Beanz's Redemption Grow 2011

Psychild

Well-Known Member
"Look into it for sure at least. I think they're gonna be big. Shit man, MH's and HPS's have been around since the 70's. I think it's about time for a change in the grow light industry. The only problem is right now, they only come in 400w or less I think."

I've been looking at these for the past 6 months, The bulb you want is the Phillips "HPS Retro White" and it only comes in 250 & 400 W. There are other CMH bulbs in different wattage's but they don't have the same color spectrum. I don't have them YET but have seen them in action, they only have about 2/3 the lumes as an HPS but have many times the lumes in the proper color spectrum. And they run much cooler, you can actually touch the 400 bulb while it is operating.
There's definitely good smaller bulbs out right now. I havn't done a whole lot of research, but if you search for the user Gumball, he's done quite a bit of CMH research for smaller fixtures. CMH is definitely the way to go now!
 

Beansly

RIU Bulldog
There's definitely good smaller bulbs out right now. I havn't done a whole lot of research, but if you search for the user Gumball, he's done quite a bit of CMH research for smaller fixtures. CMH is definitely the way to go now!
I think I'd like t have a 400w CMH and a 200w HPS for flower.
yeah.....tha'd be sweet.
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
i saw you post a link to these plasma lights, i looked every where for the price but i just found quotes. so maybe you can get those
 

sambo020482

Well-Known Member
It was 7pm when you asked. What are you dong up so damn late b?
lol i was on it last night m8, in my own place now fank fuck, and i really do have insomnia carnt spell it but i got lol

ur grow is looking real nice beans, hope u got plenty of security m8 ;-)
 

Beansly

RIU Bulldog
i saw you post a link to these plasma lights, i looked every where for the price but i just found quotes. so maybe you can get those
Yeah dude no prob.

$1,300
Here's the one light model. Don't let the fixture turn you off. It's an awkward light, with the bulb on one side instead of in the middle of it.
http://www.greners.com/solar-genesis-i-chameleon-plasma-grow-light.html?___store=english

$2,300
Here's the two light model. This is the one that I saw on RIU the grew the matanuska thunderfuck. Pretty amazing light.
http://www.greners.com/solar-genesis-ii-chameleon-plasma-grow-light.html?___store=english

$7,000
Here's the high-end model. I has four extra LED panels and 6 fans I think.
http://www.greners.com/solar-genesis-vi-chameleon-plasma-grow-light.html?___store=english
 

Beansly

RIU Bulldog
damn i can buy a civic with that dude
xD
I know man! That's why I'm looking seriously into the Philips Retro White CMH. It looks like it has a better spectrum than the chameleon, and it's cheaper than most of the HPS's on the market now. The one I want is like $50 as compared to the one I wanted, the Eye Horti Super 400, that's $100.
Take a look at these graphs. Here are the light spectrum for a standard Metal Halide, Horti Super HPS, Philips CMH, Chameleon Plasma and natural sunlight.

Metal Halide
View attachment 1665659

Eye Horti Super 400 HPS
super400hps.jpg.jpeg

Phillips Ceramic Metal Halide
CMH.gif

Chameleon Plasma
chameleon.png
Natural Sunlight
View attachment 1665663

The thing that got me off in the direction of new light bulbs, was the fact that on a sunny day in summer, the sun only shines 7000-8000 lumen. I started to wonder why I was shoving lumen up my plants ass, and why it's such common practice to do so. I remember reading that plants don't see light in terms of lumens but in PAR watts, but that's the boring sciency part of J.Cervantes's grow bible right? So I glossed over it.

It wasn't until I started looking into light bulbs again that I realized the significance of that information. This is a quote I took of the chameleon webstie, but it applies to indoor growing in general;
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial]
Plants "see" light differently than human beings do. While they are a good general standard to measure light efficiency, lumens, lux, or footcandles, should not be taken as gospel for plant growth since they are measures used for human visibility. A more correct measure for plants is PAR
[/FONT] [FONT=Tahoma, Arial]Photosythetically Active Radiation (PAR) : used to refer to the portion of the light spectrum optimal for plant growth, namely about 400 to 700 nanometers in wavelength. [/FONT] [FONT=Tahoma, Arial]watts. In addition to quantity of light, considerations of quality are important, since plants use energy in different parts of the spectrum for critical processes. For a detailed discussion of how to determine light efficiency for plants see: [/FONT]


When you look into it, it's not that bulb companies are purposely trying to mislead us. It's that HID lighting was originally intended for warehouse lighting, and for engineers and contractors, lumens are how they measure how much lighting a certain space will need. IE visible light for the purpose of working safely in, NOT for plants to grow in.

It's all fascinating really, and if you get in deep enough, it might change the way you think about lighting in general. I know it looking like that for me.
For example, now growers are thinking the the only reason that 1000 watt lights yeild more than 400 watters is because of the shear amount heat and uv light it radiates. Tests are being conducted now where growers are setting up uv lights to turn on a half hour before the main lights in the grow room turn on, and stay on a half hour after they turn off to better mimic the sun and test the theories. Results should be out by the end of this year.

Beanz:leaf:
 

Beansly

RIU Bulldog
a good diagram of why ScrOG is good technique for increasing the sq. footage of the grow space.

whyscrog.gif

It doesn't mention this, but if the sq ft of the wall is bigger than the sq. footage of the floor (like a spare/hallway closet) , then it better suited for a Vertical ScrOG up the walls.
Beanz:leaf:
 

Psychild

Well-Known Member
a good diagram of why ScrOG is good technique for increasing the sq. footage of the grow space.

View attachment 1665689

It doesn't mention this, but if the sq ft of the wall is bigger than the sq. footage of the floor (like a spare/hallway closet) , then it better suited for a Vertical ScrOG up the walls.
Beanz:leaf:
Man I've been thinking about doing a Scrog lately, but just recently started growing. Now that you say it like this, I might have to try a vertical scrog. I've seen a few done, but never thought about doing it. It does just make sense though considering I could probably double the size of my op by doing a vert. scrog. √√√ Good info.
 

Beansly

RIU Bulldog
Man I've been thinking about doing a Scrog lately, but just recently started growing. Now that you say it like this, I might have to try a vertical scrog. I've seen a few done, but never thought about doing it. It does just make sense though considering I could probably double the size of my op by doing a vert. scrog. √√√ Good info.
I think you should go for it dude.
I'm pretty much 100% decided that my next cycle is gonna be a bare-bulb, Verti-ScrOG. I just have to iron out a few deets like how hot is my little closet gonna get without an air cooled hood? I might use a cool tube if I have to, but I wanna go commando. Bare-back baby lol
Idk, cool tube is nice but it's an extra expense, + I've heard they eat up about 5%-10% of the lumens, and I've also heard they aren't necessary.
 

Psychild

Well-Known Member
I think you should go for it dude.
I'm pretty much 100% decided that my next cycle is gonna be a bare-bulb, Verti-ScrOG. I just have to iron out a few deets like how hot is my little closet gonna get without an air cooled hood? I might use a cool tube if I have to, but I wanna go commando. Bare-back baby lol
Idk, cool tube is nice but it's an extra expense, + I've heard they eat up about 5%-10% of the lumens, and I've also heard they aren't necessary.
Man If it were up to me and I had temp issues (which I'm sure you will if you don't have proper vent. I don't in my closet, I have to leave the door open ><) then I'd use a cool tube.....unless it's a CMH. The only reason why I wouldn't with a CMH is because glass filters out the UVB which is one of the best things about a CMH.....the trich production. I'm not sure if your familiar with the user Gastanker, but he has found some very cheap DIY cool tubes. I'm sure if he has some left he'd probably sell one to you much cheaper than you can get one online. https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/407578-gastankers-1000-watt-x-ray-35.html#post5836557

Why Vertical bulbs can be better. https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/407578-gastankers-1000-watt-x-ray-33.html#post5788272 (Check out his side lighting too! it's ridiculous!)

Edit: Those are the actual post links, and not just a thread link.
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
xD
I know man! That's why I'm looking seriously into the Philips Retro White CMH. It looks like it has a better spectrum than the chameleon, and it's cheaper than most of the HPS's on the market now. The one I want is like $50 as compared to the one I wanted, the Eye Horti Super 400, that's $100.
Take a look at these graphs. Here are the light spectrum for a standard Metal Halide, Horti Super HPS, Philips CMH, Chameleon Plasma and natural sunlight.

Metal Halide
View attachment 1665659

Eye Horti Super 400 HPS
View attachment 1665661

Phillips Ceramic Metal Halide
View attachment 1665660

Chameleon Plasma
View attachment 1665662
Natural Sunlight
View attachment 1665663

The thing that got me off in the direction of new light bulbs, was the fact that on a sunny day in summer, the sun only shines 7000-8000 lumen. I started to wonder why I was shoving lumen up my plants ass, and why it's such common practice to do so. I remember reading that plants don't see light in terms of lumens but in PAR watts, but that's the boring sciency part of J.Cervantes's grow bible right? So I glossed over it.

It wasn't until I started looking into light bulbs again that I realized the significance of that information. This is a quote I took of the chameleon webstie, but it applies to indoor growing in general;
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial]
Plants "see" light differently than human beings do. While they are a good general standard to measure light efficiency, lumens, lux, or footcandles, should not be taken as gospel for plant growth since they are measures used for human visibility. A more correct measure for plants is PAR
[/FONT] [FONT=Tahoma, Arial]Photosythetically Active Radiation (PAR) : used to refer to the portion of the light spectrum optimal for plant growth, namely about 400 to 700 nanometers in wavelength. [/FONT] [FONT=Tahoma, Arial]watts. In addition to quantity of light, considerations of quality are important, since plants use energy in different parts of the spectrum for critical processes. For a detailed discussion of how to determine light efficiency for plants see: [/FONT]


When you look into it, it's not that bulb companies are purposely trying to mislead us. It's that HID lighting was originally intended for warehouse lighting, and for engineers and contractors, lumens are how they measure how much lighting a certain space will need. IE visible light for the purpose of working safely in, NOT for plants to grow in.

It's all fascinating really, and if you get in deep enough, it might change the way you think about lighting in general. I know it looking like that for me.
For example, now growers are thinking the the only reason that 1000 watt lights yeild more than 400 watters is because of the shear amount heat and uv light it radiates. Tests are being conducted now where growers are setting up uv lights to turn on a half hour before the main lights in the grow room turn on, and stay on a half hour after they turn off to better mimic the sun and test the theories. Results should be out by the end of this year.

Beanz:leaf:
ya that Phillips got a bit of an edge,
 

Beansly

RIU Bulldog
Today was the first day of week 5, and the first time I get to use House and Garden Shooting Powder. Part of the reason I wanted to get these pictures up was because I want a before and after 'shooting powder' reference. Plus I want to see if it really works.
Shooting Powder is a bloom booster that has an NPK of 0-39-25. This is supposed to cause the buds to go into overdrive producing flowers.
I generally don't believe snake oil claims, but I've seen a few grows with shooting powder and the effect is obvious. The plants literally grows another layer of calyxes over the existing ones.
With an NPK so high, they have you reduce the base by half so as not to burn the plants, but I've seen people fry their crops with this stuff too. If you follow directions though, there's no problems. I was surprised to see that the ppm of the mix after adding everything was under 900 ppm. I wanted to add more, but I didn't lol. The Top Booster and Bud XL I gave them last week made them swell pretty good. The bud xl is supposed to move sugars and carbs fromo the leaves to the buds, and the top booster is a pk 13/14 bloom booster that signals to the plant the end is near, which causes it to 'panic' and in feeble attempt to get pollinated, produce more and more 'flowers.' Enough talk, here's my babies pre-shooting power.
100_5550.jpg100_5565.jpg100_5500.jpg100_5538.jpg100_5586.jpg100_5576.jpg100_5516.jpg100_5555.jpg100_5495.jpg100_5579.jpg100_5515.jpg100_5580.jpg100_5588.jpg100_5539.jpg100_5532.jpg100_5505.jpg100_5502.jpg100_5548.jpg100_5562.jpg100_5482.jpg100_5557.jpg100_5542.jpg100_5556.jpg100_5478.jpg100_5492.jpg100_5568.jpg

:leaf::leaf::leaf:

I have been doing a little experiment/observation of plants growing in a DWC set up and in hempy buckets. I wish I had put the same strains in all three 'pots' because the Northern Light Blue I put in the DWC grows slow, at first, naturally because of its indica afghani gene, and the two in the hempy pots grow faster. All in all tho, DWC has the healthiest plant of the three. The hempy buckets are incredibly simple tho, which gains them a lot of points with me. Also, the plants in the hempy pots grew a vigorous healthy root system compared to the DWC so far (the hempy buckets have at least a week ahead of the DWC tbh).
I had written of DWC really, but it looks like I might have to give it another look.

DWC
dwcee01.jpgdwcee03.jpgdwcee05.jpgdwcee04.jpgdwcee02.jpg

Hempy
h01.jpgh02.jpgh04.jpg

:leaf::leaf::leaf:

The clones are still in vegetative limbo, waiting for a light and room to grow...
clones01.jpgclones02.jpgclones03.jpg
clones04.jpg
Beanz:leaf:
 

THESkunkMunkie

Well-Known Member
Lookin great, nice and frosty already and lookin all tastey too. But is that you I can see in the mylar reflection on pic#21??
 
Top