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Sorry fellas it's taken so long. Bacteria is a son-of-a-bitch. I really appreciate you guys sticking with me! I started another batch of clones after the ones I was supposed to transplant but failed as well. Another chiller for my reservoir and chemical ferts seem to be working. It came...

Maybe he weighs out cocaine... who knows...

I hear that! I have $400 worth of Hydro organic ferts (Botanicares Pro complete line) and a gallon of hygrozyme. Such a waste.

How can you be in this business and not know what a hermei is?

Digital scales are cheap. You can buy one from amazon.com for less then 10 bucks.

John, Look at your local water quality report. You are usually drinking 1-2 ppm of of chlorine at a time depending where you live (sometimes more). It is the same dose we are giving the plants. Actually slightly less @.5 ppm constant. If it is okay enough for us and your household garden, it...

You are going to need a hydroponic specific fert. They are yellowing because they have no Nitrogen. I would suggest GH's line because its very easy to use and cheaper then a lot on the market. If you want to do hydro organic then you will need beneficial bacteria such as Plantacillin to ward...

Once the plant exits its seedling phase they can be pumped with light. @ optimal conditions each plant should be receiving 5,000-10,000 lumens. Each bulb you have is around 1700 give or take. The more light in veg, the bigger the plant. You need light in both phases. If thats not fert burn...

Only have a fan exchanging the air. Never blow a fan directly on them because they will not dry evenly. The less stem, the less water the bud will have to leach out. I like to put them in a jar right before the stem breaks and burp the jars a few times. This lends a hand to better flavors.

also, cover those two pots that arnt being used. You want that thing 100% light proof.

Add more light! at least 4 26w cfl's per plant! Have a fan exchanging the air? You need three fans (or two if the intake is cleverly placed). Lay off the veg ferts a bit, they are looking burt on some tips and on the bottom. Ditch the Superthrive. Make sure your water temp never exceeds 72...

Yeah, this shit takes time or 12/12

My Blue Apollos respond very well to topping. I do let them recover for two weeks before I flower. Every grow has been different and I have done comparisons with my plant. I have noticed that topping and bushmaster always increases my yields.

Never mind fellas, I read through the posts again and saw Fatman posting a dissipation of 2ppm over a 24 hour period. I did just that to my res, 2 tsp for 50 gallons for a total of 2 ppm. The reservoir smells a lot better and the plants are perky! So I am thinking 2.5 ml a day to keep a .5...

Heat and light intensity.

Thanks guys for the info! Im running a chemical grow in an ebb and flow. I keep my water at 60 degrees and have been using Dutchmaster Zone and 1ml/g of h202. After 4 days my res starts to smell like pond water. My roots are white but notice a white slick residue on some of the plastic parts...

Sounds like you are feeding them too much. The tops of the plants are perky which means they are getting plenty of ferts. I would flush and start at 300 ppm (half your original) until they start to eat and your ppm's lower.

Its late for a lot of things being three weeks in. I wouldn't top it, rather might try Bushmaster. i used Bushmaster in the 2nd week will great results.

In an optimized setting you want the air in the room to exchanged every three minutes. This will not only keep the temps in check, but offer fresh co2 for the plants all the time. A fan pulling the hot air is a great start! Sucking the hot air from around the bulb would be ever better...

In order for him to run co2 efficiently, he would have to turn off the exhaust while spraying, or go full micro climate. Turning off the exhaust would cause the heat to build even more pushing that room into the 90's.