Search results

The end point is to drop the voltage across the dimming leads, if you drop the voltage at 5V, this level will communicate to the driver to decrease its duty cycle to reduce the output current at 50%(or voltage, depending on the driver). In your case is working on CC mode so is the current that...

Flicker

For single phase brown is for Line and blue for Neutral(most of Europe and Uk), blue is used in Us and Canada for Line3 in three phase systems. For functional purpose in single phase doesn't matter, the dimmer will work anyway, but for safety you should connect them correctly following the...

Brown to L, blue to N. The extra cord is for remote control, you can turn on and off the output of driver with that and also have a 5V line.

Could you take a better pic to see the circuitry? I see that the potentiometer is connected as a voltage divider(using the 3 pins) so once connected to the driver it will behave like a 100k pot. Full turn and you will measure around 10v across the dim leads, half turn and you will measure around...

It will. It only controls the dimming feature on the meanwell driver, it can sink up to 200mA and the driver source just 100uA.

A dimmer(0-10v or 10v pwm) is actually a power supply, that is why you see all those components, the one from Rapid is not a 0-10V dimmer, it is just a 100k potentiometer.

50w each

Actually per Watt it is more than 3 times the light output.

200W of Clu048-1212 90CRI under the same conditions.

I measured them long time ago, 250W in a 2x2, at 12" the average PPFD is less than 300umol/m²/s.

Don't waste your money, driverless COBs are inefficient converting electrical power into light.

B or AB type with a 100k linear potentiometer much better and practical for dimming.

It's normal, the filtering capacitor(s) in the output still have a charge when you short the dimm wires, the 2 seconds is the time it takes for the load to discharge the capacitor(s).

HLG-80H-24(parallel) or 48(series)

Both are 3000K, H5 90CRI, M2 80CRI

Those lights are non intended to be used in indoors or for long periods of time. I have seen those lights driven with a CC driver and others with a built-in driver like this The proyector that uses a CC driver can be dimmed only with PWM dimmer and the result isn't granted. The built-in driver...

What a scam those buddies. At 2umol/Joule are they really any good?

Post some pics or give more info. Not all drivers have the resistive dimming function and potentiometers are not designed to handle much current.

Heatsinking is "not required" cause the test done is a pulsed Current, the width of this pulse is just a few microseconds so the heat generated in this period of time practically is none. LEDs are tested with a single pulse, continuous pulse or DC depending on the standard that manufacturer...