++Hellraizers++ DO AND DONTs and in and outs of the ebb&grow/ebb&flow systems
- Thread starter hellraizer30
- Start date
Chopsticks33
Active Member
wassup hellraizer, thanks for helping me on this. Ok so this is my 4th attempt on doing 6 inch rw on 4x8 flood table. I feed 3x daily. once hr after light on, 2nd mid day and 3rd one hr before light off. girls r started yellowing again. lower fan leaf r getting yellow and plant kinda light green. i use sensi grow a and b with ph perfect from advance nutes. b52, cal mag, and monster grow. about 800ppm. I also add heis tea straight to rw and 1cup per 10 gal on res. water temp r about 72-73 because of my 120w air pump blowing hot air to res. I just started using a powerful air pump. before my water stay around 68-69 and i still had that problem. I flood about 1inch and take about 5-8min to drain. Im so tired to root rot. it seem to happen every time. I know people with dirty ass grow room with ton of spider mite and still about to pull 1lb per 1000w. idont what in doing wrong..maybe i should go soil?
Warlock1369
Well-Known Member
Yellow is N or mag diffent. Your using cal mag do my guess would be N. Each plant strain is different some need more of things some need less. Like mine I can fallow what I did with my OG but need to add K for my MK. And less P for the NL.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Yellowing from the bottom up is a Nitrogen def. i would up your base nutes (seni grow A/B) 800ppm without the sups
then add your sups for a total of 1000 to 1100ppm, also add sensi cal A
for bloom you need to use seni bloom A/B seting your base ppm at 800 to 900ppm then add sups dont go over 1200ppm
also start using sensi cal B
if im reading this right you only use sensi grow a/b with b52, cal mag and monster grow
stop using the cal mag and get seni cal a and b
stop using the monster grow
Heres a fast break down of what you should be using
sensi grow A and B.
sensi bloom A and B
b-52
sensi cal A and B
once you get your npk problem worked out then start looking at them roots
they look stained from the tea so stop thinking its root rot! I dont see a issue.
Chopsticks33
Active Member
would it be ok to flood longer since i have 120w air pump in res? there are alot of DO oxygen in water. i know for dwc the root stay in water and grow mad root cuz alot of DO oxygen in water..should i flood for 20-30min?
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Chopsticks33
Active Member
Warlock1369
Well-Known Member
Could be nute lock. Your roots don't match the plants. What is your ph? And are you useing bennies or h2o2? Ether way I would say 24 hour flush with h2o2 at 3ml/gal. Then start back at 1/2 nutes. You could be to high in a field locking out the rest. So that's the only Reason I say flush.
Chopsticks33
Active Member
24hr straight? how should i flood it? im currently flooding 1 inch or less...I did a 3hr flush with RO water and ho2o 2 week ago
Warlock1369
Well-Known Member
24 hours set at your normal feeding times. I'm having the same issue right now with my veg table. Flushing every 2 weeks and stoped useing hygrozyme. Useing just tea. And it's helping. The ph was a big desider on this. With tea I got the ph undercontrol in 2 days. Zyme it would go to 8 in a day. I got something growing in my system. But bennies are working best. As I type thus I'm flushing out the h2o2 with RO water an alot of N. Then clean that out and add tea with my nutes.
Warlock1369
Well-Known Member
I do use both. Hygrozyme and tea. 2 weeks each. This is working good in flower but not in veg. I will be going all tea after zyme is gone. Not tossing $100 bucks away when it's doing good. But if I see a drop it will be gone in flower as well. I'm trying to use as little as needed. So it is experimenting to a point. So far 1 cup of tea is 10x better then the zyme per gallon.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
We need to know what your ph is? Are you up to speed on what ph is?
Chopsticks33
Active Member
my ph is around 6.0. i think sensi a and b ph perfect keep it around 6.0 that is what hydro store guy says. in veg they root stay bright white until around 2nd week of flowering. i use the same veg for the first 2 week of flower, exacting the same. I veg for 1 month and no problem at all. i dont know wuts going on...i use monster grow also and it got really high N. my ppm around 600-800 on veg and first 2 week of flower.
georgeforeman
Well-Known Member
When you transplant into hydroton, how far do you bury the rockwool? Is it below flood level? If it is above flood level, do you hand water until the roots grow down into the hydroton?
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Stop using sensi grow during pre flower and start using sensi bloom!
bloom is for when you switch to 12/12
and grow is for veg
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
When i i was using tron i would set the block to where the top of the block was even with the surface of the tron
you dont want to place it deep cause it waists medium! Roots grow out and down better than up!
Chopsticks33
Active Member
Ok i will switch it. i only have dutch master gold a and b. will that he good enough? Since i am have N def. will by switching it to flower nutes fix my problem?
Im 5th week in. should i just start new?
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
No keep this one going! Just get the bloom nutes going... Go buy sensi bloom a/b
yellow leaves onces yellow will not turn green again
Chopsticks33
Active Member
I started a new batch the past 1 1/2 week. This time put the 6x6x6 inch rw cube in 8 inch pot sitting on hydroton. Its sitting on about 2 inch hydroton . Im feeding 3x day and doing all the good info from this thread. I was feeding veg notes untill today. I notice new fan leaf on bottom of plants getting really yellow again. its completely yellow and plant really pale. room temp are about high 80s with 1400 ppm co2. i notice little nute burn i boost it up to 1200. wow growing can be this hard! i will update some picture. I hate to see this batch go down like before the past years!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4eukbMk83Y&feature=g-upl thats the video that taught me how to build a one plant ebb and flow system. It teaches the basice concepts and can be adapted to larger operations with a few changes in materials.