Professor Marijuana
New Member
Hi RedOctober (Favorite book) House and Garden is it's name, sorry I got that wrong, was a bit burned out and upset last night. It's a bit pricy but I believe it's well worth it. Their product adjust for each week of the growing cycle which makes damned good sence to me. There is a chart that explains exactly what to do with the nutes. I feed every 7 days, not 6, or 8, but every 7 days. I drain every two weeks like gospel. I do not like GH, just a personal thing.Thank you very much for the response Professor, I truly appreciate your sharing of valuable knowledge Those buds in your pic are out of this world. I'd love to be able to achieve results like that, in fact I'm making that my goal! Hopefully it wont take me 43 years though lol! I will give that C4 a try (mostly because you recommended it, but I'd be lying if I said that it wasn't in part because it has a cool name!). I hope you don't mind if I continue asking questions, but it's not every day that you get to study from a real veteran, and your answers made me think of some more stuff I wanted to ask
1. I'm not familiar with Home and Garden nutrients...the only search results I got from Google were for House and Garden so I wondered if that's what you meant? The ones from Amsterdam? Do you think it's worth special ordering? My grow store only carries GH and Foxfarm. Did you dislike GH because of inferior yields? Also would your nutes work for high pressure aero where you need 100% liquid, sediment free nutrients? {sorry, I just looked at the Aqua Flakes 2 part nutrient which seems to be designed for hydro/aero so I guess it would work}
2. When you say that you use a water chiller with added oxygen, how does that work? Are you pumping oxygen into the water somehow?
3. How do your nutrient formulas change from week to week? Any chance you could break it down? Like for instance for me, I use GH at a ratio of 2parts-1part-3parts Micro-Grow-Bloom for veg and 2-3-1 for flower. How do you do it? (I don't know if your nutrient line is a 2 part or 3 part formula)
4. With respect to cloning to get a great plant, you said you clone over 25 generations selecting and isolating the best 3 clones out of a hundred each time. This may sound rudimentary but, how do you know which the best clones are before they are fully flowered? And once they are fully flowered, isn't it too late to clone at that point? Or is your criteria different i.e. the fastest growing, or thickest stem or something?
5. Sorry for this one but...what do you do for spider mites? I'm battling the most viscous mite problem right now and I've thrown everything but the kitchen sink at em and they just laugh at me.
Thanks for all your time and effort, and please disregard the naysayers, they only serve to constrict the flow of knowledge.
I use a large water cooler in each 60 system. Look at it this way, the closer your lights are to the plants the better. That poses a problem however, heat. Even when you vent your lights they will emit some heat, cannabis plants are like little radiators, if the water you give them in a hydro system is chilled it keeps them cooler. Every little thing you can do to get lights closer is a plus. I have those new flexible air tubes in each resivour to oxygenate the water. It's the little details that seperate the great growers from the good growers.
Picking my three best clones is just something you get a feel for over time. It's not scientific more of a feel. I look for robust, semetrical, good colored plants that just seem to be the pick of the litter. As generations go by you will notice that your clones get better and better. By the time I got to the 25th generation they were just fantastic plants that were just superior to the plants I began with. Just look at what you have and pick what seems to be your best clones, it will pay off.
Mites, man. It is just a fact of life for growers. My grow rooms are completely sealed. I go to great lengths to seal them off, no air in, no air out. Lights are vented very well to avoid the need to exhaust. all seams are sealed, doors have air tight sweeps and edges. We follow certain protocols for entering. Never after touching plants outside or pets, clean clothes plus lab coats. Seems like over kill to some but we go for extended periods without mites, often entire grows. Prevention is the first thing. Cleanliness, we mop floors and walls and equipment with a ten percent bleach solution each week. I have issues with bombs, why would I put a carcenagin on medicine for cancer patients? Use a food safe product. The important thing about mite management is understanding their life cycle, in CO we got a new red mite a few years ago, it hatches every couple days and it's babies are ready to lay eggs as soon as the hatch. If you spray and then wait three days a new generation of mites has already been born and laid eggs. You need to spray every couple days five or six times in a row to kill living mites plus their off spring. It is worth the effort to stay alert and check every day for mites, as soon as you see them start treating them. It's very hard to kill them all off, management is the key. If your room has had a really bad infestation it may be worth shutting it down and cleaning top to bottom. The use bombs every two days repeating five times. Heppa filters on all air intake and paying attention to what you handle before entering and touching your plants. I've been testing items to use in the water to control mites, so far chilli powder seems to be the best. How does cyan kush sound? lol