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jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
everyone is going to tell you to provide pictures, more specifics on what the soil you bought from the store was, is she in a pot or buried in the ground?

Distilled water should be fine, as rain water should be pretty much the same
you might want to pH adjust it to 6.5 though maybe

MY QUESTION:
Yeah so temp now is 85/86
I hung them from the screen that came with my pc grow box and will probably move it into there for a bit
But I just want to know if 85/86 is too hot and if it will hurt potency (i don't care if it prolongs drying time, I guess I hope it doesn't shorten it too much though)
 

Bonzi Lighthouse

Well-Known Member
Here is what I asked.
So got off early and was in the City so I picked up 1 - 4 x 2 and 4 - 1 x 2, 24W T5 HO 6500K lights. I will be using these to set up a veg/mother/Clone partation in my Cabinet. Allocated partition = 28"w x 23" d x 36" h. I plan to veg 12" - 18". How would you place the 4 x 2 light and the 4 - 1 x 2? Is there room for 2 mothers?
No i dont know what you mean ????????.
I never ignore anyone.
 

YOUNG BUCK

Well-Known Member
everyone is going to tell you to provide pictures, more specifics on what the soil you bought from the store was, is she in a pot or buried in the ground?

Distilled water should be fine, as rain water should be pretty much the same
you might want to pH adjust it to 6.5 though maybe

MY QUESTION:
Yeah so temp now is 85/86
I hung them from the screen that came with my pc grow box and will probably move it into there for a bit
But I just want to know if 85/86 is too hot and if it will hurt potency (i don't care if it prolongs drying time, I guess I hope it doesn't shorten it too much though)

GROWFAQ INFO.


Contributed by glass joe:

Commercial growers take the colas from the plant and manicure them before drying. They usually dry them on a line, upside-down, which is fine.

However, usually airflow is forced, and temps too high, humidity too low. As soon as the buds are considered dry (usually a few days), it is sold. The reason for this behavior is the fact they are, as I said, commercial growers and in a constant hurry to exchange their buds for cash. Every minute counts and they don't want to 'waste' the space or the time needed for drying and curing. This results in harsh, grassy tasting weed that lacks the full-bodied flavor and smooth stone of properly dried and cured bud. To do it right:

At harvest-time all you have to do is cut the plant as low as possible and hang the whole thing upside down to dry on a line. The room you use to dry should be the about the same size you grew in (if not the same room). The humidity should remain a constant 50-60%. Too high and buds will mold, too low and they dry too fast and taste bad. Temperature should be around 65-68 degrees, wherever possible. Make sure the room is dark, as light degrades THC.

All kinds of processes, like the transport of sugars inside the plant still take place, even when you cut it down. These processes will slowly come to an end while the drying progresses, but are the main factor for the end-taste of your smoke. That is the first reason why you don't want to quick-dry your weed. The second reason is the way that a plant dries. Plants are made up of cells and, as we all know, cells contain mainly water. Exposed to air, the (dying) plant's outer cells will dry out first but the above-mentioned processes will still transfer water from the inner cells to the dryer outer cells, thus causing the plant to dry equally all over. By removing the stalk and cutting off the individual colas, you prevent this natural process by taking away the extra moisture that would be drawn from the stem to the leaves and bud. Got it? Good! Moving on...

Make sure you hang the plants so that they do not touch each other (invites mold). With constant temp and humidity, the plants should be ready for manicuring in 3-4 weeks. At this time trim colas from the main stalk, and trim large and medium fan leaves (save them for making hash), leaving most of the smaller leaves sticking out of the bud in tact. Hang them up again and for a day or two, until 'popcorn' dry. The stems should snap when you bend them, and the bud should be dry, but not brittle. Now for the curing...

Trim all remaining leaf (save for hashmaking) tight to the buds, and trim smaller buds from larger stems. Store them airtight; air at this point degrades THC. Note- ziplock bags are not airtight! You could use buckets with an airtight lid like used for food and sauces and such, but the best containers are those glass jars with the rubber seal and latch. Just put as much bud in it as possible using light pressure. The point is to fill it as much as possible, so not too much air remains in the container. The less air, the better. To be safe, check them the next day to make sure it's still dry (did not 'sweat'). Any excess moisture at this point will invite mold. If it did sweat and is moist (soft) again, lay the bud out on something other than newspaper and put in a dry place to get the last water out.

Repack and place the container in a cool, dark place, like a refrigerator. Note- fridges have high humidity so they must be absolutely airtight.
The longer it sits (up to around a month, maybe longer in the fridge) the better it gets, both in taste and potency. At around the month mark, you can move it to the freezer to almost stop the aging and curing process. Once you've got some buds stored in the freezer, you have a private stash that will last a long time. If you've got the patience to wait, the smoke will be sweet and smooth. The high will be mellow, and longer lasting. If you grew enough to last you a while, then after a few harvests you will be able to have properly cured buds at your disposal, with no downtime waiting for the next batch to cure!

If you're not in a hurry to sell your crop you owe it to your head to wait the extra time and have great tasting, very potent bud! Curing is the only way to make harvested bud more potent, so try it, you won't be disappointed!
 

immaking3

Well-Known Member
was wondering how much i should water for my plants 2nd water still havnt sprouted,and if i spread the soil put a little pressure will this make thesoil to compresed for them to sprout if not how long will it take usually for a plant to sprout?
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
Hey whats up man I live in northern ontario and its still kinda chilly out no frost though, its also pretty windy so i have my plants started outside at 3 weeks old in a margerine container and a 2L bottle covering for wind resistence/greenhouse but i went to go check on em this morning and it looks like its only making them wilt n shit one was even broken at the bottom of the stem and flat on the ground... any suggestions?????
Take em inside, or start over

i Am going to put my seedlings straigh into soil after 12 hours of pre soaking, should i pre water the soil as well?
soil should merely be moist, IMO just planting em is best

I've had the best of luck with my girls until now. All of the sudden, first the stems turned red, now the whole upper leaves are red. huh. any advice?
without lots more info, I'd have to say start over, try again???

It's about a month old. yes its indoors.
I haven't fed it anything but water. I started with some old top soil my had in the garage and had it by my window sill in the beginning, then i decided to make a box. 4x2x4 foot box painted white on the inside. It was in that soil in a starter cup under the lights for almost the whole month until a few days ago i put them in a 10 inch pot with miracle grow.i had the lights real close in the beginning and i think that's maybe why it burned. Seeing as though the others aren't burnt, but it spread a little after i raised it so it leads me to question what it really is. And i didn't know what the top soil's ph was, but i heard all MG is like 6.8 or something and my towns water is slightly acidic so i think it balances it out?
Ahh the science of cannabis. I wish they taught a class in school. :D
MG ph is generally way off as low as 5.5 depending, are they getting better, getting worse, what does new growth look like???


Here is what I asked.
Way more than is needed for mothers but will work, just put em above and yes they should cover 2 mothers

was wondering how much i should water for my plants 2nd water still havnt sprouted,and if i spread the soil put a little pressure will this make thesoil to compresed for them to sprout if not how long will it take usually for a plant to sprout?

Don't water seeds, just mist the top of the soil to keep it "barely" moist, Don't mess with the soil, can sprout in as little as 2 days or as long as 10, depending
 

Humboldt14

Well-Known Member
i started my seeds in 1 inch rockwool cubes then once the root came out the bottom i put the 1 inch cubes on 6 inch rockwool blocks. i have only waterd once afetr they were moved to the 6 inch cubes a few days ago. They have looked great until a few hours ago and started to get a little droopy. whats going on?
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
i started my seeds in 1 inch rockwool cubes then once the root came out the bottom i put the 1 inch cubes on 6 inch rockwool blocks. i have only waterd once afetr they were moved to the 6 inch cubes a few days ago. They have looked great until a few hours ago and started to get a little droopy. whats going on?
they droop when they are under watered

they droop when they are over watered

difference is when underwatered the stems tend to droop as well

all I got without pic's
 

Humboldt14

Well-Known Member
so if the stem is leaning a little including the leaves probably needs water?. I have the 6 inch bocks on a 4x4 flood table under a 600 HPS and i have not watered in few days trying to figure out a watering schedule so i dont over water them.
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
so if the stem is leaning a little including the leaves probably needs water?. I have the 6 inch bocks on a 4x4 flood table under a 600 HPS and i have not watered in few days trying to figure out a watering schedule so i dont over water them.
that is correct and what you just experienced is the best way to learn to water
 

scot12

Member
as you can see in the picture the other leaves aren't getting yellow. I have more seedlings that look normal to me. Maybe it was just the leaf?
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
as you can see in the picture the other leaves aren't getting yellow. I have more seedlings that look normal to me. Maybe it was just the leaf?
one of the biggest differences between new growers and experienced growers is that the experienced growers will get rid of genetically weak plants, where a new grower will try everything to save them.

Now we all know seeds are not cheap but why waste time on a plant that will be nothing but trouble thru the whole grow

and I'm not saying this is the case with yours but I'm pointing out that if this is the only one doing this then you can get rid of it or nurture it (which will be a learning experience if nothing else)
 

YOUNG BUCK

Well-Known Member
Thanks..man.

GROWFAQ.


Added by: MisterIto Last edited by: 10k I use and recommend the single probe Rapidtest moisture meter. It is available from most of the major garden centers for under $20. This meter reads consistently without using batteries. It is invaluable for determining watering schedules, which vary tremendously from plant to plant, overwatered conditions, and uneven moisture distribution within the container. Rapidtest also sells a shorter, two probe model which should be avoided. Make this investment, monitor conditions regularly, and reap the rewards at harvest.

Growers that allow their medium to dry out to the point at which the leaves "droop" are reducing their final yields and quality. The medium contains a certain amount of salts that dramatically increase in concentration as the water dissipates. The roots can be repeatedly stressed going through this technique called "wet/dry cycle". The plant is being deprived of moisture that would be available to fuel additional growth and suffers.

The moisture meter's probe should be inserted to various depths to accurately assess conditions. The Rapidtest has a 1-4 scale on the meter, but what is imporatant is relative moisture. The lower potion of the medium in the container should not be so consistently and constantly moist as to "bury the needle" at the top of the scale. The middle depths of the container should be kept in the upper half section of the meter's range and the top should be allowed to dry out to the lower half of the range before rewatering.

This is far more accurate to the lifting and guessing game played by many. The weight of the container does not indicate where the moisture is inside. A grower would never really know if things at the bottom were oversaturated without a probe to tell them. If the bottom is soaked and never dries out, the container feels "heavy" even though other areas may be quite dry. Many grower use large, tight grids of 3-5 gallon containers which can amount to 40-100+ containers. How could they use the lift and guess method, if they can hardly reach some of my plants just to water and prune them. It would be impossible and bad for their backs to use anything except a moisture meter. In other situations the plants are attached to fixed supports, such as SCROG or simply tied up prohibiting movement. There is no more accurate or versatile way to determine your watering schedule.

Added by ~shabang~:

I am one of those that plays the "lifting and guessing game" and I will always recommend that you use your sense to judge and understand your plants rather than trusting in a $8 Wal-mart toy.

If a grower has 40-100+ large containers then they are likely experienced and likely growing mostly the same crop. When you know your plant and your system you don't use a moisture meter. No serious grower that I've met personally does.

Moisture meters are fine for beginners IF you use multiple sample points in each pot. It's too easy to hit a pocket of perlite or just rub the sensor the wrong way. I'd rather judge by visual and tactile response rather than entrusting a wavering needle on an inaccurate meter. You know that when you lift up your container, is it wet? or is it dry?.

Y.B.
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
^^^ While I don't agree with the moistre meter part of that, the fact that wet/dry cycles are a bad thing is true

I prefer to teach folks how to read thier plants so they know what they are seeing, if you let em go just once till they start to droop you then are off to a good start at learning to read em and the more you pay attention to em and learn what they are telling you the more experienced you become
 

YOUNG BUCK

Well-Known Member
^^^ While I don't agree with the moistre meter part of that, the fact that wet/dry cycles are a bad thing is true

I prefer to teach folks how to read thier plants so they know what they are seeing, if you let em go just once till they start to droop you then are off to a good start at learning to read em and the more you pay attention to em and learn what they are telling you the more experienced you become

No its not all right/correct (the document). Plants should go throught a wet and dry cycle for best growth and just because that particular link states its bad its just their opinion.
Wet and dry cycles should be applied.
 

YOUNG BUCK

Well-Known Member
THANKS AND POSTED BY M+E ROSE.



Watering.

Water provides hydrogen for plant growth, and also carries nutrients throughout the plant in the transpiration stream. However, it is not true that the more water given a plant, the faster it will grow. Certainly, if a plant is consistently under-watered, its growth rate slows. However, lack of water does not limit photosynthesis until the soil in the pot is dry and the plant is wilting.
The amount of water, and how often to water, varies with the size of the plants and pots, soil composition, and the temperature, humidity, and circulation of the air, to name a few variables. But watering is pretty much a matter of common sense.
During germination, keep the soil surface moist. But once the seedling are established, let the top layer of soil dry out before watering again. This will eliminate any chance of stem rot. Water around the stems rather than on them. Seedlings are likely to fall over if watered roughly; use a hand sprinkler.

In general, when the soil about two inches deep feels dry, water so that the soil is evenly moist but not so much that water runs out the drainage holes and carries away the soil's nutrients. After a few trials, you will know approximately how much water the pots can hold. Marijuana cannot tolerate a soggy or saturated soil. Plants grown in constantly wet soil are slower-growing, usually less potent, and prone to attack from stem rot.

Over-watering as a common problem; it develops from consistently watering too often. When the plants are small, they transpire much less water. Seedlings in large pots need to be watered much less often than when the plants are large or are in small pots. A large pot that was saturated during germination may hold enough water for the first three weeks of growth. On the other hand, a six-foot plant in a six-inch pot may have to be watered every day. Always water enough to moisten all the soil. Don't just wet the surface layer.
Under-watering is less of a problem, since it is easily recognised. When the soil becomes too dry, the plant wilts. Plant cells are kept rigid by the pressure of their cell contents, which are mostly water. With the water gone, they collapse. First the bottom leaves droop, and the condition quickly works its way up the plant until the top lops over. If this happens, water immediately. Recovery is so fast, you can follow the movement of water up the stem as it fills and brings turgor to the leaves. A plant may survive a wilted condition of several days, but at the very least some leaves will drop.

Don't keep the pots constantly wet, and don't wait until the plant wilts. Let the soil go through a wet and dry cycle, which will aerate the soil and aid nutrient uptake. Most growers find that they need to water about once or twice a week.
When some soils get particularly dry, the water is not absorbed and runs down the sides and out the bottom of the pot. This may be a problem the first time you water the soil, or if you allow the soil to get very dry. To remedy, add a couple of drops of liquid detergent to a gallon of water. Detergent acts as a wetting agent and the water is absorbed more readily. First water each pot with about one cup of the solution. Allow the pots to stand for 15 minutes, then finish watering with the usual amount of pure water.
Use tepid water; it soaks into the soil more easily and will not shock the roots. Try to water during the plant's morning hours. Water from the top of the pot. If you do want to water from the bottom with trays (not recommended), place a layer of pebbles or gravel in the trays to insure drainage. Don't leaves the pots sitting in water until the pot is heavily saturated. The water displaces the soil's oxygen, and the plants grow poorly.

Tap water in some areas highly chlorinated, which does not seem to harm Cannabis; and many fine crops are raised with water straight from the tap. But chlorine could possibly affect the plants indirectly, by killing some beneficial micro-organisms in the soil. Chlorine also makes the water slightly acidic. However, neither effect is likely to be serious. Some growers have asked whether they should use pet-shop preparations that are sold to remove chlorine from water in fish tanks. These preparations generally add sodium, which removes the chlorine by forming sodium chloride (table salt). This solution does not harm the plants, although repeated use may make the soil too saline. Probably the best procedure is to simply allow the water to sit in an open container for a few days. The chlorine is introduced to water as the gas Cl2, which dissipates to the air. The water temperature also reaches a comfortable level for the plants.
Hard (alkaline) water contains a number of minerals (e.g., Ca++, Mg++, K+) which are essentially nutrients to the plants. Water softeners remove these minerals by replacing them with sodium, which forms slightly salty water. It is much better to water with hard water, because artificially softened water may prove harmful after some time. Occasionally, water may be acidic (sulphurous). Counteract this by mixing one teaspoon of hydrated lime per quart water and watering with the solution once a month.

Water and Potency.

We've seen no studies that have evaluated potency in relation to water. A few studies have mentioned the fact that plants that received less water were slightly more potent. Water stress has been practiced by several marijuana-growing cultures. In parts of India, watering is kept to a minimum during flowering.
To limit watering, water with the usual amounts but as infrequently as possible. To encourage good growth, yet keep watering to a minimum, wait until the plants are a few months old before you curtail watering. Give the plants their normal water and note the number of days before they begin to wilt. As the plants get larger, the water needs increase, but this generally stabilises by the time of flowering.

Y.B.
 

Yourztruly

Active Member
Hey everyone,

This is my first post although I have viewed/read different posts religiously over the past year.

I just have a question in regards to my home-made, cheaply built grow tent. Hopefully this is the right place to ask this question...

This is my first grow and I decided to build my own grow tent made out of 1/2" PVC and a generic blue tarp. I did however completely cover the inside of the tarp in tin-foil for reflective purposes. Does anyone have any advice on how to seal this grow tent? I did not use a zipper for the door, I used velcro. I know I know, a zipper would have been much better but neither I, nor my wife can sew very good so I didn't want to attempt it. I cut the tarp on one side so I can basically just open it from left to right, like a door. When I close the "door" I attach it to the side(s) and top using velcro.

I know that this is not the best way to seal the tent but I am just wondering if anyone has any advice or recommendations. ANY advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also, just to note, I installed a 2" PVC 90 degree elbow at the top/back of the grow tent to let the heat escape a little more. I do understand that this will also increase the amount of smell that the grow tent will put out... Smell is not a HUGE problem for me, but I would like to contain and eliminate as much smell as I can. Having said that, I'm not sure if installing a carbon filter (bought or homemade) would be worth it as there are many air holes throughout my grow tent.

Sorry for the long post/question! As I previously stated, ANY advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Cheers
 

YOUNG BUCK

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone,

This is my first post although I have viewed/read different posts religiously over the past year.

I just have a question in regards to my home-made, cheaply built grow tent. Hopefully this is the right place to ask this question...

This is my first grow and I decided to build my own grow tent made out of 1/2" PVC and a generic blue tarp. I did however completely cover the inside of the tarp in tin-foil for reflective purposes. Does anyone have any advice on how to seal this grow tent? I did not use a zipper for the door, I used velcro. I know I know, a zipper would have been much better but neither I, nor my wife can sew very good so I didn't want to attempt it. I cut the tarp on one side so I can basically just open it from left to right, like a door. When I close the "door" I attach it to the side(s) and top using velcro.

I know that this is not the best way to seal the tent but I am just wondering if anyone has any advice or recommendations. ANY advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also, just to note, I installed a 2" PVC 90 degree elbow at the top/back of the grow tent to let the heat escape a little more. I do understand that this will also increase the amount of smell that the grow tent will put out... Smell is not a HUGE problem for me, but I would like to contain and eliminate as much smell as I can. Having said that, I'm not sure if installing a carbon filter (bought or homemade) would be worth it as there are many air holes throughout my grow tent.

Sorry for the long post/question! As I previously stated, ANY advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Cheers

First off just stick to velcro strips for sealing the cab door and you can always throw a bed sheet over the lot for extra piece of mind but you dont need it air tight just dark when its lights off time and there is nothing you can do about the smell as it will stink whatever you do.
 
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