Vegan Organics Aka Veganics With Matt Rize

beeznutz said:
nah man, I don't. I just remember having a conversation with some friends about a yr ago and somebody brought up the subject of soybeans being over produced. and it's true, if u pay attention you'll notice how many products these days, edible or not, have soy ingredients. I don't even drink soymilk anymore, switched to almond and coconut after relizing that I, too have too many soy ingredients in my diet ( it's easy to do when ur vegan).
as a general rule too much of anything's no good, that's all....
Click to expand...
http://starboard.flowtheory.net/blog/2010/05/23/why-soy-sucks/

Two more points about use of soy should be stressed:

Do not ever feed raw soybeans to any sort of livestock! Raw soybeans contain growth inhibitors which can seriously compromise normal growth, among other problems. Roasting or otherwise heat-treating the beans will largely (though some would argue, not entirely) neutralize the growth-inhibiting compounds.

Soybean meal, a common ingredient in commercial feeds, is sometimes available at one’s local feed supply. Be aware that such meal is almost certain to be a byproduct of the extraction of soybean oil. If the oil was extracted using high-pressure expeller presses, it is more acceptable as a feed. More commonly, however, the oil has been extracted using hexane as a solvent; and the resulting meal is likely contaminated with residues of hexane. Unless you know the meal offered was expeller pressed rather than solvent extracted, soybean meal is best avoided.
Click to expand...
http://www.themodernhomestead.us/article/Soy-Alternatives.html

The most commonly available plant-based fertilizers include the following:
Alfalfa meal: Derived from alfalfa plants and pressed into a pellet form, alfalfa meal is beneficial for adding nitrogen and potassium (about 2 percent each), as well as trace minerals and growth stimulants. Roses, in particular, seem to like this fertilizer and benefit from up to 5 cups of alfalfa meal per plant every ten weeks, worked into the soil. Add it to your compost pile to speed up the process.

Compost: Compost is mostly beneficial for adding organic matter to the soil. It doesn't add much in the way of fertilizer nutrients itself, but it does enhance and help make available any nutrients in the soil.
Corn gluten meal: Derived from corn, this powder contains 10 percent nitrogen fertilizer. Apply it only to actively growing plants because it inhibits the growth of seeds. The manufacturer recommends allowing 1 to 4 months after using this product before planting seeds, depending on the soil and weather conditions. Use it on lawns in early spring to green up the grass and prevent annual weed seeds from sprouting.

Cottonseed meal: Derived from the seed in cotton bolls, this granular fertilizer is particularly good at supplying nitrogen (6 percent) and potassium (1.5 percent). Look for organic cottonseed meal because traditional cotton crops are heavily sprayed with pesticides, some of which can remain in the seed oils.

Kelp/seaweed: Derived from sea plants, you can find this product offered in liquid, powder, or pellet form. Although containing only small amounts of N-P-K fertilizer, kelp meal adds valuable micronutrients, growth hormones, and vitamins that can help increase yields, reduce the plant stress from drought, and increase frost tolerance. Apply it to the soil or as a foliar spray.
Soybean meal: Derived from soybeans and used in a pellet form, soybean meal is prized for its high nitrogen (7 percent) content and as a source of phosphorous (2 percent). Like alfalfa meal, it is particularly beneficial to nitrogen-loving plants, such as roses.

Humus: When looking at organic fertilizer products, you'll invariably come across those containing humus, humic acid, or humates. Some of these products have almost magical claims as to what they can do for your plants. Humus, humates, and humic acids are organic compounds often found in compost. Humus is touted to increase soil microbial activity, improve soil structure, and enhance root development of plants.
These products have no fertilizer value, but rather are used as stimulants to support soil microbial life that, in turn, support the plants. Use them as supplements, but not to replace proper soil building and nutrition.
Click to expand...
Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/fertilizing-your-organic-garden.html#ixzz1Owv0vhhw
 
oh also...any1 might want to read up on aspirin mixed with water to activate a plant's natural defenses...i been following up on it and wondered if anyone has experience....it sounds kinda weird, bu trials have shown to be promising....
 
R3DROCk9 said:
oh also...any1 might want to read up on aspirin mixed with water to activate a plant's natural defenses...i been following up on it and wondered if anyone has experience....it sounds kinda weird, bu trials have shown to be promising....
Click to expand...

hook it up with some liiiinnnnkkkssss
 
Checked with the feed maker about the soybean meal, no hexane involved. Most of their feed is for local dairy's and that would show up in the milk.

Wet
 
Both are interesting. The aspirin seems like it does crazy things, I might have to try this with some rose cuts.

Ive been wanting to soak my cuts in a seaweed solution for a while now, just haven't got to it. Anyone have any experience with this? I'll probably give it a go, I have a dozen or so blue widow clones I need to take so maybe I'll try it on half.
 
I know the willow water works, and I do believe that the kelp or seaweed works also. My kelp proeducts have instructions also for cloning and seedlings, haven't gone that route yet myself but I will, and I would also add a dash of a mycrohizzae/bacterial/trichoderma powder product (kinda like a dip but just sprinkle on the cadmium), a little dash goes a long long ways.
 
yeah i started using the aspirin before.....bu my plants werent really needing it, so i dont kno if it really helped

as for the vermitea, here is their website's description....i was jus wondering if this stuff is above and beyond other methods and recipes....some ppl i kno have sworn by it:


Vermi T Solution
4.3/5 rating (41 votes)
Description
Vermi T™ Solution is a highly concentrated liquid form of beneficial biology that increases nutrient efficiency, root mass and yield.* It contains approximately 35,000 diverse organisms that are recognized as probiotics for your plants. Introducing a consistent and balanced plethora of beneficial bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes - key members of the soil food web- allows for better digestion of nutrients as well as stimulates immune system function.

The core humic matter used to create Vermi T™ is unparalleled in the fresh tea market:

-Alaskan Humus is known as the “life force” of soil; it alone is world renowned for its microbiological diversity.

-VermiGreen organic compost is all green waste, no manures, and treated with Vermi T™ to increase biodiversity and cut the degradation process in half.

-VermiWorm earthworm castings are procured from private worm farms and fed a proprietary diet of vegetative matter.

These diverse humic substrates are then fortified with high calcium fossilized kelp containing 72 trace elements and inoculated with endo/ecto mycorrhizae. The diversity of aerobic biology is brought to its highest total biomass by the consumption of six of the most premium fungal/bacteria food sources available. These food sources consist of a proprietary blend of specific simple and complex carbohydrates particular to the needs of the organisms, and are measured to within 0.01 gram to ensure consistent biological culturing.

The integrity of our ingredients combined at specific, scientifically tested ratios, allows Vermi T™ to reach the highest levels of biomass and achieve a biodiversity which is unsurpassed on the market. Vermi T™ was developed to create simplicity in brewing a consistent, premium, microbial tea solution.

Directions for use

Soil: Add VermiT at a 50:1 dilution ratio. This equates to 5tbsp or 75ml or 1/3 cup of VermiT per gallon of water. Apply directly to medium. For optimal results reintroduce VermiT to your garden every 7-10 days.

Soilless/Hydroponics: Add to your reservoir with nutrients at at 50:1 dilution ratio (if you have a drain to waste system simply dilute and top water). This will help digest the nutrients making the readily available for root uptake. Works great breaking down nutrient lock-out of salt-based synthetic fertilizers and thrives with organic fertilizers. Make sure to change your reservoir every 7-10 days. Completely non-sedimental! Won't clog your filters, emitters or pumps!

Foliar: Add VermiT at a rate of (10tbsp) 150 ml per gallon of water. Apply at a minimum of 70% coverage to foliage, stem and stalk. For optimal results reintroduce VermiT to your garden every 7-10 days.

Note: VermiT must be diluted, applied or refrigerated immediately after extraction. This will prolong shelf life from 24 hours to 7-10 days. DO NOT use after expiration or with foul odor.
 
My local shop gave me a half gallon of Vermi T last week and my plants loved it.

I just can't justify purchasing a half gallon every couple weeks since I only use a gallon or two of water every feeding and ended up throwing out way more than I used.

Right now I am using Mayan Microzyme and adding a few things like Bioag's TM-7 and Soluble Seaweed.

Is it possible to make a small batches of worm casting tea (I only need to dilute it into a gallon or two of water) without having to buy big bags of organic materials?
 
Matt Rize said:
I'm just saying... ed, mel, jorge, soma, ect. All these grow books, with the exception of garden saver, are crap for high yield indoor organics. We don't need a bible. Just give a 150 page readable entertaining book on indoor organics, not some BS bed growing like soma's book... so kushman and I are just wrapping up his indoor veganics book. I'm stoked to get this info out there. but the info on this thread is as deep and advanced as it gets. way beyond a book. you guys have brought it all together. I think about where I was when this thread started, man... thanks to all the cannabinoid filled minds out there. You guys will recognize entire parts of the book from my blog posts and this thread. Once this book is done I'll be back to my original pursuit. The Pursuit of the Pure. And I'll be putting out more hash blogs. rize up RIU! I've had all my stuff on the back burner trying to explain veganics and high yield indoor growing to kyle :mrgreen: :rolleyes: :bigjoint: zing! jk kyle if you're out there! Supercropping chapter is revolutionary. Much of the book is. Kyle wrote the majority, we did some together, and I have a couple chapters at the end.
Click to expand...

When and where is the book available?
 
Have you ever thought about mixing Cacao beans of goji berries into the soil? Cacao has 1 of the the highest nutritional elements of all superfoods.
What about adding spirulina in the mix? Would this algae be of benefit?
 
digimidgi said:
Have you ever thought about mixing Cacao beans of goji berries into the soil? Cacao has 1 of the the highest nutritional elements of all superfoods.
What about adding spirulina in the mix? Would this algae be of benefit?
Click to expand...
I'm afraid that is a little beyond me right now. I think Cacao and goji are both pretty expensive, same with spirulina.
 
Actually soil is a mixture of minerals, organic matter, air, water, and both living and non living organisms. There are 12 types of soil, gelisols, histosols, spodosols, andisols, oxisols, vertisols, aridisols, ultisols, mollisols, alfisols, inceptisols, and entisols. Soil is also home to thousands of insects and other organisms like worms. Worms play a huge role in healthy soil, they help increase the amount of air and water that gets down into the soil, they break down organic matter, and they leave behind castings which are a good and very rich source of fertilizer. Having worms in your soil is a sign that you have healthy soil. Soils also have diffrent characteristics and textures like sand, silt, clay, or loam. This can play a vital role in how the soil holds water, air, drainage, and nutrients. Also the smell and color of your soil can tell you a lot about it, dark= high in organic matter=good, uniform= well mixed= good, striped or spotted= not well mixed=bad, blue-gray=standing water= bad and red= high in iron. For smell earthy =life in soil=good, like low tide or bad fish= anaeboric decomposition=standing water=bad, no smell at all =dead. Remember this also there are millions of living things in 1 teaspoon of healthy soil that need water, air, and food to live.
 
Professor Matt i have a question. I want to try to use compost tea to root my clones in rockwool. Then transplant in soil with the rest. When i bubble it for a few days it goes to neutral. Would that be safe to use?? Because i know hydro they recommend 5.8-6.0 ph. But in my compost tea i include humic acids( chelate) lemon juice(chelate) molasses(chelate). So im thinking my ph wouldnt matter too much for rockwool. What do ya think? :shock:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top