Producing Feminised Seeds Using Colloidal Silver

skiz1989

Active Member
Be watchful for 'run-away' as the amount of silver in solution increases and the overall process speeds up faster and faster over time as a result of the ever increasing conductivity/current between electrodes - which just ends with an accumulation of a lot of large, excess silver particles precipitating uselessly out of suspension... I'd imagine the higher the voltage the faster that run-away will occur as a general rule.

But even if run-away occurs, I'd also guess that your guess about just siphoning off or filtering the water to just remove any excess precipitate before use would be fine. You should still be left with a fully loaded CS solution in theory... but I'm unsure what effect voltage and changing conductivity has on the actual particle sizes that are in solution though. Did anyone ever find out/investigate how amps/voltage might relate to silver particle sizes?

Just brainstorming...

Any chance you could post a picture of your generator? Just would like to see how you made it.
Higher voltage/amp= faster process as you said but seems to be inverse to silver particles. ie. 12volts seems to take less time and if stopped soonish you will NOT get much solids, but if you run on say 3volts you seem to get solids. I ran two side by side tests however and found that the smaller the gap between the electrodes the faster the overall process was even at a lower voltage. ie. I ran a 3volt at less then a 1cm apart and then ran a 12volt at about 5cm apart and the 3volt finished sooner.

O and yes you can filter out the solids with some coffee paper :) My jock has started showing balls now and im applying my CS every day to it.







@Tet: Try using an old pasta sauce jar instead of a canning jar as you can get so much more outta the sauce. I run both and find that the canning is just too small (250ml). ALSO i use that silver wire too and found that if you curl the wire up into a snail like pattern it seems to help? Donno why but it just does lol.




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tet1953

Well-Known Member
Higher voltage/amp= faster process as you said but seems to be inverse to silver particles. ie. 12volts seems to take less time and if stopped soonish you will NOT get much solids, but if you run on say 3volts you seem to get solids. I ran two side by side tests however and found that the smaller the gap between the electrodes the faster the overall process was even at a lower voltage. ie. I ran a 3volt at less then a 1cm apart and then ran a 12volt at about 5cm apart and the 3volt finished sooner.

O and yes you can filter out the solids with some coffee paper :) My jock has started showing balls now and im applying my CS every day to it.







@Tet: Try using an old pasta sauce jar instead of a canning jar as you can get so much more outta the sauce. I run both and find that the canning is just too small (250ml). ALSO i use that silver wire too and found that if you curl the wire up into a snail like pattern it seems to help? Donno why but it just does lol.




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Thanks skiz. I applied my first spray this morning. I believe I have enough solution for this one plant. I will definitely try your suggestions next time. I think I got a good batch though.
 

jimmernmi

Active Member
Your experimentations with differing voltages, currents and distance between electrodes leads me to think it is all about the actual current flow between electrodes that causes the variance in particle size and the time it takes to produce the solution. If you get a measurement of the finished products resistance, you should be able to use ohms law and find the "perfect" level. The current rating on the supplies you are using is a limit not a value, so use the voltage divided by the resistance value you measure between the electrodes at the desired distance. It is possible for both the 3v and 12...or any other value to all do the job.
 

skiz1989

Active Member
Your experimentations with differing voltages, currents and distance between electrodes leads me to think it is all about the actual current flow between electrodes that causes the variance in particle size and the time it takes to produce the solution. If you get a measurement of the finished products resistance, you should be able to use ohms law and find the "perfect" level. The current rating on the supplies you are using is a limit not a value, so use the voltage divided by the resistance value you measure between the electrodes at the desired distance. It is possible for both the 3v and 12...or any other value to all do the job.
i can always just chuck my multimeter in the water and check resistance/voltage/current?
 

jimmernmi

Active Member
i can always just chuck my multimeter in the water and check resistance/voltage/current?
You know, I bet we are talking about such small amounts of resistance that it may unmeasurable. Check it out though. Don't fry your meter by measuring the current incorrectly! LOL
 

WalterSausage

Active Member
Grumpy - I jumped on board.
Used a 5v cellphone charger and could see the laser after less than an hour...can't wait to try this.
silver laser - Copy.jpgsilver - Copy.jpg
 

Grumpy Old Dreamer

Well-Known Member
Good to see it working Walter - best of luck with making the pollen.
I've just started collecting pollen from a plant that I sprayed with CS only 3 weeks ago - so 3 to 4 weeks for pollen is a good target.
 

piney bob

Active Member
I have used this method a couple times now and am amazed at how well it works to produce male flowers. However, the flowers i produce never seem to open no matter what i do. then the few that do open do not seem to produce viable pollen because i have not produced any seeds. i only sprayed 3-5 times right before flowering, but not durring at all.
 

Grumpy Old Dreamer

Well-Known Member
The least amount of spraying that I have done is daily for a couple of days before 12/12 then continuing daily for about a week after 12/12.
I have noticed that different plants grow different concentrations/densities of male flowers, but as I have only done three so far I can't say anything for certain.

Did you choose a small clone and spray/drench the whole plant or did you just spray part of a plant - just curious as I have no idea whether it makes a difference.

My next CS treatment will be on a Tangerine Dream.
I'll be growing a plant with 2 main leaders and applying the CS to half of the plant only - it will be allowed to then self pollinate.
 

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
I've been following this thread and think its awesome. When I'm ready to do my own I'm glad I have good guide and basis to go by.

It seems like the slower tghe process is performed the smaller the particles will be. Seeing as they haven't had as much time or intensity forcing them to stick to other particles. I haven't done it yet, but if the water stays still, the "run away" might occur faster directly between the electrodes. I wonder if particles in the disired range even sink in the water. If you use the laser at the top, middle and bottom of the jar does the tyndal effect occur in any portion first?
 

piney bob

Active Member
Just a branch or two on a couple mature plants. it only affected the parts sprayed and everything else was nice sensi. so it makes sense to me to just do a branch, but what do i know because i have failed every time haha. I think i might need to continue spraying to produce pollen. Maybe the flowers did not fully develope? strange but i will take it more seriously next time with my pollen harvesting technique.
 

tet1953

Well-Known Member
I started applying CS on March 7, 3 days before starting 12/12. I have now been spraying for 11 days total. Can anyone tell anything from these pictures? I'll try to get some better ones if needed.


cs-1.jpg
cs-2.jpg
cs-5.jpg
cs-4.jpg
cs-3.jpg
 

tet1953

Well-Known Member
Here's a question. Once pollen is obtained, it could be used on any female plant not just it's sibling right? So this would be an easy way to do some selective crossing, and get fem seeds to boot...is that right?
 

piney bob

Active Member
Here's a question. Once pollen is obtained, it could be used on any female plant not just it's sibling right? So this would be an easy way to do some selective crossing, and get fem seeds to boot...is that right?
Yes i believe so. Just like any other pollen i believe. And your plant should show some sign soon. It seemed like it took a while for mine, but it seemed to vary between strains. Some had big nugs of male flowers and some had a couple here and there mixed with the female flowers. sorry i don't have pics to show.
 

tet1953

Well-Known Member
Well, I don't have kids but this must be a little bit like how it feels to be an expectant father lol. I can't say "It's a boy!" yet, but it sure doesn't appear to be female either.
 

TheLastWood

Well-Known Member
Well, I don't have kids but this must be a little bit like how it feels to be an expectant father lol. I can't say "It's a boy!" yet, but it sure doesn't appear to be female either.
Sounds like its working, going by grumpys description on the first pages, he first noticed lack of female orientation. If it doesn't look like a full blown female with pistils growing all over by 2 weeks of 12/12 then id say its working. Its never been more than 2 weeks before the plants sex is undeniable when normally flowering so something must be happening.

She's probably sexually frustrated and confused, should come out of the closet soon. Poor thing.
 

Grumpy Old Dreamer

Well-Known Member
I got that same "confused" impression from the first plant I treated - I think the earlier you apply the CS the less confusion the plant has ... but I'm still learning as I go.
 

Medical Grade

Well-Known Member
So what happens when you take femonized seeds and make more femonized seeds? Have you grown any out that you have made? I hear one common thought is that femonized seeds will bottle neck gene pools from have things like hybrid vigor, terpine profiles, coloring, etc and even recessive genetics like high thc content because these are traits that real male plants have genes for and pass on in the process.
 

tet1953

Well-Known Member
So what happens when you take femonized seeds and make more femonized seeds? Have you grown any out that you have made? I hear one common thought is that femonized seeds will bottle neck gene pools from have things like hybrid vigor, terpine profiles, coloring, etc and even recessive genetics like high thc content because these are traits that real male plants have genes for and pass on in the process.
But remember, these aren't really male plants. It has all the genes its sister has, I believe. We are just forcing it to make a male bud. Fuck, I dunno. That is my understanding though.
 
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