True HP Aero For 2011

Trichy Bastard said:
That doens't sound right, unless the force which it shot out caused it to mix with air, or perhaps your bladder has burst and is "carbonating" the water. Carbon dioxide does effect ph, and if it were happening it would lower your ph I believe as it's a basic element- acid rain. I remember reading posts by John Guest stating that nutes are stable for weeks in the tank. If the ph is rising, then that sounds like calcium precipitate in the tank perhaps, which does occur in heat (which happens in pressure). Do you filter your nutes with a 1 micron or so filter prior to the tank, or after? I honestly don't know if the filter woould make an absolute difference, but it logically seems like it would help. To be honest- I never checked the ph of my nutes after the tank, only in the res, now I will have to check.
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I filter before the tank, and I'm pretty sure my bladder hasn't burst. Heat while pressuring up I'd have to say is very minimal, as the aquatec doesn't even get noticably warm. The tank & res are right next to each other, so ambient heat would be pretty close. I don't have my acc insulated. Maybe it is heating up more than my res, which is insulated...
 
Ran into the same problem with a accumulator my filter would get a white slim on it got rid of the filter and accumulator and use a 75 micron bucket filter for a return to res tank and also using a 40 micron screen filter from the pump to nozzles no more slim and no more clogged nozzles
 
I had never cracked my filter open before. Just did, and there was a very light slime towards the bottom of the filter, but not anything I'd consider abnormal. I've seen the real slime, and that shit aint right. I treated the cartridge with a lil bleach since I had it open. I haven't had trouble with a single nozzle clog that couldn't have been prevented. When you release JG tubing from a fitting, the blades in the fitting can shave off tiny bits of tubing, like a cheese grater. Those can then make their way into your nozzle. Not cool. Also, it's a good idea to cut bits off the end of your tubing, if you've taken fittings on & off many times. They will silp!
 
Mike Young said:
Anybody have ideas as to why my ph in my pressure tank rises (fairly quickly), while the same nute mix remains stable in my res. Build-up is the only thing I can think, but my res should have just as much build-up as my bladder. Don't get it...
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I noticed your acc is in your grow room whats the temp in the room? might having something to do with it?
Trichy Bastard said:
If you want to know if you need to replace the probe, why not test it against the calibration solution, rather than setting an absolute schedule on it? There is a membrane on the probe which must stay hydrated, or it will give false readings. My hanna dried out, and I soaked it in my nute solution for a few hours and it started working fine again, although they recommend soaking it in their storage solution for that purpose.
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how do you recaliberate the ph pen? mine says 8.2 when i put it in the 7.0 ph pen solution?

hammer21 said:
Ran into the same problem with a accumulator my filter would get a white slim on it got rid of the filter and accumulator and use a 75 micron bucket filter for a return to res tank and also using a 40 micron screen filter from the pump to nozzles no more slim and no more clogged nozzles
Click to expand...

so your running a pump only sytem? no acc? and no solenoids?
 
I just transfered my girls into the 4x8 flowering tent and have them at 100 psi now. Im going to wire the sesto timer on a night cycle and the 422 on the day cycle. for now i have the 422 solely running the sites. howmany 120 vac solenoids can I take off of the 422? and the sesto? I have 4 buckets, 2 aero sites at each bucket would you guys recc a solenoid at each mister or 1 solenoid per bucket?
 
Mike Young said:
DH.
Ok, so my solenoids are connected to 3 & 6 and are the black & yellow wires. The power comes in at 2 & 7 (white wires) and gets a jumper to 1 & 8 (green & red) Hope this helps. I do advise you get a stronger power supply. It might work now, but the potential for fail is not worth it.

View attachment 1953420

hey mike is this dc? I need to plug mine into the wall. I wired it just like this and it seems to be working but want to make sure this is right? thanks
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I run 12 120 vac solenoids they are 316 stainless with 0.300 orifice also I run 3/4" line from my res tank then into 2 stainless screen filters in parallel then to 1/2" to my pump and 1/2" out of my pump then to a stainless check valve then to a stainless precision pressure switch then I split the 1/2" to 3/8" to each solenoid then 1/4" to each nozzle
 
Mike Young said:
I filter before the tank, and I'm pretty sure my bladder hasn't burst. Heat while pressuring up I'd have to say is very minimal, as the aquatec doesn't even get noticably warm. The tank & res are right next to each other, so ambient heat would be pretty close. I don't have my acc insulated. Maybe it is heating up more than my res, which is insulated...
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There is heat to do with physics, when you increase pressure it gets quite hot for a split second which you personally wouldn't notice- believe it or not, when there is cavitation around a boat prop the water gets incredibly hot for a microsecond (google it)- it actually melts pits into the prop. It can be enough to cause calcium to precipitate and form deposits I believe- but how much and if it would be noticeable I have no idea.
 
dickkhead said:
I noticed your acc is in your grow room whats the temp in the room? might having something to do with it?


how do you recaliberate the ph pen? mine says 8.2 when i put it in the 7.0 ph pen solution?



so your running a pump only sytem? no acc? and no solenoids?
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totally depends on your brand of meter- look at the instructions/google is your friend...
 
Mike Young said:
I filter before the tank, and I'm pretty sure my bladder hasn't burst. Heat while pressuring up I'd have to say is very minimal, as the aquatec doesn't even get noticably warm. The tank & res are right next to each other, so ambient heat would be pretty close. I don't have my acc insulated. Maybe it is heating up more than my res, which is insulated...
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Mike, now I'm thinking the slime is changing your ph. I think a few drops of bleach will really help you out man. That white stuff could be some kind of crudd growing... 6 drops/gallon works great.
 
dickkhead said:
I just transfered my girls into the 4x8 flowering tent and have them at 100 psi now. Im going to wire the sesto timer on a night cycle and the 422 on the day cycle. for now i have the 422 solely running the sites. howmany 120 vac solenoids can I take off of the 422? and the sesto? I have 4 buckets, 2 aero sites at each bucket would you guys recc a solenoid at each mister or 1 solenoid per bucket?
Click to expand...
Nice- I need a seperate day/night cycle as well... You can generally put more solenoids than you'll ever need, the limiting factor will be the power supplying the solenoids, but (if) they're wall voltage I wouldn't worry much- if they are powered by a transformer then check the manufacturer's rating on the watts each solenoid draws, and make sure the power supply can provide the power (I use a 12v battery and its capable of 900 amps- but my solenoids draw 20 watts each- you can goole watts/amps/voltage conversion). A solenoid for every nozzle is most ideal, a few inches away from the mister, but I think it's more economical to do one per bucket if the misters are only a foot or two apart with very little degradation in mist control.
 
hammer21 said:
I run 12 120 vac solenoids they are 316 stainless with 0.300 orifice also I run 3/4" line from my res tank then into 2 stainless screen filters in parallel then to 1/2" to my pump and 1/2" out of my pump then to a stainless check valve then to a stainless precision pressure switch then I split the 1/2" to 3/8" to each solenoid then 1/4" to each nozzle
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Good to see you Hammer! I don't know if it makes a difference, but I use a 1 micron whole house cartridge filter and it works good. I feel secure no particles are in my system big enough to cause any issues.
 
dickkhead said:
Mike Young said:
DH.
Ok, so my solenoids are connected to 3 & 6 and are the black & yellow wires. The power comes in at 2 & 7 (white wires) and gets a jumper to 1 & 8 (green & red) Hope this helps. I do advise you get a stronger power supply. It might work now, but the potential for fail is not worth it.

View attachment 1953420

hey mike is this dc? I need to plug mine into the wall. I wired it just like this and it seems to be working but want to make sure this is right? thanks
Click to expand...

is this ok tB I ran a 15 amp plug into 2&7 for the power then jumped the power from 2&1 and then a jumper from 7&8 then my solenoid i wired at 3&6 is this ok?
Click to expand...
 
Trichy Bastard said:
If you want to know if you need to replace the probe, why not test it against the calibration solution, rather than setting an absolute schedule on it? There is a membrane on the probe which must stay hydrated, or it will give false readings. My hanna dried out, and I soaked it in my nute solution for a few hours and it started working fine again, although they recommend soaking it in their storage solution for that purpose.
Click to expand...

I was fastidious about keeping the tip wet, but not Calibrating
 
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