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havent read all comments but always always ph after addibng everything to the water. also you should dilute the ph solution with a bit of water or it can bind up nutes depending on the strength of the solution. if you see the cloudy as soon as the solution is added that is nutes binding up. some...

ok found you...need to put an elevator in..dam stairs killed me....along for the ride

sure...soon as i can find my GPS ill be right over....lol. ill find it

dont need to worry bout the ppm pen. something for down the road. need to keep checking the pH in the rez a couple times a day till you catch on. keep it at 5.5. as they eat the ph will rise. meaning there is less food in the water. being a new guy jumping right to hydro isnt the best...

i just drank 5 bottles...didnt help my happiness...lol...jk

i wasnt saying yours was fake or crappy, just throwing info for others to read.

inverse square laws says 1 foot from a single point of light that it drops to 25% full lumens there...so a 1k at 1 foot away is now only a 500 watt light, but in hoods we do get about 24 inch for a 1k. a 600 is about 22 inch and 400 is about 18 inch. so a 600 is what i run and keep about 8 to 12...

H2o2, baking soda(sodium-bicarbonate) chlorine, chloamines all kill microbial fungi

........ph is off, shows form the twisty leaves

nope..as said in your other post....lack of food is all that can burn....

yay...finaly someone that can see there isnt a nute burn...lack of food burns. they cant intake more than they need so you cant burn by food. and for those that think the nutes salt up...they are a salt new in the bottle. all salt build up means is build up of foods. and yes that can burn as it...

Micro Maxx, 100% organic vegatative mix. will carry you up to 6 weeks with the need for food.

ya its not eating what food it has is why its going up. if its happy the ppm will drop as is eats. ive also seen alot of those pens are reading TDS and not the ppm they say right on them. ive got meters here that read all forms and is what ive seen here by comparing them

the plant cant uptake that. its for the microbes in the soil. not the plant, those microbes then turn it to food for the plant. we dont grow plants....we grow dirt to grow the plant. the plant is just an indicatoir of what the soil or medium is alcking or has an abundance of...........diff way...

few pics form the past couple days here. oldest went into flower on jan 1st so are about 37 day and the younger ones went in on feb 1st, so day 6 for those ones this is Tora Bora on day 6, showing signs already 2 days ago now

if its not burning right then it wasnt flushed right. its not the product its almnost always the user. most dont know why they even use the stuff. molasses isnt a food for the plant, its for the microbes in soil...funny how many times that needs to be repeated. see everyone next week for the...

dont think hes talking about outdoor.

well not sure about it being for pros only...lol. usualy used more for a quicker fix for a deff., not realy as a reg way to feed. dont want to be doing it once you get flowers, so after the initial 10 day or so once you go 12/12 you should stop it unless its realy needed. and when doing foliar...

dido..poor quality they use for soils and nutrient sources. and you only get 3 of the 17 elements for the grow in the nutes. they been sued over and over. people that work there are getting sick from the toxic shit reacting to them if they smoke so they get fired for smoking..all ya have to do...

DOH!! sorry, ya chelate was a typo and ya its lemon for down. cant be general woth pH. you need to be right. using his general way of thinking can kill a grow. my water versus east from me is 200x stronger out east so its no where near right. mine is 7.4 tap and east from here is over 9pH. so...