World Of Hempy

smoothness

Active Member
Nobody knows.

Its difficult to say that one medium is 'better' than another. Personal preference has a lot to do with it.
i know that but like is easy of use easier for a newbie like me? i heard hempy himself uses coco coir now. something thats as forgiving as possible but not soil...
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Dalhi Hempy does use coco now..and his teachings are the #1 reason I went hempy coco.....but when asked on another forum if coco produced more yield than perlite, he replied he couldn't tell. All he insured with coco was that his buds seemed "oilier".
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
That hempy growth explosion through wk4 has had me scrambling more than once. Looks really good jela.
I expanded a brick of coco this weekend, gonna give it a real try next run.

Edit: What brand and specs are those LED's?? They look like UFO's on steroids...
WattSaver, those are 180W Jumbo's from ProSource. I love them and have done several 400W HPS grows to compare....no difference in yield except less popcorn buds around the bottom of plants...tey still grow cola's as long as my arm......just lower heat to deal with.

http://store.prosourceworldwide.com/Illuminator-180W-UFO-LED-Grow-Lights-p/illuminator jumbo ufo 180w.htm
 

smoothness

Active Member
Dalhi Hempy does use coco now..and his teachings are the #1 reason I went hempy coco.....but when asked on another forum if coco produced more yield than perlite, he replied he couldn't tell. All he insured with coco was that his buds seemed "oilier".
i was just wondering what would be the best method for a newbie like me.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
WattSaver, those are 180W Jumbo's from ProSource. I love them and have done several 400W HPS grows to compare....no difference in yield except less popcorn buds around the bottom of plants...tey still grow cola's as long as my arm......just lower heat to deal with.

http://store.prosourceworldwide.com/Illuminator-180W-UFO-LED-Grow-Lights-p/illuminator%20jumbo%20ufo%20180w.htm
So I was right they are UFO's on steroids. I want to break out my 350w panel again but I'm having a hard time convincing the wife to let me set up a tent in my office.
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
So I was right they are UFO's on steroids. I want to break out my 350w panel again but I'm having a hard time convincing the wife to let me set up a tent in my office.
Yes, I researched a lot before I made the leap for LED's ($). I feel fortunate to have purchased winners on the first time. While I was farting with the 400W HPS earlier this year in the tent, I did some back-to-back single auto-flower grows in a closet with just one 180W UFO. They rivaled the size of photo-period girls with yields over 3oz dried. Still I claim most of my yields are due to the hempy method. My soil grows are history.....as a matter of fact I just gave my Fox Farms posters away the other day.
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Moebius, couldn't wait to tell you...I have a 60L bag of Mapito on order....I'm so stoked...until now I've only planted gas in couch cushions.
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
i was just wondering what would be the best method for a newbie like me.
My favorite conventional Hempy medium is Hydroton.I suggest starting a seed in a starter cube/plug then plant directly into medium of the size bucket you want.Give of daily lite strength nute feed till the roots hit res (RHR).Keep in mind that with the right genetics,and enviroment,a very large plant can be had in a 1 gallon bucket.For clones with Hydroton Hempy,be sure to use RRR (rest roots on res) method or amend Taproot zone with Perlite or Rockwool to keep Taproot moist,and aerated till RHR.
 

Gibb

Member
Why is hydroton so useful? I know it provides lots of air and might also prevent some algae problems, as well as letter the nutrients get to the bottom, more useful roots.
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
I was just ripping down a 12/12 rooted male clone (3-4 wks) that I used for pollen.I realised after ripping the roots to take a pic.

Zone C (res) was Hydroton.
Zone A and B was polyfil (the yellow foam is a wrap I use for cloning).

The first pic shows the Dents from the Clay Balls from RRR (rest roots on res) method.I had to pick the Hydroton out from the dents.The roots took hold of them near res level to anchor,and converge on res level fluctuations imho.

The 2nd pic shows the Hydroton with ripped roots strewn about.Older plants have more of a foothold with Hydroton,and more so for an older vegging plant.I did not let res dry out nor did I water/feed every day.From my observance it looks like the total volume of roots are nearly the same for a Hydroton res,and a Polyfil res given same time frame for root growth.The Polyfil will have more roots in res,but will be skinny.The Hydroton will have less roots,but thicker.Imho the roots will adapt to there comfort,and the grower helps them along.

The 3rd pic is misleading due to some polyfil was ripped off from a side.You see the feeder roots on where they have gotten comfortable.No need for heavy anchoring due to readily avaible needs met without much searching,and other priorities imho.


The Polyfil above the res is mostly lightly damp,and obviously well aerated with no root die back,or woodyness.
 

Attachments

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
Why is hydroton so useful? I know it provides lots of air and might also prevent some algae problems, as well as letter the nutrients get to the bottom, more useful roots.
Hydroton is usefull because it is a reusable medium,and PH inert.It is light yet provides support.The air pockets from the manufacturing process is helpfull too in moisture retension.You cannot start a seed in it though,and without RRR method for a clone it is risky without constant watering til RHR,or will dry out.

RRR (rest roots on res)
RHR (roots hit res)

In the future I think I am going to settle on a Hempy with 75% Hydroton,with a 25% Polyfil Taproot wrap.This provides the benefit of Polyfil in the upper zone B,and lower zone A to fight off callous roots.The Hydroton will provide support.This makes more unreusable Polyfil available,and reuse the Hydroton.

I will also conduct an experiment at a later time,and if usefull info is gleamed,I will report here.
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Is hydroton good for wicking upwards? I always considered it a drip medium but I see it in DWC buckets too...don't know if the mist or bubble splash is the driver for moisture creep there.....
 

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
Is hydroton good for wicking upwards? I always considered it a drip medium but I see it in DWC buckets too...don't know if the mist or bubble splash is the driver for moisture creep there.....
No it is not.If you need extra moisture content above the res then Rockwool or Coco would be your best bet.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
I was just ripping down a 12/12 rooted male clone (3-4 wks) that I used for pollen.I realised after ripping the roots to take a pic.

Zone C (res) was Hydroton.
Zone A and B was polyfil (the yellow foam is a wrap I use for cloning).

The first pic shows the Dents from the Clay Balls from RRR (rest roots on res) method.I had to pick the Hydroton out from the dents.The roots took hold of them near res level to anchor,and converge on res level fluctuations imho.

The 2nd pic shows the Hydroton with ripped roots strewn about.Older plants have more of a foothold with Hydroton,and more so for an older vegging plant.I did not let res dry out nor did I water/feed every day.From my observance it looks like the total volume of roots are nearly the same for a Hydroton res,and a Polyfil res given same time frame for root growth.The Polyfil will have more roots in res,but will be skinny.The Hydroton will have less roots,but thicker.Imho the roots will adapt to there comfort,and the grower helps them along.

The 3rd pic is misleading due to some polyfil was ripped off from a side.You see the feeder roots on where they have gotten comfortable.No need for heavy anchoring due to readily avaible needs met without much searching,and other priorities imho.


The Polyfil above the res is mostly lightly damp,and obviously well aerated with no root die back,or woodyness.
That's quite the base stem for a cup grow.

I like the root shot Dalek, and it shows that the roots do want to work their way into the rez, and the depth may be directly related to the level maintained in the rez.

I should have taken photos of the root ball when I broke down the outdoor girl, I started to clean the perlite for recycle, and there were so many roots that I finally just threw it all out. The bucket hadn't completely dried when I pulled the plug out, but the roots were so thick that over 1/2 the wet rez perlite came out with the core. I'd never seen this before, but then again I've never had to feed a plant one and a quarter gal's a day for 6wks either.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
In the future I think I am going to settle on a Hempy with 75% Hydroton,with a 25% Polyfil Taproot wrap.This provides the benefit of Polyfil in the upper zone B,and lower zone A to fight off callous roots.The Hydroton will provide support.This makes more unreusable Polyfil available,and reuse the Hydroton.

I will also conduct an experiment at a later time,and if usefull info is gleamed,I will report here.
Once you conduct this experiment let us all know, the info will be useful no matter how it turns out.
 
Top