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unlikely your heatsinks are warm not hot most insulation on wires is well over 100C, and even at high temps it will melt not burn if wire insulation were combustible that would be very bad for every electrical installation out there

for sure

now were getting somewhere! lets see inside of her

those meters were pretty far off of my fluke multimeter. a few percent or so

thts not true at all. theres just a ton more garbage lights out there than good ones. lots of reputable vendors out there PLC Fluence Apache Amare Timber California Light Works Tasty and Johnson when they were a thing Thats because most people here understand and value efficiency and arent as...

sorry im having a hard time understanding your questions, can you give it another try heatsinks are supposed to be hot thats what they do

you can tell that by looking at the par map on the previous page at only 24" the center reading is way too high and its 1/10 of that in the corners lenses are what scammer mfrs use to amplify their center par readings to sell more lights

wow thats quite the shift in spectrum what does dimming do to the efficiency?

wow youre at 250V inside your house with a loaded circuit? whats your voltage at the service entrance?

youre not wrong, they just dont know their product.

i personally wouldnt take an inefficient light for free... electricity is too expensive. At $1000 for unknown efficiency its not really in the conversation i would be interested in actual measurements if you do any (like measuring actual power draw at the wall, and measuring actual temperature...

what are you using to measure heat? have you measured that its actually pulling 1000W from the wall?

Thanks for the feedback Rahz seems at this point the results are still all over the map like we brought our shotgun to the rifle range.

the vast majority of customers reporting problems with holders are either using stranded wire or wire that is too big. in thousands of connections ive never seen an 18GA (1.0 mm diameter) solid wire not connect properly with a BJB or ideal on the first try. worth the investment

that would be a different test. i was just looking at gross efficacy also im in a tent so thats fine for my purposes imo. my cobs are 12-18" off top of canopy not being lazy (ok im being lazy) but can you link it here for others

doesnt matter. in series at 1400 mA you can run a good length of wire without much loss since it an 'A' driver yo want to put it where it is accessible not to pick, but in the interest of keeping threads tidy can you ask your build questions in one of the two threads you started about it...

i dont know which holders you have but most use 0.75mm max i dont mind helping but i gotta say its a bummer your vendor is offering you no support on this

including your board of course

yup but 420 is a shade below the 450-460 diodes used in most cobs im thinking youre bordering on uv with that method

fortunately they all are these days ;) your cobs wont "burn" as long as you have proper heatsinks. 1212s are rated for over 100W max 50 isnt "best". efficiency will continue to increase as you drop wattage 40 is more efficient than 50 30 is more efficient than 40 20 is more efficient than 30...