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ebb and flow, if done right, is less prone to root diseases, but as you said, the drainage must be good. The drainage pipe should be okay imo as long as the bottom of the tray where the roots are sitting is perfectly drained. if you are concerned about it, then find a way to drain it. h2o2 can...

I think that 30 ppm is way too low, that is less than the magnesium and sulfur ppm. I also experience increased growth with the plants that are more fed with the potassium phosphate salt which is 28%P and 23% K. I want to ask you a question i think that i did not grasp it perfectly, when you say...

hi, your plant definitely is showing high N signs and possibly low PH as well, the clawing leaves are a very clear sign to high N. I am researching this topic and have done many trials on MJ and veggies like tomatoes cukes and peppers, and up until now, the research is showing that MJ...

place them on a table with a pond liner below, make a hole in it to drain in a res or bucket below the hole. you could use a couple of fittings to direct the water in a hose

yes your way to intake and exhaust can work, provided that the attic has the opening needed to the outside, and that you do it right. small and/or long ducts, curves, and obstructions, diminish airflow significantly. intake passively through holes at least double the exhaust size. With a bit...

yeah this looks right for a 400w hps. you will need to drill holes one for exhaust and another bigger for passive intake. if you cannot drill, remove the door get some tent fabric or something that you can cut. You absolutely need fresh air supply 24/7. plants need to breathe, also mold will...

yes it is enough, T5 is great for vegging, size of light depends on room size, it is 4'x? 50w/ft is a minimum for flowering, get an exhaust fan to suck from the ceiling of the room and blow outside

T5 flowers and no ventilation, good luck with that, it will take you 6 months + to reach the conclusion that I am telling you, i am done

for practice as well, hps. problem with t5 light is spread and not intense enough so you will need many lights offsetting the cost making it better and easier to get hps

If you want to flower big plants with couple of t5, you will end up with some pistils no real buds. if what you are after is flowering under t5, then yes, you can beef up the light get more and more and flower, but that is not very efficient. curious though, if yield doesn't matter, what does?

i let the air flow from the intake hole to veg chamber to flowering chamber then out. Once i had it the opposite way, and a bloody hot day came, one vegging plant collapsed and died, lost me a pheno, flowering plants were not affected, they are in dying mode and can tolerate much more, so lesson...

20" is still workable imo, you can get by with a nice little scrog, as for the strain, try Satori, from Mandala seeds, flower it early, it can grow huge fast, but does not stretch a lot in flowering, harvest at 63 days, you will get a sativa high, do it right, and you will thank me :)

you absolutely need exhaust and venting if you want any bud. the t5 will not do shit, hairs and pistils. you need hps and correct venting, the correct LED setup is another option, more pricey though, hps still best bang for buck

im sayin if you have no exhaust and no CO2 and you want to flower, you will end up with very little if any except if you quit your job and work as a timer every day to open the entire room and close it every 12 hours to allow air exchange, even then you will have to account for the mold and...

who said that vinegar loses potency? on the contrary, its smell will reek and stay there day after day, as you add more and more and ph keeps drifting up and you keep adding more crap to your res, good luck using that approach in growing. I have heard of people use steel wool to supply Fe, with...

you have too much light for the space, try make it at least a 4x4 could do 4x5 easy

that is interesting, 2000 is as fae as i went so far, jeez 2900 i guess i will have to veg close to 2000 to flower at 2900?

yeah if you dont want exhaust and dont want supplemental co2, good luck in getting anything worthy. start thinking hps with proper exhaust, you get more lumen per watt for less heat, best bang for your buck

i live where hydro is not common and i resort to diy, buy ferts in parts, calcium nitrate potassium nitreate potassium phosphate and magnesium sulfate + trace element mix, that would be good to start. phosphoric or sulfuric acid h2o2 and such are sold for various uses so you must be able to find...

the ability to automate is one of the main reasons why i went hydro. I think that you could get by with a very airy mixture of say 50/50 perlite/soil or maybe 30/30/40 perlite/growrock/soil and automate using a simple timer. I don't advocate using sophisticated soil sensors for personal indoor...