630nm:660nm ratio?

On another side note, does anyone know if there are certain wavelengths that tend to bleach if the plants get too close? I've been trying to find that answer but have not had much success.
 
brotherjericho said:
On another side note, does anyone know if there are certain wavelengths that tend to bleach if the plants get too close? I've been trying to find that answer but have not had much success.
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Bleaching happens with energy laden, short wavelength light - UV, violet, blue. For our purposes blue is the culprit almost invariably.
 
brotherjericho said:
Inhibits or enhances flowering? I'd certainly not want the former. Not considering the FR after lights off at all right now, just wondering what effect FR has during all stages of flowering. The FR can be there during stretch, but how much blue would you need to counteract the presence of it? If I'm moving from 6500k for veg into a spectrum with much more red, I expect stretch. But tossing in the FR to an amount that exceeds what it came from by quite a bit might make the plants want to stretch even more than if I leave it out.

By vegging under 6500k for a total of 18 hours, I'm already creating an environment that is nothing like the sun, so I'm not concerned with mimicking during bloom. I just want a good spectrum that a) gives good yields and b) does not create more of a stretch than I already experience.
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Enhances.I love how my spell check on my kindle gets inhibit from aids. No.pun intended. I'ma correct that.

Since it causes plants to start flowering earlier. Stretch and node spacing is about the same as hps..
 
brotherjericho said:
Yes, all things considered, I'm not talking about total overall spectrum, but the ratio of 630nm to 660nm.
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BUT the appropriate ratio of 630:660 depends on a lot on what else is in or is missing from the spectrum. If you want the perfect spectrum then match true sunlight. If you want to manipulate for economics then use sunlight but lower the green waves somewhat to economize.
 
^^ Right now I'm aiming for B:G:R ratio of 20:10:70 (not LEDs but percentage). I was looking at 10:15:75 before but I hypothesize that 20% might help with initial stretch and with sativas during bloom, since I tend to grow sativa dominants.
 
brotherjericho said:
Dead Apollo eh? What happened?
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To be honest I wish i knew for sure, but to the best of my knowledge one or two clusters prob had some bad leds in them, one day i turned it on and there was 3 out of 16 lit up! I was pissed to say the least , but i think by some clusters going bad the drivers pushed all the current through the remaining clusters blowing most of them out, or so I was told by the company...tough to say, but the drivers are still ok so getting my new clusters some time next week or so i hope
IMAG0153(1).jpg
 
Brother Jericho, if I may, but stuff green. Unless your using your light in a greenhouse, green is a waste of energy. Go with some NWs, (much better efficiency and intensity), if you really want green, but without sunlight it does DICK for MMJ growers. And if you don't believe me, read the study. Too many people only read some of the study, (or chose to take only what was in line with their opinion), about how green works with plants. But if you want stretched to shit plants, then green up, because it will signal the leaf avoidance process in the presence of red/blue light as about as good as FR does by itself. And some 6500K+ plus lights will work good IMO to keep stretch at a minimal. Found that out when my plants didn't stretch to shit with my 5x60 panel on. Oh and I forgot to mention that the LEDs were set at 90 degree beam angles except the FR which was set for 120 degrees. The idea behind that was that I wasn't really growing with FR as much as it having a presence in my tent.

Just had to throw that in here.
 
FranJan said:
Brother Jericho, if I may, but stuff green. Unless your using your light in a greenhouse, green is a waste of energy. Go with some NWs, (much better efficiency and intensity), if you really want green, but without sunlight it does DICK for MMJ growers. And if you don't believe me, read the study. Too many people only read some of the study, (or chose to take only what was in line with their opinion), about how green works with plants. But if you want stretched to shit plants, then green up, because it will signal the leaf avoidance process in the presence of red/blue light as about as good as FR does by itself. And some 6500K+ plus lights will work good IMO to keep stretch at a minimal. Found that out when my plants didn't stretch to shit with my 5x60 panel on. Oh and I forgot to mention that the LEDs were set at 90 degree beam angles except the FR which was set for 120 degrees. The idea behind that was that I wasn't really growing with FR as much as it having a presence in my tent.

Just had to throw that in here.
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The green I mentioned was going to come solely from white LEDs, not targeting anything at all in the green spectrum. Right now I'm looking to customize my own DIY panel instead of buying one from Cidly or Bysen. Mostly going to use whites and reds, nothing else. Its the trend, but it seems to be a good one.
 
Gotcha, just be careful choosing your whites. Some whites use very intense blue dies that will easily overpower your reds. If those blues start bleaching your plants and if you back off your panel, your reds will be nothing more than weak red colored light to the plants. Works in veg, sucks in flower basically. Lots of people miss that when building panels. Good Luck with your DIY project btw.
 
Thanks, mostly going with Cree WW, with potentially some NWs to bump up the blue a tad. I have a panel configured 16 WW: 4 CW: 10 Reds. Still studying the whole 630nm:660nm thing to get that ratio down but I like the distribution when I use 7 DR: 3 R.
 
If I were building a panel, I'd have lots of different switches so that I could turn off colors and/or groups of lights as I wanted. FranJan is right about the bleaching. The only thing that saved my height-restricted mini-fridge grow from getting toasted was the fact that I could turn off the blues and leave on the flowering spectrum lights once bleaching started to occur.
 
^^Yup switches are good, but the newer CREES are (assumption alert) dimmable, so that's a nice feature to have when you run into bleaching, plus they can take quite a bit of calculating out of one's decisions about pairing them with the right reds.
 
FranJan said:
Gotcha, just be careful choosing your whites. Some whites use very intense blue dies that will easily overpower your reds. If those blues start bleaching your plants and if you back off your panel, your reds will be nothing more than weak red colored light to the plants. Works in veg, sucks in flower basically. Lots of people miss that when building panels. Good Luck with your DIY project btw.
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I assumed that Cidly had put in three blues instead of the 2x6.5k/1x10k.. I'm a bit freaked out with my pale green seedlings so have backed off to around 24" or so. I have 75% reds but they are simply a red tinge in comparison ... y think i might struggle in flowering franjan? Surely, the 'traditional' spectrum inc. blues would be stronger still (distance/bleaching in mind)..
 
MY assessment of 660

When you use only deep Reds and cool Blues, you will likely need 660 as this combo completely misses the 550- 600 range, which helps drive the 630+ spectrums

Thanks to current white diode technology that has a wide 600-630, which provides 95% of the PS, the 660 ship should have sailed. Human rebooting is hard to do

I am in the process of proving it in my thread by using only WW diodes to cover the reds during flower, but so are others, like captainmorgan who is late in flower using only CREE WWs- his result to date is amazing

So, it's complicated, but when using > 90% WWs, then 660 only ~ 10%. If I were going to incorporate them, I would put them on a separate switch
 
Cot Morgan is using 5000k too. He has more ww than Nw though.

Pet ive seen shit take off due to 660. Add some . You will get bigger and frostier buds and bigger leaves. Larger leaves transpire at a faster rate than smaller leaves. Plants veg faster too
 
I admit to being somewhat confused by this post...

PetFlora said:
MY assessment of 660

When you use only deep Reds and cool Blues, you will likely need 660 as this combo completely misses the 550- 600 range, which helps drive the 630+ spectrums
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If you are already using deep reds, why would you need 660? Don't you mean you'll need some 630s? Not sure what you are trying to say here.

Thanks to current white diode technology that has a wide 600-630, which provides 95% of the PS, the 660 ship should have sailed. Human rebooting is hard to do
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PS? Please clarify. There is a huge curve in the deep red range for chloro A absorption, so why would you leave it out altogether?

I am in the process of proving it in my thread by using only WW diodes to cover the reds during flower, but so are others, like captainmorgan who is late in flower using only CREE WWs- his result to date is amazing
So, it's complicated, but when using > 90% WWs, then 660 only ~ 10%. If I were going to incorporate them, I would put them on a separate switch
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Why a separate switch? What is the harm in having the DR all throughout?
 
turnip brain said:
Look up threads by Stardustsailor. There may be value in tapering rather than a hard switch from bluer veg spectrum to redder flowering spectrum to help control stretch early in the transition.
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I've been doing research on this, and there really is no correlation in deep red and stretch. Far red, certainly. Plants do not absorb much far red, so an excessive amount signals the plant to stretch to compete with other plants for light. The idea is that much of the reds have been absorbed by taller plants, leaving the shaded plant with too much far red, so it puts growth into the stem.
 
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