InvaderMark
Well-Known Member
thats really long, can you summerize that??? lol. jk. ill read it later.
What's the deal with Molasses?
- Thread starter High4lyfe
- Start date
TheGhoul
Active Member
I use Sucanat instead of molases .
Molases makes an unholy mess out of a hydro res.
Here's a piece by Ed. on it . Maybe some answers about the carbo. questions too .
Peace
TheGhoul
>
>Ive got a sweet tooth for sugary, candy-flavored ganja. In fact, sugar is
>not only the cannabis plants source of energy for growth; its also the
>primary factor that determines how good your favorite herb will taste when
>you smoke it. In my many years of horticultural experimentation, Ive tried
>many different sugar supplements to augment my plants health and flavor,
>and I want to share a few of my favorites. Some of this information will be
>a refresher course for seasoned growers, but Id like to start at the
>beginning for the introductory grower and briefly explain the importance of
>sugar to plants. Plants make their own sugars (carbohydrates) through
>photosynthesis. Plants combine light energy (from the sun or a
>high-intensity discharge lamp) with water and CO2 from the atmosphere (or a
>CO2 tank or burner), and the result is sugar. This sugar is the essential
>source of energy thats utilized for all cellular division and the
>formation of plant structures (i.e., huge, dank buds). Now, you cant grow
>a plant in the dark by watering it with sugar, but under otherwise good
>growing conditions, you can supplement your nutrient solution with extra
>sugars to boost the natural levels created by photosynthesis and make your
>plants more vigorous and productive. The real icing on the cake, though,
>comes from the fact that a little extra sugar will improve not only the
>yield of your garden but also the flavor of your favorite herb.
>For serious growers and/or gadget collectors, you can even measure the
>amount of sugar (on this scale, we call it brix, pronounced bree) in your
>plant with a device called a refractometer. Dont shy away from the fancy
>name if youre afraid of complicated devices; this tool is super-easy to
>operate. Using a sap extractor (or a pair of pliers), you can squeeze a
>drop of juice out of a leaf and then place it on the refractometers
>viewing plate. Look through the lens and you will see an obvious line
>running across a column of numbers. Brix readings above 12 indicate good
>plant health and a strong immune system. With a device like this, youll
>impress your friends (Oooh a refracto-what?) and also be able to detect
>when a change in your feeding program or environment affects your crop as
>the readings go up or down. Frequent checks of brix content in leaf tissue
>will tell you whether your plants are on course or falling behind. Peaceful
>Valley Farm Supply sells refractometers for $100, and you can find them
>online at groworganic.com.
>Until about seven or eight years ago, using sugar as a plant supplement was
>a little-known trick more often employed by grandmothers on their
>houseplants than ganja growers on their herb. But now the hydroponics
>market is full of sugar (carbohydrate) supplements. In the beginning, there
>were several glucose-based products, such as Carbo Load, Carbo Max, Karbo
>Boost, etc. These are very cost-effective products as far as plant
>supplements go, but theyre not as cheap as raw glucose itself (usually
>sold as dextrose or corn sugarits really the same thing), available at
>brewery-supply outlets and online for just over $1 per poundless than $1 a
>pound if you buy in bulk. While glucose is readily available to plants as a
>form of supplemental carbohydrates, its just one form of a simple sugar
>and lacks the rich flavor found in other, darker kinds of sugar. It can
>also be difficult to dissolve: If you dump a large amount into water all at
>once, it has a tendency to form into a gelatinous wad of goo (of which even
>a small amount can wreak havoc in a hydro garden with small drippers or
>emitters). To avoid this, dissolve the amount necessary for your reservoir
>into a beaker of warm water first and pour off the dissolved liquid. Leave
>any undissolved materials at the bottom of the beaker and add more water
>until fully dissolved. The use of these products will indeed boost brix
>levels, but it doesnt do much for flavor enhancement, which is what this
>article is all about.
>My all-time-favorite source of supplemental sugar isnt sold by a
>plant-nutrient company. Its Sucanata form of dark raw sugar sold as a
>sweetener for foods in natural-food stores everywhere. But Sucanat is a
>great sweetener for your sinsemilla, too. Made by Wholesome Sweeteners,
>Sucanat is short for Sugar Cane Natural, a dried cane extract available
>for under $3 per pound. Sucanat is darker than most organic sugars and has
>a more molasses-like consistency to it because it hasnt been separated or
>refined. It will increase the brix content in plants, but the darker sugar
>has more vitamins and minerals and a rich caramel aroma as well. Sucanat
>dissolves readily in hot water and doesnt seem to turn into goo like
>dextrose does.
Molases makes an unholy mess out of a hydro res.
Here's a piece by Ed. on it . Maybe some answers about the carbo. questions too .
Peace
TheGhoul
>
>Ive got a sweet tooth for sugary, candy-flavored ganja. In fact, sugar is
>not only the cannabis plants source of energy for growth; its also the
>primary factor that determines how good your favorite herb will taste when
>you smoke it. In my many years of horticultural experimentation, Ive tried
>many different sugar supplements to augment my plants health and flavor,
>and I want to share a few of my favorites. Some of this information will be
>a refresher course for seasoned growers, but Id like to start at the
>beginning for the introductory grower and briefly explain the importance of
>sugar to plants. Plants make their own sugars (carbohydrates) through
>photosynthesis. Plants combine light energy (from the sun or a
>high-intensity discharge lamp) with water and CO2 from the atmosphere (or a
>CO2 tank or burner), and the result is sugar. This sugar is the essential
>source of energy thats utilized for all cellular division and the
>formation of plant structures (i.e., huge, dank buds). Now, you cant grow
>a plant in the dark by watering it with sugar, but under otherwise good
>growing conditions, you can supplement your nutrient solution with extra
>sugars to boost the natural levels created by photosynthesis and make your
>plants more vigorous and productive. The real icing on the cake, though,
>comes from the fact that a little extra sugar will improve not only the
>yield of your garden but also the flavor of your favorite herb.
>For serious growers and/or gadget collectors, you can even measure the
>amount of sugar (on this scale, we call it brix, pronounced bree) in your
>plant with a device called a refractometer. Dont shy away from the fancy
>name if youre afraid of complicated devices; this tool is super-easy to
>operate. Using a sap extractor (or a pair of pliers), you can squeeze a
>drop of juice out of a leaf and then place it on the refractometers
>viewing plate. Look through the lens and you will see an obvious line
>running across a column of numbers. Brix readings above 12 indicate good
>plant health and a strong immune system. With a device like this, youll
>impress your friends (Oooh a refracto-what?) and also be able to detect
>when a change in your feeding program or environment affects your crop as
>the readings go up or down. Frequent checks of brix content in leaf tissue
>will tell you whether your plants are on course or falling behind. Peaceful
>Valley Farm Supply sells refractometers for $100, and you can find them
>online at groworganic.com.
>Until about seven or eight years ago, using sugar as a plant supplement was
>a little-known trick more often employed by grandmothers on their
>houseplants than ganja growers on their herb. But now the hydroponics
>market is full of sugar (carbohydrate) supplements. In the beginning, there
>were several glucose-based products, such as Carbo Load, Carbo Max, Karbo
>Boost, etc. These are very cost-effective products as far as plant
>supplements go, but theyre not as cheap as raw glucose itself (usually
>sold as dextrose or corn sugarits really the same thing), available at
>brewery-supply outlets and online for just over $1 per poundless than $1 a
>pound if you buy in bulk. While glucose is readily available to plants as a
>form of supplemental carbohydrates, its just one form of a simple sugar
>and lacks the rich flavor found in other, darker kinds of sugar. It can
>also be difficult to dissolve: If you dump a large amount into water all at
>once, it has a tendency to form into a gelatinous wad of goo (of which even
>a small amount can wreak havoc in a hydro garden with small drippers or
>emitters). To avoid this, dissolve the amount necessary for your reservoir
>into a beaker of warm water first and pour off the dissolved liquid. Leave
>any undissolved materials at the bottom of the beaker and add more water
>until fully dissolved. The use of these products will indeed boost brix
>levels, but it doesnt do much for flavor enhancement, which is what this
>article is all about.
>My all-time-favorite source of supplemental sugar isnt sold by a
>plant-nutrient company. Its Sucanata form of dark raw sugar sold as a
>sweetener for foods in natural-food stores everywhere. But Sucanat is a
>great sweetener for your sinsemilla, too. Made by Wholesome Sweeteners,
>Sucanat is short for Sugar Cane Natural, a dried cane extract available
>for under $3 per pound. Sucanat is darker than most organic sugars and has
>a more molasses-like consistency to it because it hasnt been separated or
>refined. It will increase the brix content in plants, but the darker sugar
>has more vitamins and minerals and a rich caramel aroma as well. Sucanat
>dissolves readily in hot water and doesnt seem to turn into goo like
>dextrose does.
GoodFriend
Lumberjack
molasses is def. not for hydro... you can find plenty of people on this site who have had lots of problems with that (fletch, where you at?!) haha
but its a wonderful thing to use in organic growing...
try and read that article sometime though, its a good read
but its a wonderful thing to use in organic growing...
try and read that article sometime though, its a good read
Seriously... they don't absorb carbs. Whatever microorganisms that are living in the soil will use carbs but the only place carbs fit into photosynthesis is as a product (CO2 + H2O ----> Carbs; and light is the energy source).im not denying this fact cuz i dont know. .i was just saying how they do use carbs.
godspeedsuckah
Well-Known Member
I have been using molasses once a week for 4 weeks (I am in week 9 of flowering) and I really cant say whether it has helped or not. My soil looks good, she is drinking ALOT of water, but as far as the nutritional benefits; haven't noticed any.
godspeedsuckah
Well-Known Member
Very good read WSU | Ask Dr. Universe | The BIG Questions and yet another example of why fdd2blk was right in "its all bullshit..."
InvaderMark
Well-Known Member
stop being so stubborn silly. i know that glucose, a polysaccharide, also a form of carbohydrates, is created by the process of photosynthesis. 6 CO2 + 12 H2O + light → C6 H12 O6 + 6 O2 + 6 H2O. Like i said, i was showing you how they are used because in your first post you said "Since when do plants use carbohydrates?"
lol, ok... they obviously use the carbohydrates that they make. Otherwise they wouldn't waste energy making something that's useless.stop being so stubborn silly. i know that glucose, a polysaccharide, also a form of carbohydrates, is created by the process of photosynthesis. 6 CO2 + 12 H2O + light → C6 H12 O6 + 6 O2 + 6 H2O. Like i said, i was showing you how they are used because in your first post you said "Since when do plants use carbohydrates?"
My initial question was directed at the guy, like many others on here, who thinks sugar is going to be absorbed by the roots.
lol.. AY EXCUSS ME WHO ABOUT ANSWERING THE GUY WHO PSTED THE THREAD...LOL
when I'm goign to use mollassas cause when it comes down to it,, it won't hurt the plant... if anything i'll just have sweet rich soil (lol)...
but when do i add it to the plant for those whoe do believe it works... so far i have it at 5 weeks into flowering any other opinions or is it more a matter of how far along the individual plant is on bud production?
when I'm goign to use mollassas cause when it comes down to it,, it won't hurt the plant... if anything i'll just have sweet rich soil (lol)...
but when do i add it to the plant for those whoe do believe it works... so far i have it at 5 weeks into flowering any other opinions or is it more a matter of how far along the individual plant is on bud production?
InvaderMark
Well-Known Member
i just started using it 2 days ago, so i'll also let ya know if or when i see any changes.
InvaderMark
Well-Known Member
well. heres the situation. first grow, small box, about 29x25x30.. (hxwxl) and me being a noob didnt know about lst and topping and all that good stuff, so i went 12 12 right away. but from preflower, id say 4 weeks.ish.. total guess-a-ment. and idont know if its genetics, but the one bud has double in size! 
InvaderMark
Well-Known Member
it could also be my high ass imagination.. but there is a size difference from a couple days ago
INVADER MARK... Thank you! i was sittin here readin all these replies n i appreciate, but ppl tend to lead off the subject and get into other conversations with eachother..
it's kind of funny when u watch it from the 1sthread i posted on when to use mollases n then it kind of developes into a debate if i should use it or not... then into a botany class on the glucose and carbohydrates breakdown..
but ye aprreciate the advice...
4rm u and evrybody else..
it's kind of funny when u watch it from the 1sthread i posted on when to use mollases n then it kind of developes into a debate if i should use it or not... then into a botany class on the glucose and carbohydrates breakdown..but ye aprreciate the advice...
4rm u and evrybody else..