canadianidiot
Member
Have you found anyone with it anymore? Im pretty sure Home Depot quit setlling it!
Root Clone Test - pictures
- Thread starter Hobbes
- Start date
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
the only place I have seen it recently is ace hardware.... for like 45$ a bag. havent been there in a while tho.
i know you can order the shit online, but i imagine the shipping would be ridiculous... i just cant find it locally atm.
maybe when they start stocking there spring stuff
wait.. edit/ps
look at what i found:
http://www.premierhort.com/eProMix/
just click the distributor locator....
i know you can order the shit online, but i imagine the shipping would be ridiculous... i just cant find it locally atm.
maybe when they start stocking there spring stuff
wait.. edit/ps
look at what i found:
http://www.premierhort.com/eProMix/
just click the distributor locator....
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
"wouldn't the roots just more likely rot or die without the plant?"
Yes. As they would also die if the plant were dug up with the roots and both put in a dark warm bucket.
We're experimenting to create an environment for the roots to bud (clone) as a branch cutting needs the proper moist and dark environment to root (not for the leaves, the stem). As well, we separate each piece of root from the root ball as though it were an individual cutting that we're putting in a bubbler or rockwool - we wouldn't stick a whole plant in a piece of rockwool and expect it to root grow roots at a branch; we wouldn't pick woody cuttings and expect them to root.
There are certain types of roots (adventitious) that have evolved to grow buds and propagate the plant under certain conditions - as roots are still much of a mystery to most of us we have to learn which roots are which and which of the adventitious roots will make good "cuttings" for clones.
Hopefully I've explained it well throughout the thread that each piece of root "cutting" has to be separated from the rest of the root ball. All of the root cutting can be mixed together to bud but they first must be torn apart so they are each individual pieces.
That being said, the only time I cloned with this method I had just a couple months growing experience and grabbed a bunch of roots from the bottom side of a bucket, thew it in an empty bucket, mixed in some distilled water, covered with plastic and a lid, in a couple of months had hundreds of sprouts. The learning curve is not high but we need adventitious roots (separated), not the seminal root; and we need the proper temperature and humidity, plus some other environmental factors we'll figure out over time.
.
"Also where is the light coming from for energy?"
Ninjax it's amazing how little information there is on the web about root cloning, so some of my answers come from speculation and the small bit of experience I have with this method rather than accredited sources. This is one of those speculation and experience explanations.
I suspect it's stored energy as in a seed, from when the root was attached to and feed by the plant. Roots are full of sugar that they receive from the upper plant in exchange for raw materials. One of the methods of root branching, constriction, causes a build up of sugars in the root on the plant side of the constriction; this is one of the factors that contribute to root branching on that side of the constriction.
.
How the Superoots Fielder works
Root tips penetrate the geotextile wall and base, unimpeded, and grow out into the surrounding soil. The fabric allows the root to expand until it reaches a diameter of 3mm, when the fabric stops giving and the root is successfully restricted.
Perfect restriction of a Fraxinus root - showing the large nodule, secondary branching behind the restriction, the point of restriction and the smaller external root.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/303229-diy-air-pruning-pot-experiment-5.html
.
"wouldn't the roots just more likely rot or die without the plant?"
Yes. As they would also die if the plant were dug up with the roots and both put in a dark warm bucket.
We're experimenting to create an environment for the roots to bud (clone) as a branch cutting needs the proper moist and dark environment to root (not for the leaves, the stem). As well, we separate each piece of root from the root ball as though it were an individual cutting that we're putting in a bubbler or rockwool - we wouldn't stick a whole plant in a piece of rockwool and expect it to root grow roots at a branch; we wouldn't pick woody cuttings and expect them to root.
There are certain types of roots (adventitious) that have evolved to grow buds and propagate the plant under certain conditions - as roots are still much of a mystery to most of us we have to learn which roots are which and which of the adventitious roots will make good "cuttings" for clones.
Hopefully I've explained it well throughout the thread that each piece of root "cutting" has to be separated from the rest of the root ball. All of the root cutting can be mixed together to bud but they first must be torn apart so they are each individual pieces.
That being said, the only time I cloned with this method I had just a couple months growing experience and grabbed a bunch of roots from the bottom side of a bucket, thew it in an empty bucket, mixed in some distilled water, covered with plastic and a lid, in a couple of months had hundreds of sprouts. The learning curve is not high but we need adventitious roots (separated), not the seminal root; and we need the proper temperature and humidity, plus some other environmental factors we'll figure out over time.
.
"Also where is the light coming from for energy?"
Ninjax it's amazing how little information there is on the web about root cloning, so some of my answers come from speculation and the small bit of experience I have with this method rather than accredited sources. This is one of those speculation and experience explanations.
I suspect it's stored energy as in a seed, from when the root was attached to and feed by the plant. Roots are full of sugar that they receive from the upper plant in exchange for raw materials. One of the methods of root branching, constriction, causes a build up of sugars in the root on the plant side of the constriction; this is one of the factors that contribute to root branching on that side of the constriction.
.
How the Superoots Fielder works
Root tips penetrate the geotextile wall and base, unimpeded, and grow out into the surrounding soil. The fabric allows the root to expand until it reaches a diameter of 3mm, when the fabric stops giving and the root is successfully restricted.
Perfect restriction of a Fraxinus root - showing the large nodule, secondary branching behind the restriction, the point of restriction and the smaller external root.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/303229-diy-air-pruning-pot-experiment-5.html
.
Hobbes
Well-Known Member
.
Pro Mix: Check your yellow pages for a nursery (plants not babies) and one should carry it. Rona carries it for $29 a bag in my area at the moment.
http://www.rona.ca/shop/~bxmycorise-pro-pro-mix-187876_!pro-mix_shop
.
Pro Mix: Check your yellow pages for a nursery (plants not babies) and one should carry it. Rona carries it for $29 a bag in my area at the moment.
http://www.rona.ca/shop/~bxmycorise-pro-pro-mix-187876_!pro-mix_shop
.
That 5hit
Well-Known Member
http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/grow-more-plants-with-root-cuttings.aspx
Grow more plants with root cuttings
Use this simple technique at the right time to multiply some of your favorites
by Hunter Stubbs
The major benefit of root cuttings is the simplicity of the process. Four easy steps can produce a large number of plants without requiring fancy equipment. This method of propagation requires that most of our efforts take place in very late autumn or very early spring, two times when we have a short list of gardening chores. The ensuing growing season will find your new plants filling out, and by the fall, they should be ready for a permanent place in your garden design.
Uncover the roots when the plant is dormant
Root cuttings are most effective if taken when plants are dormant, usually between November and February. This timing maximizes the stored energy in the roots and minimizes the stress on the parent plant. Once a plant breaks bud in the spring, energy begins to move out of the roots and into the plant, reducing the effectiveness of root cuttings. I also make sure the parent plant is well hydrated and was not under drought stress when it went dormant before I take any cuttings.
When collecting roots on smaller plants, such as perennials, I find it easier to simply lift them in their entirety. For shrubs, I unearth some of the roots on one side of the plant, digging in close proximity to the base to ensure I find roots belonging to the right plant. I then trace them out from the plant until I have a suffi­cient length to take several cuttings.
Make sure you find the right root.
Digging close to the base of your
shrub ensures that you get roots from
the right plant.
Then make sure you choose a living
root, not a dead, black one.
Choose roots that are pencil thick
Shrub roots can get quite large and
woody, but the best ones for cuttings
are those approximately as thick as a
pencil.
These are young, vigorous roots that are more likely to send up new shoots. With perennial roots, thicker is better. I use a sharp pair of pruners to make a straight cut at the end of the root closest to the parent plant. At the far end, I make a diagonal cut. This helps me maintain the root’s original orientation, critical to the production of new roots and shoots. I always avoid cutting off more than one-third of the roots because this may eliminate too much of the plant’s stored energy.
I then take the long pieces of root I removed and cut them into sections 3 to 6 inches long, making sure to cut the ends closest to the plant straight and the ends farthest from the plant at an angle. The optimal length is 3 to 6 inches because it ensures that there is enough energy in the cutting and, in some cases, enough dormant buds to produce roots and shoots.
After taking the cuttings, I replant the mother plant or cover the exposed roots. Then I water the area thoroughly to remove large air pockets in the soil and settle the roots back into their home.
Place the cuttings in soil, and wait
To get the most out of my cuttings, I treat perennials and woody plants differently at this stage.
Place perennial roots horizontally
because they can send up shoots
from several places along a cutting.
Perennials
I like to propagate perennial root cuttings in flats because they produce shoots quickly and have the ability to break bud in several places along the root. I place the cuttings horizontally, ½ inch deep, in a flat of moist potting soil (photo, above). To maintain high humidity, I cover the flat with a plastic bag or a pane of glass and place it under lights.
Woody Plants
If I’m working with cuttings from a woody plant (photos, below), I tie them in a loose bundle with like ends together. To locate the cuttings after storage, I wrap them with bright marking tape, allowing a few extra feet to hang from the bundle. I dig a hole below the frost level and place a few inches of sand in the bottom to ensure that the cuttings don’t rot from poor drainage. I then place the bundles with the slanted ends facing down in the bottom of the hole and refill it.
Tying the cuttings in a
bundle makes them easier
to find when it is time to
dig them up.
The entire hole doesn’t
need to be filled with
sand. But it is essential
in the bottom to reduce
the potential for rot.
Colored tape or some
other type of marker
wrapped around the
cuttings and sticking
aboveground will keep
you from planting on top
of the bundle.
Plant new shoots outside, and keep them moist
Cuttings stored in the ground should be ready to lift within three to four weeks but can stay buried for much longer if the weather remains too cold for them to be planted outside. When they are unearthed, the cuttings will likely have roots and, occasionally, some small shoots forming on the cuttings. Even if I see neither sign of growth, I still move forward, unwrapping the bundle and separating the cuttings. I plant the cuttings in freshly prepared, loose garden soil, setting them vertically, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the tops of the cuttings (the straight ends) approximately 2 inches below the soil surface. I mark the area well to prevent planting something else in the same place. As the temperatures rise, I make sure the cuttings stay moist. In a few months, new shoots should be apparent, and they will welcome a light solution of water-soluble fertilizer.
Perennial cuttings grown inside can sprout quicker than their outdoor counterparts. After several shoots emerge, I remove the protective covers, feed them with a half-strength solution of liquid fertilizer, and, if the plants are sun lovers, supply ample light. Just like seedlings, these new shoots will need to be gradually introduced to the rigors of outdoor life before they can be planted in a permanent home.
A new shoot
Time for shoots to become plants. To
help the transition, provide some TLC
in the form of moist, fertile, loose soil.
Grow more plants with root cuttings
Use this simple technique at the right time to multiply some of your favorites
by Hunter Stubbs
The major benefit of root cuttings is the simplicity of the process. Four easy steps can produce a large number of plants without requiring fancy equipment. This method of propagation requires that most of our efforts take place in very late autumn or very early spring, two times when we have a short list of gardening chores. The ensuing growing season will find your new plants filling out, and by the fall, they should be ready for a permanent place in your garden design.
Uncover the roots when the plant is dormant
Root cuttings are most effective if taken when plants are dormant, usually between November and February. This timing maximizes the stored energy in the roots and minimizes the stress on the parent plant. Once a plant breaks bud in the spring, energy begins to move out of the roots and into the plant, reducing the effectiveness of root cuttings. I also make sure the parent plant is well hydrated and was not under drought stress when it went dormant before I take any cuttings.
When collecting roots on smaller plants, such as perennials, I find it easier to simply lift them in their entirety. For shrubs, I unearth some of the roots on one side of the plant, digging in close proximity to the base to ensure I find roots belonging to the right plant. I then trace them out from the plant until I have a suffi­cient length to take several cuttings.
Make sure you find the right root.
Digging close to the base of your
shrub ensures that you get roots from
the right plant.
Then make sure you choose a living
root, not a dead, black one.
Choose roots that are pencil thick
Shrub roots can get quite large and
woody, but the best ones for cuttings
are those approximately as thick as a
pencil.
These are young, vigorous roots that are more likely to send up new shoots. With perennial roots, thicker is better. I use a sharp pair of pruners to make a straight cut at the end of the root closest to the parent plant. At the far end, I make a diagonal cut. This helps me maintain the root’s original orientation, critical to the production of new roots and shoots. I always avoid cutting off more than one-third of the roots because this may eliminate too much of the plant’s stored energy.
I then take the long pieces of root I removed and cut them into sections 3 to 6 inches long, making sure to cut the ends closest to the plant straight and the ends farthest from the plant at an angle. The optimal length is 3 to 6 inches because it ensures that there is enough energy in the cutting and, in some cases, enough dormant buds to produce roots and shoots.
After taking the cuttings, I replant the mother plant or cover the exposed roots. Then I water the area thoroughly to remove large air pockets in the soil and settle the roots back into their home.
Place the cuttings in soil, and wait
To get the most out of my cuttings, I treat perennials and woody plants differently at this stage.
Place perennial roots horizontally
because they can send up shoots
from several places along a cutting.
Perennials
I like to propagate perennial root cuttings in flats because they produce shoots quickly and have the ability to break bud in several places along the root. I place the cuttings horizontally, ½ inch deep, in a flat of moist potting soil (photo, above). To maintain high humidity, I cover the flat with a plastic bag or a pane of glass and place it under lights.
Woody Plants
If I’m working with cuttings from a woody plant (photos, below), I tie them in a loose bundle with like ends together. To locate the cuttings after storage, I wrap them with bright marking tape, allowing a few extra feet to hang from the bundle. I dig a hole below the frost level and place a few inches of sand in the bottom to ensure that the cuttings don’t rot from poor drainage. I then place the bundles with the slanted ends facing down in the bottom of the hole and refill it.
Tying the cuttings in a
bundle makes them easier
to find when it is time to
dig them up.
The entire hole doesn’t
need to be filled with
sand. But it is essential
in the bottom to reduce
the potential for rot.
Colored tape or some
other type of marker
wrapped around the
cuttings and sticking
aboveground will keep
you from planting on top
of the bundle.
Plant new shoots outside, and keep them moist
Cuttings stored in the ground should be ready to lift within three to four weeks but can stay buried for much longer if the weather remains too cold for them to be planted outside. When they are unearthed, the cuttings will likely have roots and, occasionally, some small shoots forming on the cuttings. Even if I see neither sign of growth, I still move forward, unwrapping the bundle and separating the cuttings. I plant the cuttings in freshly prepared, loose garden soil, setting them vertically, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the tops of the cuttings (the straight ends) approximately 2 inches below the soil surface. I mark the area well to prevent planting something else in the same place. As the temperatures rise, I make sure the cuttings stay moist. In a few months, new shoots should be apparent, and they will welcome a light solution of water-soluble fertilizer.
Perennial cuttings grown inside can sprout quicker than their outdoor counterparts. After several shoots emerge, I remove the protective covers, feed them with a half-strength solution of liquid fertilizer, and, if the plants are sun lovers, supply ample light. Just like seedlings, these new shoots will need to be gradually introduced to the rigors of outdoor life before they can be planted in a permanent home.
A new shoot
Time for shoots to become plants. To
help the transition, provide some TLC
in the form of moist, fertile, loose soil.
Attachments
FileError404
Active Member
Hoping for results soon... subbed.
alexonfire
Well-Known Member
wow all this stuff is so new to me. Really interesting info
Don Gin and Ton
Well-Known Member
sorry i was a bit late with the pics but heres the first plants root ball from the airpot
inside was just solid dense root
pics of the airpot vs normal will be up on sun/mon
inside was just solid dense root
pics of the airpot vs normal will be up on sun/mon
uncledav
Member
You really trying or did you just throw the root ball out back?
uncledav
Member
No sprouts from roots yet. But I started 72 seeds at the same time I did the root cuttings . My seedlings are 12 to 14 inches tall and kicking Early Girl x Hindu Kush
It would be nice if this did work. Good way to make lots of Clones of a proven Plant
tom__420
Well-Known Member
Which makes me wonder why people are wasting their time....
Even when you get sprouts it will only be a small sprout
With a clone or revegged plant it is a full blown plant, not a small seedling
I guess maybe people want to say that they did it but from the looks of it this is not a practical way of reproducing