Colorado Med Growers, Unite

[DannyGreenEyes]

I'm all about soil, Just not organic

you really should consider going chemical, UB has a thread on this that says best used in soilless mixes NOT ORGANIC

check it here
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/182500-mycorrhizal-fungi-applications-cannabis-caveats.html

and we all know UB is a chem guy as well

Thanks for the link, I'll have to read it little by little. It's a big thread.

I'm not sure why the one he's using doesn't work well in soil, but he's using a different strain. The strain in MYKEs is Glorrius Intraradices (might be mispelled - the writing is small) and it's the only strain in there. 7 spores per gram.

That strain works great in soil. I'll have to read through the thread to see what I can find about the other species on beneficial fungus to see which is the best for me. The one that traps spring tails for the N wouldn't do me much good since I have no springtails.

For the mean time, MYKEs is working great, but I'm always looking for ways to improve.

 

[doogleef]

Thats a great thread on Myco, I had started it but not read it to completion because i'm a chem guy. As usual, Uncle Ben and crew came to a reasoned conclusion: Very little benefit for cannabis or any annual container plant for that matter. It takes up to 2 years to fully colonize after application. Zero to very little added activity in the first 3-4 months (the length of a grow cycle). If your not adding it to your soil outside the previous year or mixing up your dirt at least 6 months in advance you are seeing no real benefit.

8. How Are Mycorrizhae Applied To New Plants?

This is easy if you are planting a seed; just put a small amount of mycorrizhae powder in the hole in direct contact with the seed. Obviously, applying mycorrizhae to existing plants is a little more difficult. If a plant is being transplanted then sprinkle mycorrizhae in the soil before you put the plant in. With existing plants, add the mycorrizhae to the fertilizer and the mycorrizhae will soak into the soil. When this method is used it's reported 1 that root mycorrizhae has increased in one year from 0% to 30%; within two years it as gone up to 50% to 60%.


1. http://www.soilfoodweb.com/01_servic.../04_step_5.htm

Info from : http://www.super-grow.biz/Myco.jsp#where

 

[doogleef]

I want to pre-empt the oncoming posts about "My plants grow so much better" and "treated roots are everything" by saying that to have any validity you must have an untreated control group or at least have grown the strain in the same op multiple times to know if you are really seeing anything new. Ah, science.

P.S. Know what has a large amount of myco activity, is cheap, and organic growers love? Compost.

 

[growman09]

i was under the impression that the spores and additives like that r used with organics to break everything down for the plant to make it available sooner (organic nutrients) instead of waiting for them to decompose and break dwn themselves this is how it was explained to me not sure if its 100 percent correct though

 

[growman09]

na billbob is it any good?

 

[DannyGreenEyes]

Thats a great thread on Myco, I had started it but not read it to completion because i'm a chem guy. As usual, Uncle Ben and crew came to a reasoned conclusion: Very little benefit for cannabis or any annual container plant for that matter. It takes up to 2 years to fully colonize after application. Zero to very little added activity in the first 3-4 months (the length of a grow cycle). If your not adding it to your soil outside the previous year or mixing up your dirt at least 6 months in advance you are seeing no real benefit.


Info from : http://www.super-grow.biz/Myco.jsp#where

No real benefit? Shhhh, my plants might hear you & stop growing so fast. lol

Just like anything else, every strain of Mycorrhiza is different. The strains he was using, according to him, do not work well in soil. The strain I'm using does, and the product I'm using is made for the transplanting of trees & shrubs. Works great for me.

 

[DannyGreenEyes]

I want to pre-empt the oncoming posts about "My plants grow so much better" and "treated roots are everything" by saying that to have any validity you must have an untreated control group or at least have grown the strain in the same op multiple times to know if you are really seeing anything new. Ah, science.

P.S. Know what has a large amount of myco activity, is cheap, and organic growers love? Compost.

So if I grow mine to 3' in 8 weeks (or 12' to use a ridiculous example), then it still don't mean dick because I didn't do a side by side? lol

Ok then, has anyone here ever grown NY Diesel, OG Blueberry, Opium, or Durban Poison? If yes, how big were they by week 8 & how many problems did you encounter while in veg?

 

[DannyGreenEyes]

i was under the impression that the spores and additives like that r used with organics to break everything down for the plant to make it available sooner (organic nutrients) instead of waiting for them to decompose and break dwn themselves this is how it was explained to me not sure if its 100 percent correct though

I'm not sure if it helps break down organics more quickly, but that is possible.

The one I'm using will go out a little ways & bring the nutes & water back to the roots somehow. It will help the roots to colonize better & grow bigger. And it will help the roots to absorb more of everything.

For more info, look it up on Wiki and click on some of those links at the bottom.

There are many varieties of Mycorrhiza, and each one behaves differently, just like anything else.

 

[DannyGreenEyes]

OK, gotta go fix my car & pick some stuff up from the nursery so I can finish transplanting. Peace.

 

[Arvada]

I want to pre-empt the oncoming posts about "My plants grow so much better" and "treated roots are everything" by saying that to have any validity you must have an untreated control group or at least have grown the strain in the same op multiple times to know if you are really seeing anything new. Ah, science.

P.S. Know what has a large amount of myco activity, is cheap, and organic growers love? Compost.

Doogleaf, Thanks for keeping touch with reality.

 

[Arvada]

Today I was looking at Paulinos Nursery website.

It stated that Seniors (55 yrs) receive 20 % off everything every Wednesday thru EOM March.

I am not affilliated - just thought to pass it on, Colorado people.

 

[Dr. VonDank]

Whats going on tonight???

 

[riddleme]

Whats going on tonight???

American Idol

 

[MileHIGHclub101]

clone clipping

 

[riddleme]

Plus I posted the final summary in my class

Whew took me 10 hours to write it

 

[growman09]

just transplanted 1 of my babies and added a couple fans to my intake tryin to get my temps down a bit they re stayin about 80 - 82 i would like to get them down

 

[Coloradored]

Nice a Colorado Thred

 

[DannyGreenEyes]

Hey everyone, I just finished the transplants (FINALLY!!!). I saw & squished 8 Broad Mites on the first planter, I wasn't happy. But I only saw & squished 1 Broad Mite on each of the next two, and I didn't see any on the final 2. If I don't get rid of them soon, I think I'm gonna try dipping them in hot water like it suggests on that Entomology site.

I still haven't checked the two plants that I transplanted last week. I still have a lot of work to do.

I treated the 5 that I transplanted with a Neem Oil/Fungicide ready to use spray that I picked up. Next I'm gonna treat the 2 that I transplanted last week, clean all the dead lady bugs up in the room, treat everything in the room again, pull another 50 clones (I'm not going to use Mycorrhiza on these so I can do a comparison with the 50 I pulled last week), and then put the girls back & release 3,000 more lady bugs that I picked up today (the lady bug head count was getting low). Gonna be a long night. lol

I have 3 questions though........

The first 3 pics look like nute burns to me. I pulled a lot of leaves like these off the first 3 that I transplanted, and none off the last 2. So it may also be Broad Mite damage. But again, it looks like nute burns to me. Also, the damaged leaves were all on low branches that weren't getting much light. Could this be from a lack of light? (What do you think, nutes, mites, or lack of light?)

The next pic is of some brown roots, they were located over most of the drainage holes. Could this be from air getting to them through the drainage holes?

The next 7 pics are closeups of the colinization that I saw. I'm still a newbie, but in my research I saw a bunch of root pics, and to me this looks like better than average colinization. But again, I'm still a newbie. Tell me what you think of the colinization (poor?, average?, above average?, fucking awesome? - I don't know if this is important, but the plants will be 9 weeks old on Fri and that's what is at the edge of 5gal containers)

If anyone's interested I'll update later with new pics, measurements, and growth reports. It will probably be 2 or 3 hours though before I'm done.

I'll be checking back every now & then as I work, so please feel free to comment.

As always, +rep for any and all help.

Thanks, and I hope you like the pics.

 

[doogleef]

So if I grow mine to 3' in 8 weeks (or 12' to use a ridiculous example), then it still don't mean dick because I didn't do a side by side? lol

That is exactly what I'm saying. How do you know you would not have 3' plants in 8 weeks without that stuff? You don't.

Spores take several months to colonize. Attributing immediate root growth to freshly introduced spores is irrational.

Placebo effect.

 

[DannyGreenEyes]

That is exactly what I'm saying. How do you know you would not have 3' plants in 8 weeks without that stuff? You don't.

Spores take several months to colonize. Attributing immediate root growth to freshly introduced spores is irrational.

Placebo effect.

From what I've heard from books, growers, and everything else I've read, 2ft is average at 8 weeks if things go well. So if I had 3ft plants at 9 weeks I think it would be safe to say that I'm doing something that most don't to get that extra growth.

That said, the fact that I have 2ft plants at 8 1/2 weeks given all the problems that I've had tells me that the Mycorrhiza has made up for all my misfortunes & mistakes in only 5 weeks time.

I guess I could be wrong. These 4 different strains could be growing better than average for me for some other reason. But the Mycorrhiza is the only thing that I'm doing out of the ordinary.

At some point I'll do a side by side, but not till I can afford a lower yeild. I'm going to be doing a side by side (kind of, 5 days apart from planting) with the Rapid Rooter clones. At least I'll have an answer for that in a couple of weeks.

P.S. Do you realize how many varieties of Mycorrhiza there are? And there are several times that many whan you start talking about "beneficial micro organisms". Do you really think that any 1 rule holds true for all of them?

BTW, I bought a 3qt container today. I was wrong about it having only 1 type, it has several. I guess they couln't fit it all on the smaller container. Here's a list of the tyes that MYKEs contains:
Glorrius Intrardices
Pilolithus Tinctorius
Laccaria Laccata
Rhizopogon Roseolus
Rhizopogon Subscaerelescens
Rhizopogon Villosulus
Rhizopogon Vulgaris
Scleroderma Cepa
Sclerodema Citrinni

That was more for others that might be reading, I doubt you'll take the time to do any research. All I can tell you (with a lack of research on my own part) that this stuff was made for the soil, and it was designed for trees & shrubs so it's strong. Why it started to work in a few weeks, I don't know. All I know is it did. Don't take my word for it, check the pic of the roots. I have that question posted on a few sites and I'm getting a lot of interesting responses, most saying that they've never seen colonization like that at 8 weeks.

Further, I was told in this very thread not long ago that clones are mature and therefore can handle FFOF with out getting burned. These clones got burned in Ferti-Lome which I'm sure is more mild. Can you offer any other explanation if it's not the Mycorrhiza?