Vinegar used as Ph -

riddleme

riddleme

Well-Known Member
to bring it down
vinegar
lemon juice
mollases

also most nutes will bring it down when you add them

if your going vinegar apple cider vinegar is best (ask any old hippie grower)

my tap water is 7.3 I use a brita filter pichter for drinking water and water ran thru it comes out 6.5 so highly recomend the brita filter :bigjoint:

with lemon juice or vinegar most say cap fulls but hey caps can be different sizes with different brands would advise using drops start with 5 drops and test till you see how many drops work for you

with mollases I have found 1 teaspoon to 32 oz of water = a 1 point drop
 
indoorsavant

indoorsavant

Active Member
Very good info thankyou much.it just so happens i was given a big brita filter yesterday by my mom,lol.i think it holds like 2 gallons,ive never heard of this before but i think it would be a good solution,if it lowers the ph and cleans the water its almost like using a reverse osmosis with out spending the cash
 
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odinfolk

Guest
I use white vinegar EVERY TIME I water my girls...I use a 1 liter watering can, fill it to just about the brim (so probably over a liter) and a cap full of vinegar brings the ph down from approx. 7.3-7.5, down to about 6.2. Even then, sometimes a cup full for a liter of water is too much. Always test w/ a ph tester if you have one.
 
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SecretShaman

Member
indoorsavant said:
What ratio should i use the vinegar to bring my water dow say half a point
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It depends on what is in your water. Acetic acid is the pH lowering component in vinegar. As a "weak" acid it will set up a buffering potential with any acetates in your water (or soil).

A buffer, by definition, is a weak acid + one of its salts. What the pH will be after adding a given amount of acetic acid will depend on which acetate salts are present in what concentrations.

(Please don't confuse weak/strong with dilute/concentrated when dealing with acids)
 
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Produkt

Member
Vinegar seems to be wroking for me although it is only a temporary ph down. The water raises back up after sitting.
I just got a new ph meter from using stupid color strips. Can someone tell me the ph of a few household things so that I can adjust mine. What is the ph of your pure white vinegar? I am getting 1.7, how about 99% isopropylalcahol, mine says 6.4

Thanks
 
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mr nicely anomus

Member
http://landscaping.about.com/od/weedsdiseases/qt/vinegar_weeds.htm this web site says it poisinous to weeds dandy lyons the lot with repeated aplications,, im useing viniger as an emergency ph down due to nuterient lock out (mg) as thats what i have to hand and im waiting on some ph down threw the post no good if my plants dead when the ph down gets here tho. wish i had a lemon in the coubbored would that add flavour to the smoke give it more sugars or any thing?
iv heard you could use pinaple or lemon or even orange juce, god knows what extras those come with in but im giving it a try lemon came out around 2to3-ph and pinaple around 4-ph im gona give them a try :) wish me luck
 
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Microndep

Member
White vinegar, is acetic acid. You can use any acid, lemon juice works also but at weaker rate, sulfuric acid from a battery will work at the max rate, be sure to water that down a huge amount. pH lower p capital H relates to hydrogen concentration, (think of it as per-Hydrogen). So any acid can suffice just be careful of the concentration. I use white vinegar it can be added directly to the nuts in small amounts and it works well.
 
upinthemguts

upinthemguts

Active Member
riddleme said:
to bring it down
vinegar
lemon juice
mollases

also most nutes will bring it down when you add them

if your going vinegar apple cider vinegar is best (ask any old hippie grower)

my tap water is 7.3 I use a brita filter pichter for drinking water and water ran thru it comes out 6.5 so highly recomend the brita filter :bigjoint:

with lemon juice or vinegar most say cap fulls but hey caps can be different sizes with different brands would advise using drops start with 5 drops and test till you see how many drops work for you

with mollases I have found 1 teaspoon to 32 oz of water = a 1 point drop
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Idk if this means your water has large particles or what but, my water comes out of tap at 7.5 and doesn't change From filtration, I filter with an on tap pur filter, an under sink filter (ge I think) and a britta pitcher, not only does the ph stay the same, to my surprise the ppm only goes down about 20/25 ppm from about 160 to around 140 and the tds doesn't change much either. My water co has had a shady past so we are as careful as we can be without being ridiculous.
 
Redoctober

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
I've used vinegar as well in hydro for a pH down substitute. It does work, but it's not recommended on a long term basis. I was annoyed with paying $10-12 for a small bottle of pH down, but grow stores mark up products to an absurd level. I wrestled with this just like you and resisted the pH down, but it really is the best thing for plants. I recommend this, and I know you are on a tight budget:

https://growershouse.com/general-hydroponics-ph-down-dry-32032

It's only about $9 plus a few bucks shipping. It should last you a long long time. I've never tried it myself but have read good things. When I burn through my existing pH down liquid, I will try the dry version. People say you need less of it, it lasts a really long time, and it buffers well. It's Phosphoric acid which does not produce unwanted byproducts when it breaks down; that's why it's recommended for plants.
 
Redoctober

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
upinthemguts said:
Idk if this means your water has large particles or what but, my water comes out of tap at 7.5 and doesn't change From filtration, I filter with an on tap pur filter, an under sink filter (ge I think) and a britta pitcher, not only does the ph stay the same, to my surprise the ppm only goes down about 20/25 ppm from about 160 to around 140 and the tds doesn't change much either. My water co has had a shady past so we are as careful as we can be without being ridiculous.
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Just had to say, that Camacho For President avatar almost made me piss my pants! I'm going to start a Brawndo thread. If I were a hydro company, I would definitely come out with a Brawndo line :)
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Redoctober said:
I've used vinegar as well in hydro for a pH down substitute. It does work, but it's not recommended on a long term basis. I was annoyed with paying $10-12 for a small bottle of pH down, but grow stores mark up products to an absurd level. I wrestled with this just like you and resisted the pH down, but it really is the best thing for plants. I recommend this, and I know you are on a tight budget:

https://growershouse.com/general-hydroponics-ph-down-dry-32032

It's only about $9 plus a few bucks shipping. It should last you a long long time. I've never tried it myself but have read good things. When I burn through my existing pH down liquid, I will try the dry version. People say you need less of it, it lasts a really long time, and it buffers well. It's Phosphoric acid which does not produce unwanted byproducts when it breaks down; that's why it's recommended for plants.
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Actually, the GH dry pH-down contains largely citric acid. They admix ammonium sulfate and "urea phosphate" to make it proprietary and nutritious. cn
 
Redoctober

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
cannabineer said:
Actually, the GH dry pH-down contains largely citric acid. They admix ammonium sulfate and "urea phosphate" to make it proprietary and nutritious. cn
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Very interesting cannabineer! How did you find that out? I hate that in this industry no one is required to label their products with ingredients. Is this a different formula than the liquid version?

So this dry formula is also superior from a nutrition and buffer standpoint? Maybe I'll just skip straight to the dry even though I just bought a gallon of the liquid. I've been having daily pH swings to the upside mostly and go through the pH down pretty quickly.
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Redoctober said:
Very interesting cannabineer! How did you find that out? I hate that in this industry no one is required to label their products with ingredients. Is this a different formula than the liquid version?

So this dry formula is also superior from a nutrition and buffer standpoint? Maybe I'll just skip straight to the dry even though I just bought a gallon of the liquid. I've been having daily pH swings to the upside mostly and go through the pH down pretty quickly.
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I looked at the MSDS with an "insider's" eye. ;)

However I don't think the dry is a better product!
Citric acid is a potential bacterial feedstock just as acetic is. And the ammonium sulfate component is dead weight, possibly added as a flow control (anticaking) component.

The liquid form is pure phosphoric acid. Cleaner and "100% active ingredient".
Frankly, for a good, cheap pH-down, I suggest battery acid. This is sulfuric acid (also a plant nutrient but not a bacterial one) and very effective. I don't recommend wearing nice or expensive clothes while working with either phosphoric or sulfuric acids, because they're fiendishly good at making the sort of holes in cotton that only show after a wash. cn
 
I

imchucky666

Well-Known Member
cannabineer said:
I looked at the MSDS with an "insider's" eye. ;)

However I don't think the dry is a better product!
Citric acid is a potential bacterial feedstock just as acetic is. And the ammonium sulfate component is dead weight, possibly added as a flow control (anticaking) component.

The liquid form is pure phosphoric acid. Cleaner and "100% active ingredient".
Frankly, for a good, cheap pH-down, I suggest battery acid. This is sulfuric acid (also a plant nutrient but not a bacterial one) and very effective. I don't recommend wearing nice or expensive clothes while working with either phosphoric or sulfuric acids, because they're fiendishly good at making the sort of holes in cotton that only show after a wash. cn
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If you choose to go this route, you can usually pick up acid at motorcycle shops, or outdoor equipment places that sell a lot of the small batteries that require filling and charging before use.
 
Redoctober

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
cannabineer said:
I looked at the MSDS with an "insider's" eye. ;)

However I don't think the dry is a better product!
Citric acid is a potential bacterial feedstock just as acetic is. And the ammonium sulfate component is dead weight, possibly added as a flow control (anticaking) component.

The liquid form is pure phosphoric acid. Cleaner and "100% active ingredient".
Frankly, for a good, cheap pH-down, I suggest battery acid. This is sulfuric acid (also a plant nutrient but not a bacterial one) and very effective. I don't recommend wearing nice or expensive clothes while working with either phosphoric or sulfuric acids, because they're fiendishly good at making the sort of holes in cotton that only show after a wash. cn
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Awesome info, thanks :) :) :)
I'll stick with the liquid then. I got a gallon for $18, not terrible and it'll last a while.

If you choose to go this route, you can usually pick up acid at motorcycle shops, or outdoor equipment places that sell a lot of the small batteries that require filling and charging before use.
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One time I went into an AutoZone for this reason and asked if they sell battery acid (sulfuric). They looked at me like I was a terrorist and said they stopped selling it years ago and didn't think any auto shops carried it any more. They scared me sufficiently that I never went into any place asking for it again.
 
PopTop

PopTop

Well-Known Member
orpow said:
I also used vinegar as a ph down for a while but couldn't keep my soil from going alkaline...around 8.0. I have looked into this and found out that vinegar is readily soluble in water and will adjust the ph just fine, but when added to a soil medium is not strong enough to keep the soil acidic. I don't know exaclty what the chemistry is beind it, but the soil is able to buffer the vinegar or the vinegar drains from the soil too readily; after less than a day the ph of the soil will go up to a point close to the tap waters original ph before adding vinegar.

I believe a stronger acid that doesn't buffer as readily is needed to keep the soil ph values in check. If you don't want to buy the hydro store pH Down muriatic acid (used in pools and can be bought at a local hardware store) can be used. That stuff is pretty nasty in terms of exposure rand handling risks and only small volumes would be needed so be really careful and keep your safety in mind vs. your wallet. Another solution and one that should be used for instant soil pH change is aluminum sulfate or iron sulfate (available at most nurseries) These are acids that you add into the soil that will instantly change the pH and will help buffer the soil for some length of time (up to a year or so). Be carefull with the application as the roots can be badly damaged by over application or non thorough mixing. I don't know for sure, but I believe once the soild has been loaded with the propper amount of aluminum or iron sulfate, that it is much easier to keep the pH from shifting up if you use an alkaline tap water.

But don't take my word or anyone elses as truth, do some research on your own about these topics.
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I use muratic acid, PH in a gallon of water will run 7.5, 1 drop of muratic brings it down to a 6.5, have to be careful as explained above but I can get a gallon of it for around 2 bucks, put a little in a small container (plastic of course) and use an eye dropper, have not seen any problems with using it.
 
Adriano696

Adriano696

Member
Hey guys use vinegar in your feed water, but use it as a flush it will adjust your ph and it won't rebound a day later. Also if you have white bumps on your stems all it is is the extra minerals in your water so pour the flush water on the stem as well. Worked for me man peace
 
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