Molasses doesnt do anything

[jpill]

sugars are good

 

[Brick Top]

I used it last harvest and you can definately taste it,

Plants do not take up compound elements. For a plant to take something up it has to be broken down into ions. Once broken down into ions it is no longer the same substance, not the same compound element.

Do you believe that once molasses has been broken down it is taken up in the form of ions and then reconstituted within plants so it is once again in it's previous form, so it could then be tasted when buds are smoked and recognized as being molasses?

 

[Bwpz]

Plants do not take up compound elements. For a plant to take something up it has to be broken down into ions. Once broken down into ions it is no longer the same substance, not the same compound element.

Do you believe that once molasses has been broken down it is taken up in the form of ions and then reconstituted within plants so it is once again in it's previous form, so it could then be tasted when buds are smoked and recognized as being molasses?

It doesn't affect the taste. If it does, it's because it provided certain micro nutrients to make it healthier, and that's what you taste, not molasses.

 

[tftx22]

Plants do not take up compound elements. For a plant to take something up it has to be broken down into ions. Once broken down into ions it is no longer the same substance, not the same compound element.

Do you believe that once molasses has been broken down it is taken up in the form of ions and then reconstituted within plants so it is once again in it's previous form, so it could then be tasted when buds are smoked and recognized as being molasses?

I've been wondering the same thing forever, thank you for lifting the veil. I knew all I was doing was changing the ph or something wrong, my soil was yellow and my plants were just left hanging until I literally had to flush the yellow muck out or face lost crop. I believe it's a micro fert and nothing else and a poor one at that. What is your take on this?

 

[Brick Top]

Originally Posted by Brick Top
Plants do not take up compound elements. For a plant to take something up it has to be broken down into ions. Once broken down into ions it is no longer the same substance, not the same compound element.

Do you believe that once molasses has been broken down it is taken up in the form of ions and then reconstituted within plants so it is once again in it's previous form, so it could then be tasted when buds are smoked and recognized as being molasses?

It doesn't affect the taste. If it does, it's because it provided certain micro nutrients to make it healthier, and that's what you taste, not molasses.

I would not argue that, but then I was responding to what is below, where it was said it could be tasted. What was said is "it" could be tasted, "definitely." The topic is molasses so "it" could only be molasses that was said could "definitely" be tasted. The statement was not that the taste is improved by using molasses. It said "you can definitely taste it." I said how anything given to plants has to be broken down into ion form for plants to take it in and how once that was done it is no longer the same substance as prior to being broken down, that it would no longer be molasses, and would not be reconstituted in plants to then be molasses again so the molasses taste could be tasted.

You told me something I have long known and was saying myself, though in different words than you. Your message should have been directed at grannybonger, not me.

Originally Posted by grannybonger
I used it last harvest and you can definately taste it,

 

[Msdebbielee]

I know I'm just a newbie but I did do a bit of research. I'm just one of those people who don't do things without knowing the mechanics of it or a better understanding than most. And according to everything I read Jack Harer hit it right on the head. It's 100% for the mirco's in the soil. They break it down into usuable forms and it's such a boost to the roots. Lots of happy micro's mean that when you do use the nute's that the plants are ready and able to handle more nutes than normal. Even though it hasn't been mentioned yet the big thing in molasses is the blackstrap unsulfered molasses. Don't waste your time having to go some place special to get it. The only difference between blackstrap and reg's unsulfred )like "Grandma's unsulfered" is reduction. blackstrap has gone threw one more reduction than reg. So it's only a matter of how concentrated it is. This is explained well by going to the site for Grandma's molasses. So if your going to use it, do yourself a favor and just get it off the shelf at your grocery store and use double the 2tlbs or even wiser start there and work your way up to where you can tell a difference. That's what we did and we saw explosive growth for the next 4-8 days. and this generation is growing like hhmmm weeds?? You always can go looking for a nursery or feedstore that has it and pay 3x the price and 4x the hassle for something your going to reconstitue anyway. oh and just my opinion.

 

[tokenbrownguy]

and what is the soil for ?????????????

Hmmmm...well, if you wish to get technical, the soil is a vessel, if you will, in which any plant can use for nutrition. But, this can be said of ALL mediums such as hydro, Aero, etc...but I wouldn't recommend using molasss in hydro...or Aero...molasses is for the organisms in the soil. Lets not dilute the correct information with a surplus of hypothesis ans myths. The information presented in my first anwser is accurate and correct. I stand by it, and welcome you to research and provide evidence of your rebuttal.

 

[Beansly]

OBVIOUSLY THATS NOT A MASTER GROWER.

Remember everyone thinks they are grandmaster, but it only until you consistently hit 1.5 gram to watt. By the way I do 1.5 g/w in SOIL/Coir both so I can call bullshit.

If you read this this is a newbs site Full of false info.

This makes as much sense as not flushin. IDIOTS

MY GRAND MASTER IS JORGE CERVANTES, Ed Rosentiahl and Dr Danko

They all make movies, write books and colomuns that literally change the entire field.


THEY TRUMP YOUR PRO....Bro

Listen to real pros.

Try THC Farmer for way better advice.

Maybe you should spend more time on this 'newb site' cause your shit is ALL fucked up son lol.
Molasses is used in organic gardening to feed the microbes in the medium. Without sugars/carbohydrates to eat, the microbes die. You need microbes so that they can break down the organic matter in the medium so that it's available to the plant.
If you use chemical fertilizers then, no you don't need molasses because the food is provided to your plant directly. Chemical fertilizers kill microbes anyways.
It was mislead for J.Cervantes to put that picture in his book of the bud that was 20% heavier in the plant that used molasses cause now people think it's a bloom booster. It's not. If anything it can cause nitrogen deficiencies if used too much.
Molasses are best used in compost/manure teas, in soil/soilless mediums or coco in organic gardening.

 

[homebrewer]

Molasses is used in organic gardening to feed the microbes in the medium. Without sugars/carbohydrates to eat, the microbes die. You need microbes so that they can break down the organic matter in the medium so that it's available to the plant.

The roots of the plant have a symbiotic relationship with the microbes so additional sugars are not need, though additional doses could be beneficial to an extent.

Chemical fertilizers kill microbes anyways.

Do you have a reference for this statement?

 

[The*Mad*Hatter]

seems to me that the short age of useing molassas is soon to pass..........we will be talking about this years from now..........


member when our dumb asses put syrup in our soil!!in hopes our buds would tast better with breatfast........ god we were dumb





but i admit, i am a user.........it defently dosent hurt the plant at all so............ALL I GOT TO SAY, IS IF THE PLANT LOOKS TOP NOTCH HEALTHY, YOUR OBVIOUSLY DOING MORE THINGS RIGHT THEN WRONG...........

 

[VICTORYGARDENSHYDRO]

OBVIOUSLY THATS NOT A MASTER GROWER.

Remember everyone thinks they are grandmaster, but it only until you consistently hit 1.5 gram to watt. By the way I do 1.5 g/w in SOIL/Coir both so I can call bullshit.

If you read this this is a newbs site Full of false info.

This makes as much sense as not flushin. IDIOTS

MY GRAND MASTER IS JORGE CERVANTES, Ed Rosentiahl and Dr Danko

They all make movies, write books and colomuns that literally change the entire field.


THEY TRUMP YOUR PRO....Bro

Listen to real pros.

Try THC Farmer for way better advice.

your whole statement says your a rookie. just because someone writes a book, doesn't mean they know everything on a subject or are a MASTER GROWER, it just means they figured out a way to make money off gullible people.
and flushing in soil is for IDIOTS.

 

[Beansly]

The roots of the plant have a symbiotic relationship with the microbes so additional sugars are not need, though additional doses could be beneficial to an extent.

Do you have a reference for this statement?

I don't because I figured it was well known that salts kill microorganisms. I'm not a biology buff but I'll try and back up my statement with facts if you give me a moment.

 

[Beansly]

Artificial synthetic nitrogen (fertilizers) has been found to reduce insect and disease resistance of plants (Soil Scientist, USDA). Numerous studies have now confirmed that the use of artificial fertilizers significantly increase the amount of insects and disease problems one has.

Synthetic fertilizers use strong chemical salts used to carry nutrients that create a thatch buildup by killing both microorganisms and earthworms in the soil that eat and breakdown thatch. Thick layers of thatch (high lignin content) create a fertile breeding ground for diseases and destructive insects unlike mulch.

Excess salts used in synthetic fertilizers cause 2 problems. First, they reduce the moisture holding ability of soils and cause what moisture is present to be bound more tightly to the soil making it harder for plants to absorb. Second, also salt exposure reduces a plants roots ability to absorb water even if the soil is fully saturated. Since most commercial fertilizers are composed of soluble salts (ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride, etc.) and as these salt build up in the soil more water (irrigation) is required, the plants are weaker and more susceptible to insects and disease hence require more pesticides, fungicides, etc.

# A few common artificial salt based fertilizers.
NaNO3 - "sodium nitrate or nitrate of soda", contains 16% Nitrogen, very soluble hence leaches easily and pollutes (not good for conifers or hardwoods).
NH3NO3 (NH4NO3) - Ammonium nitrate, 33.5% nitrogen (50% in nitrate form & 50% in Ammonium form), highly soluble hence leaches and pollutes lakes and streams. Also flammable and can explode if stored in a closed warehouse. Also absorbs water. Commonly used in nurseries, may also be used as a top dressing, acidifies soil. Kills soil microbes that prevent diseases.
(NH4)2SO4 - "ammonium sulfate", source of N and S, can acidify soil, may be used as a top dressing, kills microbes in the soil that prevents disease.
CO(NH2)2 - "urea", nitrogen loss by volatilization can be a problem, dissolves rapidly and suffers leaching losses.
KNO3 - "potassium Nitrate or nitrate of potash", 13% nitrogen (not good for trees as a N source, may be okay for K), raises soil pH
CaNo3 - Calcium nitrate, 15% nitrogen, raises soil pH
Anhydrous Ammonia - 82% nitrogen, a particularly lethal form of nitrogen, combines with soil moisture to form colloids that stay in soil, when applied to soils low in humus over 2/3 (67%) can be lost to the atmosphere

 

[Jack Harer]

your whole statement says your a rookie. just because someone writes a book, doesn't mean they know everything on a subject or are a MASTER GROWER, it just means they figured out a way to make money off gullible people.
and flushing in soil is for IDIOTS.

Well said! (Except for the Idiot part) Just because someone is famous doesn't make them the final word, although I'd be hard pressed to debunk any of the guys he mentioned. Just because someone SAYS they get 1.5 per watt doesn't make it true either, even if they say it in caps. It's easy to brag on the internet, with no real way to be debunked.

Molasses plays a good part in any organic regimen for those who choose to use it. There IS a good reason to flush soil, if you are using chemical ferts, to rinse out the accumulated salts that build up. You cannot flush out organic matter, so it's a non-issue in organic grows. In MY opinion, chemical ferts belong in a Hydroponic environment where build up of salts isn't an issue, and they really have no place in soil, where organic fertilizers are scientifically proven to be the best option. There are basically 2 methods of growing, hydro and soil. Chemicals belong in hydro, organics belong in dirt. Trying to HYBRIDIZE the 2 is wrong IMHO. The overuse of chemical ferts has resulted in the massive degradation of our once fertile soils.
The PRO the guy is referring to is OBVIOUSLY wrong.

 

[zvuv]

Here's a summary of the thread so far....

Molasses is worthless
Molasses is da shizz
You're obviously a noob
You're obviously not a master grower
Yeah well you're a troll
That so? I have 397 posts you only have 396 hahahaha get lost noobie.
I read your 397th post and it doesnt count because it was bullshit
Yeah well your face...
Oh yeah ? Your momma...
Molasses is da shizz
Molasses is worthless
Is too!
Is not!

Just a suggestion: How about we stick to molasses and avoid the mud?


.....

 

[homebrewer]

Artificial synthetic nitrogen (fertilizers) has been found to reduce insect and disease resistance of plants (Soil Scientist, USDA). Numerous studies have now confirmed that the use of artificial fertilizers significantly increase the amount of insects and disease problems one has.

Synthetic fertilizers use strong chemical salts used to carry nutrients that create a thatch buildup by killing both microorganisms and earthworms in the soil that eat and breakdown thatch. Thick layers of thatch (high lignin content) create a fertile breeding ground for diseases and destructive insects unlike mulch.

Excess salts used in synthetic fertilizers cause 2 problems. First, they reduce the moisture holding ability of soils and cause what moisture is present to be bound more tightly to the soil making it harder for plants to absorb. Second, also salt exposure reduces a plants roots ability to absorb water even if the soil is fully saturated. Since most commercial fertilizers are composed of soluble salts (ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride, etc.) and as these salt build up in the soil more water (irrigation) is required, the plants are weaker and more susceptible to insects and disease hence require more pesticides, fungicides, etc.

# A few common artificial salt based fertilizers.
NaNO3 - "sodium nitrate or nitrate of soda", contains 16% Nitrogen, very soluble hence leaches easily and pollutes (not good for conifers or hardwoods).
NH3NO3 (NH4NO3) - Ammonium nitrate, 33.5% nitrogen (50% in nitrate form & 50% in Ammonium form), highly soluble hence leaches and pollutes lakes and streams. Also flammable and can explode if stored in a closed warehouse. Also absorbs water. Commonly used in nurseries, may also be used as a top dressing, acidifies soil. Kills soil microbes that prevent diseases.
(NH4)2SO4 - "ammonium sulfate", source of N and S, can acidify soil, may be used as a top dressing, kills microbes in the soil that prevents disease.
CO(NH2)2 - "urea", nitrogen loss by volatilization can be a problem, dissolves rapidly and suffers leaching losses.
KNO3 - "potassium Nitrate or nitrate of potash", 13% nitrogen (not good for trees as a N source, may be okay for K), raises soil pH
CaNo3 - Calcium nitrate, 15% nitrogen, raises soil pH
Anhydrous Ammonia - 82% nitrogen, a particularly lethal form of nitrogen, combines with soil moisture to form colloids that stay in soil, when applied to soils low in humus over 2/3 (67%) can be lost to the atmosphere

Where is this info from? They're using the terms like 'strong chemical salts' and 'excess salts' and 'buildup' which sounds like they're drawing conclusions from over-fertilization.

 

[donutpunched]

I tried mollasses in My hydro system..... I checked the roots about 5 days later and I had grown huge balls of slime... Thank God the plants were days from being chopped.... So I hear people use it in Hydro, but it definately caused some issues in my setup....

 

[Bwpz]

I tried mollasses in My hydro system..... I checked the roots about 5 days later and I had grown huge balls of slime... Thank God the plants were days from being chopped.... So I hear people use it in Hydro, but it definately caused some issues in my setup....

I've heard that molasses shouldn't be used in Hydro, it'd clog stuff up and everything.

 

[T Ray]

The roots of the plant have a symbiotic relationship with the microbes so additional sugars are not need, though additional doses could be beneficial to an extent.

Do you have a reference for this statement?

This is from the book "TEAMING WITH MICROBES" Written by Jeff Lowenfels ( "A member of the Garden Writers of America Hall of Fame, he is a leading proponent of gardening using the concepts of the soil food web." http://www.amazon.com/Jeff-Lowenfels/e/B001JS55S4 ) and Wayne Lewis

http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/gardening/160366-teaming-microbes.html

"Negative impacts on the soil food web

Chemical fertilizers negatively impact the soil food web by killing off
entire portions of it. What gardener hasn't seen what table salt does
to a slug? Fertilizers are salts; they suck the water out of the
bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes in the soil. Since these
microbes are at the very foundation of the soil food web nutrient
system, you have to keep adding fertilizer once you start using it
regularly. The microbiology is missing and not there to do its job,
feeding the plants."

Jeff Lowenfel's has wrote many many times that the synthetic salts/fertilizers kills the micro's.

And to the OP I understand the plant itself doesn't benefit directly from the sugar's, but I do think if you use organic's that sugar's at the end are definitely beneficial to feeding the micro's which then in turn, feed your plants.

 

[chasmtz]

its funny to hear people talk about using molasses as an organic substance for the microbes to feed on.... You must have some really shitty soil if you have to introduce organic matter for the microbes to feed on. Nearly any(purchased/potting) soil has enough organic matter for the microbes to feed on for at least one grow cycle, if not 2 or 3. I'm not disputing any claims that molasses feeds the microbes, I'm just saying that if you are getting better results by using molasses, then you should re-think your medium.