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You can mix 1:1:1 coco/peat : good quality compost : perlite for a great soil mix. Guano is quite expensive but works very well with cannabis and releases nutrients for around 2 years so you don't need to reapply it often. I would take extra care with that cardboard to keep it from burning...

Don't harvest premature plants. Even if the pistils change color the active ingredients need time to mature.

Looks like your pot might be too small for your plant. Working with a tried and tested soil recipe will save you a lot of guesswork.

Smoke one. As a newbie you want to be calm and wait for instructions on things your not sure of. Pyrethrin kills everything fast without leaving residues, and although it might sound nice at first it just means you sterilized your room and the next pests will have zero competition for resources...

Why the fuck did you use pyrethrin? Just remove the few mites you got by hand, you don't need any spray for that. You are way over reacting. These are not spider mites.

Looks like mites

They aren't that easy to find. It doesn't look like mold.

Looks more like slug residues

I would go for a known brand name. I use lumatek ballasts and Sylvania bulbs. Phillips and Osram lights are my second favorite bulbs.

Colloidal silver will disturb the female flowers from popping and will allow a few male one to grow with them. You can use that to create feminized seed by pollinating another plant and you can create S1 seeds by pollinating a different plant of the same cut. I would not pollinate a plant with...

It would depend on how big you want to grow them. A 250 or a 400W dual spectrum HPS would be the answer in most cases.

If you mix 20%+ compost you don't need a dry cycle. Just lift your pots before watering to see if they are lighter than usual. Runoff is also not necessary unless you'r using mineral fertilizers. (which in this case it would make much sense to just move to coco) The microfauna is hampered by...

That's what I got with 3 watering a day: https://www.rollitup.org/t/yekke-seeds-golden-diesel-breeding-log.852676/ First message. Never got dry.

You should never let the coco dry, it got enough air for the roots straight after watering. Aiming for dry-wet cycles isn't a good idea with any medium, but with coco it is more pronounced.

Get an EC meter and chalk then. You need to know the EC to know how strong you need to make the feed, and it would depend on your tap water reading and not only on your fertilizer specs. Calcium is usually locked by wrong pH rather than missing in the medium.

That is your answer. The lights are so close the plant doesn't stretch for the light. You need a healthy amount of stretch to have light reaching most of your leaves.

I cure at 60-65 RH but for long term storage you want the bud much dried to avoid mold and over-curing. 30-50 seems like the norm.

I cure in jars or plastic tubs and dry in a room or a grow tent (depends on the amount). When I want to change the humidity I expose more surface area - spread the weed over a sheet of cardboard. I really like my curing method and don't plan on changing it any time soon :-)

I don't find any notable difference between 62 and 65. I put my dehumidifier on 65 and it is not that exact so I can't even tell the difference... That's up for the fine tuning and really would depend on the RH of the room your burping (air exchanging) in more than the initial RH. It is...

Raise your lights at least 15cm up, you'r plants are heat stressed and over-compact. Once you flower them this structure will not yield too well as branches will be too close together. I aim for a 1-3cm internode length. Do not fertilize your plants and do not flush them.