Search results

There is no wrong answer other than what you find works best for your grow style.

Yeah because they got all the testing done so that information could be used for commercial growing. Those simulators are used by lighting architects for large lighting system such as those to display a high rise tower in a major city or lighting events. Thousands of cobs are used so Bridgelux...

Yeah I got the CRI for other purposes than for what we need part but it does have some elements that influence the reds we are after. But on another point which I think is important, the higher CRI are visually better to look at for our eyes. 80 CRI seems a bit harsh, more blending of colors...

Yeah it is learning curve switching over but you will catch on. Think of it as a more precise tool that gives you more options to create different things. You can add in uv leds if you want, uva works just fine and are relatively cheap. Not a fan of the reptile bulbs because they can break. See...

Yeah the one(s) Bridgelux does the testing with and publishes the results

I'll stick with what the manufacturer says.

Bridgelux simulator says differently: Vero SE 29-C BXRC-30E10K0-C-xx-SE 2975ma 73.3v 218.0w 30000lm 428.0PPF 2.0umol/J For a 3000k 80 CRI at 1400ma it is: Vero SE 29-C BXRC-30E10K0-C-xx-SE 1400 68.3 95.6 16145 230.3 2.4

I hate those spd charts. They suck for old eyes. But they do provide enough information after you figure out which line is for what. I have some drivers with enough voltage range to run a 29 and 18 in series so I might pop on some 18s in 1750k (80 CRI) and 2700k (97 CRI) along side some 29s in...

Or 1 Vero 29 C. But it is around 3a and 220w so real cooling required. Still 2.0 umol/J for 3000k.

300w driver if it doesn't work well :) For 130 bucks, a case and driver might be worth it. So it is a low risk initial investment with a potential upgrade path. As for growing well, that depends on your skills.

I prefer 90 over 80 CRI but mix both. The 90 just makes the plants look better visually. That's in 3000k. I want to try 1750k but it is only available in 80 :( Committed to Vero SE lines for ease of connectors and manufacturer support. Very easy to swap or just add to current setups. Large...

Considerable improvement over the old days. How much of that would you attribute to experience?

Have to. Everything is tied down to the outer walls with the canopy forming a bowl shape mid to late flowering. The lights are in the middle, and contrary to the common practice of spreading them out, the 12 cobs are in a 3x4 matrix about 1' between each other. That was the best way to...

Chimera has some great strains. Not popular these days but really enjoyable for old folks that can't stand heavy smelling strains.

Or azosbacterin! Slime them! But pythium is everywhere and only takes hold on weakened plants. On pages 2,3 of this thread. My last run with a sativa netted 1300-1600g/m2 with all 4 chambers, 120 days flower which is what it normally takes to finish using 12/12.

Plus it would displace any O2, N2 down in the root zone potentially causing problems.

Or 24/0 with the right DLI :)

I agreed with you - it should be O2 and I added Nitrogen :) Clover and micros work. They are present in natural soil so adding them back into other mediums was logical to me. Look up azospirillum and azotobacter. They help keep everything in check and provide a good ph buffer by thriving in...

Circadian rhythm is a 24hr cycle. Plants follow it so you won't be able to shorten the flowering phase to get the '2' days in '1' day I think. The extra darkness is good. Remember the plants will still use stored energy in the dark. Yeah, they are all almost one ecosystem. It is a lot of work...

Anything stopping you from having a light source below the canopy blasting up? Kind of like a spotlight. Regarding maximizing your grow area you should think in space not area. The vertical space provides significantly more exposure to light than the horizontal area. Plant doesn't care if it is...