A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions

IAm5toned said:
that timer will shit the bed, more than likely... its 50-50 odds


well on that particular timer, whats the max rating? if its more than 1000w than it might be best to use that same model...


IMHO, im a big fan of if it aint broke, dont fix it.
however the question here is will the timer handle the upgrade in wattage?do you have model numbers? i can usually find the specs pretty quickly. but

with timers, you usually get what you pay for.
if it looks and feels cheap, it probably wont last.
Click to expand...

The max wattage on the two I have used is 1700, or 1800. Somewhere around there. Ill check out the timers tonight, and see if I can get you model numbers from them.
 
Hey quick question for the Electrician (rather than send a pm)

I am currently converting my closet into a usable garden space. It just so happens that this closet also has our Breaker Box in it. I was wondering what kind of trouble i might cause by growing in there? Not so concerned about people coming in to see it, we haven't blown a breaker since we moved in which was sometime ago. My question is more along the lines of, what kind of humidity can it handle? what level humidity would be dangerous? i currently have tinfoil (probably going to go to Mylar here soon) all around the walls and covering the box (the box has some thin plastic that they used to line some of the exterior walls in my trailer, for insulation or something, placed over it under the foil) can this foil be a potential electrical fire risk with it over my box? the plastic in between was really only to help deter some moisture from making it in there, though i am fully aware its not a complete solution.

any tips would be appreciated, and in case you ask, moving it to another room is rather impossible at the moment, at least til my roommate comes back and gets all of his shit moved out.
 
Ok then! I want to begin by thanking you first, it's a great thing to have an electrician on our side (;! Thing is, I have to replace my old HID ( HPS ) lamps soon. My question is if I can keep the same wires from the balasts to the lamps. And if I could just unscrew the old lamps and screw in the new ones without changing the socket(or whatever the place where you screw in the bulb is called) for that lamp?
 
IAm5toned said:
it does matter.... it matters alot.

Im glad you asked me before you hooked it up....
because that most definitely needs to be a 60 amp contactor if your feeding it with a 60 amp breaker. or you could change the 60amp breaker for a 40... either way,
thats NEC... it means all components of a branch circuit shall share the same overcurrent rating.
shall = you must, there is no other way
Click to expand...
Thanks again brother :peace:
 
Alrighty, I got a question for ya. I am using a mixflow inline fan, it is wired to run on low speed at about 200 cfm. However, there is a part called a CVC or continuous ventilation control that I would like to add, this CVC allows the fan to run at 50 cfm. I want the fan to run at 200 cfm during the day when the timer is on and 50 cfm at night when the timer is off. Do i just set up two different timers, or is there an easier way to do this?
 
hey IAm5toned, first off i love that avatar...im baked out of my skull and i found myself watchin it for about 10 minutes :joint:

anyway, im lookin to add a 30 amp sub panel in my basement. my main box is full. ive done plenty of construction and electric work in my day but ive never really messed with a breaker box other that flippin the switch when the breaker trips. since i dont have an open slot for a new 30 amp breaker, can i just remove 2 15 amp breakers and replace them with a 30 amp breaker to feed my sub panel, and then re-route the shit that was on those 2 15 ampers to the sub panel? or does a 30 amp breaker require and 30 amp breaker slot...?

here's a couple pics of what im workin with for a main box. this house was built in the 40's by my great grandfather so the breaker box doesnt look all that great...
 

Attachments

  • box 1.jpg
    box 1.jpg
    91 KB · Views: 10
  • box 2.jpg
    box 2.jpg
    85.8 KB · Views: 9
KlosetKing said:
Hey quick question for the Electrician (rather than send a pm)

I am currently converting my closet into a usable garden space. It just so happens that this closet also has our Breaker Box in it. I was wondering what kind of trouble i might cause by growing in there? Not so concerned about people coming in to see it, we haven't blown a breaker since we moved in which was sometime ago. My question is more along the lines of, what kind of humidity can it handle? what level humidity would be dangerous? i currently have tinfoil (probably going to go to Mylar here soon) all around the walls and covering the box (the box has some thin plastic that they used to line some of the exterior walls in my trailer, for insulation or something, placed over it under the foil) can this foil be a potential electrical fire risk with it over my box? the plastic in between was really only to help deter some moisture from making it in there, though i am fully aware its not a complete solution.

any tips would be appreciated, and in case you ask, moving it to another room is rather impossible at the moment, at least til my roommate comes back and gets all of his shit moved out.
Click to expand...
the danger here is from the humidity condensing on the metal interior of the electrical panel during the cooldown period after lights out.
elimante the humidity, and you eliminate the problem. make sure your venting the xir regularly during lights out....
in my honest opinion, that is a bad place for your grow, as the space both in front of, underneath, and above the electrical panel is known as dedicated space. its supposed to be free and clear and whats known as readily accessible. this means at any given point you must be able to walk directly up to the panel, and be able to take the cover off without having to move anything, or use any special ladders or tools to access it. it's like this for safety reasons, if something is to go wrong in another part of the house, you want to be able to run to the panel and shut off the breaker. its rare that this situation occurs, but its required by law and common sense... i mean if you had a light start to burn, its gonna block your ability to shut it off from the source. something to think about.
 
youngblood said:
Ok then! I want to begin by thanking you first, it's a great thing to have an electrician on our side (;! Thing is, I have to replace my old HID ( HPS ) lamps soon. My question is if I can keep the same wires from the balasts to the lamps. And if I could just unscrew the old lamps and screw in the new ones without changing the socket(or whatever the place where you screw in the bulb is called) for that lamp?
Click to expand...
you should be able to replace the lamps only, as long as there is no physical damage to the sockets or wiring. those particular components are pretty durable and will last alot longer than the ballast itself.
 
kappainf said:
Alrighty, I got a question for ya. I am using a mixflow inline fan, it is wired to run on low speed at about 200 cfm. However, there is a part called a CVC or continuous ventilation control that I would like to add, this CVC allows the fan to run at 50 cfm. I want the fan to run at 200 cfm during the day when the timer is on and 50 cfm at night when the timer is off. Do i just set up two different timers, or is there an easier way to do this?
Click to expand...
im not familiar with CVC, however if you can provide some technical data about the fan, im sure i can tell you how to do it.
do you have a model number?
 
cmt1984 said:
hey IAm5toned, first off i love that avatar...im baked out of my skull and i found myself watchin it for about 10 minutes :joint:

anyway, im lookin to add a 30 amp sub panel in my basement. my main box is full. ive done plenty of construction and electric work in my day but ive never really messed with a breaker box other that flippin the switch when the breaker trips. since i dont have an open slot for a new 30 amp breaker, can i just remove 2 15 amp breakers and replace them with a 30 amp breaker to feed my sub panel, and then re-route the shit that was on those 2 15 ampers to the sub panel? or does a 30 amp breaker require and 30 amp breaker slot...?

here's a couple pics of what im workin with for a main box. this house was built in the 40's by my great grandfather so the breaker box doesnt look all that great...
Click to expand...
oh wow... you seriously need to upgrade that breaker box before you get to adding stuff. although im sure it has worked fine for almost 70 years, i cannot advise you to make any upgrades to that service untill you get a better panel in there. seriously.
the field wiring itself, inside the panel looks pretty solid, actually. but that panel is a fire trap... id be scared of running any continuous duty wattage through it.
 
IAm5toned said:
oh wow... you seriously need to upgrade that breaker box
Click to expand...

that was another thing i was thinking, but i figured all the wires were shit too, i didnt really look at it too hard. is replacing a panel something an experienced diy'er can do? or do you need an electrician to come and contact the power company and shit like that? thanks a million for the help, +rep for ya. :leaf:
 
IAm5toned said:
im not familiar with CVC, however if you can provide some technical data about the fan, im sure i can tell you how to do it.
do you have a model number?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response, the fan is a soler and palau TD-150, the CVC is the compatible one for the fan.
Soler and Palau CVC-150 Single Inlet Continuous Ventilation Control (CVC) for Soler and Palau TD-150 In Line Fan
 
I think I might just use two timers when the 200 cfm turns off, i will set the timer with the cvc to turn on. Unless you have a better idea, thanks again.

These S&P mix flow fans are the best I've ever seen, love em.

I would do something similar with a variable speed controller, but those controllers make the fans sound quite strange.

This new cab is going to be so sick, I can't wait for parts to start showing up. I'm addicted to building these cab things, new hobby I guess. Everytime I build a better one I give the older ones to friends. I just find it amazing how much you can do with these things, sky is the limit. I'm tempted to build a water cooled stealth cab with co2, someday I will.
 
cmt1984 said:
that was another thing i was thinking, but i figured all the wires were shit too, i didnt really look at it too hard. is replacing a panel something an experienced diy'er can do? or do you need an electrician to come and contact the power company and shit like that? thanks a million for the help, +rep for ya. :leaf:
Click to expand...
yeah, an electrician is definitely in order here.
more than liekly you might have to coordinate a power shutoff to do it with the power company, but that really depends on your particular service. if there is a disconnect outside, you can kill the panel from there, if not, you have to call the power company.
 
kappainf said:
I think I might just use two timers when the 200 cfm turns off, i will set the timer with the cvc to turn on. Unless you have a better idea, thanks again.

These S&P mix flow fans are the best I've ever seen, love em.

I would do something similar with a variable speed controller, but those controllers make the fans sound quite strange.

This new cab is going to be so sick, I can't wait for parts to start showing up. I'm addicted to building these cab things, new hobby I guess. Everytime I build a better one I give the older ones to friends. I just find it amazing how much you can do with these things, sky is the limit. I'm tempted to build a water cooled stealth cab with co2, someday I will.
Click to expand...

one timer, and a single pole, double throw relay (formC) timer throws the relay, which would kick on the 200cfm, when timer shuts off, relay closes and activates CVC...
if you need a diagram let me know.
relay would be cheaper than another timer, hands down..... simpler as well.
 
sound advice for sure ty for the quick input. i feared that the humidity was gunna be one of the main concerns. as for it not being a wise spot, trust me iam 100% with you on that, but like i said its gunna be a few weeks at the very least before i can go to the other identical closet (minus the box). i figure even if all i do is some vegging for now and get it all moved before flower i might be ok. as for the humidty i dont think its gunna be an issue, i have removed the front doors to the closet, and laid one sideways along the bottom, effectively blocking off the bottom half of the closet (light is hung low so it is also below this block) but the top is left completely open for ventilation. in effect its set to where it has one door on instead of 2 and half of the doorway unblocked for ariflow. this should probably keep my humidity fairly low, or at least to the same level as the rest of the house correct?

thanks again for the great tips!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top