630nm:660nm ratio?

brotherjericho

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
brotherjericho said:
I've been doing research on this, and there really is no correlation in deep red and stretch. Far red, certainly. Plants do not absorb much far red, so an excessive amount signals the plant to stretch to compete with other plants for light. The idea is that much of the reds have been absorbed by taller plants, leaving the shaded plant with too much far red, so it puts growth into the stem.
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Let me back up on this one, because there is some truth here, but not sure how it applies to the red to deep red ratio, specifically. Plants use blue for leaf development, and red for stem, at least in the vegetative stage. That is why most want more blues in veg, so plants don't go tall and spindly. So yes, making sure you have a good blue level during the first days-weeks of flower should help control stretch to some extent.
 
brotherjericho

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
Well you do have a turnip brain! No one said you were an idiot, where did you get that from? All I stated was that there is no correlation in specifically deep red and stretch. Too much any red vs blue will cause stretch, that is why people use bluer MH to veg and red-yellow HPS to flower.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
Cot Morgan is using 5000k too. He has more ww than Nw though.

Pet ive seen shit take off due to 660. Add some . You will get bigger and frostier buds and bigger leaves. Larger leaves transpire at a faster rate than smaller leaves. Plants veg faster too
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Last grow was same plant (the mother). I added my UFO 90 (R/B with a fair amount of 660s) so it's at the ready should you guys be right. Need to see it with my own eyes

I had a new 660 in my HOT5 tent for several grows, but can't say it added enough to justify its' cost
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Blue and deep red go to leaf and stem growth. Blue only in veg . Will take off and stretch like crazy. Red helps keep node spacing to minimum in veg. Then the opposite in flower. Deep red will promote larger leaves. More stomatas to open and faster rate of respiration. Which will promote faster growth. 3 bulbs in my veg t5 have 640-660. 5400k's are full spectrum Im guessing by results in flower and veg. But the ones in veg I didn't train. But they are 2 1/2 ft tall and branched out like crazy and its day 33 in veg. They have huge leaves. the bulbs also.have a good amount of 460.

I also have a theory of 420nm stunting growth in veg and flower. Which I've stated in frans melatonin thread. I try not to have any 420mm. I like warm whites and neutral whites. most have blue peaks at 440-460. No 420 or very little.

I will be posting updates later today in my thread if you want to see what I mean.
 
brotherjericho

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
Yes, it is obvious that people grow all the time without using 660nm supplement. If you are using whites, you're already getting a bit in the deep red already. But we're talking about maximizing what you can do with lighting and cannabis growth/yield, and there is no denying that the largest peak of absorption for chloro A in the red zone takes place in the deep red region.
 
FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Tazbud said:
I assumed that Cidly had put in three blues instead of the 2x6.5k/1x10k.. I'm a bit freaked out with my pale green seedlings so have backed off to around 24" or so. I have 75% reds but they are simply a red tinge in comparison ... y think i might struggle in flowering franjan? Surely, the 'traditional' spectrum inc. blues would be stronger still (distance/bleaching in mind)..
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How's your node spacing? Tight and pale would be back off to me, but pale and stretchy means get it in more. Still seedling are seedlings and don't need too much light at first, especially LED/heavy blue light, (learned that in the last Cup comp :)). If your blues are running at 700ma and your reds at the same or less, could mean a more leafy grow or stress from the proximity of the blues. Now the red tinge doesn't mean too much since your reds may be residing in the Deep/Far/IR section which is tough for us to see. Worse case scenario would be you would have to add some supplemental 630/660 really. But grow it out and see how your strains like your light. Could be a winner, you don't know till ya try sometimes.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
SnotBoogie said:
My point was that you cant say "this grow has no 660nm and is good, therefore no 660nm is good".
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I hear you, but how much and where to position thee diodes for max effect on say a 150w rectangular (or square) fixture. That gets complicated

I have used it in both my HOT5 and LED tent, so it's not like I haven't seen it in action, but as you suggest some strains may want it. My first grow with BrandXs cross was very nice. I won't know how well she does without it until I see where this non 660 goes. Probably 2 more weeks before it becomes an issue for me to consider

This is why I recommend it being on a separate circuit

In the end how much will it improve your quality &/or yield v how much did it cost to implement?

Keep it mind 660 won't last as long as whites, so if incorporated into a fixture, can they be easily replaced once they lose intensity?

Good news for led tubers who are into 660, Agro makes a 660 LED tube. How wide it disperses I don't know but it covers 4 ft, so you might need 2 for 6-8 bulb fixture to optimize coverage, but it is $71
 
brotherjericho

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
The only reason (off the top of my head) that would explain whites lasting longer is that many of them are max 1.0 - 1.5A, while the reds are .7. So you drive all of your chips at .7...you get the picture.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
So.a 700 mA dimmable and a 1050mA dimmable.

EH where do you get the 500mA drivers in the a51 a51 a51? Or something similar.


Hey he's like beetle juice say a51 enough times and he appears
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
I had a new 660 in my HOT5 tent for several grows, but can't say it added enough to justify its' cost
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UVL 660's are way expensive for what you get. I'm using cheap leds with 660 instead. Seems that any deep reds is costly\hard in fluoros.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I.had better results with flora suns than UVL 660. Those 2 bulbs was the biggest waste of money. It. Cost $80 for 2 bulbs too. Freight cost more than one bulb from Ohio....
Best t5 mix imo. Is 4 flora suns and 4 redsuns.
 
T

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
FranJan said:
How's your node spacing? Tight and pale would be back off to me, but pale and stretchy means get it in more. Still seedling are seedlings and don't need too much light at first, especially LED/heavy blue light, (learned that in the last Cup comp :)). If your blues are running at 700ma and your reds at the same or less, could mean a more leafy grow or stress from the proximity of the blues. Now the red tinge doesn't mean too much since your reds may be residing in the Deep/Far/IR section which is tough for us to see. Worse case scenario would be you would have to add some supplemental 630/660 really. But grow it out and see how your strains like your light. Could be a winner, you don't know till ya try sometimes.
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Short, small leaved, still growing but faded. Iv'e raised the light and they seemed happier straight away. Iv'e seen just about every warning mentioned on LED's but piece-of-mind is a selling point. A couple of hundred $ saved may = some stress & stuffing around (unless 100% sure of the LEDS as well as the spectrum)
 
G

glennorch

Active Member
I've been also told many times that more 660nm than 630nm will make your plants stretch... but I think it's because some guys read the PDFs on Emerson effect and phitochrome, where they say the excess of far red will make plants stretch more (far red=700-800nm), but I couldn't find any study discussing on 630 vs 660nm. I guess we need to test it or look for more info. Maybe studies done with Chrisantemum flowers, which are also short night plants and more widespread than cannabis lol.
 
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