Advanced Lighting Spectrums for T5 Floro and LED

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
your light spectrum is fine from what im seeing. iMO

i feel the tigh assness but if i where you i would go with HPS over halogen cause you can get more watts for the same amount of heat and more light for the same amount of watts.

it may not be the proper far red but that is just because the 630nm peak dominates the chart. this doesnt mean they dont effectively produce other reds, which they do, they just seem small because of the large spike, but actually beyond the 630nm point, HPS has a decent amount of red and far red, thus why it has been an effective light.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
It's been awhile since I been back to the forums. I was traveling the UK and Scotland for the last month. So amazing up there! Especially from a "high" perspective. No really, if you can get yourself up high and overlook the ocean and castle, the view in Edenborough is amazing.

Why hasn't this thread been continuing? Not interesting enough for everyone? LOL

I've just started another LED project. I will be using the 200w driver from Excel technology.(not sure on the spelling) These drivers rock! 90% eff.

They have 700mA and 1.02A versions for the driver. I have both!

Any new spectrum realization anyone? Any new grows? Any new etc.?
Heyyyyyyyyyyy!

Come by my grow thread- 2 tents still using HOT5s but been focusing on leds

 

SCARHOLE

Well-Known Member
"I believe UVb light can be helpful for terpene production in the last few weeks of budding to increase flavor, smell, potency, but are useless anytime before the last 3 weeks of flower. This goes for any light wave lower than 450nm. Also, it has been found that 450nm will increase terpene/thc production as it is close to the deep blue wavelength. So it really is not necessary to add UVb into your grow. Your eyes will thank me."


Hello fonzerrelli

Is there any scientific literature that corroborates this?
It has me facinated.
So far blue an UVA will trigger uvr8 stress reactions?
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
"I believe UVb light can be helpful for terpene production in the last few weeks of budding to increase flavor, smell, potency, but are useless anytime before the last 3 weeks of flower. This goes for any light wave lower than 450nm. Also, it has been found that 450nm will increase terpene/thc production as it is close to the deep blue wavelength. So it really is not necessary to add UVb into your grow. Your eyes will thank me."


Hello fonzerrelli

Is there any scientific literature that corroborates this?
It has me facinated.
So far blue an UVA will trigger uvr8 stress reactions?
Many of the posts I see trying to test for UVB are using fluoros which also have a lot of UVA and some other wavelengths. Many of them are using HPS lighting as their main light, which probably means any supplemental in the 400 to 500 nm ranges is benneficial irregardless of the UVB effect.

I am also wondering if providing actinic blues (420, 450) is good enough for the UVB terpene effect
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Many of the posts I see trying to test for UVB are using fluoros which also have a lot of UVA and some other wavelengths. Many of them are using HPS lighting as their main light, which probably means any supplemental in the 400 to 500 nm ranges is benneficial irregardless of the UVB effect.

I am also wondering if providing actinic blues (420, 450) is good enough for the UVB terpene effect
yes, but UVB has a far greater effect.
 

Fonzarelli

Active Member
I have a hard time believing anymore that 450nm is enough blue by itself.

At one time I thought it would be enough after seeing so many finished grows utilizing 450nm for the only blue, but it doesn't make sense.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Agreed. This is what I thought was wrong with the actinic approach The Prof was touting.

The only 'actinic' bulb I use/d was the UVL 660, and only because it was a gift from UVL. 3 complete grows, and no discernible benefit. I tossed it, as according to UVL it has a 2-3 flowering cycle useful life. Many think they need a bunch of 660 leds to flower, in spite of this contrary data:


As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right' ) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'.
>
Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.

(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
TheDude, I know you didn't ask my opinion, but since we have identical grow spaces thought you might want to consider: I have a BB 8 bulb, currently running 6 bulbs due to plant size. Last grow I ran all 8.

If I had it to do over (in my space) I would get 6 bulb for the canopy + 2 @ 2 bulb to running horizontally under the canopy on each side

The future of cfls on this planet is short, due to toxicity of mercury and the advances in LEDs

I just ordered 4 @ 23w LED Tubes to infill in my LED tent, and as my HOT5 bulbs lose intensity I will convert to LEDs, which will likely improve over time, although these aren't too shabby.

If interested drop by my thread
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Yep T8s. Just opened the box. They are very well made. Next stop Lowes for a 4 bulb T8 fixture ($50)

Being pragmatic, I will run the BB until all the bulbs I have lose intensity, or I score some $$$$
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
So a trade off with the up front cost of the T8 LED Tubes balanced by the lower operating cost? Aren't the T8's new and untried? Which spectrums did you get? Good luck with the new ways. With your experience with the Bad Boys, what would you suggest for a 6 lamp veggie and flowering? Thanks, PetFlora.

The info is in my thread. Let's move the conversation over there
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
dang this thread is still going. the original thread fell off a long time ago. pet. Im actually having great results with 2 redsuns, 2 coral waves and 4 5400k from htg. long story short I pretty much sat on my flora suns and broke them. thats why Im using the 5400k's , im surprised they are working as well as they are,. I don't think they are tri phosphor. I think they may be full spectrum. similar to flora suns. but less 660. there is no spd for them so its just speculation and trial and error. but you can get an 8 pack of htg bulbs for $45 on their ebay store.


dude check his signature. every one puts links to their thread in the sig

Apache tech is coming out with t8 led tubes soon.$35 each and 300+ umole/s per bulb. . I'm going to do a tent with those maybe. Definitely run 4 bulb set ups for side lighting in the cmh garden
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
Agreed. This is what I thought was wrong with the actinic approach The Prof was touting.

The only 'actinic' bulb I use/d was the UVL 660, and only because it was a gift from UVL. 3 complete grows, and no discernible benefit. I tossed it, as according to UVL it has a 2-3 flowering cycle useful life. Many think they need a bunch of 660 leds to flower, in spite of this contrary data:


As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right' ) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'.
>
Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.

(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
Actinic light is <500nm.. so i don't know if your really getting the concept. if you cant describe the tool you use, you cant hammer a nail with a banana.
that being said its about the combination of fuller spectrum rather than one or two discreet wavelengths.
I was never "touting" al of my experiments were based on actual scientific peer reviewed data.

View attachment 2853512
Math and science doesn't lie, I will place my science against your tom foolery any day.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Prof you are quoting an article from 8 years ago. led tech advances every few months. That article has no bearing on todays leds. They have com a long way since you started your thread. They are utilizing white leds now instead of blue. Covering a full spectrum and improving yield and quality with less watts and higher par. There are shitty leds out there but there are great ones. Area51's use cree xp-g led's and their panels are 155w and 175w each , 1100 umole/s and 2 will cover a 4x4. Dawg hit 1 gram per watt with a51. Captainmorgan hit around 7 zips in a 3x3 with a 190w of 2700k warm white Cree led globes from home depot..9.5w each. Those use Cree x-te high voltage led's. Hans leds use Cree x-bd and osram lh led's. 65w and covers a 2x2.5. People hit 1.5 - 2 grams a watt with those. Apache techs are good lights too. They are covering same area with less watts and higher par. For similar costs of par t5. With good warranties. Then Philips allstart 330w CMH kick ass. Cover a 3x4. Will handle a 4x5 in vert. I grew with them before. They put out a white light full spectrum. 1400 umole/s at 12 inches away.
 
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