Soil Food Web Gardening with Compost Teas
- Thread starter trichome fiend
- Start date
Sincerely420
New Member
Happy 4/20 all to the tea gang!
Sincerely420
New Member
Happy 420 bossman! Kite High from some Delicious Seeds Critical Jack Herer! I am body bumpin' and I LOVE IT!
Mohican
Well-Known Member
I read in a gardening site that you can used a covered dish with beer and soapy water to catch them. I used Sevin last year because I just could not fight them all. Now I am just going out at midnight and picking them off. Do you guys have any good organic earwig preventatives?
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Is this 1 gallon tea ready to go.... 1/2 cup high P bat guano 1/4 cup worm castings, 1/4 seabird guano.
Pre fungi with 3 tbs baby oatmeal for 72 hours in wet warm place.
Placed 12 hours ago in bucket of 1 gallon aerated water, with 3 tsp humic acid, 1 oz kelp extract and 1 tbs molasses.
Here is what it looks like now...
Pre fungi with 3 tbs baby oatmeal for 72 hours in wet warm place.
Placed 12 hours ago in bucket of 1 gallon aerated water, with 3 tsp humic acid, 1 oz kelp extract and 1 tbs molasses.
Here is what it looks like now...
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Roger that, note to self don't drink from large bucket that smells like beer no matter what. Not for personal consumption.Nope - the longer the better (to a point). You want the microbes to really get established. It will get foamy with finer sized bubbles and start to smell like beer
Thinking will give my baby a drink from this come tomorrow evening 36 hrs into brew.
Sincerely420
New Member
Like the idea Dank, but the ratios for your tea are WAY OFF! So I'd start over and use water only this time!
You have WAYYY too much in one gallon of water bro! That tea will prob burn the SHIT outta you girls!
There's WAYYYY too much guano in that tea! You need to drop down to like a tbs per gallon MAX! The most I ever use is a teaspoon per gallon!
The fungi you're making from the oatmeal sounds good tho!
And bubble for 18-24 hours bro! Not 12!
The humic acid is a plus, but I don't use it. I'd say drop that down to a tsp too.
And rather than using kelp extract, do you not have kelp meal?
And 1tbs is fine I'm sure, but I'd go with a tsp or two instead. I never use a tbsp per gallon. Always one or two teaspoons depending on what else I add!
Sincerely420
New Member
Toss this tea bro.....Or it use at your own risk!!!Roger that, note to self don't drink from large bucket that smells like beer no matter what. Not for personal consumption.
Thinking will give my baby a drink from this come tomorrow evening 36 hrs into brew.
And Mohican, I've never had a tea tha smelled like beer
!The bubble are a good indication of a reacting in the tea, but not necessarily a reaction from microbes reproducing
Sincerely420
New Member
[SIZE=+2]Recipes Which Can Be Used With A 50 gallon (US) Compost Tea Brewer[/SIZE]
Brewing Temperature:
There has been recent discussion concerning the best temperature for brewing. There are two basic schools of thought; 1/ that one should brew at the temperature of the soil where the CT is to be applied. 2/ that the temperature range of 63 F to 70 F (17 C to 21 C) is the optimum for a maximum production and diversity of microbes. This aspect obviously needs research. I am of the opinion that one should brew at a temperature which maximizes microbial numbers and creates a functional microbial nutrient cycling consortia. I think that a large, self supporting, population has a better chance of survival once applied to the soil. Besides, if you brew at 50 F it may take days to have a microbial population. I therefore try to start my brews around 65 F.
Compost:
If you are purchasing compost, I recommend compost from KIS or another source of compost which is known to be microbially active.
If you are home composting, generally speaking fresh vermicompost is just about the best substance one can use for brewing compost tea. If you can purchase some composting worms and feed them a variety of food you really cant go wrong.
If you want a fungal compost SFI has recommended mixing oat flour (or powdered oatmeal) about 1:20 with your compost and keeping damp and covered with a cloth for 8 to 10 days. This does work, although I am unsure whether there is a diversity of species of fungal hyphae grown. If you see white or blue fuzz growing on the surface turn it under. What we want is transparent and colored microscopic fungal hyphae. A side benefit to this procedure is that if left longer than 10 days I have seen multitudes of bacterial feeding nematodes growing. Im not sure if this is peculiar to my compost. Try it. Compost tea is not a good medium for distributing nematodes. Better to distribute them by hand in the compost.
Another trick to encourage fungal growth is to use good quality fish hydrolysate diluted in water (e.g. around 2 ounces per gallon of water) and dampen compost and cover for around 5 days with a cloth.
Although I am providing these recipes and guidelines which have worked for me, I cannot guarantee they will work identically with all brewers and compost quality. I encourage you to experiment but exercise common sense and consult with your professional contact.
The recipe amounts given are for use with water that has a TDS/EC (total dissolved solids) of 35 PPM (parts per million) or less. This is really pure well or spring water with a relatively low mineral content. Water with a high mineral content (or that is turbid) has a lower capacity to maintain dissolved oxygen. If you know or suspect that your water has a high mineral content or high TDS then it is advisable to reduce the amounts of compost and feedstock (e.g. molasses, kelp meal, rock powders, fish hydrolysate, etc.). The amounts of compost recommended are for a very efficient brewer, capable of raising DO2 rates close to 10 or 12 PPM. If this is not your situation, reduce the amounts used.
Please be aware that the quality of the compost or vermicompost used is directly proportional to the quality of the compost tea produced.
Some Measures;
50 gallons US is 189 liters
1 gal. = 3.78 liters
1 liter = 4.2 cups US
1 liter = 1.05 quarts US liquid
1 US ounce = 29.57 ml
[SIZE=+1]Bacteria/Archaea[/SIZE]
You will note that I use the expression bacteria/archaea rather than just bacteria. This is because recent scientific research has revealed that there is a distinct species, Archaea, co-habitating with bacteria which previously was called bacteria. The only way to tell them apart is through complex analysis. The difference is in their membrane structure and therefore their ability to process (digest) different substances. Because I cant tell them apart under the microscope I have decided to name them both.
[SIZE=+1]A/ Recipe for a Diversity of Microbes; Nutrient Cycling [/SIZE]
- measurements do not need to be precise; expressed in different units in brackets.
*compost/vermicompost 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US) reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - I recommend using 0.50% (just under 1 liter), (4 cups US) (1 quart US) [but you can use a maximum 0.75% (1.4 liters), (5.9 cups US), (1.4 quarts US)] reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.063% - (120 ml); (4 ounces)
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (0.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml) (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder
Length of Brew;
This will provide a CT with a microbial content of, bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (if present in compost) when brewed for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew. If brewed for 30 to 36 hours (and up to 42 to 48 hours if you have a microscope) there will be flagellates and amoebae (& some ciliates) as well, providing a functioning microbial consortia which is better for nutrient cycling in the soil/root interface. Because of the variations in brewing compost tea, it is better to examine the microbial content with a microscope and decide at what period of the brew you should apply it but if you do not have a microscope then use the CT between the time periods mentioned above for the desired effects.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
*pyrophyllite clay powder 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
This is a good ingredient to stimulate more bacteria/archaea diversity which seems to experimentally contribute to disease control. It can be found here at a reasonable price. http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?PID=695&cat_id=197&sub_categoryID=4
*alfalfa meal up to 0.25% (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
This promotes the growth of flagellates and amoebae and is also a fungal food. Just get the cheap stuff by the bag at the feed store, checking that it does not contain anti-microbials
*Canadian sphagnum peat moss Premier Brand throw in a handful or two to promote flagellates and amoebae and/or fungal hyphae. Batches are inconsistent, so unless you have a microscope you wont be sure which set of microbes it will promote but I have never seen anything bad.
[SIZE=+2][SIZE=+1]B/ Fungal Dominant;[/SIZE] [/SIZE]
*compost/vermicompost (fungal content) - 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US)
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.25% (475 ml rounded), (2 cups US), (0.5 quart US)
NOTE: Also experiment with eliminating black strap molasses. Recent trials have shown that with some types of compost the fungi does better. If you have a microscope check it out for yourself.
NOTE: If you have activated your compost with oat flour I recommend NOT using molasses in addition to fish hydrolysate unless you are willing to brew for a longer period and best to have a microscope.
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.190% - (360 ml) (12 ounces) Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish! You may experiment using slightly higher amounts.
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
NOTE: We seem to get the same results using 100 ml of rock phosphate but experiment yourself. Sometimes we run the rock phosphate granules through the electric coffee grinder to get a fine powder.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
* Humic acid - I am no longer recommending the use of humic acid in compost tea, as I've not seen any benefits from doing so. Better to apply it directly to the soil.
*you could also add one of the Alaska Humus products and/or Canadian sphagnum Premier brand at 0.25% or less. If there are fungi spores present in the substance, hyphae should grow.
*you may add a little soil or partially/completely decomposed forest litter (rotted leaves, wood pieces). If you are applying CT to grass or flowers use some local soil from a healthy (unmanipulated by man) area where similar plant species are doing well. If you are applying to deciduous trees or bushes then gather some soil or forest litter from a deciduous forest where the forest appears healthy and has that you know fabulous earthy odor. I recommend using 500 ml. (0.5 liter) or 2 cups to begin with and see how that works out. Careful to not use big chunks if using the Microbulator 50.
Length of Brew
Brew until fungal hyphae is observed with a microscope or for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew, however fungal hyphae is extracted at 10 hours with less bacteria/archaea present. If you want a fungal dominant brew this may be the best time to apply. For those of you with microscopes, check it out. This recipe, provided there are fungi spores in your compost, should produce a higher volume of fungal hyphae and reduced bacteria/archaea numbers.
Brewing Temperature:
There has been recent discussion concerning the best temperature for brewing. There are two basic schools of thought; 1/ that one should brew at the temperature of the soil where the CT is to be applied. 2/ that the temperature range of 63 F to 70 F (17 C to 21 C) is the optimum for a maximum production and diversity of microbes. This aspect obviously needs research. I am of the opinion that one should brew at a temperature which maximizes microbial numbers and creates a functional microbial nutrient cycling consortia. I think that a large, self supporting, population has a better chance of survival once applied to the soil. Besides, if you brew at 50 F it may take days to have a microbial population. I therefore try to start my brews around 65 F.
Compost:
If you are purchasing compost, I recommend compost from KIS or another source of compost which is known to be microbially active.
If you are home composting, generally speaking fresh vermicompost is just about the best substance one can use for brewing compost tea. If you can purchase some composting worms and feed them a variety of food you really cant go wrong.
If you want a fungal compost SFI has recommended mixing oat flour (or powdered oatmeal) about 1:20 with your compost and keeping damp and covered with a cloth for 8 to 10 days. This does work, although I am unsure whether there is a diversity of species of fungal hyphae grown. If you see white or blue fuzz growing on the surface turn it under. What we want is transparent and colored microscopic fungal hyphae. A side benefit to this procedure is that if left longer than 10 days I have seen multitudes of bacterial feeding nematodes growing. Im not sure if this is peculiar to my compost. Try it. Compost tea is not a good medium for distributing nematodes. Better to distribute them by hand in the compost.
Another trick to encourage fungal growth is to use good quality fish hydrolysate diluted in water (e.g. around 2 ounces per gallon of water) and dampen compost and cover for around 5 days with a cloth.
Although I am providing these recipes and guidelines which have worked for me, I cannot guarantee they will work identically with all brewers and compost quality. I encourage you to experiment but exercise common sense and consult with your professional contact.
The recipe amounts given are for use with water that has a TDS/EC (total dissolved solids) of 35 PPM (parts per million) or less. This is really pure well or spring water with a relatively low mineral content. Water with a high mineral content (or that is turbid) has a lower capacity to maintain dissolved oxygen. If you know or suspect that your water has a high mineral content or high TDS then it is advisable to reduce the amounts of compost and feedstock (e.g. molasses, kelp meal, rock powders, fish hydrolysate, etc.). The amounts of compost recommended are for a very efficient brewer, capable of raising DO2 rates close to 10 or 12 PPM. If this is not your situation, reduce the amounts used.
Please be aware that the quality of the compost or vermicompost used is directly proportional to the quality of the compost tea produced.
Some Measures;
50 gallons US is 189 liters
1 gal. = 3.78 liters
1 liter = 4.2 cups US
1 liter = 1.05 quarts US liquid
1 US ounce = 29.57 ml
[SIZE=+1]Bacteria/Archaea[/SIZE]
You will note that I use the expression bacteria/archaea rather than just bacteria. This is because recent scientific research has revealed that there is a distinct species, Archaea, co-habitating with bacteria which previously was called bacteria. The only way to tell them apart is through complex analysis. The difference is in their membrane structure and therefore their ability to process (digest) different substances. Because I cant tell them apart under the microscope I have decided to name them both.
[SIZE=+1]A/ Recipe for a Diversity of Microbes; Nutrient Cycling [/SIZE]
- measurements do not need to be precise; expressed in different units in brackets.
*compost/vermicompost 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US) reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - I recommend using 0.50% (just under 1 liter), (4 cups US) (1 quart US) [but you can use a maximum 0.75% (1.4 liters), (5.9 cups US), (1.4 quarts US)] reduce as required according to brewer and water quality
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.063% - (120 ml); (4 ounces)
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (0.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml) (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder
Length of Brew;
This will provide a CT with a microbial content of, bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (if present in compost) when brewed for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew. If brewed for 30 to 36 hours (and up to 42 to 48 hours if you have a microscope) there will be flagellates and amoebae (& some ciliates) as well, providing a functioning microbial consortia which is better for nutrient cycling in the soil/root interface. Because of the variations in brewing compost tea, it is better to examine the microbial content with a microscope and decide at what period of the brew you should apply it but if you do not have a microscope then use the CT between the time periods mentioned above for the desired effects.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
*pyrophyllite clay powder 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
This is a good ingredient to stimulate more bacteria/archaea diversity which seems to experimentally contribute to disease control. It can be found here at a reasonable price. http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?PID=695&cat_id=197&sub_categoryID=4
*alfalfa meal up to 0.25% (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
This promotes the growth of flagellates and amoebae and is also a fungal food. Just get the cheap stuff by the bag at the feed store, checking that it does not contain anti-microbials
*Canadian sphagnum peat moss Premier Brand throw in a handful or two to promote flagellates and amoebae and/or fungal hyphae. Batches are inconsistent, so unless you have a microscope you wont be sure which set of microbes it will promote but I have never seen anything bad.
[SIZE=+2][SIZE=+1]B/ Fungal Dominant;[/SIZE] [/SIZE]
*compost/vermicompost (fungal content) - 2.38% max. (4.5 liters), (19 cups US), (4.5 quarts US)
*unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.25% (475 ml rounded), (2 cups US), (0.5 quart US)
NOTE: Also experiment with eliminating black strap molasses. Recent trials have shown that with some types of compost the fungi does better. If you have a microscope check it out for yourself.
NOTE: If you have activated your compost with oat flour I recommend NOT using molasses in addition to fish hydrolysate unless you are willing to brew for a longer period and best to have a microscope.
*fish hydrolysate(high quality) - 0.190% - (360 ml) (12 ounces) Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish! You may experiment using slightly higher amounts.
*kelp meal - 0.25% max. (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. Sometimes kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication.
*rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
NOTE: We seem to get the same results using 100 ml of rock phosphate but experiment yourself. Sometimes we run the rock phosphate granules through the electric coffee grinder to get a fine powder.
Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)
* Humic acid - I am no longer recommending the use of humic acid in compost tea, as I've not seen any benefits from doing so. Better to apply it directly to the soil.
*you could also add one of the Alaska Humus products and/or Canadian sphagnum Premier brand at 0.25% or less. If there are fungi spores present in the substance, hyphae should grow.
*you may add a little soil or partially/completely decomposed forest litter (rotted leaves, wood pieces). If you are applying CT to grass or flowers use some local soil from a healthy (unmanipulated by man) area where similar plant species are doing well. If you are applying to deciduous trees or bushes then gather some soil or forest litter from a deciduous forest where the forest appears healthy and has that you know fabulous earthy odor. I recommend using 500 ml. (0.5 liter) or 2 cups to begin with and see how that works out. Careful to not use big chunks if using the Microbulator 50.
Length of Brew
Brew until fungal hyphae is observed with a microscope or for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew, however fungal hyphae is extracted at 10 hours with less bacteria/archaea present. If you want a fungal dominant brew this may be the best time to apply. For those of you with microscopes, check it out. This recipe, provided there are fungi spores in your compost, should produce a higher volume of fungal hyphae and reduced bacteria/archaea numbers.
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Well hmm interesting from the recipes iv'e seen they were using about 1 cup vermi compost to 1 gallon water. Therefore 1 gallon tea 1 cup compost. Logical?
Hmm starting over will be on next tea, no reason I can't dilute with aerated h20 to this mix? Or dilute prior to application?
*should I note I pasted the ratios prior in my quick notes post for ACCT earlier in this thread... why was it not addressed then?
I am also going to test dilution on clone first that is about 7 to 8 inches with multiple nodes and healthy branches, Just recently topped to for a main line gig...
Sincerely420
New Member
I would just toss it out bro. And I missed whatever post you were talking about before, which is why I didn't comment.
But I would have told you to toss that tea out too haha! If it was anything like this last one!
And it gets REALLY confusing when trying to convert cups of this to cups of that, given the difference in wet and solid in US measurements.
I've been adding 1/4c compost or EWCs per gallon, and I've been having success.
Where are you at during the plants life? Flowering? Veg? I'll give you a couple of my recipes and you can go from their and put your own touches on them!
I've got a 12/12 from seed gang pretty much, and when you look at the bud to leaf ratio on them, it's obvious that the teas are doing WORK!
