Professor Marijuana's 45 Day Grow Q & A

Thank you very much for the response Professor, I truly appreciate your sharing of valuable knowledge :) Those buds in your pic are out of this world. I'd love to be able to achieve results like that, in fact I'm making that my goal! Hopefully it wont take me 43 years though lol! I will give that C4 a try (mostly because you recommended it, but I'd be lying if I said that it wasn't in part because it has a cool name!). I hope you don't mind if I continue asking questions, but it's not every day that you get to study from a real veteran, and your answers made me think of some more stuff I wanted to ask ;)

1. I'm not familiar with Home and Garden nutrients...the only search results I got from Google were for House and Garden so I wondered if that's what you meant? The ones from Amsterdam? Do you think it's worth special ordering? My grow store only carries GH and Foxfarm. Did you dislike GH because of inferior yields? Also would your nutes work for high pressure aero where you need 100% liquid, sediment free nutrients? {sorry, I just looked at the Aqua Flakes 2 part nutrient which seems to be designed for hydro/aero so I guess it would work}

2. When you say that you use a water chiller with added oxygen, how does that work? Are you pumping oxygen into the water somehow?

3. How do your nutrient formulas change from week to week? Any chance you could break it down? Like for instance for me, I use GH at a ratio of 2parts-1part-3parts Micro-Grow-Bloom for veg and 2-3-1 for flower. How do you do it? (I don't know if your nutrient line is a 2 part or 3 part formula)

4. With respect to cloning to get a great plant, you said you clone over 25 generations selecting and isolating the best 3 clones out of a hundred each time. This may sound rudimentary but, how do you know which the best clones are before they are fully flowered? And once they are fully flowered, isn't it too late to clone at that point? Or is your criteria different i.e. the fastest growing, or thickest stem or something?

5. Sorry for this one but...what do you do for spider mites? I'm battling the most viscous mite problem right now and I've thrown everything but the kitchen sink at em and they just laugh at me.

Thanks for all your time and effort, and please disregard the naysayers, they only serve to constrict the flow of knowledge.
Hi RedOctober (Favorite book) House and Garden is it's name, sorry I got that wrong, was a bit burned out and upset last night. It's a bit pricy but I believe it's well worth it. Their product adjust for each week of the growing cycle which makes damned good sence to me. There is a chart that explains exactly what to do with the nutes. I feed every 7 days, not 6, or 8, but every 7 days. I drain every two weeks like gospel. I do not like GH, just a personal thing.

I use a large water cooler in each 60 system. Look at it this way, the closer your lights are to the plants the better. That poses a problem however, heat. Even when you vent your lights they will emit some heat, cannabis plants are like little radiators, if the water you give them in a hydro system is chilled it keeps them cooler. Every little thing you can do to get lights closer is a plus. I have those new flexible air tubes in each resivour to oxygenate the water. It's the little details that seperate the great growers from the good growers.

Picking my three best clones is just something you get a feel for over time. It's not scientific more of a feel. I look for robust, semetrical, good colored plants that just seem to be the pick of the litter. As generations go by you will notice that your clones get better and better. By the time I got to the 25th generation they were just fantastic plants that were just superior to the plants I began with. Just look at what you have and pick what seems to be your best clones, it will pay off.

Mites, man. It is just a fact of life for growers. My grow rooms are completely sealed. I go to great lengths to seal them off, no air in, no air out. Lights are vented very well to avoid the need to exhaust. all seams are sealed, doors have air tight sweeps and edges. We follow certain protocols for entering. Never after touching plants outside or pets, clean clothes plus lab coats. Seems like over kill to some but we go for extended periods without mites, often entire grows. Prevention is the first thing. Cleanliness, we mop floors and walls and equipment with a ten percent bleach solution each week. I have issues with bombs, why would I put a carcenagin on medicine for cancer patients? Use a food safe product. The important thing about mite management is understanding their life cycle, in CO we got a new red mite a few years ago, it hatches every couple days and it's babies are ready to lay eggs as soon as the hatch. If you spray and then wait three days a new generation of mites has already been born and laid eggs. You need to spray every couple days five or six times in a row to kill living mites plus their off spring. It is worth the effort to stay alert and check every day for mites, as soon as you see them start treating them. It's very hard to kill them all off, management is the key. If your room has had a really bad infestation it may be worth shutting it down and cleaning top to bottom. The use bombs every two days repeating five times. Heppa filters on all air intake and paying attention to what you handle before entering and touching your plants. I've been testing items to use in the water to control mites, so far chilli powder seems to be the best. How does cyan kush sound? lol
 

Metalarc Lemon

Active Member
I currently run the 4x4 square tubes (ala stinkbud) with the ez clone sprayers inside, using 2" net cups and foam plugs, no medium of any sort. under 2 1000's on a mover. My question is do you think that dwc would produce heavier plants than the tube set up? I don't veg except for the time they spend in the aero cloner, which is until they have a good 10" of root growth usually about 2 to 3 weeks from cut day. with dwc I wouldn't be able to have as many plant sites, but would the greater area for root mass make up for the less plants in increased production? or with me not vegging would there really be minimal difference?
I'd appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks.
 
that sounds very tempting, but i cant get rolling till oct. i will be working with a budget of $3000 and a spare bedroom. i was planning on doing an undercurrent dwc 6 plant scrog setup in a 10x5x7 tent with 2 1000s and raptor hoods. but i might seriously take you up on that if you are still free when im ready. thats definitly putting your money where your mouth is. :)
The offer was probably more too show I'm not here to sell but rather teach. When the time comes lets talk before you go out spending your cash on equipment. If you have exsisting equipment we can see what we can put together. Provide me with a few pic's a blueprint of the space and I'll design a room for you with equipment that will fit your budget. I do NOT like tents, I much prefer to build a room from scratch, it doesn't have to be as complicated as some make it.

I haven't read ahead yet but I have no doubt they're waiting for me, probably bring friends too lol. Saddly it's not being paranoid just from experience. I'm done responding to any length, and will try very hard not to get pissed to a point I say to hell with it and just stop coming back. Being 6'6" and 280lbs I am not use to taking much shit from people. Having no agenda other then helping makes it all the more difficult to sit and take shit. To be honest I'm just wrapping up a project I've spent the last five years on and have some free time. My favorite thing to do is teach growing so this is like a vacation to me. For the life of me I don't get why some are hell bent on making waves.
 
I've used the aqua flakes a&b house &garden with decent results might switch back if i dont like this veg formula from an.

working with the garbage radiant hydrofarm hood with 8 inch flange going to upgrade to the magnum xxxl 8 inch and push the 747cfm vortex thru it like I've been doing. Using a tent got a huge dehumidifier but It gets to hot in the tent.

Running connosiuer a&b this round with some nirvana and big bud but not sure if I like the ratio of phosphorus.
I'm sold on the H&G. The XXXL is my choice for hoods, an 8 inch vent with only 9 inches hieght is great when hieght is limited. If you look at the footprint of the areo flo 60 and the put two XXXL's over them it is almost a perfect fit. Great throw and even light pattern, great venting it's just a outstanding product. I use the ten inch black max fan
but make sure you use a booster on the back side. Backflo will dramatically reduce your air volume. I use one fan and one booster for every two hoods. I also clean my glass after every grow, inside and out. I also beef up the seals to minimize hot air leaking. I also replace bulbs on a regular basis. I see my expences in zips not dollars, if a newer grower sees the extra hundred dollars for a bulb as a lot, it appears different when you realize that it only takes a quarter ounce increase in yield to pay for it. Light is everything in indoor growing. I am absolutely fanatical about it, more lumens translates into bigger yields. If growers spent the energy in light management they would quickly see the benefits. I adjust lights every single day, if I can eliminate even an inch space between plant and light it is well worth it. I use motorcycle tiedowns instead of chain for my lights. I can give them a little pull to adjust or just push the lever to drop, no s hooks and chains. I can't stress enough how much the little details can effect your yield. Forget wasting your money on miracle additives and spend the time on the little details. As an example, I wrap the arms on the aeroflo with insulation to keep water temps a few degrees cooler. Cooler water means closer lights which means bigger yields. Each inch closer for every hour adds up over the course of an entire grow.

Love to hear what you think at the end on your products. Always good to learns and share knowlege. I know there are those who feel dogging me is a good use of time but I see things different. Look, over 43 years growing I've made every mistake there is to make, most more then once lol. My thought is, if I've already made the mistake then you don't have too. Unfortunately experience and outstanding performance seems to threaten some people so they just make it so negative it isn't worth continuing. Why would anyone continually take shit and have to defend themself in order to help others? Nothing in it for me so it just becomes something that isn't fun or worthy of your time. There have been enough people who seem to be benefitting at this point to make it ok.
 
Hey professer MJ PLease stick around bro this is going to be an epic thread if evryone get off the bullshit. Im soaking all this info up its good stuff man I cant wait to hear more, I know for a fact I can produce at least half what your doing now if you keep spilling out this info im a sponge and I always get ahead by keeping my mouth shut and ears open and if it dosent apply let it fly. So preach on Professer. So what do you keep your temps at and humid? You said you check the nutes weekly to adjust to plants do you use your ppm meter for that to see how much there taking in? Im in the process of getting one I never used one yet so sorry for the inexperience question. What are your vital supplies you use evryday for you op? Ph meter ppm etc. Thanks
Trying my best to tolerate the haters, so far so good. For meters I use the Hanna ph/ppm/ec meter. Quality product that is durable. The beautiful part of H&G is it eliminates the need for some of the monitoring. Here's how I do it, when I drain every two weeks and feed exactly every 7 days I have found the need to measure ppm is no longer there. Follow the guide and add for the water volume you have, drain regularly, and ppm and salt build up isn't a problem. I measure ph every day, it's critical. If your ph is out of range the plant can't take in the nutes, you can use the best food in the world but if you're ph is off it doesn't matter. Doing a scheduled program eliminates a lot of work and problems. I rarely need to adjust anything, you get in a groove and maintain it. Don't worry about your questions, they're all good if you learn something.
 
Hey guys heres the link to the C4 strain the professer was talking about. http://hempdepot.ca/seeds/chimera/C4.html It sounds good hey professer MJ How was the quality of that c4 and what do you reccomend as for another pure indica potent strain good for SOG? Thats at a seed bank
Nothing but good to say about C4 or hempdepot. Ultimate indica is another. Their site will let you search for indicas if thats what your shopping for. There are many Indica dominant strains as well, 60 days is not to shabby either. Don't get stuck only on pure indicas, weed is like wine, you have to enjoy all the subtle diffs. Flo works well in SOGs too
 
Hi professor, thank you for offering your knowledge to us. This is great info. I remember when you were here before and you unfortunately got a poor reception from some peeps. I was sorry to see you leave.

First question: what is your opinion of light movers? Can they be beneficial if one only has one light?
Light movers suck, they are a lie. Look, it's all about light on the plants, a 1000w that's moving isn't really a 1000w is it. Rather have 500 on it all the time then a 1000 that is passing through. KISS, movers just another thing to go wrong and another drain on limited power.
 

Distiller

Active Member
I was told that light movers allow you to put your lights significantly closer since there is less heat on the plants. Not true?
 


Has he mentioned when his seminar is yet?

*edit - ahh I see he has changed his tactics, now recruiting students.
Ah Bonzi, so nice to see your positive face again. Have you managed to get a crop in since I was here a year ago? I know Bonzi are a bit slower so it's ok. As far as upcoming seminars I thought I'd wait to check with you so I'm not scheduling any while yours are going, probably wouldn't get any takers. All I have going is a NORML gig down under and a few in the UK, hopefully your booked stateside. As far as students, I unfortunately don't have the time to take on new clients that's partially why I feel it's my duty to spend this time helping others. Perhaps I can refer them your way if you have opennings. It's easy to see by your post that you don't want to waste time with BS when you can ask questions that help. My tactic has always been the same, learn all I can about this plant, share it when possible, and stand up for what's right. You see something for sale? You seen advice that's incorrect? Noticed any spamming?

It's funny to me that every person who has been compelled to protect others from the evil Prof Mj doesn't have anything to offer except fertilizer. I get the impression that the folks here don't need you to decide if they can gain something from me or not. I'll have my people get with yours before I book any future seminars. I'd appreciate it if all those who just want to stir things up find somewhere else to do it.

Nice to see you again.
 

Distiller

Active Member
hey professor, I have some light specific questions for you. In terms of lights do you prefer 1000w or 600w? For instance in a 10 x 4 foot area, would you do 3 600's, 2 1000's, or 3 1000's and why? Also, how far away from the canopy should you set your lights if they're not exhausted and vented?
 

EvolAlex

Well-Known Member
are you counting 43 days from cutting the clone or from the clone rooting? you put the rooted clown straight in flower?
 

Metalarc Lemon

Active Member
alrighty then, thanks for the opinion it really helped. I always appreciate picking growers minds and getting tidbits of knowledge from friendly like minded people. Oh wait you ignored the question I asked even though I asked it twice. AWESOME! thanks bro way to really show how it's done on a post you named Q&A! I guess for me it's just a Q thread. lolololololololol
 
question about light hoods. I started off running my exhaust for the room through my lights, and things worked well. I convinced myself that my plants would recieve more light if I removed the glass from the hoods, and skip the venting through the hoods. My room does not really have heat problems at all, as long as I'm venting. So whats better, glass out, and 10" from the plants or glass in and 5 or 6" between the light and the plants.
Good question burrr; here are my thoughts on it. If your are limited by the amount of exhuast possibilites it seems like a good way to vent heat and lights. BUT, if you are venting your lights via air in the grow room how can you maintain a good C02 level? Your sucking out C02 nonstop, not good. Issue two, you are reducing lumens by blowing particulates from the room onto your bulb. What if a drop of moisture gets blown onto your bulb? $100 gone. I'll bet your light is at least a foot away from your girls, right? I probably sound like a broken record but it's that important, your lights need to be absolutely as close to your plants as possible. My 1000w lights are normally no more then four inches from the canopy. Your 1000w light a foot away will produce 300w less energy on the plants then mine will four inches away. Think how much difference there is having 30% less light on your plants over the course of a 60 day flower. I would get better results from a 600w light then you would with a 1000w light. I hear all the time that students can't afford a new light and yet they could get the same gains just using good light management. There are only a few things that are "musts" for indoor growers, light, temp, ph, ppms, c02 is about it. Why do I grow buds like those in my avatar and you don't? The haters say that they're excellent growers and my yields are impossible, they're right. Impossible for them, you hear the way little shit is important to me, lights an inch closer, water temps five degrees cooler, c02 at exactly levels, nutes adjusted for every week of the life cycle, mopping floors and walls, lab coats before entering, 25 generations of clones to find the best, ph readings daily, high/low temps and humidity recorded daily, video to my phone of each facilities flower rooms. I would bet my last dollar that not one of them is even close to that degree of attention paid. I would also bet that their shelfs are filled with every additive there is and they have a room full of equipment that wasn't right. They don't get pissed because I make a living doing seminars or signing students, they get pissed because they're out classed and out performed. I have zero doubt that any of you who listen and ask questions I could have out producing them in two grows, not by tricks or secrets but from knowlege and disapline. I may sound pissy but it's the truth. Someone asked about Diesel, I had a friend share some clones with me. We both grew the same strain from the same mothers and they looked like two different plants at the end. Mine finished almost two weeks sooner and were every bit twice as dence. How could that be? Environment and disipline, period.

I will make the comittment to those of you wanting to push the limits to stick around long enough to share what is needed to become outstanding growers. Nothing for sale, no students that pay, no spamming, just free, correct, sound wisdom without limits. How's that for new tactics Bonzi? Shoot that down.
 
transition to flowering,
Does the 36 hour thing rally work? did you do some side by side comparisons and what kind improvement was seen
Bloom Nutes... do you make an abrut change to bloom nutes, or do you ease into them by mixing w/ grow nutes.
Do you ever use MH for the beginning of the bloom phase.
Do you reduce your nutrient concentration while making the transition, and if so from what EC?
Do you tweak your NPK ratios through out the bloom cycle, or pic a ratio and run with it.

Thanks bro
This is good stuff folks, thank you. I like to do 36 dark twice. One transition to flower, I've done side by side studies and the plants given 36 hours dark go into flower faster, stronger, no question about it. Second, a week before harvest I like to repeat, it increases trichome production.

Flower nutes, if I am vegging I drain during the 36 hour period and go full strength into flower nutes. I have MH only in mother room, don't need them for my style growing.

PPM/EC, When I am growing in different methods I use EC, it is more relevant then ppm's. My issues with the whole debate are, most ec meters aren't really measuring ec but are simply doing a mathmatical equation based on ppm, if you don't have fairly expencive equipment it is a bit misleading. For purposes of the Prof Mj school here I sugest sticking with a good ppm meter. I always try to improve efficiency, H&G with disiplined maintinance eliminates the need to monitor either ppm or ec. Ec build up isn't an issue if you drain regularly, no chance for salt build up. It also adjust all levels weekly. that one product eliminates almost all your concerns
 
Light foot print?
I see you like to hit your plants with massive light.
What would be the most efficient foot print for a given light, as far as gpw goals.

In my grow, i've got 3 under a 600 and a foot print thats about 3 x 4.
Would I improve my gpw numbers by keeping the plants bunched tighter, into a smaller foot print?
There is a balance between concentration of plants and penetration. I like to focus on the top third in traditional growing. Measure your footprint and let me know what your watts per sq ft are
 

Distiller

Active Member
So for your style of growing you use only flowering nutes? What is your ppm schedule? Do you flush the last week? How do you vent your heat in order to keep your lights 4 inches above the canopy?
 
Hey professor I have a question I can NOT find an answer to anywhere. I have seen this thread and all the people giving you shit...I can only say...some people should upgrade their weed before posting....I am a new grower and love it...I am having issues finding one bit of info I desperately need and hopefully you have the answers...or someone following this thread...I am growing autoflowers...I have 2 seperate rooms entirely...I have 2 males growing (yes, growing!) all Info I find about males is to kill them quick...sadly with auto's cloning isnt really an option so I am growing these males purely for seed production...I have read all about pollenating the fems, I really can't afford to take the chance with screwing up my ladies...maybe when I attain a better comfort level and knowledge (meaning more than 2 plants grown out so far)...so my question is when do I harvest the males? I have one with pollen sacs busted all over the damn place the plant itself looks like its covered in pissed on snow...the other is still forming pods like crazy maybe 10 total sacs busted on it so far...do I have to dry and cure the males as I do the fems? when do I chop for seeds? there is absolutely no info I can find on this anywhere...please anyone with knowledge and time to share it would be greatly appreciated...thanks kindly in advance!
Autoflower keeps coming up, are we talking cannabis rudderellis? My thoughts, when to harvest males? soon as you know they are males. Cover with a trash bag, tie off at the base and chop down removing asap. If you already have pollen sacks there is a good possibility your girls are now pollenated even in seperate rooms. If you have dust like you say it's almost 100% get rid of them and stop growing autoflowers. They exsist soley because location close to the equator don't get the light changes we get closer to the poles. That's why you don't here the word equador in the name of strains. Alaskan thunderfuck but no equator kush, lolUnless you're breeding there is no reason for males. when they're gone you need to thouroly sanitize everything or you could be seeding many crops to come. Two problems with ruderellis, low thc and no control. Males are worth smoking.
 

Mrfootball420

Well-Known Member
The offer was probably more too show I'm not here to sell but rather teach. When the time comes lets talk before you go out spending your cash on equipment. If you have exsisting equipment we can see what we can put together. Provide me with a few pic's a blueprint of the space and I'll design a room for you with equipment that will fit your budget. I do NOT like tents, I much prefer to build a room from scratch, it doesn't have to be as complicated as some make it.

I haven't read ahead yet but I have no doubt they're waiting for me, probably bring friends too lol. Saddly it's not being paranoid just from experience. I'm done responding to any length, and will try very hard not to get pissed to a point I say to hell with it and just stop coming back. Being 6'6" and 280lbs I am not use to taking much shit from people. Having no agenda other then helping makes it all the more difficult to sit and take shit. To be honest I'm just wrapping up a project I've spent the last five years on and have some free time. My favorite thing to do is teach growing so this is like a vacation to me. For the life of me I don't get why some are hell bent on making waves.
hey, fuck`em!!!

i will stay in touch professor, thanks again.
 
Just stopping by to see if the professer came on, I almost got bored of riu until the professer came on now I check every half hour. Going crazy for this info. I appreciate all your help
Just stopping by to see if the professer came on, I almost got bored of riu until the professer came on now I check every half hour. Going crazy for this info. I appreciate all your help
Thank you very much. That my friend is why I do this. That and seeing the look on the face of someone who has sampled the fruits of my labor for the first time :-) I love that WTF look on the face of somebody who's feet won't listen to their brain. Get up fool, and the feet say You get up, and crank up the Floyd on your way out. lmfao, You know you've had enough of the professor herb when your hand won't grab the balloon of the volcano:-)

You just made this all worth while my friend, One Love
 
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