Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Just because -Uncle ben love your work and your sauces rock. i sense you know your shit.could you tell me why my plants leaves look like this(200w CLF) thanks in advance
Just because -Uncle ben love your work and your sauces rock. i sense you know your shit.could you tell me why my plants leaves look like this(200w CLF) thanks in advance
you need to PH.Uncle ben love your work and your sauces rock. i sense you know your shit.could you tell me why my plants leaves look like this(200w CLF) thanks in advance
Here's the deal - some folks do things, add things they don't need. Some folks should do things, add things but don't. It's up to you to find out what works with YOUR program, your garden. No two are alike. You don't need to use distilled water or adjust your pH unless it is way out of the norm - extremely low or high pH (which is rare) and/or extremely high TDS like my well water - 690! For organic growers, nothing beats rain. It is about as pure as pure gets, has N in the form of nitrates, has microbes and is free!hey UB, thanks for being helpful even tho some here arent as grateful. i never thought about distilled water leaching cal/mg outa the soil. ive nevr had a problem with it also-guess i get lucky lol. at least now i know not to blame small problems on ph
The best short-n-sweet advice i've seen in a while...Here's the deal - some folks do things, add things they don't need. Some folks should do things, add things but don't. It's up to you to find out what works with YOUR program, your garden. No two are alike. You don't need to use distilled water or adjust your pH unless it is way out of the norm - extremely low or high pH (which is rare) and/or extremely high TDS like my well water - 690! For organic growers, nothing beats rain. It is about as pure as pure gets, has N in the form of nitrates, has microbes and is free!
Having said that, if you'll disregard the gimmicks and stick to basic common sense gardening principles you'll do fine. Botany basicilly hasn't changed in a million years.
Pot is a weed, grow it like one.
Good luck,
UB
Actually I would have to disagree with you on the PH thing as I know the PH in the east is very high and can do a lot of harm if you mix it with the nute etc. Anything you do too much to the plant can and will effect it's growth and you will see problems. Your right that ppl without experience do jump on the wagons of ph but that is okay as it gets ppl thinking. Pictures are always helpful but it's usually what your putting in the water that is hurting the plant. Peace out Headband707I see it all the time, the first thing out of an in-experienced's grower's mouth is "have you checked the pH?" when it comes to a plant problem. If you don't know what the member's problem is, the forum favorite remedy - pH, is not going to help, nor make you look any smarter to the masses. pH adjusted water, especially using organic acids such as citric, will not have any long term corrective affect on most soils - soil is a powerful buffer.
Then it's the old "add epsom salts"....another forum paradigm that won't go away. Most folks only want to help and that's OK, but you can actually do more harm than good if the grower takes advice that is not correct.
pH - Cannabis is quite pH tolerant, it's a nutrient elemental uptake issue (not leaf cupping, wilt, lack of buds, etc.) and as long as the pH of the soil is not totally wacked out i.e. 5.0 or 8.6, you're OK. Hydro is different, a lower pH is usually recommended depending on foods used, type of medium, etc.
Get rid of the cheap moisture and pH meters - they do more harm than good.
Epsom Salts additions - Sorry folks, it's not a magic cure-all as you would like to believe. Since folks provide Mg in some form or fashion to their faves, Mg deficiencies are actually quite rare. An Mg deficiency will show up in the lower to mid level leaves as a chlorosis, a pale yellow or whitish-yellow background in the leaf with green veins. DO NOT OVER CORRECT with 2 tblsp./gallon if you are sure there is indeed a Mg deficiency. By over-correcting, you're gonna be doing another "aw shit" by inducing a deficiency of another element, say..... calcium. The concept is called nutrient antagonism. http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm
Good luck,
UB
What do you mean you use no nutes? Are your plants receiving none of the 16 essential elements required for proper growth and health?hey ub i also have well water and latley im noticing the plants getting some weird coloring and since i use no nutes i think its because of my hard water if i take a pic and post it can you help me out?
pH of soil and water decreases as you go east in the U.S. due to increasing rainfall. You must be sitting on a mound of caliche.Actually I would have to disagree with you on the PH thing as I know the PH in the east is very high and can do a lot of harm if you mix it with the nute etc.
Problem is, they're thinking wrong.Anything you do too much to the plant can and will effect it's growth and you will see problems. Your right that ppl without experience do jump on the wagons of ph but that is okay as it gets ppl thinking.
Not going to get into how I know but I do know that we had our plants tested years ago and the ph was 8 at the time we were doing hydoponics so that was much too high and the water needed to be adjusted as our plants were dying.peace out Headband707What do you mean you use no nutes? Are your plants receiving none of the 16 essential elements required for proper growth and health?
pH of soil and water decreases as you go east in the U.S. due to increasing rainfall. You must be sitting on a mound of caliche.
Problem is, they're thinking wrong.
Enjoy your thoughts,
UB
He is talking specifically about soil here. In E&F and DWC you don't get a buffer. If you check the ph of soil generally it will be in an acceptable range. Assuming you've done nothing to screw it all up.UB, lemme start out by saying that, as always, I highly respect your opinion and experience.
That being said, I also agree that too many plant problems are "blindly" blamed on pH problems, when in actuality they're caused by other factors.
However, I feel as though if you're going to make a thread such as this with a title such as this, you should let the reader(s) know that you're specifically referencing soil grows - not tracking your pH in hydro is way, way, way different then not tracking your pH in dirt.
Also, your title (to me, anyways) some what trivializes pH, which (I believe, and I'm sure you'll say "wrongly") is one of the two most important things I monitor (along with PPM, but that's because the rest of my grow is dialed in and grows itself).
I don't pH any of my outdoor veggies, and they're fine, to your point (grown in soil - soil's a buffer, I get that).
The same can not be said of my indoor "veggies" in DWC/E&F.
Anyways, thanks as always for your time, and happy gardening.