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i mix my own nutrients but i leave the ph and adjust it alone. i could try to mimic the GH or other ferts by adding acid to the stock solution, but i avoid that because i don't know what might happen if the stock becomes very acidic, that might ruin some chemicals in it, and I will have to get...

my bluelab pen was purchased 14 months ago still working good, it requires that you hydrate it in kcl for a day before first use and a calibration every couple months or less, but in general ph is delicate and a pita to get it right, i also use drops for confirmation and will be getting a second...

you must be overthinking this, the oasis cube can be soaked no problem as long as it is not floating and tipping over. you need an overflow to control the water height. I simply do that by piercing the tray vertically placing a small hose thats going straight down to the res below. I place the...

mold is indeed the issue number 1 in my climate, however i never have it when i power my dehumidifier. it is the correct timing that i need to estimate that is more tricky, and i consistently get mold in thickest colas if i dont use it at all. if you ar still getting mold with dehuidifier...

maybe they mean 600g outdoor?

you cannot try everything, even then your conclusions will be so inaccurate that they cannot be used for future reference. So you bump up the AC and shorten the light cycle and end up with dank nugs, and link this to that but you are not certain if there is a link except by doing a controlled...

apart from really loving AK47 or some other auto only strain, i really could never see the added benefit in auto. Even then, there are thousands of photo strains to choose from

books have facts, forums have opinions, but I have the holy grail lol

those lights are very dim, you can start your plant with them for a couple of weeks i guess, use them all

tbh i never used a non return valve in such low pressure, i only suggested it as a possible solution. actually i never will use it, reason being that i would do anything to avoid having anything that is not passive whenever i can, and in your situation i would figure a way to do that passivlely...

non return valve requires some pressure to open so it cannot open by the siphoning effect alone

thinner and longer is usually preferred because it is easier to cover the surface area with bubbling water than with a shallow wide one

Yesdog, I read the sources that you linked, and i have been researching this for a while, I still think that 30 ppm is way too low, i would not go below 3-1-3 ratio, the ratio you are suggesting is something like 8-1-8 or so depending on the final ppm.

i have a flood and drain cloner i put cubes in seed trays where i can beef up the light to 6 cfls and feed them to veg them for a while if i needed to buy some time. i use oasis floral foam, you can flood it indefinitely as long as it is draining perfectly

if you are using plastic, then you are lucky they did not explode under pressure yet. If you are using metallic ball valves and having this every time, then you were just unlucky

you can put them in flood and drain, set the floods far apart not to clog the cube. Light intensity is still soon to go high with it, i would start by putting it far away. bury the elongated stem to limit stretching

if it is to save electric, there are other methods, if it is the timing of the light for security/stealth, then try make a cloner box where you can at least allow some root growth and vegging, you could then do sog taking clones from clones. 12/12 from seed is not worth it imo

well Ekhart, I happen to have many res's of different sizes all in this system, different crops veggies and such, some are even exposed to light leaks and minor algae, and none has any airpumps in it, and i leave some pumps 12 hours off, and still i do not get pythium in any of my crops. If you...

thought you were still in veg, thats great

it looks nice, if you are going to flower that in there, i think that the plant will overgrow the height and grow into the light