Controlled Environment Agriculture by Shrubs

jesushadafender

Well-Known Member
Looking absolutely fantastic dude! The ones you just threw into flower should yield a metric shit ton. Clones look super healthy, looks like you'll piggy back on DANK huge harvests here shortly.
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
Hey Shrubs

thought I'd help ya out with those PM's LOL

Lights are 400 watt CMH's and as you can see they are 25 inches above the canopy. You can also see that damn my buds are too big as well in the 6th week of flower with 12 and 14 inch colas :hump:

You folks can either buy into the forum retoric and crap or you could simply give the plants what they need and watch them thrive. Seriously how can you look at the spectacular plants that Shrubs is growing in the single most professional grow on this forum and question his methods ??? Instead of trying to give advice you should be watching and learning, it don't get any better here at RIU and I have had the privledge of tasting his buds and they taste as good as they look people. Learn how to properly dial in ALL of your garden elements and your plants will reward you too :)
 

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TrynaGroSumShyt

Well-Known Member
Hey Shrubs

thought I'd help ya out with those PM's LOL

Lights are 400 watt CMH's and as you can see they are 25 inches above the canopy. You can also see that damn my buds are too big as well in the 6th week of flower with 12 and 14 inch colas :hump:

You folks can either buy into the forum retoric and crap or you could simply give the plants what they need and watch them thrive. Seriously how can you look at the spectacular plants that Shrubs is growing in the single most professional grow on this forum and question his methods ??? Instead of trying to give advice you should be watching and learning, it don't get any better here at RIU and I have had the privledge of tasting his buds and they taste as good as they look people. Learn how to properly dial in ALL of your garden elements and your plants will reward you too :)
i think his lights are fine. but as far as you go. a 400 only penetrates so far. so u may have donkey dick colas.. but u got hella popcorn too and ur buds are long. not fat. ive tried under my 400 with light intensity . shorter plants dont get as much popcorn n taller ones stretch to the cola starting point. light from a 400 just doesnt penetrate enough to be 25'' away. its enough. but it doesnt compare to 10-18 inches.


intesnsity n penetration do matter. id rather have full solid buds on bottom thru top. then hae light airy crap below n super long(not phat) colas.
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
i think his lights are fine. but as far as you go. a 400 only penetrates so far. so u may have donkey dick colas.. but u got hella popcorn too and ur buds are long. not fat. ive tried under my 400 with light intensity . shorter plants dont get as much popcorn n taller ones stretch to the cola starting point. light from a 400 just doesnt penetrate enough to be 25'' away. its enough. but it doesnt compare to 10-18 inches.


intesnsity n penetration do matter. id rather have full solid buds on bottom thru top. then hae light airy crap below n super long(not phat) colas.
might be true with an HPS (never had one) but certainly not true with CMH at 10 inches plants burn, the lights are 5 feet off the concrete basement floor and they heat it just like the sun on a sidewalk
 

TrynaGroSumShyt

Well-Known Member
my 600 is in the cooltube my 400 isn't. asnd i keep it at 12" if ur bulb runs cooler than ur theory of burnin is bust. spectrums do not equal heat. i bet if u put yourlight a lil closer u wil see a difference. u think.. n sorry too shrubs my man.
 

riddleme

Well-Known Member
my 600 is in the cooltube my 400 isn't. asnd i keep it at 12" if ur bulb runs cooler than ur theory of burnin is bust. spectrums do not equal heat. i bet if u put yourlight a lil closer u wil see a difference. u think.. n sorry too shrubs my man.
not a theory, I've burnt em, had some sativas that grew to close. It's mostly the UVB but spectrum does equal photon energy and the PAR on CMH bulbs is one of the best there is
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
Yes the photon flux. If too many photons clip thw surface of the leaf it will cause photo-cell receptor inhibition.

This results in stress unrelated to radiant heat stress.

In nature plants never receive more than 10k footcandles. Thats the maximum received from the sun at it's peak.
Considering the short amount of time the sun is peaked, as well as other factors; other plants shading, dust on the leaf
surface, clouds etc. One can assume the plants are rarely receiving that much light.
 

xivex

Active Member
Yes the photon flux. If too many photons clip thw surface of the leaf it will cause photo-cell receptor inhibition.

This results in stress unrelated to radiant heat stress.

In nature plants never receive more than 10k footcandles. Thats the maximum received from the sun at it's peak.
Considering the short amount of time the sun is peaked, as well as other factors; other plants shading, dust on the leaf
surface, clouds etc. One can assume the plants are rarely receiving that much light.
Awesome. I read that if your getting 7500 foot candles at canopy top that that is an excellent amount of light for flowering. Does that sound right to you shrubs? I got this badass meter and love taking measurements...been meaning to map the hot spots in my room for sometime now and tweak for next cycle..

X
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Yes the photon flux. If too many photons clip thw surface of the leaf it will cause photo-cell receptor inhibition.

This results in stress unrelated to radiant heat stress.

In nature plants never receive more than 10k footcandles. Thats the maximum received from the sun at it's peak.
Considering the short amount of time the sun is peaked, as well as other factors; other plants shading, dust on the leaf
surface, clouds etc. One can assume the plants are rarely receiving that much light.
Stubbs where did you get this info on "photocell receptor inhibition"? I searched around a bit and all I could find on it was stuff you wrote. I've seen radiant heat stress from the bulbs being to close cause bleaching but what is the point of "photocell receptor inhibition"? I grow using vertical lighting and the main thing I deal with is light vs plant placement to keep leaves from burning. Like you I've found that 1000w lights work better a little further away but the tolerance seems pretty close, literally 6 inches seems to be the difference between burn and a happy plant.
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photoinhibition
Interesting stuff! The correct term is "photoinhibition". Plants actually have a repair mechanism to protect them from excess light. As long as they have enough co2 water and nutrients they can protect themselves well unless other environmental factors like heat come into play. The point beyond photoinhibition appears to be bleaching or burn. So it seems technically the bulbs can be closer but why do that when you can use them more efficiently further away?
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
Nice. Yea, I hadn't actually read up on it in a long time. Photoinhibition. See I have read that photosynthesis will stop in many terrestrial plants when Sunlight levels on the leaf surface reach 6500 foot candles. That doesn't mean the same thing happens for HPS lights becase they are different spectrums giving a different Photon flux. But like the information says the different factors such as temp, humidity, CO2 and salinity all effect the photosystems indepedently. It really is up to each individual to find what spacing works best in their environment. But it is improbable that one can look at a picture and say "your light are too far" unless there are ridiculously airy buds coming out. Anyways, thanks for keeping this place informative.
 

phyzix

Well-Known Member
Nice. Yea, I hadn't actually read up on it in a long time. Photoinhibition. See I have read that photosynthesis will stop in many terrestrial plants when Sunlight levels on the leaf surface reach 6500 foot candles. That doesn't mean the same thing happens for HPS lights becase they are different spectrums giving a different Photon flux. But like the information says the different factors such as temp, humidity, CO2 and salinity all effect the photosystems indepedently. It really is up to each individual to find what spacing works best in their environment. But it is improbable that one can look at a picture and say "your light are too far" unless there are ridiculously airy buds coming out. Anyways, thanks for keeping this place informative.
Here is a bit more: https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/314052-plant-light-receptors.html
 

NewGrowth

Well-Known Member
Nice. Yea, I hadn't actually read up on it in a long time. Photoinhibition. See I have read that photosynthesis will stop in many terrestrial plants when Sunlight levels on the leaf surface reach 6500 foot candles. That doesn't mean the same thing happens for HPS lights becase they are different spectrums giving a different Photon flux. But like the information says the different factors such as temp, humidity, CO2 and salinity all effect the photosystems indepedently. It really is up to each individual to find what spacing works best in their environment. But it is improbable that one can look at a picture and say "your light are too far" unless there are ridiculously airy buds coming out. Anyways, thanks for keeping this place informative.
I agree, to me great canopy management and your light spacing seems to work well if you are getting 1.25lbs per light. Obviously the numbers would not add up if in fact your lights were too far. Have you also heard about reflectors crossing wavelengths of light? When the plants get strong reflected light as wells as direct light from the bulbs it confuses them. The effect is funky phototropism making leaves and stems turn in lots of different directions. This was the point of "German aluminum" in reflectors it diffused the light better to prevent crossed wavelengths.
 
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