brooklynhiGh
Member
Thanks a ton for sharing your info. I def will keep on doing some growing and gaining knowledge so I can be as helpful as you have been. I will pick up those things and see how it goes. Thanks again
Live or die?
- Thread starter brooklynhiGh
- Start date
kermit2692
Well-Known Member
Ok so this is what I would do...didn't want to write this all out unless you might actually do it lol...I would start another plant next to it and use some better soil i'm not saying Mg won't work but i'm taking out variables that have high likelihood of causing problems! Most organic soils are Ph balanced, most nute lines are Ph balanced, water will not affect your Ph so effectively you now have no reason to ever worry about Ph one thing less to worry about! Use flouros for veg e and no nutes until about 8 inches..the plant leaves will fade a bit and that's when its time to start feeding..keep your flouros 2-4 inches from the plants this hugely stops stretching..make sure they say daylight on the box! tap water sits out about two days open before using to get rid of chlorine..set up a fan blowing indirect air and water at proper intervals and that's it for veg, no way to have all kinds of problems and using organic nutes gives you better flavor imo..you can buy a full line that will last one grow, search general organics go box..also if you like you can start training the plant at about 8-ten inches as well if you would like..for flowering use an hps, nothing will come close to the effectiveness of the hps..switch to the flower feeding schedule, make sure you're timers are good, no light leaks, and that's really about it! Simple way to remove guess work and start learning what you're looking for as signs things are going right..never over 80 degrees i'm the flower room..simple no nute burn, no Ph problems, you can also now give plain water without releasing nutes...I don't see the upside to using a delay release soil, never said it won't work if you know what you're doing just why use it if their are options out there made for growing pot!
brooklynhiGh
Member
Got it and trust I am taken it all in. As well as the time it took you to write this very informant passage. Now ill take some time to shop and clean up my grow room and make this grow actually count and thank you so much for your time and patients. I know this might be a little out there to ask but I would like to see one of your finished grows if you don't mind.
kermit2692
Well-Known Member
Sure...this is the only one I have on here besides a couple threads of my first successful grow because my other grows have been single bean multiple strain runs and I don't feel I can evaluate a strain from one plant..this grow was done exactly how I am suggesting to you only problem I had was a couple wilty days from under watering..only vegged then to about 14-18 inches before flowing so not my best yield but def good shit, pulled about 1.5 zips or so each plant if I remember correctly so not horrible for a 90 day grow from bean
https://www.rollitup.org/smoke-reports/523547-paradise-whiteberry-grow-smoke-report.html
https://www.rollitup.org/smoke-reports/523547-paradise-whiteberry-grow-smoke-report.html
kermit2692
Well-Known Member
Oh and if you click my profile the profile Pic is of some lower buds on that first successful grow (indoor) I was talking about..second overall indoor grow, first one failed due to my dumb ass not killing a male and going to the flower room with pollen on me 
brooklynhiGh
Member
Copy and wicked nice avatar .
Jloi
Well-Known Member
Since your willing to spend some money and your new to growing we'll do the "kiss" method. *keep it simple stupid.*. I still use this thinking because you'll grow great plants will little headaches. Remember these plants are thousands of years old, so I stay away from products claiming bigger,better ect. Most is there just to sell to make money. The 4 main things you' ll need to grow a great plant when it comes to the soil part is N,P,K and proper PH.
First if your ph is off it doesnt matter what you feed it, the plant can become locked out because it can't eat.
I like to mix a 50/50 blend of fox fram happy frog and fox farm ocean.
Use 2 to 3 tea spoons of dolomite lime powder per gallon of soil used....pellets will do but take longer, so I recommend powered.
1 to 2 pounds of worm casting high in nitrogen and will not burn plants.
i use extra perlite, I add 1 pound for 6 gallons of soil being used. It's great for drainage and root growth because it prevents the soil from being compacted.
i add a quarter cup of Epsom salt, and a cup of bone meal.
I use all this for 2, 3 gallon pots. I mix it in a rubber maid tote tub and let it sit for 2 weeks.
With this mix I can veg for 9 weeks and I've never had to feed growth nutes.
Get a ph tester. A red Hannah tester will do fine and costs about 30 bucks or so.
Tester calberating solution.
ph up and ph down solution for your water and the nutes
and pick up a bottle of veg and flower nutes. I like the "general hydroponics " brand. There 100% organic and organics nutes are hard to cause burning.
** I've said b4 I don't really need veg nutes but it's good to have on hand just in case. Ceartin strains want more then others
Id say about $150 bucks for everything if you shop around.
Theres 4 types of general nute categories
-100% organic
-synthetic , these are called organic but take longer to break down to feed
-50/50 blend,...50% organic and 50% synthetic
-chemical
I use 100% organic, there easy to use very hard to burn and they're the fastest type for the plant to eat with out running in to problems.
Organic soil is ph balanced out of the bag but the oyster shells they use to balance the soil runs out fast. So I use lime, she'll last the whole grow and will make sure the soil buffers out to a ph of 7 when fed and watered.
i like to ph my plan water and nutes to a 6.2 to a 6.4 then feed.
Let your water sit for 24 hours at room temp, do not water with cold or hot water, you can lock out nutes and or cause root rot.
mix your nutes and let sit for a day, I use a fish air stone to pump air into the nutes to balance out the ph./ then ph to the level I want.
this may look like a lot of stuff but it's the down and dirty basics I think, ...next lighting.
First if your ph is off it doesnt matter what you feed it, the plant can become locked out because it can't eat.
I like to mix a 50/50 blend of fox fram happy frog and fox farm ocean.
Use 2 to 3 tea spoons of dolomite lime powder per gallon of soil used....pellets will do but take longer, so I recommend powered.
1 to 2 pounds of worm casting high in nitrogen and will not burn plants.
i use extra perlite, I add 1 pound for 6 gallons of soil being used. It's great for drainage and root growth because it prevents the soil from being compacted.
i add a quarter cup of Epsom salt, and a cup of bone meal.
I use all this for 2, 3 gallon pots. I mix it in a rubber maid tote tub and let it sit for 2 weeks.
With this mix I can veg for 9 weeks and I've never had to feed growth nutes.
Get a ph tester. A red Hannah tester will do fine and costs about 30 bucks or so.
Tester calberating solution.
ph up and ph down solution for your water and the nutes
and pick up a bottle of veg and flower nutes. I like the "general hydroponics " brand. There 100% organic and organics nutes are hard to cause burning.
** I've said b4 I don't really need veg nutes but it's good to have on hand just in case. Ceartin strains want more then others
Id say about $150 bucks for everything if you shop around.
Theres 4 types of general nute categories
-100% organic
-synthetic , these are called organic but take longer to break down to feed
-50/50 blend,...50% organic and 50% synthetic
-chemical
I use 100% organic, there easy to use very hard to burn and they're the fastest type for the plant to eat with out running in to problems.
Organic soil is ph balanced out of the bag but the oyster shells they use to balance the soil runs out fast. So I use lime, she'll last the whole grow and will make sure the soil buffers out to a ph of 7 when fed and watered.
i like to ph my plan water and nutes to a 6.2 to a 6.4 then feed.
Let your water sit for 24 hours at room temp, do not water with cold or hot water, you can lock out nutes and or cause root rot.
mix your nutes and let sit for a day, I use a fish air stone to pump air into the nutes to balance out the ph./ then ph to the level I want.
this may look like a lot of stuff but it's the down and dirty basics I think, ...next lighting.
Jloi
Well-Known Member
For myself when. It comes to lighting I've tried a lot.
ive ran small cfl's large cfl's 150watt hps and 400watt hps. I stick with 400 watt cool tube.
you can not add lumes, lumes are based on light our eyes see. Since plants can't see light we'll say they can feel light penetration. 400 watt hps can have 55k lumes per bulb where a cfl can have 5k lumes. So lets say you have 11cfl's at 5k lumes some think that will "add" up to 55k lumes. I say it's false. Just just means you have a larger foot print of a 5k lumes of bulbs at the same light penetration.
Cfl's can get close to the plant due to low heat but are weak when it comes to plant penetration and light foot print.
If your going to veg with florecents look into t-5's. There cheap to run and stay cool. They have a better foot print and light penetration.
I like to run 400 watt mh and hps. A 400 watt raises my bill $12 dollars a month running 18/6. The 400 has a good foot print and great light penetration for 3 plants. Bulbs should be replaced after 18 months of use, because you loose lumes but your still using 400 watts,
Same goes for cfl's . So taking that into mind it costs me $30 bucks for a new hps bulb. It will cost you more to buy more cfl's and replace them rather them 1 hps bulb. I think the cfl growers don't take this into thought. Larger hard buds need more penetration, general rule of thumb, 50 watts per square foot of grow space. Also more lume penetration stops plant stretch and tighter node spacing.
Bottom line you have to pick what you can afford,size of room, and if you can control the heat in the room.
ive ran small cfl's large cfl's 150watt hps and 400watt hps. I stick with 400 watt cool tube.
you can not add lumes, lumes are based on light our eyes see. Since plants can't see light we'll say they can feel light penetration. 400 watt hps can have 55k lumes per bulb where a cfl can have 5k lumes. So lets say you have 11cfl's at 5k lumes some think that will "add" up to 55k lumes. I say it's false. Just just means you have a larger foot print of a 5k lumes of bulbs at the same light penetration.
Cfl's can get close to the plant due to low heat but are weak when it comes to plant penetration and light foot print.
If your going to veg with florecents look into t-5's. There cheap to run and stay cool. They have a better foot print and light penetration.
I like to run 400 watt mh and hps. A 400 watt raises my bill $12 dollars a month running 18/6. The 400 has a good foot print and great light penetration for 3 plants. Bulbs should be replaced after 18 months of use, because you loose lumes but your still using 400 watts,
Same goes for cfl's . So taking that into mind it costs me $30 bucks for a new hps bulb. It will cost you more to buy more cfl's and replace them rather them 1 hps bulb. I think the cfl growers don't take this into thought. Larger hard buds need more penetration, general rule of thumb, 50 watts per square foot of grow space. Also more lume penetration stops plant stretch and tighter node spacing.
Bottom line you have to pick what you can afford,size of room, and if you can control the heat in the room.