HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"
- Thread starter calibuzz
- Start date
JimmyHamilton21
Active Member
I am cooking up a batch of calibuzz with some homegrown carribbean reds they should work well according to scoville scale!
| Pepper Type | Scoville Units |
| Caribbean Red Habanero, Red Savina Habanero | 225,000 - 550,000 |
| Scotch Bonnet Habanero | 200,000 - 325,000 |
| Habanero | 100,000 - 325,000 |
Twohearted
Well-Known Member
Unless you have hundreds of plants keeping spider mites under control is pretty easy.
All you need is Mighty Wash and some hands on time with each plant.
First cut off the most infected areas of each plant, hopefully greatly reducing the adult population and removing many of the eggs.
Then using a mister(not a cheap spray bottle)on the finest spray setting at low, pressure soak the whole plant. Do not just spray the canopy or the Mighty Wash will not do its job, you have to soak every plant, over and under leaf. The stuff is kinda expensive, but works very well. One gallon, used properly will treat 24-36 plants, so it is defiantly a pretty cost effective solution.
If your infestation is really bad, you might need to reapply after a week or so, but one good application combined with some pruning has worked for me in the past.
Lady bugs can work as a long term control, but predator mites work faster and are overall a better option in my opinion. Mighty wash is the least invasive, most effective product I have used, it can also be used all the way up to flower. Just make sure to give them a good water mist before cutting if you do, Mighty wash kills on contact, so there is no need to leave it on the plants for a long period of time. It is basically water that holds a very mild electrical charge and zaps them on contact, sounds crazy, but totally works. Check it out!
All you need is Mighty Wash and some hands on time with each plant.
First cut off the most infected areas of each plant, hopefully greatly reducing the adult population and removing many of the eggs.
Then using a mister(not a cheap spray bottle)on the finest spray setting at low, pressure soak the whole plant. Do not just spray the canopy or the Mighty Wash will not do its job, you have to soak every plant, over and under leaf. The stuff is kinda expensive, but works very well. One gallon, used properly will treat 24-36 plants, so it is defiantly a pretty cost effective solution.
If your infestation is really bad, you might need to reapply after a week or so, but one good application combined with some pruning has worked for me in the past.
Lady bugs can work as a long term control, but predator mites work faster and are overall a better option in my opinion. Mighty wash is the least invasive, most effective product I have used, it can also be used all the way up to flower. Just make sure to give them a good water mist before cutting if you do, Mighty wash kills on contact, so there is no need to leave it on the plants for a long period of time. It is basically water that holds a very mild electrical charge and zaps them on contact, sounds crazy, but totally works. Check it out!
Twohearted
Well-Known Member
There are a number of online gardening sites that sell them, decent chance a local shop might sell them also, there is one around me that does. If you just google predatory mites you should get plenty of hits. They are only good as a long term control. If you have a bad infestation already you need to use something like Mighty Wash to get the adult population under control ASAP. Mighty Wash will also kill the good mites, so make sure you use it first if you plan on also using predator mites.
Nightmarecreature
Active Member
This recipe does not work that great! I use this recipe and it works a lot better. You need an oil added to this recipe to kill the eggs. Oils also kill insect eggs by penetrating the shells and interfering with metabolic and respiratory processes. Neem Oil does NOT do this and does not work on spider mites!
This topic is about using safe sprays, so keep using dangerous stuff like Avid and Floramite that remains in your buds 6 months later!
2 Garlic bulbs (Insect Repellant)
3 ounces of habanero or Ghost peppers! (Contact killer)
1 Tablespoon of Canola Oil (Egg Killer)
1 Teaspoon of Dawn Dish Soap (Dawn contains the best wetting agent) (Breaks surface tension of water and causes mixture to stick)
7 Cups of Water (PH water between 9PH-11PH) (This helps to denature insect proteins) (Denature= Dissolves insects into goo)
I used the first recipe and it didn't work after several treatments. This recipe I posted works better than most organic stuff I have used. Repeat treatment every 3 days until they are gone. You must also treat the soil at the sametime, I use Triazicide soil drenches. The Half life of Triazicide on leaf surfaces is 5 days and 30 days in soil. After 5 soil drench feedings, start using mosquito dunks with every feeding.If you don't treat the soil there is no point in treating the top of the plant.
There is a guy on THCfarmer that used the following.
Well 180 ish days ago I sprayed 7 Cuts with the Recommended dose of:
Forbid 4F
Avid
Floramite
Eagle 20
(No I didn't have mites or PM)
Not at the same time, but over the course of 2 weeks...
They Vegged for another 9-10 weeks, then on in the flower room they went..
Well last week after a few week cure it was time to get the samples tested...
I got them tested by Ca Testing Authority...
All 7 samples tested the same...
Avid 8ppm
Floramite 5ppm
Forbid and Eagle 20 free!
I was told by them that an acceptable amount is 1ppm for human consumption.
This topic is about using safe sprays, so keep using dangerous stuff like Avid and Floramite that remains in your buds 6 months later!
2 Garlic bulbs (Insect Repellant)
3 ounces of habanero or Ghost peppers! (Contact killer)
1 Tablespoon of Canola Oil (Egg Killer)
1 Teaspoon of Dawn Dish Soap (Dawn contains the best wetting agent) (Breaks surface tension of water and causes mixture to stick)
7 Cups of Water (PH water between 9PH-11PH) (This helps to denature insect proteins) (Denature= Dissolves insects into goo)
I used the first recipe and it didn't work after several treatments. This recipe I posted works better than most organic stuff I have used. Repeat treatment every 3 days until they are gone. You must also treat the soil at the sametime, I use Triazicide soil drenches. The Half life of Triazicide on leaf surfaces is 5 days and 30 days in soil. After 5 soil drench feedings, start using mosquito dunks with every feeding.If you don't treat the soil there is no point in treating the top of the plant.
There is a guy on THCfarmer that used the following.
Well 180 ish days ago I sprayed 7 Cuts with the Recommended dose of:
Forbid 4F
Avid
Floramite
Eagle 20
(No I didn't have mites or PM)
Not at the same time, but over the course of 2 weeks...
They Vegged for another 9-10 weeks, then on in the flower room they went..
Well last week after a few week cure it was time to get the samples tested...
I got them tested by Ca Testing Authority...
All 7 samples tested the same...
Avid 8ppm
Floramite 5ppm
Forbid and Eagle 20 free!
I was told by them that an acceptable amount is 1ppm for human consumption.
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
i put a pound of habs in a normal pot of water and did em up and it didnt work. That spray would make you cough from across the room but it didnt work well. It makes good pepper spay thoughHOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%
By Calibuzz - 30 year grower
View attachment 1831939
Cured Clone - see new growth!
You have Spider Mites? YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!! Unless you are diligent and work hard, the problem will not go away, your crop is doomed as one by one they fail and die.
As a Native American, proud of our heritage and ways in keeping with the environment, I give to you a method that is naturally harmonious, and pure. The method is so benign, you may use this method even during flowering - without a single harm to your precious plants.
The best way is not the easiest by far; to do the perfect job takes comitment - so all you lazy bud heads who want a quick fix: "look elsewhere, or coat your precious medicine with chemicals and poison...and remind me not to smoke your herb."
Editor's note: One will find a bit of cross talk in this thread, and some rude posts. The Editor aplogizes that many have strayed off the central subject and prefer to haze each other. However, one will find many other concerned members with great suggestions and feedback. - calibuzz
"Now then, for all you fervent horticulturists..."
Spider mites are alive; you can make them dead. All life is fragile, but... "how do I kill the mites without hurting my crop?"
I will not use pesticides or harmful chemicals on my plants; thus, I have found an all-natural way to rid the infestations that sometimes occur. Curing your plants takes time and care, but you can rid your babies of the mini-spiders that suck your plant's life's blood.
Spiders have skin-like exoskeletons; the tissues are sensitive to change. Molecules soak though their pours, skin and orifices; thus, what may bother you - a giant living organism - might prove fatal to a spider the size of a pinhead. This is so when using a common group of proteins found in Nature. I will teach you how to naturally and inexpensively rid your plants of the dreaded spider mites.
The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.
NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.
"GEE, MY PLANT LEAVES ARE DOTTED WITH WHITE SPOTS AND TURNING PALE OR YELLOW."
If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.
HERE IS WHAT TO DO
Making the Calicleaner
1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.
HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.
WHATS NEXT??
Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.
However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.
Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!
Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.
Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.
Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!
The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.
Caliclean works,
Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.
Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace be with you always,
Calibuzz
View attachment 1831939View attachment 1831941View attachment 1831940
Image one: Cured Clone - see new growth.
Image two: Cured Nursery - all plants mite free after caliclean!
Image three: After the Storm - I was out hiking the mountains and witnessed this.
There is hope at the end of every rainbow; don't give up!
Nightmarecreature
Active Member
Use the recipe I posted above! ^ It works. The OP's recipe does not work and I listed each ingredient as to why. You need to kill the eggs and Canola oil does that and the high PH is ownage on insects. I'll make my own thread with this because it works!
cannamissri
Member
44 pages later..... The most effective, least toxic (100% organic), easiest to make, and cheapest spider mite egg and crawler killer is Quantum Apocalypse neem spray. Here is a link to a post started in the Rhode Island section of this forum- https://www.rollitup.org/rhode-island-patients/604209-quantum-apocalypse-kill-mites.html No more spider mite worries!
Scroga
Well-Known Member
Anyone post this stuff?
amrcngror
Active Member
fuck that shit spray ive made it before with those habanero peppers didnt even work was a fuckin joke, in the end what worked was DR DOOM spider mite spray comes in a green aerosole can but you gotta follow directions and stand 3 - 4 ft away and give short one second burst, and cold water thats all i used and finally got rid of em and i had em for like 8 months or better....ill never get clones from anyone ever again!!
Helllo people of the forum, this is my first post ,and thought id try to not get involed with the bickering .
I can Confirm that the chille works, very well , after a very bad out brake of spider mite,I did read the post by Calibuzz and after some thought, as was going to bin them anyway ,went of to tescos, and as i guess the habanera peppers htey dident sell, so brought finger chilles as said "Very hot *****, so thought that would do went home and followed the instuctions but with more chiles about 6 finger chilles and mashed with me trusted tatto masher and made sure i mushed the seeds let it cool , sived and bunged in me sprayer,, and sparyed as ya guess , and YES IT KILLED THEM no lie..
Gave them another hit 3 days and 6 days later , and there gone.
my peppers cost me 90p and took me 3/4 of an hour of my time and it killed them ---neem 20 ish quid ,know wot im going to pick ,
im also quiet sure the the chemicals that make it hot will not hurt your weed as will become nutrial after a period of time.
I hope this help the people that want to no , cheers all and thank's Calibuzz,
All the best Rollitup
Muddles
I can Confirm that the chille works, very well , after a very bad out brake of spider mite,I did read the post by Calibuzz and after some thought, as was going to bin them anyway ,went of to tescos, and as i guess the habanera peppers htey dident sell, so brought finger chilles as said "Very hot *****, so thought that would do went home and followed the instuctions but with more chiles about 6 finger chilles and mashed with me trusted tatto masher and made sure i mushed the seeds let it cool , sived and bunged in me sprayer,, and sparyed as ya guess , and YES IT KILLED THEM no lie..
Gave them another hit 3 days and 6 days later , and there gone.
my peppers cost me 90p and took me 3/4 of an hour of my time and it killed them ---neem 20 ish quid ,know wot im going to pick ,
im also quiet sure the the chemicals that make it hot will not hurt your weed as will become nutrial after a period of time.
I hope this help the people that want to no , cheers all and thank's Calibuzz,
All the best Rollitup
Muddles
Nootnam
Well-Known Member
I just bought a pear tree and its starting to get foliage and I found a fucking clump of aphids chilling on the one leaf it does have so I made this shit sprayed it on and watched em all fall right off.. In the process of making it, I forgot that I just chopped 6 habeneros nice and fine then like 20 minutes later I touched my eye, DONT DO THAT IT HURTS LIKE A BITCH
- try diatomaceous earth. its a fine powder. use food grade DE. take the powder and put it in a plastic bottle with a cap. drill some small holes in the top about the same size as a salt shaker or smaller. give it a squeeze to force the air and powder out as a little cloud on the leaves and dirt. make sure its kept dry. this will kill any existing mites in the area. DE is like micro shards of glass totally harmless to humans. if bugs crawl through it they get cut up and dry out and die. in about a day. Trust me it works better than anything I've tried which is about everything. kelp4less.com is a good place to buy online. Google it do some homework give it a try. anyone with a bug problem try this and let us know how it works.