Guile
Active Member
Yes ozone kills the smell, and probably affect's the flavor (I've never compared side by side). I probably should look into Co2 again, I've encountered some interesting sounding experiments recently involving Co2 (that could make other applications more feasible).I agree, cleanliness is key, but I wouldnt keep any water anywhere near the growing cultures, even bleach water.
Ozone will steal your terpine profile in a grow room, not a good idea except for maybe exhaust, if you dont have a sealed grow.
the t5 lamp inside the tent keeps temps around 70-80, esily maintained in a tent, in a closet, in my lab room, which is climate controlled, and also where traditional cloning was taking place.
lowering humidity and increasing air flow is what will stop bud rot in its tracks, very effectively.
My opinion, 99% of my mold failures in vitro are due to infected explant material, not the pressure cooker, or room, or tools. everything is flamed off before coming in contact with another specimen. the jars, once taped up, have been impenetrable thusfar to any mites or mold, here, since moving inside tent a year ago. more failures were seen when the grow chamber was on a shelf in a room, but not one jar has gone moldy (in the tent) if they've made it for 5 days without. dirty explants cause me mold within the first few days of transfer, occasionally. and I have killed explants with bleach, alcohol trying to achieve this issue, until last year when I got good at it. I used to transfer inside a sterile zip lock, with the vessel and tools inside ! that worked very well for me, as my head could see the view from the top, very helpful with timy bits.
I like the "mote" with the two bins, but believe its overkill. 10,000 ppm(bottle of C02) for a couple hours will kill every living bug in your room, and please your plants. repeated with the breeding cycle of mites(or any pest) will rid the garden for good....then, dont take in stranger clones, unless tissue cultured, of course !!
In the meanwhile Ozone seems like a decent way to keep a "clean room" "sterile" (or atleast as clean as possible). Besides I think Co2 is heavy and might escape under the sides of your plastic tent before reaching lethal concentrations at the highest surface in the room (or atleast take alot of bottled gas to do it)
I use a 500cfm exhaust fan and multiple low lying inlets (both inside and out, for temp control reasons). I manage heat the best I can without phase change cooling systems. I think my biggest problem is humidity and of coarse I have been putting off getting a phase change dehumidifier.
This is probably going to sound cheap (even coming from me) but I can't stand running big power through my grow room.. I hate the kind of power my lights eat up and I run relatively low light density by many peoples standards. I'm looking forward to building a greenhouse this spring, (damn near makes me horny thinking about my ladies laying out in the sun)..
I like the idea of having a dedicated micro environment to work in, (but I also like working with my bare hands in plane view) I could defiantly see the advantages to making a box like you describe. You could probably use some kind of chemical (or cleaning) glove band clamped to a ring (drain pipe?) epoxied around an arm hole on the inside. If you used Polly-carb panels and the right epoxy you could tailor build the box to your own specifications (though I would probably build 4-5 of the 6 sides out of plywood coated with a thick coat of an oil based enamel paint (like Rustoleum) and alot of silicone calking at the seams (despite copious amounts of epoxy). the top (only opening part) could be as simple as a sheet of poly-carb, a piano hinge, some weather stripping, and some kind of locking mechanism (or weight to hold it shut)..
I could also see building it from a $30 stock tank.. I use these for reservoirs and they are well built.. If you buy 2, you could nest them with water heaters in-between so you can better control temperatures (make the cords come out through the arm holes and things should fit tighter together).
Not even sure "mote" is the best description, that seems to imply that the liquid is exposed.. I'm more of less trying to use water to vacuum pack 2 totes together, if it could be sealed well enough I'm sure you would never have to worry about water loss, but where the wires from the fish tank heaters will prevent a seal I'm willing to speculate that you could need a topping off eventually. I've used a similar method to warm my cloneing/propagation flats..