MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

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travish413

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travish413 said:
I got the cxa-r2... I am a bit confused tho... Isnt the psw that came with the pump serve the same purpose as this dwyer pressure switch? BTW I wish i was rich! lol I just left my wife so i feel like a millionaire;-) I was thinkin that I wouldnt have to use this dwyer switch since the aquatec came with the 340 psw... Can you explain the different ways that i would use each of them. Or are they basically the same. I could just use them on two separate manifolds? I am really confused... sorry:dunce:
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The way i was going to install everything was like this and tell me what i need to change bc i figure its not going to be right.
Main Res-aquatec pump-aquatec psw- TEE leading to the acc tank- solenoid which will be connected to the cycle timer- and then on to the manifold which i wll branch off of. Should i utilize the dywer pressure switch since i have it layin around or what should i actually do with it?
 
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Atomizer

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It seems the 340 psw is an optional extra, did it come as a package deal? you dont need it..send it back for a refund :)
The dwyer is adjustable where the 340 has a fixed 40psi cutoff point. It needs to be at least 58psi to open the adv`s.

You need a line from the pump to the solenoid with the pressure switch, accumulator, pressure guage tee`d off the line. A shutoff valve between the line and the tank is useful for isolating it. An extra outlet on the line is ideal for draining everything back to the res if you need to as TF suggested.
 
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travish413

Well-Known Member
Atomizer said:
It seems the 340 psw is an optional extra, did it come as a package deal? you dont need it..send it back for a refund :)
The dwyer is adjustable where the 340 has a fixed 40psi cutoff point. It needs to be at least 58psi to open the adv`s.

You need a line from the pump to the solenoid with the pressure switch, accumulator, pressure guage tee`d off the line. A shutoff valve between the line and the tank is useful for isolating it. An extra outlet on the line is ideal for draining everything back to the res if you need to as TF suggested.
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Yeah, i actually bought it as an extra thinking i could adjust the pressure on the 340 psw... I guess I need to pay closer attention:wall:
 
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travish413

Well-Known Member
Atomizer said:
It seems the 340 psw is an optional extra, did it come as a package deal? you dont need it..send it back for a refund :)
The dwyer is adjustable where the 340 has a fixed 40psi cutoff point. It needs to be at least 58psi to open the adv`s.

You need a line from the pump to the solenoid with the pressure switch, accumulator, pressure guage tee`d off the line. A shutoff valve between the line and the tank is useful for isolating it. An extra outlet on the line is ideal for draining everything back to the res if you need to as TF suggested.
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here is a web site that says you can adjust http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=aquatec-psw Do u still think i should trash it?
 
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Atomizer

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If you can send it back thats what i would do.
The dwyer has wide adjustment range where the 340 will be very limited. I doubt it`ll reach 60psi before the adjustment max`s out. The dwyer CXA-S2 has a range of 30-100psi, the deadband can be set anywhere from 20-35psi.

Aere you sure you have an R2 switch? its a normally open (N/O) switch, you need the S2 normally closed (N/C).
 
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travish413

Well-Known Member
Atomizer said:
If you can send it back thats what i would do.
The dwyer has wide adjustment range where the 340 will be very limited. I doubt it`ll reach 60psi before the adjustment max`s out. The dwyer CXA-S2 has a range of 30-100psi, the deadband can be set anywhere from 20-35psi.

Aere you sure you have an R2 switch? its a normally open (N/O) switch, you need the S2 normally closed (N/C).
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I am an idiot... I just looked at it is a normally open switch... I guess i'll be ordering a different one.
 
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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
Don`t beat yourself up too much, its easily done.
Looking on the brightside you`ve saved yourself from a nightmare..setting up the cut-in/cut-out pressures would have been impossible :)

The S3 has a minimum deadband of 30psi, so if you wanted the pump to cut-out at 100psi, the cut-in will need to be 70psi or less. The S2 has a min deadband of 20psi so you could go 100psi cut-out and 80psi cut-in.
One may be better suited than the other depending on what min/max pressure range you want the system to operate at, the S2 will only go upto 100psi where the S3 goes to 150psi.
 
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travish413

Well-Known Member
Atomizer said:
Don`t beat yourself up too much, its easily done.
Looking on the brightside you`ve saved yourself from a nightmare..setting up the cut-in/cut-out pressures would have been impossible :)

The S3 has a minimum deadband of 30psi, so if you wanted the pump to cut-out at 100psi, the cut-in will need to be 70psi or less. The S2 has a min deadband of 20psi so you could go 100psi cut-out and 80psi cut-in.
One may be better suited than the other depending on what min/max pressure range you want the system to operate at, the S2 will only go upto 100psi where the S3 goes to 150psi.
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i was going to try 95 cut in and 65 out. really dont have any logic behind it:? just a shot in the dark:neutral:
 
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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
Tee it off the main line just like a pressure guage. It looks like the switch takes a 1/4" npt male connector so it should be easy to sort out.
You`ll like this, if you use 95psi with a 4ft run of 10mm bore pipework between solenoid and adv, you`ll get a 1/100th second mist run-on after the solenoid closes..and thats using a single 8.1LPH nozzle :)
 
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travish413

Well-Known Member
Atomizer said:
Tee it off the main line just like a pressure guage. It looks like the switch takes a 1/4" npt male connector so it should be easy to sort out.
You`ll like this, if you use 95psi with a 4ft run of 10mm bore pipework between solenoid and adv, you`ll get a 1/100th second mist run-on after the solenoid closes..and thats using a single 8.1LPH nozzle :)
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Wow, thats pretty amazing... I think i am going to hook these netafim nozzles up and run them for a while. I can tell i still have alot to learn about this hp aero but i am getting there.:?
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
Wow, those are very reasonably priced pressure switches. I install for friends quite a few submersible pumps with a captive air tank and assorted valves etc for wells and I always ended up paying around $70 to $100 for Square D brand pressure switch for ranges around 80 to 100 psi.
 
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travish413

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
Wow, those are very reasonably priced pressure switches. I install for friends quite a few submersible pumps with a captive air tank and assorted valves etc for wells and I always ended up paying around $70 to $100 for Square D brand pressure switch for ranges around 80 to 100 psi.
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Yeah and they good quality too. Or atleast the by the looks. I havent got to test one out yet. is the electrical pretty straight forward on hookin these switches to the pumps.
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
Pretty straight forward. Two lines in tow out and a ground. Dark wire to the brass screw, white wire to the silver screw. Green wire is ground.
 
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travish413

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I am going to cut that ibc tank to the height that i want it but not sure how tall i need it. I plan on using the netafim check valves and probably the netafim foggers too. Atomizer since you have experience with them do you have any ideas? I said 14in the other day but really meant 24in. I am startin to think that is a lil too tall and maybe meet in the middle somewhere? I am going to build a frame around it so i can insulate and have a top that fits square. So, if its a lil short it wont be a problem, basically the ibc will be used to catch the runoff.
 
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Atomizer

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I think ibc`s are about a metre high, so chopping it exactly in half will give you two good sized chambers. A single 4-way cross with 7.5 nozzles should deliver enough mist for the chamber..maybe too much :)
Ideally it`ll need to be positioned where the nozzles can fire into clear air space so the mist has a chance to spread out before running into anything. You`ll need to take plant type and spacing into account as tree roots will tend to block more than a sog with one placement and vice versa with another. When you have the nozzles up and running you`ll get a better idea of the spread and throw.
If you have good mains water pressure you could hook up a hose temporarily to check out possible placements while waiting for the new pressure switch to arrive.
 
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travish413

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I am still confused on the electrical part of the new pressure switch though... I have this http://www.isopurewater.com/aquatec-aquatec-tas10419-volt-6800-series-transformer-pi-2687.html?osCsid=cbedhps8se6mm9acfk50cqs911. How to I hook it to this http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Product.cfm?Group_ID=582&sPageName=Ordering. I dont get any wires with the pressure switch so would i just cut the end off the transformer and wire to the pressure switch? I really dont think that would be the correct thing to do that why i am asking you all.:mrgreen:
 
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travish413

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No, scratch that... I would be using the wires from my pump to the dywer switch but then could i still use the transformer?
I am totally in the dark on how to hook this pump to the pressure switch... I would appreciate any input at all! Thanks!
 
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