Stop blaming "issues" on pH people! aka "ah cant take no mo'!

intensive

Well-Known Member
hey UB, thanks for being helpful even tho some here arent as grateful. i never thought about distilled water leaching cal/mg outa the soil. ive nevr had a problem with it also-guess i get lucky lol. at least now i know not to blame small problems on ph
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
hey UB, thanks for being helpful even tho some here arent as grateful. i never thought about distilled water leaching cal/mg outa the soil. ive nevr had a problem with it also-guess i get lucky lol. at least now i know not to blame small problems on ph
Here's the deal - some folks do things, add things they don't need. Some folks should do things, add things but don't. It's up to you to find out what works with YOUR program, your garden. No two are alike. You don't need to use distilled water or adjust your pH unless it is way out of the norm - extremely low or high pH (which is rare) and/or extremely high TDS like my well water - 690! For organic growers, nothing beats rain. It is about as pure as pure gets, has N in the form of nitrates, has microbes and is free!

Having said that, if you'll disregard the gimmicks and stick to basic common sense gardening principles you'll do fine. Botany basicilly hasn't changed in a million years.

Pot is a weed, grow it like one.

Good luck,
UB
 

Stgeneziz

Active Member
My plants are taking too long to flower, im thinking PH problem... what do you think the yield will be??
 

trichomeKid

Well-Known Member
Here's the deal - some folks do things, add things they don't need. Some folks should do things, add things but don't. It's up to you to find out what works with YOUR program, your garden. No two are alike. You don't need to use distilled water or adjust your pH unless it is way out of the norm - extremely low or high pH (which is rare) and/or extremely high TDS like my well water - 690! For organic growers, nothing beats rain. It is about as pure as pure gets, has N in the form of nitrates, has microbes and is free!

Having said that, if you'll disregard the gimmicks and stick to basic common sense gardening principles you'll do fine. Botany basicilly hasn't changed in a million years.

Pot is a weed, grow it like one.

Good luck,
UB
The best short-n-sweet advice i've seen in a while... bongsmiliebongsmilie

Thx UB
 

jsteezy1290

Well-Known Member
hey ub i also have well water and latley im noticing the plants getting some weird coloring and since i use no nutes i think its because of my hard water if i take a pic and post it can you help me out?
 

headband707

Active Member
I see it all the time, the first thing out of an in-experienced's grower's mouth is "have you checked the pH?" when it comes to a plant problem. If you don't know what the member's problem is, the forum favorite remedy - pH, is not going to help, nor make you look any smarter to the masses. pH adjusted water, especially using organic acids such as citric, will not have any long term corrective affect on most soils - soil is a powerful buffer.

Then it's the old "add epsom salts"....another forum paradigm that won't go away. Most folks only want to help and that's OK, but you can actually do more harm than good if the grower takes advice that is not correct.

pH - Cannabis is quite pH tolerant, it's a nutrient elemental uptake issue (not leaf cupping, wilt, lack of buds, etc.) and as long as the pH of the soil is not totally wacked out i.e. 5.0 or 8.6, you're OK. Hydro is different, a lower pH is usually recommended depending on foods used, type of medium, etc.

Get rid of the cheap moisture and pH meters - they do more harm than good.

Epsom Salts additions - Sorry folks, it's not a magic cure-all as you would like to believe. Since folks provide Mg in some form or fashion to their faves, Mg deficiencies are actually quite rare. An Mg deficiency will show up in the lower to mid level leaves as a chlorosis, a pale yellow or whitish-yellow background in the leaf with green veins. DO NOT OVER CORRECT with 2 tblsp./gallon if you are sure there is indeed a Mg deficiency. By over-correcting, you're gonna be doing another "aw shit" by inducing a deficiency of another element, say..... calcium. The concept is called nutrient antagonism. http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

Good luck,
UB
Actually I would have to disagree with you on the PH thing as I know the PH in the east is very high and can do a lot of harm if you mix it with the nute etc. Anything you do too much to the plant can and will effect it's growth and you will see problems. Your right that ppl without experience do jump on the wagons of ph but that is okay as it gets ppl thinking. Pictures are always helpful but it's usually what your putting in the water that is hurting the plant. Peace out Headband707bongsmilie
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
hey ub i also have well water and latley im noticing the plants getting some weird coloring and since i use no nutes i think its because of my hard water if i take a pic and post it can you help me out?
What do you mean you use no nutes? Are your plants receiving none of the 16 essential elements required for proper growth and health?

Actually I would have to disagree with you on the PH thing as I know the PH in the east is very high and can do a lot of harm if you mix it with the nute etc.
pH of soil and water decreases as you go east in the U.S. due to increasing rainfall. You must be sitting on a mound of caliche.

Anything you do too much to the plant can and will effect it's growth and you will see problems. Your right that ppl without experience do jump on the wagons of ph but that is okay as it gets ppl thinking.
Problem is, they're thinking wrong.

Enjoy your thoughts,
UB
 

headband707

Active Member
What do you mean you use no nutes? Are your plants receiving none of the 16 essential elements required for proper growth and health?



pH of soil and water decreases as you go east in the U.S. due to increasing rainfall. You must be sitting on a mound of caliche.



Problem is, they're thinking wrong.

Enjoy your thoughts,
UB
Not going to get into how I know but I do know that we had our plants tested years ago and the ph was 8 at the time we were doing hydoponics so that was much too high and the water needed to be adjusted as our plants were dying.peace out Headband707bongsmilie
 

monkz

Well-Known Member
check my ph during the first week of my grow THATS IT,
never had any issues with ph or anything else
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
What about these NUTRIENT SOUPS newbs make, adding Vegging Nutes (which is probably all they really need) plus they add some some Peroxide, and some Hygrozyme, and some Liquid Karma, and some Cal-Mag, and some Tiger Grow and some Epsom Salts and then they ask me about adding mollasses, cat urine and why are their plants rusty looking????
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
UB, lemme start out by saying that, as always, I highly respect your opinion and experience.

That being said, I also agree that too many plant problems are "blindly" blamed on pH problems, when in actuality they're caused by other factors.

However, I feel as though if you're going to make a thread such as this with a title such as this, you should let the reader(s) know that you're specifically referencing soil grows - not tracking your pH in hydro is way, way, way different then not tracking your pH in dirt.

Also, your title (to me, anyways) some what trivializes pH, which (I believe, and I'm sure you'll say "wrongly") is one of the two most important things I monitor (along with PPM, but that's because the rest of my grow is dialed in and grows itself).

I don't pH any of my outdoor veggies, and they're fine, to your point (grown in soil - soil's a buffer, I get that).

The same can not be said of my indoor "veggies" in DWC/E&F.

Anyways, thanks as always for your time, and happy gardening.
 

jordisgarden

Well-Known Member
ive been growing , and not just mj for a long time. i been growing mj on and off for 10 years now. i never ever ever had to do anything with ph. up or down. to be honest im glad i dont have to because it would just be one more thing to deal witth. when i first started getting serious about growing indoors, i thought that ph was the beggining and the end to everything. but then after a couple grows of never having a problem i forgot about it.
am i just lucky that the water from my tap is good to go?
i fill a couple 5 gals and let em sit for 2 days then i use it just make sure theres no chlorine........why is it that ive never had to deal with ph?
 

laserbrn

Well-Known Member
UB, lemme start out by saying that, as always, I highly respect your opinion and experience.

That being said, I also agree that too many plant problems are "blindly" blamed on pH problems, when in actuality they're caused by other factors.

However, I feel as though if you're going to make a thread such as this with a title such as this, you should let the reader(s) know that you're specifically referencing soil grows - not tracking your pH in hydro is way, way, way different then not tracking your pH in dirt.

Also, your title (to me, anyways) some what trivializes pH, which (I believe, and I'm sure you'll say "wrongly") is one of the two most important things I monitor (along with PPM, but that's because the rest of my grow is dialed in and grows itself).

I don't pH any of my outdoor veggies, and they're fine, to your point (grown in soil - soil's a buffer, I get that).

The same can not be said of my indoor "veggies" in DWC/E&F.

Anyways, thanks as always for your time, and happy gardening.
He is talking specifically about soil here. In E&F and DWC you don't get a buffer. If you check the ph of soil generally it will be in an acceptable range. Assuming you've done nothing to screw it all up.

I have found that on soil grows if you use a decent soil and proper nutrients, it's really, really hard to throw the ph out of whack. Even with ph 8.0 water it should be just fine for a long time. The only time that I've really experienced a PH "Problem" in soil is during loooooong grows. If you are growing trees it's fairly common to get excessive nutrient and salt buildup over the long period it takes to grow. This can cause lower ph, but generally the problem isn't really that you need to raise the ph by adding higher ph water, you need to leech the soil and flush. It's also a good sign your feeding too strong and need to back it down just a bit.

Basically the only time I ask "What is the ph of your runoff?" is when I need to eliminate this as a problem. The only time I suspect it might be is when someone is using too many products the hydro store guy sold him....ie (I'm using FF Bloom Big, Tiger Bloom, Cha Ching, Sugar Daddy (or whatever other bullshit is out there) and they are just whamming there plants to death with all this crap.

I ask the question about the runoff because if it IS out of the acceptable range, something is grossly wrong. Raising the ph by adding higher ph water is only going to raise the ph of the runoff. It ain't gonna solve the problem.
 

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you and I both get that he's talking specifically about soil, but I'm not sure that all do - that's why I "suggested" he make the distinction.

"However, I feel as though if you're going to make a thread such as this with a title such as this, you should let the reader(s) know that you're specifically referencing soil grows - not tracking your pH in hydro is way, way, way different then not tracking your pH in dirt."
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
No distinction needed. Too many folks are placing blame for their failures on pH. Soil or hydro is immaterial.
 

jsteezy1290

Well-Known Member
no everytime i used nutes i burned them , even tho i was using quarter strengths, turns out when i transplanted with new soil , the soil had a good amount of nutes already in it so i was just over doing it according to the dude at the local hydro shop
 
Top