simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
im indoors all the way.. cant grow outside... would love to have a green house.. but indoor hydro just seems to be ideal for me..
Leaf tips curling up and dying-pics
- Thread starter doc111
- Start date
doc111
Well-Known Member
I like gizmos and gadgetry so I'm sure I would love hydro.
Im having the same problem in Happy frog soil ......I don't understand why some people say check your soil ph runoff and some say don't...some say soil ph checkers are crap now you guys are saying to use soil probes....Happy frog soil Runoff is 4 or lower on the ph....No nutes No nothing just phed water and its giving me bottom leaves that get rust looking spots then the leave curls up and slowly dies...I tryed lime to raise the ph it works for some plants look better some not so good.....I have flushed these plants with gallons of water to get whatever out....and just for some wierd reason I have some autoflowering plants that are having no problem with this soil growing just fine...so is it just down to the plant that shows problems?
Im just don't get why some of my plants grow great and other ones are just having problems
Im just don't get why some of my plants grow great and other ones are just having problems
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
it can be a pain in the ass... but its worth it...
LUDACRIS
New Member
dont be frustrated at this grow(because you are having soil problems) shit happens to us all.
get a good few grows with soil before jumping in to hydro.
thats just like jumping from the flames in to the frying pan.
soil is far more forgiving and easier to fix if anything goes wrong.
hydro wont be as forgiving and just give you more problems than soil can ever give.
weed should be growing in soil not water.
just my opinion.
LUDA.
LUDACRIS
New Member
there is no advantage to going hydro other than slightly quicker vegging if you do it right.
no bigger yeilds than soil and not a quicker harvest.
just a pain in the ass.
LUDA.
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
veg growth is quicker for sure...
flowering seems to be quicker so far..
wont know about yield yet.. but from the looks of things its going to be my largest grow yet..
not so much a pain in the ass at all... couple minor things i had to work out... but has been extremely easy going so far...
flowering seems to be quicker so far..
wont know about yield yet.. but from the looks of things its going to be my largest grow yet..
not so much a pain in the ass at all... couple minor things i had to work out... but has been extremely easy going so far...
LUDACRIS
New Member
yes but the harvest(grow time)will be the same.
there is no evidence of hydro producing larger yeilds.
LUDA.
Stoney McFried
Well-Known Member
Actually, I have to disagree....it's a good idea to test it,because the higher the ppm,the harder the water.If you consistently water with water with a high ppm,you could cause a buildup of salts, especially if you also add nutes to that water.Basically, the lower the total dissolved solids(ppm),the easier it is for the plant to absorb nutrients.Water quality IS important.From the growfaq:
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering 1 teaspoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering 1 teaspoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Nah, it really just depends on where you are and the local conditions.I gathered some rainwater that was at 7.0, and 20ppm, I believe.WAY better than my tap water.However, a few days later,I gathered some rain water again...and the ph was under 4,with ppm in the 40's.I live near some farms and not terribly far from some factories,so I'm sure one or the other may have had something to do with it.That's why it's essential to test the water, no matter what kind you use,every time.
doc111
Well-Known Member
I have considered making a rain catch or even buying one, but we have seasonal droughts here so certain times of the year I would be shit outta luck with that. I just really need an r/o filter so I don't have to tote my jugs to the store and back home again. I used tapwater at my last place and never had problems with it. My new place though....I know the water can't be used because it gave me all kinds of problems with the first grow I did here until I switched to r/o water. Haven't had a problem since....that is until now.Actually, I have to disagree....it's a good idea to test it,because the higher the ppm,the harder the water.If you consistently water with water with a high ppm,you could cause a buildup of salts, especially if you also add nutes to that water.Basically, the lower the total dissolved solids(ppm),the easier it is for the plant to absorb nutrients.Water quality IS important.From the growfaq:
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering 1 teaspoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Nah, it really just depends on where you are and the local conditions.I gathered some rainwater that was at 7.0, and 20ppm, I believe.WAY better than my tap water.However, a few days later,I gathered some rain water again...and the ph was under 4,with ppm in the 40's.I live near some farms and not terribly far from some factories,so I'm sure one or the other may have had something to do with it.That's why it's essential to test the water, no matter what kind you use,every time.
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
Actually, I have to disagree....it's a good idea to test it,because the higher the ppm,the harder the water.If you consistently water with water with a high ppm,you could cause a buildup of salts, especially if you also add nutes to that water.Basically, the lower the total dissolved solids(ppm),the easier it is for the plant to absorb nutrients.Water quality IS important.From the growfaq:
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering 1 teaspoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Nah, it really just depends on where you are and the local conditions.I gathered some rainwater that was at 7.0, and 20ppm, I believe.WAY better than my tap water.However, a few days later,I gathered some rain water again...and the ph was under 4,with ppm in the 40's.I live near some farms and not terribly far from some factories,so I'm sure one or the other may have had something to do with it.That's why it's essential to test the water, no matter what kind you use,every time.
im glad to have someone agree with me..
rain water in areas with factories and/or large human population can be more acidic...
but out in the country away from people it tends to be pretty average ph wise..
checking ppm is important to avoided unwanted build up of "stuff" (since you never know whats actually in it), especially if you are using well water or unfiltered water... i know that the reasons are all explained in the above...
jberry
Well-Known Member
i think everyone here agrees on everything except one person that i will not name, lol
LUDACRIS
New Member
OK I transplanted into FFOF in 5 gallon pots today. We'll see what happens. I will update the thread.
good luck.
LUDAS looking over you mate.
doc111
Well-Known Member
Well, it's the day after transplanting and the girls are looking very happy and perky this morning. They were quite rootbound and had lots of white roots almost all the way up to the top of the pots. It's still a little early to tell if the deficiency has stopped. I will keep you guys posted. 
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
glad to hear they are a little better... if its just a small deficiency, which i am sure it was, the new soil should have what is needed to clear it up... hope things maintain for ya... keep us posted
Stoney McFried
Well-Known Member
Great, I'm glad it's better!
doc111
Well-Known Member
Thank you stoney. Two days after transplant and the problem seems to have stopped for now. I went ahead and took cuttings this morning. I normally wouldn't have done this so soon after having problems but I'm on a timeline here. The cuttings all look healthy and I tried cloning gel for the first time. I've always used rootone so we'll see how well it works. Cheers and I will continue to update.Great, I'm glad it's better!
greengrowthexpert
Active Member
pH is too high. Make sure its between 5-6 and not over 6. (5.4-5.6 is a good ratio to be exact)
doc111
Well-Known Member
This is a soil grow. I'm fairly sure that's too low. I have never grown with a pH that low although I'm sure some people do it and have decent results.