jamiesname
Well-Known Member
Even if this weren't the case, it's not like giving your plant a fungus treatment would harm it. Worth a shot. If that's not it, then you can scratch it off the list.
Still Yellowing
- Thread starter Stride
- Start date
jamiesname
Well-Known Member
He posted a link to his thread, it's on page 2. I recommend only trying one thing at a time though. If this is in fact that cause you could easily overdo the N since it's not actually deficient to start with. Choose a couple leafs that are still green, but starting to turn yellow and watch them after the treatment. If after 3-4 days they are still turning yellow at the same rate as they were before the treatment add some N. If the yellowing has slowed noticibly, hold off and wait a few more days to see if it stops completely before adding N.
rocknratm
Well-Known Member
how many leaves are you actually losing? Some leaf loss is normal in flowering, Im not sure how far along you are.... anyways like other people said, if the ph is off, it wont matter how much nutes you add, they will be :locked out" and unabsorbable by the plant.
What water are you using? rain water? tap? I would recommend spring water if ur using bottled... but people on here say rain water is fine too. Even if you flushed it, unless the water was the correct ph then flushing it would not return the soil to the correct ph.
Or like the other guy said your not adding enough Nitrogen.... idk this is a tough one
tristynhawk
Well-Known Member
Pull off all infected foliage because it won't turn green again. Spray heavy and be sure to get the under sides of your leaves. I even spray the ground some around my plant's. But be sure to get all infection off of the plant before you spray, this help's to see if your getting improvement, and rid's the plant of diseased material. And he's probably right about the N don't burn it on top of this.
tristynhawk
Well-Known Member
Isn't tough at all to many people ignore this disease it's very common outdoor's.
d.c. beard
Well-Known Member
I really don't think this is the problem...but good luck with it!
jpockets420
Well-Known Member
Your thinking too much! lol. Its just a plant and it seems like you having been dodging around the problem thinking its an N deficiency lol. Alaska fish fertilizer has enough N in it but not enough of the other nutrients that a flowering plant needs. You should have it on a good bloom fertilizer so it gets the proper N P K and micronutrients. Yellowing leaves is found in more deficiencies than just N deficiency. I suggest you stop everything, take a deep breath and look at the cannabis nutrient disorder table which can be googled and go by that or before you know it you will take everybody's advice and kill your plant lol.
d.c. beard
Well-Known Member
Exactly, which is why I said it looks more like a potassium or maybe phosphorus deficiency!
jamiesname
Well-Known Member
He said he's using one in his other thread. He's been adding N in addition to the bloom nutes.
Stride
Active Member
Alright guys I have updated the post with pictures that I literally just took right now. Can I get some more input now that I have some recent pictures of my problems? They are two different plants obviously you can tell which is which by the different pots. Thanks guys. Also im thinking maybe its not a N issue because notice how the tops of my plants are DARK green? Im thinking maybe its something else now besides the N deficiency that is soo easily thrown around. Could it be a sulfer deficiency?
tommyo3000
Well-Known Member
Still looks like N deficiency.. It will take a few days for the plant to recover.. Yellow stuff will not green up. Look at the new growth to see what is going on from here onward
tristynhawk
Well-Known Member
guess it wasn't ;leaf spot huh?
jamiesname
Well-Known Member
It's going to take a few days before you'll have your answer. From the pics, the plants don't look like they're too bad off right now so a couple days wont be an issue. If they are still getting worse by Monday morning try something else. Do a google image search of different deficiencies and match them to yours. No matter how good the pic nobody will be able to see the details of the leaves like you, nor do they know the history of the plant. I will keep checking back a couple times a day to see if there's any progress.
Forgive me if you've already answered this. I've read this thread and your other one a couple times and I don't remember ever reading anything about your PH, other than you - or someone else, saying that it isn't a PH issue. What is the PH of the runoff water? A cheap swimming pool PH testing kit from Wal Mart runs less than $10 if I remember right.
Forgive me if you've already answered this. I've read this thread and your other one a couple times and I don't remember ever reading anything about your PH, other than you - or someone else, saying that it isn't a PH issue. What is the PH of the runoff water? A cheap swimming pool PH testing kit from Wal Mart runs less than $10 if I remember right.
jamiesname
Well-Known Member
I just checked over your other thread. No mention of the PH, and I noticed that you're growing these things in 3 gal pots which are about half full of soil. A good rule of thumb is one gallon of soil per foot of plant. If your plant is root bound it's going to have issues absorbing nutes as well.
Loosen the rootball by gently hitting the sides of the pot a few times all around it. Pull the sides of the pot away from the soil so that you can see a gap between the soil and the pots. Do this all around it as well. Finally once it's loose grab the plant at its base and pull up. If the entire contents of the pot lifts up then that is most likely part of the problem - if not the problem itself. Three foot plants in about a gallon and a half of soil is asking for trouble. Still do the PH test though. We need to know for sure. Making a mistake will be costly.
Loosen the rootball by gently hitting the sides of the pot a few times all around it. Pull the sides of the pot away from the soil so that you can see a gap between the soil and the pots. Do this all around it as well. Finally once it's loose grab the plant at its base and pull up. If the entire contents of the pot lifts up then that is most likely part of the problem - if not the problem itself. Three foot plants in about a gallon and a half of soil is asking for trouble. Still do the PH test though. We need to know for sure. Making a mistake will be costly.
jamiesname
Well-Known Member
Awsome. After a couple weeks they will be able to absorb nutes way better. Now just to wait and see if the yellowing slows down and eventually stops. As someone already stated, the yellow and/or dying leaves will not come back, or turn green again. One problem is that it takes two weeks at the least for a plant to get over the stress of being transplanted and begin to stretch its roots, so you can expect to wait that long before the yellowing slows. You'll know once the plant has gotten over the stress though because it will take off like a mother fucker. Keep us posted on the progress, especially if things take a turn for the worst.