start a batch of veg tea soon I wil have to look back and see...The journal has been valuable in keeping things in order. The plants look hungry to me.
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
I don't know if any of you have smoke salvia (sp?) The shits a trip...I don't recommend it...I believe it is similar to huffing paint....Which I didn't know years ago when I tried it, fun times...
Anyway I have a friend that was hard up with no smoke...anyway he was sitting there watching some bullshit police show and cracked out a bong rip of salvia....if this shit isn't illeagal then weed certianly be...
He starts tripping and thought he was in the show and was dead and the police were talking to him...lol....he took off running until it wore off....I warned him...
Here are the veg plants
S4 Rapid growing comparitivly to the other seedlings and clones. It is very interesting as it looks like hairs are shooting out everywhere. I cant wait to flower this one.
The clones are under going some super cropping....I'm going to bring up 5 and 6 even tops in a nice canopy with these. These will be vegging about 3 to 4 weeks.
S1 This seedling came from the same bagseed as S4 but is very similar and different...different smell..the leaves umberlla on S1. The strains are very afgani...Im sure they came straight from afganistan. I FIMed him...I don't know if she likes it or not. It took awile to recover.
Anyway I have a friend that was hard up with no smoke...anyway he was sitting there watching some bullshit police show and cracked out a bong rip of salvia....if this shit isn't illeagal then weed certianly be...
He starts tripping and thought he was in the show and was dead and the police were talking to him...lol....he took off running until it wore off....I warned him...
Here are the veg plants
S4 Rapid growing comparitivly to the other seedlings and clones. It is very interesting as it looks like hairs are shooting out everywhere. I cant wait to flower this one.
The clones are under going some super cropping....I'm going to bring up 5 and 6 even tops in a nice canopy with these. These will be vegging about 3 to 4 weeks.
S1 This seedling came from the same bagseed as S4 but is very similar and different...different smell..the leaves umberlla on S1. The strains are very afgani...Im sure they came straight from afganistan. I FIMed him...I don't know if she likes it or not. It took awile to recover.
tilemaster
Well-Known Member
hey slip...wen u used those pest strips wuz it the hot shot brand?
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
Yep thats them...It took care of them in days.
Fucking spidermites...I always say spidermite blood makes the grass grow
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
Here was an interesting post on topping...It certainly worth looking into....FIM or Top...That is what it is down to...I will certainly super crop.
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/151706-uncle-bens-topping-technique-get-5.html
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
I did a plain watering with 6.5 ph water @ 11 PPM.
S1 6.1 PH 347 ppm
S4 6.5 266
C1 6.5 220
C2 6.3 355
C5 5.9 420
C8 5.9 429
S1 is finally comming out of the fim...I don't think she liked it much. I am going to top and super crop next time with this strain.
S4 I will be taking clones for this to get them vegging for the future. It has been a vigorus grower...Im excited to see it flower.
I started bending and topping the other plants to start forming an even canopy for budding.
S1 6.1 PH 347 ppm
S4 6.5 266
C1 6.5 220
C2 6.3 355
C5 5.9 420
C8 5.9 429
S1 is finally comming out of the fim...I don't think she liked it much. I am going to top and super crop next time with this strain.
S4 I will be taking clones for this to get them vegging for the future. It has been a vigorus grower...Im excited to see it flower.
I started bending and topping the other plants to start forming an even canopy for budding.
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
Somehow I must have not either added any or didn't add enough...That is the main prob with the lights comming on so late at night.
Sometimes Im fuct up on PK's by this late.
I checked my run-off and it was coming out below 5 from 6.5 rain water.
I added 4 TBS garden lime to each bucket....Hopefully this will add some ph balance. Shit i cant believe I didn't catch it....
Sometimes Im fuct up on PK's by this late.
I checked my run-off and it was coming out below 5 from 6.5 rain water.
I added 4 TBS garden lime to each bucket....Hopefully this will add some ph balance. Shit i cant believe I didn't catch it....
tilemaster
Well-Known Member
Lime, Lime, and More Lime
In a related article, many growers suggested the use of lime to raise the pH (low is acid, high is alkaline) for some ferns. Different growers suggested that Adiantums, Aspleniums, and even Pyrossias could benefit from added lime. But, it is imortant to know why lime is good and what lime is best. Improperly used, lime can actually inhibit plant growth.
The pH of a soil is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. The numbers reported from a soil test generally range from 5.0 to 8.5. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Those below 7.0 are acidic and those above 7.0 are alkaline. A pH of 6.5 is ideal for many plants; the range from pH 6.0 to 7.0 is good for vegetables. Below 5.5 and above 7.5, soil treatment or modification often is necessary.
Most soils contain appreciable amounts of acidic components (hydrogen H+ and aluminum Al+++) that can be toxic to plants. Lime neutralizes those acidic components, making it a great soil anti-acid. Furthermore, plants utilize applied fertilizers more efficiently on soils that are properly limed.
You will find reference to at least four kinds of lime in agriculture: crushed limestone [Calcium carbonate (CaCO3)], dolomitic lime [Calcium-magnesium carbonate (CaCO3--MgCO3)], burned or quick lime [Calcium oxide (CaO)], and slake or hydrated lime ]Calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)]. Of these, dolomitic lime appears to be the best additive to raise pH and promote growth.
This is because dolomitic lime includes manganese and because dolomite lime acts slowly and continuously, and hydrated lime acts almost instantly. Use hydrated lime instead of dolomite lime for faster results, but don't use too much; you can create toxicity problems, which won't arise with dolomite lime, by using too much hydrated lime. Always use fine dolomite lime, since coarser grades take years to have a substantial effect. Dolomite lime is available at most nurseries.
Do not over-lime. It's best to apply lime according when a soil test shows that the ph for your fern is too low. Excess lime is likely to result in iron chlorosis of plant. If plants appear chlorotic after a lime application, low manganesecan also be the problem. Applying lime raises the soil pH and reduces the availability of manganese. In such cases, manganese should be applied to the soil. Soils with adequate manganese levels should not show symptoms following lime application.
One last note. Gypsum cannot be used instead of lime. Gypsum, also known as landplaster, is calcium sulfate. It is an economical source of calcium and sulfate but cannot be used as a liming material because it does not have the capability to neutralize soil acidity. In fact, applying gypsum to an acid soil (pH less than 5.5) can have adverse effects on certain plants by displacing soil aluminum, which is toxic to plant roots. Gypsum is frequently applied to provide supplemental calcium. But, there is no substitute for lime in neutralizing soil acidity.
In a related article, many growers suggested the use of lime to raise the pH (low is acid, high is alkaline) for some ferns. Different growers suggested that Adiantums, Aspleniums, and even Pyrossias could benefit from added lime. But, it is imortant to know why lime is good and what lime is best. Improperly used, lime can actually inhibit plant growth.
The pH of a soil is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. The numbers reported from a soil test generally range from 5.0 to 8.5. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Those below 7.0 are acidic and those above 7.0 are alkaline. A pH of 6.5 is ideal for many plants; the range from pH 6.0 to 7.0 is good for vegetables. Below 5.5 and above 7.5, soil treatment or modification often is necessary.
Most soils contain appreciable amounts of acidic components (hydrogen H+ and aluminum Al+++) that can be toxic to plants. Lime neutralizes those acidic components, making it a great soil anti-acid. Furthermore, plants utilize applied fertilizers more efficiently on soils that are properly limed.
You will find reference to at least four kinds of lime in agriculture: crushed limestone [Calcium carbonate (CaCO3)], dolomitic lime [Calcium-magnesium carbonate (CaCO3--MgCO3)], burned or quick lime [Calcium oxide (CaO)], and slake or hydrated lime ]Calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)]. Of these, dolomitic lime appears to be the best additive to raise pH and promote growth.
This is because dolomitic lime includes manganese and because dolomite lime acts slowly and continuously, and hydrated lime acts almost instantly. Use hydrated lime instead of dolomite lime for faster results, but don't use too much; you can create toxicity problems, which won't arise with dolomite lime, by using too much hydrated lime. Always use fine dolomite lime, since coarser grades take years to have a substantial effect. Dolomite lime is available at most nurseries.
Do not over-lime. It's best to apply lime according when a soil test shows that the ph for your fern is too low. Excess lime is likely to result in iron chlorosis of plant. If plants appear chlorotic after a lime application, low manganesecan also be the problem. Applying lime raises the soil pH and reduces the availability of manganese. In such cases, manganese should be applied to the soil. Soils with adequate manganese levels should not show symptoms following lime application.
One last note. Gypsum cannot be used instead of lime. Gypsum, also known as landplaster, is calcium sulfate. It is an economical source of calcium and sulfate but cannot be used as a liming material because it does not have the capability to neutralize soil acidity. In fact, applying gypsum to an acid soil (pH less than 5.5) can have adverse effects on certain plants by displacing soil aluminum, which is toxic to plant roots. Gypsum is frequently applied to provide supplemental calcium. But, there is no substitute for lime in neutralizing soil acidity.
tilemaster
Well-Known Member
just make sure ur addn cal mag or something when ur tweakn with the lime...
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
I'll have to pick some up tomorrow...I have never used it...let me guess a calcium and magnisium suplement? I believe calcium is key in phosphorus uptake?
PhenRir
Member
ok reading this and other grow journals makes me want to get started growing my own sea of green. however i need some information before i even get started,lol.
the first question is how do i obtain a medical marijuana growing and or smoking license?
and for the second question is what are the optimal conditions for one plant? what i am lookin for is like the nute concentraion and the pH of the soil and water. also i need to know how much light is needed for one plant.
thank you in advance for the info, i cant get started untill i know this info.
the first question is how do i obtain a medical marijuana growing and or smoking license?
and for the second question is what are the optimal conditions for one plant? what i am lookin for is like the nute concentraion and the pH of the soil and water. also i need to know how much light is needed for one plant.
thank you in advance for the info, i cant get started untill i know this info.
slipperyP
Well-Known Member
1. To obtain a licence i different from state to state...not that diff...but there are differences. Go to you state website...like 13 or 15 states are legal now. The licence for growing and smoking in my state is the same.
2. If you are a caregiver in my state you are allowed 6 additional plants per person on you registry. (Just got the ability to add 6 more plants yesterday
3. I grew up learning SOG method, I am not convinced it is the best method for strict medical limits. If you can add a couple people to the registry then...It is a good option. I am using it to get myself a fast renewable supply of weed.
4. If cash wasn't an issue, i would definatly be using a 1000 watt Metal Halide for the veg room (making it bigger)...and 4 600 watt HPS for flowering. Then i could step up to about 36 flowering plants.
Hope some of this information is helpful...
slippery