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Look into Americans for Safe Access. See what they are doing in your state. http://americansforsafeaccess.org/

Tomatoes have the damn suckers. lol It is weird how they lose flavor when you do that, huh. I'm growing some Green Zebra tomatoes this year. Sorry if I sounded rude. I just see people prune stuff like it's an Orchard or vineyard. Not taking into account those are perennials.

Lolli popping isn't sound horticultural practice. Foliage is needed for a stronger plant. Lolli-popping isn't done for any annual in the commercial greenhouses. It's just not a good idea. Daniels

I looked at that for minute and re-read it twice. WTF was that.

Check you rep. to get some answer. Also you need to add up the total watts. IAm5toned is good at this so ask him where he is a Mod of a section of a forum. First off you need the w or amps of the AC and fans. It will determine what breaker you need for Amps. My guess without looking it up...

Ding, Ding, there is the correct answer. Transpiration.

Kinda close. I'm tired and don't feel like typing it out better. I just went into it earlier. It's about looking for them to be droopy, MIR, then a few days later when they are droopy, feed till just a bit of water comes out. They wick up the water and nutrients. I kinda simplified it...

Well for the price and they only penetrate 6", it's a technology just not advanced enough yet. It's several years away from good. But Induction and Sulfur Plasma are coming. I saw grumpy's and wasn't that impressed by those. They are better I'm just not sold. A 400w CMH bulb is a Mogul...

He would say a few weeks like 4 to 6. Like 6" or bigger. They need a healthy well developed root system to wick the water.

Or not be lazy. Its a lot of reading but good stuff is in there. Riddleme left from a bunch of BS. He has his own site. Feel free to spend hours doing all that.

Well a pH of 6.1 is low and that's where you want it for his MIR. 2 to 3 times pot. So 1 gallon pot gets 2 to 3 gal. water. What is the pH when you add the fertilizer? That is an OK one but there are other cheap ones that are better. The ratio of 1-1-1 isn't as good as 3-1-2 (veg) or 2-3-1...

LED suck. CMH is the way to go. I run a few different w of them. Ansi code tells you ballast you need, This site has best price. 250w or 400w would do you. http://www.lightingsupply.com/CDM400S51-HOR-4K-ALTO.aspx

Yea, I bet cat shit is a real good soil additive. Wow, weak info to give a new grower. Heavy clay is no good either. Sandy Loam is the type of soil which is best.

I saw your seedlings. Sad and weak. You are way over your head spouting info you've read, but no real experience. So talk shit all you want on UB. He was growing cannabis when you were still crapping in you pants. Daniels

Lolli pop them before topping is bad info to me. The hormonal influence change by then and doesn't work as good.

The MIR will work fine for the bigger one or couple. Others not yet. His MIR you can use MG nutes. What NPK is it? Apple Cider vinegar works good for a cheap pH down. A pH tester is kind of important to see how much pH down it takes to get your tap water to 5.8 to 6.2 for the MIR. E-bay...

Nope, read it again.

Well I'm kinda hurried for an event I'm going to but I run my veg at 20/4 or 18/6 as I think they need the hours of rest. Long topic but Circadian rhythm is involved. 24/7 is OK, just saying. Not true on the 10hrs of light to induce females. Cannabis flowers when it has several 'nights' of...

fdd ends it with poor info. Terms are right. My grow journals have a ton of info as do any of UB or RiddMe's. I'm not a fan of Scrog, just cause its a time consumer and can be hard. Get a grow or two then mess with it. As UB says 'plan your garden. and grow out your plan'

I'm a huge fan of Jack's. Those Cfls sound OK. I'd have to look more at your dimensions for coverage. I'd say you got a few weeks (4 to 6) before you want to flower them. Depending on the set up. Pic of the closet would help. Is your air flow good enough? How are the temps?