MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

[fatman7574]

Thats awesome Looks like something id throw together... just keep adding things till it works the way you need it too You should get TMH to write you a program once you know what timing cycle and all your specs are... Anyway i just wanted to stop by and say hi. I touched on the subject before, but i was doing a little rehabing.
38 days opiate free! I finally feel like getting started on my project again. Ill have it finished before long, I hope

Aren't you glad you grow MJ and not poppies. I've gone to the memorials services of more than just a few poppy growers over the years. Amazing how quick an unconscious person can suffocate on their own vomit. Euphoria gone too far is death in the world of opiates. To much MJ just makes you a fatman searching the grocery store munchies isle in the middle of the morning, afternoon, evening and night.

 

[sherriberry]

Craigslist is the place for any of that stuff cheap usually.

yeah, you were right on.

They have some plastic barrels on craigslist in blue, black or white, for 15 bucksa pop, and they come with a lid, and all kinds of unscrewable caps up top.

They are 55gal. They also have smaller 30ish gallon ones.

im thinking about doing the 55gal ones eventually.

They are 34 inches tall, and 24 inches accross.

Hell, i think these things are better for aero tubes if they were laid on their sides than enything eles i have seen anyone use. 24 inches wide is no joke.

Id use the blue or black obviously, not the white.

In the meantime, im still trying to solve this netpot site on a vertical wall issue.

I will link some pics if i can to show you what ive found..

This first one is a double female 45 degree 1 1/2 inch pvc elbow... and guess what fits down inside of it PERFECTLY??... a 2 inch net pot

The best angle is the 60 deg one, but it is not shown on their site, but its in the store. Obviously, the netpot would be at 60 deg from the vertical wall.

So the trick is fastening this pvc piece.. to a vertical wall. What im toying with is slicing a thin piece of pvc pipe, and fitting it into the female end... and then getting another female coupling to slip on the pvc pipe from inside the chamber... essentially using the 2 females as a sandwich... and cutting the hole in the vertical wall only big enough for the male pvc pipe... and then once everythign fits well, getting out the pvc glue and making sure they stay tight.

In both the 45 deg and the 60 deg, the bottom of the netpot almost makes it to the end of this piece, so the roots would hang down perfectly inside the chamber, away from the wall just a bit.

If you really wanted to keep them away from the wall, you could leave the female fitting on the inside longer, but the roots on the plant would have to be of good length before you put them in the chamber otherwise they would all be in the pvc, and not get misted.

This has a male end to it... they have one in the store that has a raised lip about an inch in from the male tip, so that the whloe piece wouldnt slip inside the chamber... add a female to this male from inside the wall, and you wouldnt have to have 3 pieces, you could eliminate the pvc male sliced section of pipe from the equation all together and just have this pictured fitting and a female fitting slide onto it from behind the wall.

Alright... im ready for one of you guys to tell me how to do it better and simpler and make me feel supid... come on, im ready.

 

[sherriberry]

as the plants grow and gain weight, the neoprene in the top of a net pot... when situated at an angle... it gives up eventually...

but the cool thing here is, by that time, youll also have a nice ball of roots... so no matter how heavy the plant gets, and wants to pull out of the pipe, the roots cant fit back through the small 2 inch pipe.

And since the pipe does a 60 deg bend, you dont have to worry about the plant falling back in the other way either because the stem wont go back through.

Those barrels... the lids come off...

im wondering if there is a way to attach 2 open lid barrels to eachother for all those guys whod like to lay them on their side, and use them as aero tubes.

Alright, Im done for the night

 

[Atomizer]

Tree farmer
Atomizer
Fatman,

Looks like this thread has gained some attention since i have been gone
Hope all is well with yalls grows and tree farmer i cant wait to see results from this second grow!

Welcome back Travish
Congrats on reaching the 38 day milestone.. stick with it.

 

[travish413]

Thanks everybody!
And fatman you are right... I have unfortunatly been to a few of my close friends funerals due to opiates. Thats when you need to step back and take a good look at what you are doing... But anyway i am good now and feel better than i did when I was on them. I'll quit talking about this now bc its totally off the subject of the thread but just want to say hi and i am back
Happy Growing

 

[fatman7574]

Welcome back.

 

[fatman7574]

Just because you haven't seen this, doesn't mean it is isn't true. Google TAG and look for the 53 page journal from IC. Pom-pom roots begin later than 8 weeks

Troller you haven't gone back to IC yet? Nobody here cares a bout IC, the TAG journal or your grow at IC. It is obvious you have no credibilty here so why are you jabbering your nonsence here. And your blue print is a definite turn off. Nobody cares what you write regardless of your trying to dress it up with color. It is merely ignorant gibberish.

 

[fatman7574]

I have read it 3 times, and have done my best to distill the essence into my IC journal, which is complete with weekly photo updates.

We don't want to here about you IC journal, nor do we care what is in it. Do you see any of us trolling your IC journal. I thought not. None of us are childish ego maniacs with an inferiority complex so we do not need to do such inconsiderate childish trolling, and link postings to other forums.


I know it's a difficult read, but there are certain TRUTHS there (like roots) and bacteria- your root chamber is humid right? and you do feed them right? But somehow (Magic perhaps) you don't have any bacteria? lol

Dunce, H2O2 is a very strong oxidizer which readily kills bacteria. Grow up and learn something before blowing words out your childish blow hole.


By far their biggest issue was dismissing <3 second feed times, those timers weren't readily available f0r a decent price.

There are good timers that can time down to 0.009 seconds dude. They are readily available. They are at least !50 though, but if you want a crappy system made with crappy components that is fine. But please take it back to the IC forum and talk about it there.

Some guys suggested adding accumulators, but that idea was dismissed.

No accumulator with a high pressure system. Troll you definitely need to go back to IC and quit talking your nonsense here.



Your not gone yet?

 

[Atomizer]

The TAG thread promotes the Pod Racers Aero Technique (P.R.A.T) its essentially 53 pages of soakaponic information.

Your 8 week theory is utter crap
Scientific fact: Fine root hairs grow at a rate of 1 micron per minute or just under 1/16" every 24 hours, they grow from Day One given the right conditions . They are short lived (a few days) and are constantly replaced.

 

[tree farmer]

I have read it 3 times, and have done my best to distill the essence into my IC journal, which is complete with weekly photo updates.


I know it's a difficult read, but there are certain TRUTHS there (like roots) and bacteria- your root chamber is humid right? and you do feed them right? But somehow (Magic perhaps) you don't have any bacteria? lol


By far their biggest issue was dismissing <3 second feed times, those timers weren't readily available fpr a decent price. Some guys suggested adding accumulators, but that idea was dismissed.

if what your doing makes you happy and you think you get better results then stick with what your doing. if youd like to contribute something based on real world evidence then show it. if your greater than 3 sec times works for you great and if you want to feed your bacteria great. just do us a favor and show us these magnificient speciments you have got using these methods. ive seen your roots and your plants and there isnt anything wrong with them except they arent any different than many lp aero grows ive done. im not knocking it but its just not the same results as youd get if you tweeked your system. like the gentleman said we dont come over to your journal and stir shit up why come over here. teach them ,you have a 11,000 hit journal isnt that enough. continue your work over there and then theyll be many more people who can experiment and they can all learn from your results. good luck hope things work out for ya. ill check in from time to time to see the final root shots.

 

[OregonMeds]

Nope.

1. too expensive.
2. too much work.
3. not enough volume
4. watch out for dead spots

15"+ round cylinders, or large boxes (with plenty of room around each mature root ball) as made by Pod Racer and others in their original TAG thread.

Where is this thread? I can't seem to find it.
I hate to ask such a dumb question but then I'll go back to mainly lurking, I promise.

 

[tree farmer]

Where is this thread? I can't seem to find it.
I hate to ask such a dumb question but then I'll go back to mainly lurking, I promise.

just go to icmag and type in TAG youll find the 53 page jibberish. and then type in petflora and youl find his wonderful journal filled with the cutting edge science of high pressure aeroponics. dont take my word for it everyone check it out and learn what you can. unfortunately ive learned nothing.

 

[tree farmer]

well i finally got my RO system up to par. added another 100GPD membrane and a small pump. wow what a difference. can make a gallon in under 5 minutes now and at a better ratio than 1:1. that means it will make one gallon with less than 1 gallon of waste. most are 3 gallons waste for one gallon RO water. the pump pressures the line to 85-95 constantly. this is going to save me alot of time and waste water. now i can use ro water like i want.

well fatman what do the best RO machines do for waste to RO ratios? im sure there somewhat better but for a home unit this is now satisfactory for my needs.

 

[fatman7574]

just go to icmag and type in TAG youll find the 53 page jibberish. and then type in petflora and youl find his wonderful journal filled with the cutting edge science of high pressure aeroponics. dont take my word for it everyone check it out and learn what you can. unfortunately ive learned nothing.

He has made it easier than that. Every thread he has posted to in this forum he has provided a direct link to his IC forum. I guess he bases his worth and esteem on how many people view his journal. It is so important to his sense of worth that he must post links to it all over IC and also in other forums such as here. Someone needs to teach him about self worth and self esteem rather than his always striving for outside affirmations from pot smoking strangers.

Unless the mods have finally removed it his link is in this tread on his post a couple pages back. He prattles on excessively and about 80% is simply wrong and the other 20% is already widely known information.

His plants are stretched out super thin and nearly lacking in foliage ie. just the opposite of what should be seen with a HP aero. His roots sytem looks like a low pressure aero systems roots. Not much there that reflects even a minor knowledge of HP aero growing.

 

[sherriberry]

anyone have a better idea for a way to locate a netpot on a vertical wall of a vertical chamber than my 45 deg pvc pipe idea a few pages back? Thanks

 

[Atomizer]

His plants are stretched out super thin and nearly lacking in foliage ie. just the opposite of what should be seen with a HP aero. His roots sytem looks like a low pressure aero systems roots. Not much there that reflects even a minor knowledge of HP aero growing.

By my reckoning his mist duration is 31x too long for the 135L chamber size. The 2 nozzles (in theory) should do 5.6ml in 3 seconds. In reality, it`ll be a lot more because he has no control over the pressure or run on.
If he`s happy with his roots thats fine but they don`t have the right characteristics to be tagged as hp aero.

 

[fatman7574]

well i finally got my RO system up to par. added another 100GPD membrane and a small pump. wow what a difference. can make a gallon in under 5 minutes now and at a better ratio than 1:1. that means it will make one gallon with less than 1 gallon of waste. most are 3 gallons waste for one gallon RO water. the pump pressures the line to 85-95 constantly. this is going to save me alot of time and waste water. now i can use ro water like i want.

well fatman what do the best RO machines do for waste to RO ratios? im sure there somewhat better but for a home unit this is now satisfactory for my needs.

I think that is the first RO filter system made up of standard home sized membranes where three membranes are being used in a single system. They are set up in parallel and not a series I assume. (separate feed for each not one feeding the next). Don't want to insinuate you do not know what parallel and series means but many readers might not.

Most really large RO systems such as industrial or water treatment plant systems use filters in parallel feeding others in a series. Say five membranes waste water feeds three membranes whose waster feeds one membrane. Small commercial RO system with high pressure and a divertor valve uses 1.3 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of RO water. To lower my electrical input I use water at 80 to 85 degrees F. MY water is heated for free as it is heated by the buildings boiler system that provides heat and my heat is included in my rent. My systems pump water at 200 to 220 psi. The membranes are I believe 2.5" inches in diameter and about 21 inches long. Each membrane supplies a little over 450 gallons per day.

I think you mean a ratio of 2:1. Two gallons used to produce one gallon of RO water or a gallon of waste per gallon of RO water produced. My commercial high pressure unit is 1.3:1 due to the diver tor valve. The diver tor valve takes up to (adjustable) 70% of the water from waste and diverts it back to the pump to be run back through the membrane along with fresh tap water.

At about 75% diversion my TDS output starts to increase above water output without diversion. The two ways to increase your output from a membrane and lower the amount of waste water is to increase the pressure and or increase the inlet water temperature. If you have to pay for heating the water that is too expensive. What many laboratories do is to Fill a large container (such as a big trash can) with water and install a valve near the bottom to feed your RO filter pump. Let the water warm to room temp. Use a second barrel for finished RO water. Pump the warm water through your RO filter and drain the waste water back into the feed barrel. Feed the RO water into the second barrel.

Run the pump until you have used up to 70% of the water from the first barrel. Turn off pump and top first barrel off with fresh tap water and let warm to room temp. The first barrel can usually be topped off at least four times before your fished RO water output starts increasing TDS beyond a few ppm. Once this start just dump the 20% of the water left in the barrel and use all fresh tao water. This will bring your waste to RO water ratio up to about what a commercial RO filter gets for a ratio.

RO membranes are designed to remove up to 2000 ppm of TDS at the same rejection efficiency as lower levels of TDS. At levels higher than that the rejection efficiency drops and the output TDS increases. I believe the manufacturers fudge their numbers though as their standard recommendation is to use a water softener if your water has a TDS higher than 1200 ppm. Retailers drop that number even lower.

One could just reuse and top off until the TDS output increases and then check the feed water ppm to determine at what ppm there system reaches that diminishing return point.

 

[tree farmer]

I think that is the first RO filter system made up of standard home sized membranes where three membranes are being used in a single system. They are set up in parallel and not a series I assume. (separate feed for each not one feeding the next). Don't want to insinuate you do not know what parallel and series means but many readers might not.

Most really large RO systems such as industrial or water treatment plant systems use filters in parallel feeding others in a series. Say five membranes waste water feeds three membranes whose waster feeds one membrane. Small commercial RO system with high pressure and a divertor valve uses 1.3 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of RO water. To lower my electrical input I use water at 80 to 85 degrees F. MY water is heated for free as it is heated by the buildings boiler system that provides heat and my heat is included in my rent. My systems pump water at 200 to 220 psi. The membranes are I believe 2.5" inches in diameter and about 21 inches long. Each membrane supplies a little over 450 gallons per day.

I think you mean a ratio of 2:1. Two gallons used to produce one gallon of RO water or a gallon of waste per gallon of RO water produced. My commercial high pressure unit is 1.3:1 due to the diver tor valve. The diver tor valve takes up to (adjustable) 70% of the water from waste and diverts it back to the pump to be run back through the membrane along with fresh tap water.

At about 75% diversion my TDS output starts to increase above water output without diversion. The two ways to increase your output from a membrane and lower the amount of waste water is to increase the pressure and or increase the inlet water temperature. If you have to pay for heating the water that is too expensive. What many laboratories do is to Fill a large container (such as a big trash can) with water and install a valve near the bottom to feed your RO filter pump. Let the water warm to room temp. Use a second barrel for finished RO water. Pump the warm water through your RO filter and drain the waste water back into the feed barrel. Feed the RO water into the second barrel.

Run the pump until you have used up to 70% of the water from the first barrel. Turn off pump and top first barrel off with fresh tap water and let warm to room temp. The first barrel can usually be topped off at least four times before your fished RO water output starts increasing TDS beyond a few ppm. Once this start just dump the 20% of the water left in the barrel and use all fresh tao water. This will bring your waste to RO water ratio up to about what a commercial RO filter gets for a ratio.

RO membranes are designed to remove up to 2000 ppm of TDS at the same rejection efficiency as lower levels of TDS. At levels higher than that the rejection efficiency drops and the output TDS increases. I believe the manufacturers fudge their numbers though as their standard recommendation is to use a water softener if your water has a TDS higher than 1200 ppm. Retailers drop that number even lower.

One could just reuse and top off until the TDS output increases and then check the feed water ppm to determine at what ppm there system reaches that diminishing return point.

they are hooked in series i believe its called.
pump sends water to first membrane input. the waste from the first membrane runs to the input of the second membrane and the waste from the second membrane runs to the third membrane input. water goes in the first membrane at 250ppm( well water)and comes out final waste line going to the drain at 450ppm. water is very cold but dont have a free source of heat.

im not sure on the ratio thing. what i meant was i put 2 one gallon jugs side by side and dropped the waste line in one jug and the output line from all three membranes into the second jug. started the pump and watched which filled first. the pure RO water filled in just around 5 minutes and the waste water jug filled 20 seconds later. so from 2 gallons of well water i got one gallon of RO water and 1 gallon of waste water. i guess that is 2.1 ratio then.

i asked if i could put another piggyback membrane on (making 4 membranes)and the guy said three was the most . although he told me the pump would only pump the system up to 75-85psi and it will boost it over a 100psi if i didnt have the ball valve leading to the first membrane closed alittle.
the reason i did that (closed the ball valve alittle)was he told me the RO system that i bought from them years ago and just added the other membranes as time went by was only rated to 100 psi. now it stays in the 85-95psi range depending on where the accumulator pressure feeding it is.

the membranes are 100gpd so if i can get 1 gallon every 5 minutes im getting 288 gallons aday. not to far off the 300 total they are rated for.

seems to me if i have to restrict the feed to the system why not add another membrane. and seeing the final ppm off the third membrane is only 450ppm i would think i could add another one. im going to call and find out after seeing the numbers.

i sure am enjoying watching the tank fill up in about a hr instead of waiting all day like i use too..

 

[sherriberry]

which ro system did you get? ive seen links to some great deals on them for around 100 bucks in the best deals thread. you get one of those or no?

 

[tree farmer]

which ro system did you get? ive seen links to some great deals on them for around 100 bucks in the best deals thread. you get one of those or no?

ive had the basic one membrane system for years. added a second membrane to the original system a year ago and finally now added the 3rd membrane and pump. so its been around 3 years since i bought it. it was a couple hundred back then. typical 3 stage RO system. thier way cheaper now i see. now looking back the pump is what really can turn a basic house RO into a decent machine unless you have a high main water pressure line to begin with.