Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

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Wetdog

Well-Known Member
LOL ... If the feed store had told me that ($5/bag), I would have loaded up the truck!

No problem as I use the same mix for my container veggies as mj.

I'm trying to grow mycorrhizae in ~90 gallons of mix in 5 gal buckets with Alliums (Garlic and Shallots). Going to do ~35 gal or so of re-cycled mix with spring onions.

We'll see how it goes.

Wet
 
barry bongwater

barry bongwater

Member
UB, sorry if this is redundant but I think many of us would benefit if you elaborated on plant's lighting requirements (i know i would). When I think about it, it makes total sense that a plant (from seed or clone) reaches a state of foliage and root developement where it is ready to accept lighting, along with other factors (like nutrients), at higher levels. Intuition tells me that this would continue thru bloom until slightly after the stretch ends, say a week or so, and THEN require less light. Intuition tells me that this would be similiar to the decline in intensity in the sun that occurs in nature somewhere around 5-6 weeks after the summer solstice. Mathematically, the plants growth capacity would seem to be an increasing function that flatlines a month or so into bloom and then becomes a declining function. In otherwords, the plants light/nutrient limits change during its lifecycle and its up to us growers to 'see' this and support the plant accordingly. Am I on the right track UB or am i full of sh#$t? :)

Thanks. Keep up the good work.
 
Short Bus

Short Bus

Active Member
It actually branches as I said before. But, you got a good handle on what makes a plant tick. In the end, the only thing that matters is the production and maintenance of your foliage and root system.
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Yeah, that's what I meant by lateral tips. Your way of saying it's a little easier to follow, though. Basically, you get spiderweb roots instead of long skinny roots. Which is good. :-P
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Without getting techie, the light saturation point is that point where diminishing returns kicks in with too much light, and usually results in the bleaching (destruction) of chlorophyll and regressive production of carbos. Do a Google search.
 
H

Hemlock

Well-Known Member
I been following this thread for a bit now.
Thanks Uncle Ben. I was raised on a farm, we did some row cropping, and I have to say everything you have said about nutes is so true. growing any other crop you don't spend near the money on nutes as you do with MJ. I knew all that but fell victim to the AN type nutes and have spent WAY to much.

If I may, what is your opinion of GH 3 part. Its the cheapest of all the nute lines. I have a shit load of it so I will use it till its gone and then go to some home depot, walmart nutes and see how they do. Also my tap water is 160 ppm, I'm thinking it would be ok to use this water without running thur and R/O system am I right or wrong UB. Also could you recommend a walmart nute to use.
Thanks
Semper fi
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hemlock said:
I been following this thread for a bit now.
Thanks Uncle Ben. I was raised on a farm, we did some row cropping, and I have to say everything you have said about nutes is so true. growing any other crop you don't spend near the money on nutes as you do with MJ. I knew all that but fell victim to the AN type nutes and have spent WAY to much.
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Hard lessons learned. Look at the profits potential for these guys - if only 10% of every crop of noobs buys into the AN, canna, humboldt, products, say 3 bottles a noob, it adds up. There are alot of great foods out there that don't cost much. I buy Plantex foods at about $1.00/lb. It's so water soluble you can look at it and it dissolves. :-P

If I may, what is your opinion of GH 3 part.
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Never used it before. What's the NPK values? I'm not going to fall for anything other than a one part like Dyna-Gro, Walmart. They make a 18-5-9, something like that, that is fine. Needs Mg if you don't have dolomite lime in you mix.

Its the cheapest of all the nute lines. I have a shit load of it so I will use it till its gone and then go to some home depot, walmart nutes and see how they do. Also my tap water is 160 ppm, I'm thinking it would be ok to use this water without running thur and R/O system am I right or wrong UB. Also could you recommend a walmart nute to use.
Thanks
Semper fi
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I've used tap water that is hard as hell, TDS like 650 ppm. It's fine. 160 ppm is quite soft.

Good luck,
UB
 
H

Hemlock

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
Hard lessons learned. Look at the profits potential for these guys - if only 10% of every crop of noobs buys into the AN, canna, humboldt, products, say 3 bottles a noob, it adds up. There are alot of great foods out there that don't cost much. I buy Plantex foods at about $1.00/lb. It's so water soluble you can look at it and it dissolves. :-P



Never used it before. What's the NPK values? I'm not going to fall for anything other than a one part like Dyna-Gro, Walmart. They make a 18-5-9, something like that, that is fine. Needs Mg if you don't have dolomite lime in you mix.



I've used tap water that is hard as hell, TDS like 650 ppm. It's fine. 160 ppm is quite soft.

Good luck,
UB
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thanks for taking the time Uncle Ben.
GH 3 part Brown Pink Green
Brown 5-0-1
Pink 0-5-4
Green 2-1-6
Does that translate into
7-6-11???

Where do you buy your plantex? at a national retailer or local Nusery??
Thanks Again!!
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
Hard lessons learned. Look at the profits potential for these guys - if only 10% of every crop of noobs buys into the AN, canna, humboldt, products, say 3 bottles a noob, it adds up. There are alot of great foods out there that don't cost much. I buy Plantex foods at about $1.00/lb. It's so water soluble you can look at it and it dissolves. :-P



Never used it before. What's the NPK values? I'm not going to fall for anything other than a one part like Dyna-Gro, Walmart. They make a 18-5-9, something like that, that is fine. Needs Mg if you don't have dolomite lime in you mix.



I've used tap water that is hard as hell, TDS like 650 ppm. It's fine. 160 ppm is quite soft.

Good luck,
UB
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On the Dyna-Gro, you've never seen problems arise from having everything together in one bottle? Sulfur and calcium together in the same bottle is generally not good in my experience.
 
surfhead

surfhead

Well-Known Member
Hey ub ihave 2 ultraviolets going right now they are autos. Breeder says 70 days, i have done a few and they were 70 -75 days start to finish, my question is iam on day 56 and one is showing me its done or days away the other is on track for 70-75 days,ive kept it green all the way threw this time (big difference ) what would make this get done so early (should i leave it go or will growth be minimal the last 10 -14 days

BIG DIFFERENCE KEEPING IT GREEN NOT YELLOW AND DYING !!
 
kingofqueen

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben

I am one of "those" who was lured by Organics . But am learning that I have been mislead . I saw some interesting info in here on Synthetic and Organic salts . Am I understanding correctly that there is going to be no adverse affect on the soil food web ,whether inorganic or organic salts are used ? I have been using Age Old Organics liquid grow and bloom , they seem to be a good company and not canna promoted . I'm wanting to use my Jacks that I have never used . I guess what I'm needing is reasssurance on the thought of which type fert to using and organics not really making a difference . I could care less about organics , I just want to give my plants what they need . I do find Age Old to be pretty akaline and am constantly adjusting nutrient PH .

On a side note I saw you mention somewhere that Safer brand products are no good .I had sprayed one of my gurls with Safer mitecide (sulper based) damn that stuff fryed my plant . Last grow I used Bayer's line Natria for powdery mildew and it burned some but nowhere near as bad . What's a good mitecide thats easy to obtain but mor suited for MJ . What I noticed about the Safer mitecide was it had a ton of spreader sticker in it . I'm not going to use the rest of it till I atleast dilute it .That shit is so thick it totally crusted over some of my lower buds .Yes I had to spray in flowering by the way . I didnt have no choice .
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
I have used Floramiticide/Avid with success. I spray with Neem Tree Oil water once a week too.
RiddleMe gave me a great one for Powdery Mildew. 1 part Milk to 9 parts water. It worked great when I had it last spring.
When I started using Jack's I noticed it has a pH of 6.2 to 6.4 so no wonder why it works so well.
Daniels
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
kingofqueen said:
Uncle Ben

I am one of "those" who was lured by Organics . But am learning that I have been mislead . I saw some interesting info in here on Synthetic and Organic salts . Am I understanding correctly that there is going to be no adverse affect on the soil food web ,whether inorganic or organic salts are used ? I have been using Age Old Organics liquid grow and bloom , they seem to be a good company and not canna promoted . I'm wanting to use my Jacks that I have never used . I guess what I'm needing is reasssurance on the thought of which type fert to using and organics not really making a difference . I could care less about organics , I just want to give my plants what they need . I do find Age Old to be pretty akaline and am constantly adjusting nutrient PH .

On a side note I saw you mention somewhere that Safer brand products are no good .I had sprayed one of my gurls with Safer mitecide (sulper based) damn that stuff fryed my plant . Last grow I used Bayer's line Natria for powdery mildew and it burned some but nowhere near as bad . What's a good mitecide thats easy to obtain but mor suited for MJ . What I noticed about the Safer mitecide was it had a ton of spreader sticker in it . I'm not going to use the rest of it till I atleast dilute it .That shit is so thick it totally crusted over some of my lower buds .Yes I had to spray in flowering by the way . I didnt have no choice .
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No, that's not entirely correct. High levels of chemical fertilizer salts will kill microbes in the soil, especially phosphates. You can work around that by constantly re-applying them every few weeks and still have good results.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hemlock said:
thanks for taking the time Uncle Ben.
GH 3 part Brown Pink Green
Brown 5-0-1
Pink 0-5-4
Green 2-1-6
Does that translate into
7-6-11???

Where do you buy your plantex? at a national retailer or local Nusery??
Thanks Again!!
Click to expand...
Correct on the NPK values (not that I'd buy into it). I buy my Plantex from an ag dealer.

Wolverine97 said:
On the Dyna-Gro, you've never seen problems arise from having everything together in one bottle? Sulfur and calcium together in the same bottle is generally not good in my experience.
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If it was a problem, Dyna-Gro would not be selling it.

Mindmelted said:
How the hell have you been my friend.
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Doing well...sup amigo?

surfhead said:
Hey ub ihave 2 ultraviolets going right now they are autos. Breeder says 70 days, i have done a few and they were 70 -75 days start to finish, my question is iam on day 56 and one is showing me its done or days away the other is on track for 70-75 days,ive kept it green all the way threw this time (big difference ) what would make this get done so early (should i leave it go or will growth be minimal the last 10 -14 days

BIG DIFFERENCE KEEPING IT GREEN NOT YELLOW AND DYING !!
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Are you getting kinky with us regarding the UV lights?

RawBudzski said:
is it true that wrapping a plant in foil will help trap the lumens in. View attachment 1465172
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Yes, but only if the shiny side is in.

kingofqueen said:
Uncle Ben

I am one of "those" who was lured by Organics . But am learning that I have been mislead . I saw some interesting info in here on Synthetic and Organic salts . Am I understanding correctly that there is going to be no adverse affect on the soil food web ,whether inorganic or organic salts are used ? I have been using Age Old Organics liquid grow and bloom , they seem to be a good company and not canna promoted . I'm wanting to use my Jacks that I have never used . I guess what I'm needing is reasssurance on the thought of which type fert to using and organics not really making a difference . I could care less about organics , I just want to give my plants what they need . I do find Age Old to be pretty akaline and am constantly adjusting nutrient PH .

On a side note I saw you mention somewhere that Safer brand products are no good .I had sprayed one of my gurls with Safer mitecide (sulper based) damn that stuff fryed my plant .
Click to expand...
Yes, Safer's is one of the best if you're going for fried shrimps.

Last grow I used Bayer's line Natria for powdery mildew and it burned some but nowhere near as bad . What's a good mitecide thats easy to obtain but mor suited for MJ .
Click to expand...
Kelthane. Good for whatever ails ya.

Sorry, time to go to bed.......
 
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