indoorsavant
Active Member
What ratio should i use the vinegar to bring my water dow say half a point
It depends on what is in your water. Acetic acid is the pH lowering component in vinegar. As a "weak" acid it will set up a buffering potential with any acetates in your water (or soil).What ratio should i use the vinegar to bring my water dow say half a point
Idk if this means your water has large particles or what but, my water comes out of tap at 7.5 and doesn't change From filtration, I filter with an on tap pur filter, an under sink filter (ge I think) and a britta pitcher, not only does the ph stay the same, to my surprise the ppm only goes down about 20/25 ppm from about 160 to around 140 and the tds doesn't change much either. My water co has had a shady past so we are as careful as we can be without being ridiculous.to bring it down
vinegar
lemon juice
mollases
also most nutes will bring it down when you add them
if your going vinegar apple cider vinegar is best (ask any old hippie grower)
my tap water is 7.3 I use a brita filter pichter for drinking water and water ran thru it comes out 6.5 so highly recomend the brita filter
with lemon juice or vinegar most say cap fulls but hey caps can be different sizes with different brands would advise using drops start with 5 drops and test till you see how many drops work for you
with mollases I have found 1 teaspoon to 32 oz of water = a 1 point drop
Just had to say, that Camacho For President avatar almost made me piss my pants! I'm going to start a Brawndo thread. If I were a hydro company, I would definitely come out with a Brawndo lineIdk if this means your water has large particles or what but, my water comes out of tap at 7.5 and doesn't change From filtration, I filter with an on tap pur filter, an under sink filter (ge I think) and a britta pitcher, not only does the ph stay the same, to my surprise the ppm only goes down about 20/25 ppm from about 160 to around 140 and the tds doesn't change much either. My water co has had a shady past so we are as careful as we can be without being ridiculous.
Actually, the GH dry pH-down contains largely citric acid. They admix ammonium sulfate and "urea phosphate" to make it proprietary and nutritious. cnI've used vinegar as well in hydro for a pH down substitute. It does work, but it's not recommended on a long term basis. I was annoyed with paying $10-12 for a small bottle of pH down, but grow stores mark up products to an absurd level. I wrestled with this just like you and resisted the pH down, but it really is the best thing for plants. I recommend this, and I know you are on a tight budget:
https://growershouse.com/general-hydroponics-ph-down-dry-32032
It's only about $9 plus a few bucks shipping. It should last you a long long time. I've never tried it myself but have read good things. When I burn through my existing pH down liquid, I will try the dry version. People say you need less of it, it lasts a really long time, and it buffers well. It's Phosphoric acid which does not produce unwanted byproducts when it breaks down; that's why it's recommended for plants.
Very interesting cannabineer! How did you find that out? I hate that in this industry no one is required to label their products with ingredients. Is this a different formula than the liquid version?Actually, the GH dry pH-down contains largely citric acid. They admix ammonium sulfate and "urea phosphate" to make it proprietary and nutritious. cn
I looked at the MSDS with an "insider's" eye.Very interesting cannabineer! How did you find that out? I hate that in this industry no one is required to label their products with ingredients. Is this a different formula than the liquid version?
So this dry formula is also superior from a nutrition and buffer standpoint? Maybe I'll just skip straight to the dry even though I just bought a gallon of the liquid. I've been having daily pH swings to the upside mostly and go through the pH down pretty quickly.
If you choose to go this route, you can usually pick up acid at motorcycle shops, or outdoor equipment places that sell a lot of the small batteries that require filling and charging before use.I looked at the MSDS with an "insider's" eye.
However I don't think the dry is a better product!
Citric acid is a potential bacterial feedstock just as acetic is. And the ammonium sulfate component is dead weight, possibly added as a flow control (anticaking) component.
The liquid form is pure phosphoric acid. Cleaner and "100% active ingredient".
Frankly, for a good, cheap pH-down, I suggest battery acid. This is sulfuric acid (also a plant nutrient but not a bacterial one) and very effective. I don't recommend wearing nice or expensive clothes while working with either phosphoric or sulfuric acids, because they're fiendishly good at making the sort of holes in cotton that only show after a wash. cn
Awesome info, thanksI looked at the MSDS with an "insider's" eye.
However I don't think the dry is a better product!
Citric acid is a potential bacterial feedstock just as acetic is. And the ammonium sulfate component is dead weight, possibly added as a flow control (anticaking) component.
The liquid form is pure phosphoric acid. Cleaner and "100% active ingredient".
Frankly, for a good, cheap pH-down, I suggest battery acid. This is sulfuric acid (also a plant nutrient but not a bacterial one) and very effective. I don't recommend wearing nice or expensive clothes while working with either phosphoric or sulfuric acids, because they're fiendishly good at making the sort of holes in cotton that only show after a wash. cn
One time I went into an AutoZone for this reason and asked if they sell battery acid (sulfuric). They looked at me like I was a terrorist and said they stopped selling it years ago and didn't think any auto shops carried it any more. They scared me sufficiently that I never went into any place asking for it again.If you choose to go this route, you can usually pick up acid at motorcycle shops, or outdoor equipment places that sell a lot of the small batteries that require filling and charging before use.
I also used vinegar as a ph down for a while but couldn't keep my soil from going alkaline...around 8.0. I have looked into this and found out that vinegar is readily soluble in water and will adjust the ph just fine, but when added to a soil medium is not strong enough to keep the soil acidic. I don't know exaclty what the chemistry is beind it, but the soil is able to buffer the vinegar or the vinegar drains from the soil too readily; after less than a day the ph of the soil will go up to a point close to the tap waters original ph before adding vinegar.
I believe a stronger acid that doesn't buffer as readily is needed to keep the soil ph values in check. If you don't want to buy the hydro store pH Down muriatic acid (used in pools and can be bought at a local hardware store) can be used. That stuff is pretty nasty in terms of exposure rand handling risks and only small volumes would be needed so be really careful and keep your safety in mind vs. your wallet. Another solution and one that should be used for instant soil pH change is aluminum sulfate or iron sulfate (available at most nurseries) These are acids that you add into the soil that will instantly change the pH and will help buffer the soil for some length of time (up to a year or so). Be carefull with the application as the roots can be badly damaged by over application or non thorough mixing. I don't know for sure, but I believe once the soild has been loaded with the propper amount of aluminum or iron sulfate, that it is much easier to keep the pH from shifting up if you use an alkaline tap water.
But don't take my word or anyone elses as truth, do some research on your own about these topics.