Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Give it a good flush and then resume a balanced food application. Flush with rainwater.Hey all im havin quiet bad salt build up in soil.
Would i be better just removing it or giving her a good flush??
Give it a good flush and then resume a balanced food application. Flush with rainwater.Hey all im havin quiet bad salt build up in soil.
Would i be better just removing it or giving her a good flush??
Are you serious???? you are removing salts with teaspoons?? you got that much of them? I did not think that's even possible lol..Cheers UB i'll flush her in the mornin. I removed aload of it (20ish teaspoons) as i checked my run off and my ppm meter went nuts (over 4000ppm) so i got worried lol. Cheers for the reply matey
Not sure what the question is Billy. Like I've said in my posts, I've used high N foods all the way thru flowering to retain leaves in a green and healthy condition until harvest. Check out Homebrewers edited journal. He did a study between Dyna Gro's Grow and the Foliage Pro and the high N food, 9-3-6, out performed the high P food in yield. The of the biggest mistakes growers make around here is to switch to high P or K foods. They lose their leaves reducing yields and wonder why.Hey UB I wanted to ask you something . What is your philosophy with the High N lead on flower fertilizer ?
you fought with others in the past? I don't believe it,lolKinda remember that but since I was not into hydro, I really never paid it much attention. If you looked at Lucas and "his" formula (aka 'Newbie' during the days of cannabis.com) he had the K way up over the N, which a lot of hydro manufacturers do. I still don't get that, and no one to this day has explained to me why that is - that K is always quite a bit higher than N for a typical Grow food.
Whatever happened to pH? Man, did he and I ever get into the soil versus hydro fights! Remember those? Hell, we just fought on everything. Nothing but power plays. I remember his farce Yield-O-Rama. Man, was that a scientific study.
You have a good memory....has it really been that long, 17 frickin' years? Ahhhhhhhh, the good ol days. When the hell are we gonna give up this crap hehe?
The N to K ratio that you see in many formula's today evolved from plant tissue analyses Of tomatoes . When forcing the flowering of a tomatoes the N to K ratio is very important If N exceeds K harvest will be very reduced . And since many Fertilizer company's test there products on tomatoes and other night shades . there is a chapter in a book called hydroponic food production dr howard resh . that explains it a whole lot better .Kinda remember that but since I was not into hydro, I really never paid it much attention. If you looked at Lucas and "his" formula (aka 'Newbie' during the days of cannabis.com) he had the K way up over the N, which a lot of hydro manufacturers do. I still don't get that, and no one to this day has explained to me why that is - that K is always quite a bit higher than N for a typical Grow food.
Whatever happened to pH? Man, did he and I ever get into the soil versus hydro fights! Remember those? Hell, we just fought on everything. Nothing but power plays. I remember his farce Yield-O-Rama. Man, was that a scientific study.
You have a good memory....has it really been that long, 17 frickin' years? Ahhhhhhhh, the good ol days. When the hell are we gonna give up this crap hehe?
Shit I think back in 96-97 I Was all into Pokemon cards and still had recess .Hey UB, do you remember in the early days of adpc (96-97), most indoor hydro growers used GH Flora series nutes, and the ageed-upon rate to use was 5 ml of each (5-5-5), instead of the bottle instructions? Then some of us started using half of that, at 2.5 ml of each. I don't even remember what the bottle instructions are, but we had great grows using that small amount, and in equal parts instead of upping the Bloom during flowering.
Then after that, pH (the guy) came up with the theory that Nitrate Nitrogen was more abundant in the Micro component than Ammonium Nitrogen, and the opposite was true of the Grow component, so we did a large group experiment growing crops using only the Micro and Bloom components to see if it works better, and then young Lucas posted it on the web and it became known as the Lucas formula.
It was all about N and P back then too.
Didn't realize he was that old but who am I to talk, I'm right behind him.Well, if pH is still around, he is in his late-70's now. He was a brilliant resource for many early internet growers.
Interesting and it makes sense. I often see the N deficiency with Hydro growers and when they fess up to what they've been using, it's always something with a high K to N ratio.The N to K ratio that you see in many formula's today evolved from plant tissue analyses Of tomatoes . When forcing the flowering of a tomatoes the N to K ratio is very important If N exceeds K harvest will be very reduced . And since many Fertilizer company's test there products on tomatoes and other night shades . there is a chapter in a book called hydroponic food production dr howard resh . that explains it a whole lot better .
At least you weren't still messin' in your drawers like I accuse many of the smart ass kids that play here.Shit I think back in 96-97 I Was all into Pokemon cards and still had recess .
Mr. Skunk #1.Well, if pH is still around, he is in his late-70's now. He was a brilliant resource for many early internet growers.
Can it be the also the case why people are removing leaves of tomatoes during the flowering period and claim to have better fruiting results? Since leaves store quite a lot of N in there, but so does it keep K in there... I had an argument with my mother when I was telling not to cut any leaves but my beliefs were based on mj plant foliage removal.. And she said that generatiosns of people around here were removing leaves and getting better results..The N to K ratio that you see in many formula's today evolved from plant tissue analyses Of tomatoes . When forcing the flowering of a tomatoes the N to K ratio is very important If N exceeds K harvest will be very reduced . And since many Fertilizer company's test there products on tomatoes and other night shades . there is a chapter in a book called hydroponic food production dr howard resh . that explains it a whole lot better .
Suckering a tomato is much like some of the misguided paradigms here. Grandma did it that way as did her Ma and Pa, and that's the way its gonna be. They don't give in to the fact that they're destroying the plant's food production machine. One of my tomato plants finishes out at 7'H X 5' W and produces at least a hundred pounds. I grow in large cages I make out of a roll of 5' concrete hardware cloth, mesh 6"X6". I have a gardening friend who gives his tomatoes pure N, ammonium sulfate, never suckers them (of course) and his production is incredible. Blew me away when I heard it. But it makes sense, his soil does not have any N, as do most native soils in my area. Excuse the pun, but you have to dig for all the information and then put it together in proper context.Can it be the also the case why people are removing leaves of tomatoes during the flowering period and claim to have better fruiting results? Since leaves store quite a lot of N in there, but so does it keep K in there... I had an argument with my mother when I was telling not to cut any leaves but my beliefs were based on mj plant foliage removal.. And she said that generatiosns of people around here were removing leaves and getting better results..
Don't worry no ones gonna bash your tomatoes. How good do you expect a plant to be when all it has is a window with minimal light coming through to get as big as all the outdoor ones. Looks good to me!View attachment 2803078
Please don't make fun of those tomatoes, they never meant to look that way Still I got like 60 tomatoes per those 3 plants and still harvesting them...
Also I know that this is not a tomatoes forum, just a question derived from discussion.
Cheers