Tags High Efficiency Lighting Garden

hyroot said:
A51 uses X-PG and X-PE. I still agree with X-TE's being better
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Sorry, I got ahead of myself again. A51 said a while ago that their new model is going to be xt-e's. Then it says they will be the xp-g/e's for the pre-orders. My thoughts are that they have an inventory of the old chips then the xt-e's will be put in. That is just what I think and hope is going to happen and is not fact. But you get me about the xt-e's.
 
hahahahaha please listen to this. You will laugh your ass off. This definitely applies to what has transpired in this thread today


[video=youtube_share;RFCrJleggrI]http://youtu.be/RFCrJleggrI[/video]
 
Xml l2 are the best man!

just kidding...haha

no led wins till I see a 40oz bottle size cola with resin dripping off of it. Not no 10000w led garden either. 1000w or less...
 
The xml2's are pretty good. And actually slightly better at higher drive currents I believe. That is when it's tough to make the decision of more from one source or spread it out a little.

I agree as far as 1000w being the standard for performance. What is the 1000w doing that led's are not?
Here is a PAR foot print @24" of a lumatek 1000w w/ eye hortilux super hps bulb over a 4x4.
1000w_ballast_test_info_1.jpg

I will just say that no led out yet has numbers like that all over the footprint, and that is where/why I think led's have been lacking. PAR is what makes things true and fair to look at, it represents all the photons equally. But just like anything, it can be misleading if not shown all the info. Many led's can match the center number, but non hit those outer coverage numbers.

There are more graphs of several different major led's back in this thread...but they all came from growershouse and anyone can look at them on their site.
http://growershouse.com/blog/category/lighting/
And I made one for the at660. When you see all the graphs, it gets pretty clear on what has been going on.
 
I think it's simply single point intensity. If they made a 1000w single chip led I would imagine the intensity would begin to match if not well surpass hid.

thats why I chose the xml for my build. I just wanted to see how much of a role single dies play. If I could have run them at 3a max I would have but my heatsink wouldn't allow it. Just going back to the comparison 4 250s' doesn't match a 1000. That's why I've avoided the cobs so far...

im just guessing and having fun with it though. So far it's been more fruitful than anything I've bought, so ill continue tinkering for now. Chasing the intensity of a 600 + hid..
 
You are using good chips so I can see why it is working. I saw you were about to flip. Canopy looks super nice even. Now comes the real fun time.
 
Tags you should tell them at Apache to start developing panels for vert. So you can hang 1 or 2 lights. Instead 16 bulbs, 4 moguls, 12 Y Splitter Adapters. Then you can grow 6 ft tall plants in 10 gals ... Maybe a octagon shaped cylinder.... Or something. I would so be all over that.
 
hyroot said:
Tags you should tell them at Apache to start developing panels for vert. So you can hang 1 or 2 lights. Instead 16 bulbs, 4 moguls, 12 Y Splitter Adapters. Then you can grow 6 ft tall plants in 10 gals ... Maybe a octagon shaped cylinder.... Or something. I would so be all over that.
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I get the make a vert part, but what do you mean by the 16bulbs, 4mogals, 12 y splitters???
Hydrogrow made a vert style light. The directional lighting aspect of led's makes it difficult. You don't get the blending and combinations of light when all the sides only have a few lenses/diodes on it and are facing different ways. HPS(or CMH preferably) might the best for vert. Just because how the light works for the situation. Or maybe an induction without the reflector. Low heat could get close to the plants.

EDIT:
Is that what you need to do vert with the globes?
 
tags420 said:
I get the make a vert part, but what do you mean by the 16bulbs, 4mogals, 12 y splitters???
Hydrogrow made a vert style light. The directional lighting aspect of led's makes it difficult. You don't get the blending and combinations of light when all the sides only have a few lenses/diodes on it and are facing different ways. HPS(or CMH preferably) might the best for vert. Just because how the light works for the situation. Or maybe an induction without the reflector. Low heat could get close to the plants.

EDIT:
Is that what you need to do vert with the globes?
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yes that's how I would do it. Each vert socket / mogul have 4 bulbs. 3 Y socket splitter adapters per socket / mogul. Each mogul have one hang above the other. . If doing globes only. That should work in theory for up to 4 ft tall plants.

Similar to the vert cfl set up I have with the t5's.
 
Glad to see the thread back on something related to growing, seemed like this for a while lol
[video=youtube_share;RfrvnpfmsxY]http://youtu.be/RfrvnpfmsxY[/video]
Tags you would not happen to have the numbers for u/mole readings from the 420 in the back of your head would you? Curious what the edge of the footprint is receiving and do not have a fancy meter like you do, much appreciated.
 
I don't off hand. In laws are in town, so I have to be low key for a couple days. But growershouse did chart for an igrow. Not the same spectrum, but the induction is similar enough.

iGrow-400w-par-test-review-testimonial-infographic.jpg
 
tags420 said:
I know you do just fine beef. But you also have plenty of light/panels.

You may be using china/tiwan, but you also know what's up...
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AWWWWW shit yeah! :D

If I can't have the highest quality light, I'll just completely overkill that shit! :D

The one thing I do admit about my setup: I wish I had less blue.....
 
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