Coco Growers Unite!

jberry

Well-Known Member
You shouldnt use hardly any ammonical nitrogen either...

Hydro nutrients rarely have more than 3-6% of their total Nitrogen in ammonical form... Over 32% of Dyna Grows total Nitrogen is ammonical nitrogen, which is why it is really a soil nutrient, but since they arent using any Urea based Nitrogen they can get away with calling it a soil and hydro nutrient.

If it contains any Urea based Nitrogen at all, then it is designed for soil and should only be used for soil.
 

buraka415

Active Member
yikes. so now i think i should maybe flush the coco cus i put nitrex in as a N boost. 5 - 7ml/gal. did this abt 3x now. what do you think Jberry?
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
Yo berry i shoudlnt have any problems settin up a non recirculating drip with canna line should i?
It should be fine but it also depends on the emitters you use and your water source ect... If you do get clogged emitters then you can run clean filtered water threw the line immediately afterwards... just keep the plain water in a 5 gal. bucket and transfer the pump into that and run a 1/2 gal. of plain water threw the line and return the pump to your nutrient tank... Obviously that is a pain in the ass so a better suggestion and what I would do is use House & Gardens Drip Clean with every feeding and that will not only keep your drip lines totally clear but it will also keep your plants from getting "nutrients lockouts"... You only use 0.4 mL per gallon so a bottle goes a long way... The only problem is: they say that if youre going to use Drip Clean that it should be used from the very start of the grow or you may risk burning your roots which could lead to additional problems... I have had friends start using it in the middle of their grow without any problems though.

Recently in the last year, I actually started to use Drip Clean for occasional cleaning... For cleaning the tough stuff like the inside of your pumps or hoses, clone machines, ect, ect...To clean these hard to clean items I pour a ton of hydrogen peroxide threw my pump and hose, shake it around in there and let it sit for a bit, then I flushed super hot water threw it and the water comes out a dirty yellow/brown but when I use Drip Clean it doesnt come out yellow... it comes out like dark black sludge water! -And the stuff works even better then CRL or Goo-Gone, ect, for cleaning my EZ-Clone 120.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
yikes. so now i think i should maybe flush the coco cus i put nitrex in as a N boost. 5 - 7ml/gal. did this abt 3x now. what do you think Jberry?
Is that product Urea based?
If so, unfortunately it is extremely difficult to leach/flush out of both the medium and the plant itself... The good news is that you have already used it 3 times and your plants are okay... having said that, I wouldn't bother with flushing or worrying much about it. Just dont keep using it and it will get flushed on its own as you continue to water.

Over the next few years I predict to see a lot more research going into nutrients designed for growing indoors... different variables need to be considered when designing nutrients and their are several factors being over looked at the moment but more and more research is proving that a lot of the formulas are less then ideal for: High demand fast growing crops, short crops, container crops, enriched Co2 crops, high intensity lights, low intensity/clf lighting and even RH, high/low temps., and grow methods like lollipopping and sog, scrog, would ideally require slightly different ratios of specific types of Nitrogen and other adjustments... Right now all the formulas are all based on 1950's data for the most part and the bulk of it that is outdoor/greenhouse data... So much has changed and upgraded in the last ten years that we really need new research done and specifically indoor cannabis research!
 

kevb123

Well-Known Member
hey! pretty newb question but what is the best size pot to use with coco? does it make a lot of difference? thx
 

JRTokin

Active Member
Hey Everyone!

Just starting another grow soon and have a couple of quick Q's.

So im going to be useing a soilless mix of:

Coco - 70% Worm casts - 30% and perlite - 10%

Going to be useing canna coco with biobizz nutes (doing 100% organic grow).
Just wondered if anyone has any experience doing this kind of grow and if so what feed schedule did you use? Im aware that Biobizz have there own schedule but it seems this is just for allmix and soil.

As im going to be adding the worm castings will this affect things?

Thanks for any feedback
 

ZEN MASTER

Well-Known Member
Yo berry i shoudlnt have any problems settin up a non recirculating drip with canna line should i?
what up man ? actually i have my set up like that . i have four screens,with twelve pots under each, and each screen is fitted with a manifold that consist of 1 five foot 3/4 inch hose plugged at the end. twelve 1/4 inch connectors along the hose. next i cut twelve pieces of 1/4 inch hose, at 18-20 inches each, and connect them to the connectors. next, at the end of each 18-20 inch 1/4 inch hose i have a 1/4 inch T connector. finally i cut two 4 inch pieces of 1/4 inch hose, attach them to the T connector, and then attach a drip stake to each end. stick the stakes on both sides of the stalk , and there you go, get you a pump(at least 200gpm) and a good container. and you are good, not only do you cut alot of time off of feeding, you also insure that all of the plants are getting a equal amount of food.hope that helps. if you need me to go into more detail just let me know, i'll hit you tomorrow, hope that helps though.


PEACE!!!
-ZEN-
 

WeSmkDro

Well-Known Member
Zen im gonna go read your journal in a few. that REALLY helps! i would def like to know more about how your doing that cause if it really works for you then maybe i should do the same thing with my grow. I've been doing the hand watering and any help switching to this drip system would be appreciated. Ill pm , and add you.

Dro
 

buraka415

Active Member
i actually do have some pics of a few leaves that are having problems. Think its Cal/mag & possibly Potassium or Phosphorous. ha! I dunno actually, hence I should go post in the MJ problems forum I suppose :P Thing is, most of the canopy/room shot are all Blue Dream, but the few plants that are showing these problems, are these few Sour Diesel's that I have (see here > https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/347328-why-these-deficiencies-sour-d.html)

everything is 100% canna coco. Following their A/B, Rhizo regimen right now. Been using some Plant Amp by Cutting Edge, to add some Ca. Actually used some Uncle John's Blend that I have to help Potassium. I've used molasses a few times, but didn't tonight. I will be adding some PK 13/14 soon, and I guess lollipopping them perhaps in about 5 days. I think I might leave the BigGirl just untouched, and let her go. I'm definitely tempted to leave a few others untouched, and see how they yield.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
looks like a jungle ;) Looks like you could pull a full garbage bag full of lower branches out of there!

I would get in there and remove all that lower growth asap if it were me... those lower branches are just stealing/wasting energy and the sooner you remove them the better off you will be imo... it will improve your yield, density,quality, help with pest control, molds, air circulation, and light penetration just to name a few benefits.

they look pretty good from what i can see in the pics... it may just be the photo but it looks like the blue dream could be just a tad darker in color but like i said pictures can be very deceiving... if they are slightly pale then just increase your A/B base nutes a little.

the sour d leaves look dark and have a calcium deficiency... the leaves turning dark green is actually one of the symptoms of a calcium deficiency, along with the tan spots and leaf edges.

potassium competes with calcium, and calcium and magnesium compete with each other.... perhaps the extra potassium from the uncle johns blend is locking out your calcium.

>Are you using cal/mag or magical?

Because you wont get all the extra calcium you need from the plant amp alone... plant amp is a good source of calcium and organic acids but the percentage of calcium in it is really low compared to most calcium supplements... cutting edge puts the majority of their calcium in their Micro formula... in fact the Micro has like 5 times as much calcium as plant amp does. Plus if you are adding calcium and not magnesium then you may run into lockouts.... thats why they always come together because the calcium and magnesium compete with each other they need to be supplied in proper ratios... if you add one and not the other then you may throw the ratio off enough to cause a lockout.
 

buraka415

Active Member
OK, yeh - remember I PM'd you about the lollipopping. I was always told about 10 - 14 days into flowering is when to remove the branches. It's only 5 - 6 days into flowering, but hell, why not, I'll get in there tonight and pull them. So i measured the tallest ones in the room (of course its the SourD), and they aren't even 3'.. so I think I made this mistake a LONG time ago (at least I was told this), that I removed too many branches. Since then, I've always gotten sooooooo apprehensive when lollipopping. You would go up how far, 6 - 8"? more?

the BD could be darker, I thought maybe this was from a Nitrogen deficiency, something else you and I talked about. That's why I was hitting it with Nitrex for those few feedings. I've since stopped that.. but yeh, they do look a little light green. I need to raise the lights some I think. thought maybe some light colored-ness was from bleaching. I've been using A/B at 15ml/gal

I JUST used the UJB nute last night for the first time, that was only the first time its been used.

I have some Micro here, I could start using some of that. I think in Bloom they drop their recommended dosage down to 8ml/gal or 5ml/gal. And nope, I haven't been adding any Mg.. I gotta pick this up ASAP.

any good cal/mg products? MagiCal?
 

m0use

Member
#1.jpg#4.jpg#3.jpgl4.jpgl8.jpgl5.jpgl6.jpgl9.jpgl3.jpgl2.jpgl7.jpg
All in coco :] a little perlite in there maybe 10% all CFL grown curently just starting 12-12 day 3 week 7 . 8th & 9th inter node----https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/347124-help-please-all-advice-welcomed.html
 

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buraka415

Active Member
@m0use... wait, you are on day 3 of 12/12? or day 3 of week 7 into 12/12?

what size container is that? any reason you didnt come all the way up to the top with the medium?
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
yea lollipoping too early may increase the stretch a little bit and that is probably why "they" say to wait until week 2 to do the lollipoping because by then the stretching is at least partially done... by the look of your plants i would say go ahead and start pruning at least the branches that you know are garbage.

For a sog grow, I usually decide what to prune off by just looking at the branch in question and asking my self if the top of that branch is or will be tall enough to make it up into the canopy with the main tops... Anything that isnt as tall or at least close to as tall as the main colas on the plant should be removed.... sometimes you have a long branch coming from the bottom of the plant that can get good lighting, but only to its top few nodes and the rest of the lower nodes are obviously going to be in the shade, so for that situation i decide if that branch is going to be thick/sturdy enough to hold some weight later in life, and if it gets my approval then i remove all of the lower nodes leaving just the top 3-5 to flower... I pull off all the nodes that I think will end up in the shade when the plants get deeper into flower... I do this on every branch on the plant.

To put it simple: remove all nodes and branches that will eventually end up in the shade but try to leave the leafs whenever possible... usually the bottom 1/3 of the plant is a pretty good rule of thumb but every strain is different.

The paling is likely from bleaching as you said... Blue Dream fades/bleaches from the light way easier then any other strain I've ever grown... If you are using the A/B at 15ml per gal. then youre good... dont raise it any higher. What I suggest instead is lowering it to about 12-13ml per gal. and adding aprox. 2ml per gal. of Cutting Edge Solutions "Micro" formula... you say you already have some so I would use that until you get some Magical or Calmag plus (they are the same thing element wise but magical smells much better), -then when you get the cal/mag, start using it at 3ml per gal. and add it to your water before the other nutes (150-250 ppm's of cal/mag is the goal)... if you use the CES Micro, then be sure to also add that first before the other nutes. You can use the micro and the cal/mag if you just use like 1ml per gal of the micro and 3ml per gal. of cal/mag.... keep your A/B base nutes below 13ml per gal. whenever you are adding supplements/additives to them.

OK, yeh - remember I PM'd you about the lollipopping. I was always told about 10 - 14 days into flowering is when to remove the branches. It's only 5 - 6 days into flowering, but hell, why not, I'll get in there tonight and pull them. So i measured the tallest ones in the room (of course its the SourD), and they aren't even 3'.. so I think I made this mistake a LONG time ago (at least I was told this), that I removed too many branches. Since then, I've always gotten sooooooo apprehensive when lollipopping. You would go up how far, 6 - 8"? more?

the BD could be darker, I thought maybe this was from a Nitrogen deficiency, something else you and I talked about. That's why I was hitting it with Nitrex for those few feedings. I've since stopped that.. but yeh, they do look a little light green. I need to raise the lights some I think. thought maybe some light colored-ness was from bleaching. I've been using A/B at 15ml/gal

I JUST used the UJB nute last night for the first time, that was only the first time its been used.

I have some Micro here, I could start using some of that. I think in Bloom they drop their recommended dosage down to 8ml/gal or 5ml/gal. And nope, I haven't been adding any Mg.. I gotta pick this up ASAP.

any good cal/mg products? MagiCal?
 

buraka415

Active Member
rock on.

i was just thinking about this a few mins ago. in terms of nute add to rezzy, this is the order: any Ca product (right now its been Plant Amp, but next it would be Micro). so Ca/Micro, then Rhizo (for another week in bloom), then A, then B. Very soon, as documented here and b/t our discussions, next will be the PK 13/14.. That gets add "where" in that lineup?

Ca/Mg/Micro, A, B, (since the rhizo will go away soon, where does the PK fit into the nute addition lineup?) does it go in after A/B? before? etc.

thanks JB!
 

m0use

Member
day 3 of 12/12 week 7-8 overall :] Sorry for the confusion The container is 1.5 gallon ... and the coco brick I used said it would fill 3 gallons, But didn't quite make it I got jipped :D haha I will be transplanting these one last time in a week or so .. hell maybe tomorrow :]

Note: these are relatively smaller style plant by genetics it seems. maybe half inches between nodes ...8 inches at 7th node on one.... 9 inches @ 8th node on other. I don't expect them to get much more than 2 feet if that :] so overall very short plant by nature I also have reburied these up to the cotyledons(sp?) so that took away maybe 2-3 inches as well. Thanks for the feedback !
 

buraka415

Active Member
went back and removed stuff underneath - i get the feeling I may need to do more. I'm just so apprehensive on going too far up.

Lollipopped-2.jpgLollipopped-1.jpg
 
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