OK, here's the deal. I blasted around 150 grams fresh-frozen and once it cooked down in the pyrex I poured in the everclear. I froze for 24 hours (I know some say 48 hours), filtered through 2 coffee filters and now I have it in a pyrex tray on the griddle at the lowest setting. I think the solution is evaporating due to the heat but it's going slow. Should I bump up the temps? Don't want to darken or ruin my oil. Any tips tricks or advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks and best regards.
How long does it take the everclear to evaporate?
- Thread starter adam soza
- Start date
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't rush it with more heat. You blasted a good amount so it'll take a little time unfortunately. Maybe add a fan to speed up evap time
WarMachine
Well-Known Member
what temperature do you have the griddle set at by the way?
2Kushed
Active Member
I put mine in a pie plate in water sitting on three lid rings in a skillet of warm water. It is heated with a hot plate. The EtOH is heated 130-140F with a fan blowing across the plate. I block the wind from the hot plate. I think it takes an hour or two to evaporate the liquid down to mostly hash. It will take the rest of the day to purge @ 130-140F (no fan and don't need to block hot plate).
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Anything above about 85F darkens the oil, so if you want blond material, may I suggest cold boiling in a vacuum?
All other things being equal, darker material still smells, taste, and effect the same as lighter colored material, so how much effort you are willing to put into it for appearance is a personal call.
As far as ruining it, define ruin? The standards are different depending on end use.
I infer that you are looking for dabbing oil, not an oral, so you will want to remove the alcohol with the least amount of heat possible, and the suggestion of a fan is a good one, with the caveat that in humid climates, if you blow directly across the pool of alcohol, the hygroscopic alcohol will pick up additional water and you will end up with tan colored water after reaching the azeotropic balance point between the water and alcohol.
We like to remove alcohol for dabbables by cold boiling it away under -29.5" Hg vacuum. At that vacuum level, the ethanol boils at -8C/17.6F and leaves a light colored extract.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Yes, we redissolve the BHO in 190 proof ethanol, put it in a freezer for 48 hours, and then filter out the plant waxes, in a process called winterizing, to produce an Absolute Amber.
BluJayz
Well-Known Member
Awesome chart! Thanks dawg!
OK here's the update. I left it on the griddle on the lowest setting (150) and it took over a day to evaporate. Problem was when I went to sleep it was still runny. When I woke up it was almost impossible to scrape up. I have what little I could scrape in the vac chamber right now. We shall see what I end up with. I might of perma-gooood this batch who knows. Thanks for the info fadedawg always appreciated.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I scored it from Skyhighler on forum x.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Heat and vacuum turn it into wax. Heat decarboxylates it as well, which turns it from shatter to oil.
Did I understand correctly that, following the boiling points,
the vacuum shifts the graphics of decarboxylation?
Short heating to the boiling point of water
during the evaporation of ethanol on a steam bath at atmospheric pressure,
leaves amber in brittle form, not decarboxylated.
the vacuum shifts the graphics of decarboxylation?
Short heating to the boiling point of water
during the evaporation of ethanol on a steam bath at atmospheric pressure,
leaves amber in brittle form, not decarboxylated.
Kanivers
Active Member
No, I would say absolutely not. Time to filter that bitch though!