r there any other light bulbs that wont affect photo period beside a green light?

B

BeatenByTheWorld

Well-Known Member
a common misconception is that the plants are absorbing light so if it were green the plants leaves reflect it but you can stil have a light on at night.

THIS IS A LIE

Plants do NOT absorb light, they absorb the photons that light creates and they are created in different wavelengths.

While your plant will barely use the green light, it will still either stress and hermie your plant if u try to run it during the 12 hour dark period or just keep it in a SLOW vegging stage.


Black lights don't emit enough light to sustain your plant and can be poisoned by the UV rays it emits. Or it may cause it to stretch just because it senses the little bit of light and is trying to grow towards it, eventually it'll fall over.

never EVER EVER go below 400 nm on the blue side of the spectrum 420(ironically enough) is ideal which is violet black lights are rated at 360-390nm on the red side you don't wanna go over 700(ifrared) for the same reason. 670 is ideal on that side.
 
I

Illegal Smile

Guest
There are a lot of growers using green light and reporting no problems. How is that explained?
 
B

BeatenByTheWorld

Well-Known Member
the same way weed grows in nature under moonlight. It'll take forever if it does work and your almost gaurenteed to end up with seeds.
 
B

BeatenByTheWorld

Well-Known Member
furthermore the only way to get a pure green light is LED also a lighting system that doesn't emit enough lumens for more than a couple plants but is very good supplemental lighting.
 
Mr. Good

Mr. Good

Active Member
BeatenByTheWorld said:
furthermore the only way to get a pure green light is LED also a lighting system that doesn't emit enough lumens for more than a couple plants but is very good supplemental lighting.
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That pisses me off! I have seen thread after thread where supposed "experts" are giving the greenlight for the green light...so I have been using mine just like I learned...here!

What gives experts?bongsmilie
 
GypsyBush

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Just like our parents, experts make mistakes too...

NO LIGHT, PITCH BLACK, if you can see your hand after 3 minutes to adjust, it is TOO BRIGHT...:o
 
O

odinfolk

Guest
This is a pointless conversation, lol. For what reasons would one want to have a light on their plants when they are sleeping?
 
Mr. Good

Mr. Good

Active Member
odinfolk said:
This is a pointless conversation, lol. For what reasons would one want to have a light on their plants when they are sleeping?
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paranoid about how things are going in there without me...

Also I am scared about my pump in my aeroflo going out while I "CAN'T" be in there.

Does anyone here know what kind of alarm I can get if my pump stops working?
 
aknight3

aknight3

Moderator
gypsy is right here people, as your plant will not die if you use a green light once or a flashlight to check on them or show your buddies cause your all drunk, if left one 5 hrs of green lightbulb i would bet it is not good for them and they would begin to become affected, now ive never done a personal side by side so im not saying from experience, only common botany
 
skywalker39963

skywalker39963

Member
the reason ive for searching for this non effecting light is because i want to get around light proofing my closet partly because of lazyness and partly because of urgency i need to flower now otherwise i will be out of space i got 6 plants in a 2x3 area i guess i gotta firgure out my light profing now
 
GypsyBush

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Your light proofing should have been done before you ever sprouted a seed...:razz:




Here is a quote from Al B. Fuct...:clap:

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Mr. Ganja



Far, FAR too many noobs decide to grow weed, plant seeds and then go build the grow op. As a bit of an afterthought, these same noobs will then skim over a grow guide and have some coarse idea of how cannabis grows, perhaps have a vague idea of what a plant in veg and flower might be.

No.

Nononononono.

Please don't do this. It's like blowing half-dozen bonghits and then going out looking for the party.

There's lots of knowledgeable ppl around this board, but if you do try to grow without first acquiring basic cannabis plant knowledge, planning the scale of your op and building the physical op facilities- BEFORE you even THINK about dampening a seed, you make the catch-up work for your mentor/s MUCH harder.

If you're going to grow, you may as well grow as much as you can smoke. Micro grows are certainly possible but a 1-2 plant closet or cabinet grow just won't make much weed, even if you're using the highest performance lighting and watering system available.

Noobs should plan on 1/4-1/2 oz per plant. Experienced growers will get 3/4-1oz per plant in a SoG operation. If you smoke 1/4oz a week, noob growers would need to harvest 1-2 plants a week or 2-4 plants every 2 weeks in a 2-week rotation style SoG op. It's up to you to then decide how many plants you'll need to grow to suit your smoking needs. When you know how many plants you need to grow, plan on giving each plant an 8-12" circle to live in. SoG style growing means pruning off all branches on the lower 1/3 of the plant, leaving only the mainstem with a big fat top cola and some nice golfball sized buds on the mainstem itself. The lower branches produce only small, wispy buds and restrict airflow around the plant, crowding other plants, so you may as well not grow that part of the plant at all. For the SOG style of plant, an 8-12" circle is plenty. Plan on around 40-50 watts of HPS light per square foot of flowering space.

Minimum requirements for a functional grow op (one that will yield enough to be worth doing, i.e. at least an oz or two every cpl weeks) include a clonebox, a mother plant vegging area and a flowering area. You can keep as little as one mother, but more mothers is an insurance policy. I keep 6-8 mothers to provide 30 cuttings every 2 weeks. Divide up your available space accordingly and work out how you're going to keep light from the clone and mother areas from interrupting the 12 hour dark period of the flowering plants.

The next consideration is the location of the op. You need to be able to ventilate the space- and that does NOT mean leaving a closet door open part of the day. We're talking about intake and exhaust fans with appropriate ducting to avoid recycling 'used' air back into the op. If you can't install proper ventilation, you will have high air temps and high humidity- which will give you low yields and other problems such as powdery mildew which can simply kill the plants outright.

The space needs to have enough airflow to both remove heat from the lighting, moisture in the air put there by the plants and provide adequate CO2 for the plants. This means a ventilation system that will exchange the entire volume of the room air in about 3-5 mins max. Work out your room volume by multiplying room length x width x height and then go shopping for exhaust fans based on that figure. A 1000 cubic foot room needs a 200 CFM (cubic foot/min) exhaust fan. If you can't ventilate the space, you can't grow in it.

The floor needs either to be a durable surface like concrete or tile or must be protected against water leaks and spills. An old waterbed liner under your grow will do OK if there's no holes in it.

Grow room fires are usually caused by stupidly overloading electric circuits or using cheap power outlet strips on high-current devices. KNOW how many watts you're drawing and how many you can safely draw from each circuit. LEARN how to calculate watts from your line voltage and the amount of current (in Amps) your gear will use. (watts = volts * amps). Smart growers only use 80% of a circuit's capacity (i.e. 8 amps on a 10 amp ckt)

If you're going to do hydro, you MUST have a nutrient meter (measures nute strength in ppm, CF or EC) and a pH meter. You get what you pay for. Cheap meters don't last long and are often inaccurate. I use the "Truncheon" nute meter and Eutech brand pH meters, both which last many years with no worries.

Don't fear hydro. If you can follow some basic procedures, hydro is more reliable than potting soil and will ALWAYS yield more. For my hydro media, I use rockwool in pots. It's cheap, lightweight, sterile and easy to dispose of. Soil weighs 10x more than rockwool. If you're growing a number of plants, the amount of soil you need quickly becomes cumbersome.

You MUST have a good thermometer/hygrometer in your growspaces. Digital thermo/hygros with peak memories are very cheap these days- and you will KNOW what goes on in the room.

You don't need recirculating plumbing to do hydro- you can use a wick system, which just has a bit of rope leading from the bottom of your plant's pot into a tank of nute solution. The water & nutes wick up the rope & wet the media as the plant removes the water. However, recirculating systems like flood/drain (aka ebb/flow) and drip system can carry more dissolved oxygen to the plant's roots. Aero and NFT systems are better yet. I use a flood system because there's no drippers or sprayers to clog with dried nute salts.

A grow op must be designed to maintain certain environmental conditions (24-27 deg C @ 30-50% humidity), but it also conceals your op. It must not permit any light leakage and it must not attract attention with scent or noises. Scent control is best done with big blower fans and carbon filters or UV ionisers. Ionisers are expensive to buy but run for years with no maintenance. In addition to killing scents, they also kill mould spores in grow room air. Don't put your op in a place where you can be seen entering and leaving if you can avoid it. If neighbours can see you coming and going, they will notice you eventually. Know them as well as they know you and go in/out when they're not around or automate your op so you need not go in every day.

Do your homework before posting queries:

  • KNOW how the cannabis plant grows with regard to cuttings and how light cycle affects veg & flower modes.
  • KNOW the temperature and humidity figures you need to provide to the plant. You should run a freshly built op with no plants in it for a week or so and see how it does with noise, temps, etc.
  • KNOW that your proposed location meets the basic physical requirements for power, ventilation and temp control, security and accessibility.
  • BUY the basic equipment- especially good metering gear- and have it ready to go before you sprout anything.
  • Have a GOOD idea of how many plants you need to grow and build your space to suit. It's easier to overbuild now and grow a smaller number of plants than will fill the space than to try to expand an op later.
Yes- setting up a COMPETENT grow op (not some silly goofaround thing) requires a little investment, but it'll pay you back many, many times over. Avoid the temptation to buy "packages" from hydro shops- you will spend several times as much as you would if you take the time to learn what is needed and buy things to suit from other vendors. 95% of what you need for a grow op can be had at hardware and aquarium shops.

Now go to it!
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RandomLuck

RandomLuck

Well-Known Member
my question is why does it matter??

why not do all the work you need to do when the light is on ??

there is no reason to have a light on when they are sleeping.
 
skywalker39963

skywalker39963

Member
the reason why i have a light problems is because i didn't foresee the fact that my wife has to get up and piss in the middle of the night she might forget not turn on the bedroom light or the bathroom light that could possibly leak into the grow closet. im not a nub that doesn't know what hes doing im just a stoner that didnt factor in the wife i was hoping that some one could clue me in on new technology or technique so all the nub counseling is unnessesary .......anyway back to the matter@ hand im looking for a light source that doesnt affect photo period at this point im thinking candle light for the wife old school style, but i also heard from some one on here about black crushed walnut shells and s shaped tubing
 
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